tacr2man

Something wrong there as there is no way a 88 can be a 7.5ton lgv as lgv only goes to 3500 and even that is more than an 88 gvw

I used one of these as its more heavy duty than the bog brush especially if you are working it hard towing etc . https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTO-GEARBOX-OIL-COOLER-for-MITSUBISHI-PAJERO-SHOGUN-2-8-TD-1993-1996-ONLY/382253234882?fits=Car+Make%3AMitsubishi&epid=9022089285&hash=item5900117ac2:g:gCkAAOSwcZ9bZF-6:rk:27:pf:0 For extra security just double jubilee clip (stainless type) worked for several years no probs .

Lovely work , lots of diesels being retrofitted , I have a 110 with BMW 3ltr M57 , but this might be the way for the future

Maybe you should have told them there never was a station wagon with 16 seats max was 12 if you had 16 seats in there no one would be able to get in .

The only things you would need to do to be legal would be adequate mudguarding , check position of lights with regard to distance from edge of vehicle , this would require that headlights are in wings .

You can gas weld Birmabright easier than normal aluminium , it even used to have a section in the old landrover manuals telling you how to go about it , and telling you of the requirement to anneal after panel beating to prevent cracking IIRC

How about an allison auto like I have in my RV First Second Third Fourth Fifth Sixth Reverse 3.49 : 1 1.86 : 1 1.41 : 1 1.00 : 1 0.75 : 1 0.65 : 1 -5.03 :

plastic items will usually have a date on them either direct or coded , plus other serial numbers on drivetrain, this should help give you a idea of what most of the vehicle is , whether its a clone , eg vin ground off chassis, and vin plate and number plates screwed on , or a gen vehicle that has had a s/h chassis put under it . If its the former then selling on would open you up to charges eg handling. If it does start to look dodgy then best answer is go to police . Due to time passed , they may not be able to identify original vehicle , or that it is subject of crime , but then that clears you and how you dispose. Even if subject of crime seeing you purchased for reasonable price , and time involved you would almost certainly retain ownership. In the end its down to you .

I have always used RedLine synthetic gear oil in the 230 and this would give you a safety margin with an overdrive unit JMHE

worn swivel bearings ?

An 88 with the full 1ton (Stage 1 V8) brake setup 2ls 3" front shoes ,rears were 11inch sls , is more than adequate for repeat stops when towing at max powered by a RV8 , as I did a 2a rebuild in late 70s with all new brake parts to that spec , in dry very powerful stopping , (hyd winch and spare tyre on front , gave plenty of front axle weight) in wet too much , had to be really gentle . IIRC disc conversion wasnt an option back then .

Its usually that side that gets bent if they have had a big jump , its unlikey to be bearings, or the swivel bearings as it would be rattling about to get enough play to notice neg camber HTSH

You will be lucky in this day of aversion to any liability that any one will stick their head above the parapet It never used to be an issue , i had 109s with spare spring leaves, jerrycans and steel boxes full of spares on hd racks in the day . The most important brace was the one to take the weight off the windscreen corners , and using a flat bar full length along the gutters to spread the load , other wise the door tops would scrape !! It does really affect the stability , even with HD 1 ton suspension . With a 110 and coils its worse , you dont want to be trying the moose test at 60mph .

I had one of the Bahama gold 2 door in 72 didn't have any tailgate problems , or with the 81 4 door model I got next . The 72 was arguably the best of the range rovers I have owned (7) , it was certainly the best mpg and reliability wise . P38 was the worst ! The first two sold for more than I paid for them the third was evens , after that the depreciation got worse and worse. Belting windscreens into cars when they used rubber screen surrounds was the norm , during assembly , especially when they were building 34 an hour on the line I still have the LHD headlamps in the black surrounds that I used to fit when going to europe! £135k seems fair and not a bad investment , certainly better than a lot of others

The op was asking for a solution , that is what I posted , having used on various vehicles for over 40 years the info regarding aircraft was just an interesting ( I thought ) aside from a similar set up that i came across when flying . Putting an electric pump in circuit pushing from near the tank as mentioned by subsequent poster is most efficacious , where you have a built in backup ie a mech pump left in situ , with an electric pump select-able has to be an improvement over having a single system Just as I have dual battery system so I can switch in an instant jump start standby . The old 6 'P' s. The flow and return system was used on RV8 several models also '

depending on type of bonnet and size of tyres dont bother with the side rubbers . There are also bracing strips depending on type of carrier . When new the kit comes with the instructions. Later vehicles not able to have carrier on bonnet .

The answer is leave the mech pump on and fit a facet lecky pump back by the tank Wire it to switch just prior to start switch on lecky pump this will overcome vaporizing in either mech pump or carb . When running switch of lecky pump . This gives you a standby pump if mech pump fails as well , same sytem is used on all piston engined aircraft , I have done this mod to several petrol engined vehicles . http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Red-illuminated-LED-Toggle-Switch-With-Missile-Style-Flick-Cover-Car-Dash-12V-/262254582103?hash=item3d0f975957:g:zBYAAOSwnDxUlv6g used this type switch to save inadvertently leaving on

How many people have you got to carry , if its just you or +1 then Suzuki is the answer , rather than Freelander. You will have low range available , and with decent tyres will go just about anywhere any thing else will. eg http://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/details.html?id=222941433&scopeId=C&isSearchRequest=true&damageUnrepaired=NO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&makeModelVariant1.makeId=23600&makeModelVariant1.modelId=17&pageNumber=1

If you stick with 1.2 trans box then use discovery size tyres to counteract the high transfer . eg 255/70 16 about 5% lower gearing

If you mean TD5 discovery wheels ans no way

They are very simple gearboxes to fix (compared with both auto and manual boxes) , there is plenty of info on the net , and parts are relatively easy to find , most things that go wrong can even be fixed without taking them out of the vehicle, from under n/s wheel arch . No reverse tho they have to come out. Pity they get so expensive when the trade "process" them.

On a 110 V8 with Santana the cross member does nothing with the gearbox , as the gearbox just uses brackets that bolt to the side chassis members . The cross member is a large box shape that goes across ahead of the gearbox mountings on chassis.

Is there any connection between the top mount and the bottom other than the airbag ? eg is it a bag over s/absorber ?

The standard fit salisbury with drum brakes is perfectly adequate even when heavy towing , and were used on the factory V8 , fitting discs is very little improvement in any aspect for whats involved . JMHE The exhaust will depend on the engine position and crossmember used.

Sorry misread the dates , should have realised as I bought a 130 300tdi DCHCPU when I was living over there I dont think they brought in the HCPU rear end , on the 110 or 130 they were all chassis cabs with local trays. I know that when the brumby finished and we started selling the Tata as a cheap ute , they came with no tray either .