muddychris300tdi Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 Hi all, I'm currently having some welding and bits done to my 130. One of the really bad sections that were badly corroded where the two cross members behind the body. the bit on the body has some Ali corrosion what's new. So on putting the new cross member back on the body what shall I coat them in to keep the Ali away from the steel. Thanks Chris. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 I use roofers flashing tape, cut it to the size of the contact area, stick it on either the body or the chassis, a thin sheet of rubber may be a better bet, but flashing tape is self adhesive so it won't fall off while you're trying to wrestle things about, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddychris300tdi Posted July 6, 2015 Author Share Posted July 6, 2015 Ahhh flash band, got loads of the stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris113 Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 I used thin rubber sheet but it can still trap water behind and is tricky to hold in place sometimes. Later I used 3mm closed cell neoprene. It comes in all manner of sizes but a few rolls on 25mm width self-adhesive seemed to work well for contact areas. Additionally it works well for sealing the floor pans, transmission tunnel and seatbox down. The advantage is that it can be removed easily at a later date. As Mikey said, flashband would work nicely also. There is a guy on the Defender2 forum that has used butyl pondliner to isolate everything from chequer plate on the wings to the back faces of door hinges and says it works well. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted July 6, 2015 Share Posted July 6, 2015 I used thin rubber sheet but it can still trap water behind and is tricky to hold in place sometimes. Later I used 3mm closed cell neoprene. It comes in all manner of sizes but a few rolls on 25mm width self-adhesive seemed to work well for contact areas. Additionally it works well for sealing the floor pans, transmission tunnel and seatbox down. The advantage is that it can be removed easily at a later date. As Mikey said, flashband would work nicely also. There is a guy on the Defender2 forum that has used butyl pondliner to isolate everything from chequer plate on the wings to the back faces of door hinges and says it works well. HTH Self adeshive closed cell foam would probably be a really good shout. You can get the stuff in strips too which i have used to seal/stop rattles from the center seatbox lid and battery compartment lid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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