Disco_Dunk

If you get REALLY stuck, and it's beyond hope, unscrew the light-cluster from the bumper (assuming it's a 300tdi) and look in the hole, and you'll find 2 bolts that are holding the captive-nut-plate-thing onto the bumper..... IF you can get those 2 off safely, then you can remove the bumper and have a proper go at the seized/rounded one (or just cut the whole lot off and replace the mounting bracket complete). Dunk

Also check that the pulley-wheel on the alternator isn't loose (so it's only spinning some of the time) - you'd have to slacken the belt to check. I found out the hard way the other week when the pulley got looser & looser until the belt jumped off and shredded itself. Dunk

I'd say yes - conditionally: Yes a bolted-in floor SHOULD pass the MOT, since it's not structural (a number of guys on here have done it with no problem, but I welded mine in!). An Ali floor is an interesting idea - I guess you'd need a thicker sheet than steel, and it'd probably be a lot more expensive. You'd also need to make sure you insulated any ali-to-steel joints or it'll rot away quicker than rust! Lets see what everyone else thinks....... Dunk

Hi Ted - mine' STILL on the 'to do' list The thing is, it's functioning perfectly (the brakes are better on this Disco, than on my other one which has no oil leak), so I'm living with an oily axle & track rod (well at least they won't go rusty!!!) for the time being. Looks like the web-links don't work any more, but from memory it was simply a case of drilling out the pop-rivets that hold the cover on, then sealing it up with gasket sealer and bolting it back down again (that only addresses the oil leak, not a functional problem, though). Sorry I can't help more - try giving Google a bashing..... or maybe someone who's done it will be along to enlighten us...... Dunk

I don't think they're interchangeable....... I'm sure I had a look at a 200tdi one and dismissed it (but the old grey cells ain't what they used to be, so don't take my word for it) I've got the same problem with my 300tdi - I'd definitely be interested to hear if it's the same visor on an LDV van or something similar..... Dunk

...... going back to your original question - it's no easier replacing the lock mechanism. Replacing the spring took literally about 2 minutes once the lock was off - it's getting the lock off thats the pain: the whole door (inc door top, glass, window actuator,m etc, etc, etc.) has to be stripped out to gain access to the lock. I've just fixed the lock on one of my Disco's, and I'm about to start re-assembly before doing the same job on my other one :-( If you do end up stripping the door, I'd recommend taking plenty of photos of the many linkages between the handles and lock mechanism Dunk

Cipx did a good article, detailing an R380 stripdown, with plenty of good-quality pictures (http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=13943) if you're feeling brave enough. I was planning to do a similar job (hence my comments on the original thread), but then copped out and bought a replacement box from Ashcrofts, purely becuase of times constrainst, of course!! Now, 2 months later (MY delay, not Ashcrofts!!) the transmission's back in 1 piece and waiting to be lifted into place...... I'm getting there (slowly)...... Dunk

Hi Russ - no worries...... I might have a crack at one of mine this weekend (in the garage! - damn weather). Depends how I get on with taking the gearbox out first...... errr that's not a pre-requisite for the door-springs, just another job I've got on the go (synchro? what synchro???)!!! Dunk

So far I've had to take the gearbox out of every LR I've owned (2x S3's, 200tdi D90, Disco 300tdi), and I'm about to take the box out of my latest Disco (synchro's gone ). I'd agree with the comments about needing proper kit (plenty of tools and an engine hoist), an extra pair of hands and a healthy dose of 'mechanical experience'. It's not an impossible job to do yourself, but it can be fiddly at times and downright infuriating at others (usually trying to re-fit the damn thing) - remember it's V.Heavy, and difficult to manouvre. If you've got the mentioned resources and time, then go for it - a large garage or covered area would be good in the current weather conditions!!! Alternatively, if you have the job done for you at a garage, see how much extra they'll charge you to fit a new clutch, clutch release bearing and clutch release arm at the same time - it could save you a lot of time and expense in the future, and the parts aren't too dear. Dunk

heh - not on my commercial it's not.... good old fashioned wind-up windows. No mod cons!!! Russ...... let me know how you get on! Cheers Dunk

I now have BOTH my Disco's with passenger doors that don't unlock with the zapper so it looks like I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and sort them out. I've replaced the lock-spring on a rear door, but are the side doors any easier or harder? Dunk

Amen, and ditto - anything post-300tdi is a non-starter (pun?) for me!

Hmmmm - no, they're lockheed pads from Paddocks..... I'd wondered about applying a tiny bit of copper-grease to the backs of the pads in case they're rubbing against the caliper pistons when they're not being applied, and maybe putting a dab on the pad-retaining pins as well to see if it helps. Would squeaky UJ's be affected by applying the brakes?..... at this rate I'm gonna be re-lubing/replacing everything just to get rid of this damned squeak!!! Was it an episode of MASH where they rigged a Wilys Jeep to sound like a tank and then they just drove it round in circles to make the enemy think they had artillery backup??...... something like that, anyway ;-) Dunk

Definitely a squeak - I've had that wheel up on a stand to see if the bearing was slack (it wasn't) and to have a visual check for anything obvious - no sign of trapped stones Could the wheel bearing be running a bit dry (so it might just need re-packing with grease)? Dunk

Hey all, my 300tdi Disco has developed an annoying squeak - seems to be coming from the nearside front wheel, but it doesn't squeak in time with the wheel's speed. If anything the squeak is more frequent and noticeable when turning a corner (either way), but it does it in a straight line too...... applying the tiniest amount pressure on the break pedal makes the squeak stop, until it's released again. Now, I think I've narrowed it down to a couple of suspects: either, the wheel-bearing or the brake pads (could they be rubbing in the calipers and squeaking?). Anyone come across this before? It's really starting to do my head in, and the Disco's starting to sound more like a Sherman tank!! (memo to self: must fix the leaking exhaust as well!!) Cheers Dunk