zf 4 spd trouble

[jasonf]

hi just fitted a zf to an isuzu lump and with the engine running there is no drive now not sure if the transfer bos is engaging or not but no life from the gear box ,now i have just filled with atf does it take a while to get running or do i need to connect the electrics on the box?

thank you jason

[rocksteady]

Hi, if the transfer box is engaged, could be you didn't line up the torque converter with the oil pump drive. Easily done.

[jasonf]

hi if thats the case would the engine and gearbox still go together? but it sounds like it could be the fact?

[rocksteady]

Yes, but you will damage the pump!

[jasonf]

damm would a loud clunk sound like a damaged pump when i bolted it together a loud clunk came when the box came to the bellhousing what you reckon?

[Bowie69]

Sounds a possibility....

Torque converter should be fitted to the box, and it has 3 engagement steps, and the lug faces need to be ~50mm from the face of the bell housing to ensure you don't smash the pump when you bolt it all together... How did you fit the engine to box?

[jasonf]

i lined the box up with the convertor and pushed the 2 together making sure the shaft went in the middle of the conv then nipped the bell bolts till they came together then about 10mm apart there was a loud clunk then they came together like butter?

[Les Brock]

When I put mine together I put the torque convertor on to the box on the floor and measured the clearance as per Ashcrofts site if ref to the gearbox serial number to check the clearance from the bell housing face to the torque convertor

then bolted it up to the engine (200 Tdi)

From Ashcrofts site..............

Check List for fitting ZF Autobox

Please note that a good 50% of our "warranty returns" are due to two basic installation errors.

1)debris and contamination in the oil cooler and oil cooler lines, even if you have flushed them out this is no guarantee they are clean, if the old box has suffered a bad failure you would be wise to replace these.

2)broken oil pump, by not fitting the torque converter correctly, read below.

Assembly

Check engine to bellhousing and Autobox to transfer case dowels are all fitted.

One of the most common causes of failure is the torque converter not being located correctly onto the pump before fitting causing the pump to be broken on start up. To avoid this we would suggest that you stand the autobox upright and lower the torque converter into the bellhousing and once home to do a dimensional check to confirm this using the list below showing the autobox code and the height you are looking for measured from the bellhousing face to the torque converter feet or flange that the flexplate is bolted to. Once the torque converter is inserted and checked make sure it does not fall forward when offering the autobox up to the engine.

With the autobox fitted to the engine, check that the converter will rotate freely and has a small amount (about 2mm) of end float. Bolt the converter to the flex plate using loctite or similar. Ensure the breather vents well away from the exhaust.

Oil Fill

Always use a good quality oil, preferably a Dextron III or similar. Put the transfer case in neutral and fill. Start the engine, the oil level will drop immediately, top back up straight away. Move the shifter lever up and down through the gears slowly whilst checking the oil level and topping up as required. Once the level has stabilised, put the transfer case in gear and the unit should now be picking up drive, this is indicated by the engine revs dropping when put in Drive.

Set up

If the vehicle is a Disco I or Range Rover Classic under no circumstances drive with the kickdown cable disconnected, as this will cause premature autobox failure.

Ensure that the shift assembly is set correctly and full travel of the shifter and engagement of all gears is positive, partial shift will cause premature autobox failure.

If the vehicle is a Disco I or Range Rover Classic you may want to adjust the kickdown cable if you want to fine tune the shift pattern, the looser the cable the softer and earlier the shifts, the tighter the cable, the harder and later the shifts.

Torque Converter Depth Table

The box code is the last 3 digits of the second number down on the name plate on the left hand side of the autobox.

Box Code.....................Depth in mm

061.................................. 22

064....................................22

065....................................27

332....................................51

593....................................51

699....................................51

727....................................27

728....................................83

740....................................51

741....................................51

742....................................51

744....................................18

748....................................18

747....................................27

757....................................27

759....................................27

763....................................83

764....................................27

765....................................27

766....................................96

767....................................27

768....................................83

769....................................83

Please call if you have any other queries.

[jasonf]

hi les

the box and engine where joined and i took them out together but split them on a bench the convertor stayed on the engine then i put the gearbox in the defender first then mated the engine back to it makeing sure the shaft of the box hit the centre of the converter , but it seems a bit more complex than this so reall i need to (whip!) off the box and check what damage ive done

[Bowie69]

It does unfortunately sound like you have mashed the pump

I did mine in the car, kept rotating *and* lifting the torque converter until it slotted fully home, I was happy once I had the engine bolted to it that there was about 2mm of air between the lugs on the TC and the flex plate, it works anyways, so that was all that mattered.

You can check the to see if the pump is working by taking off one of the auto box cooler pipes:

I have just fitted a reconditioned ZF autobox. I have filled the box with the correct amount of oil but have no drive at all, forward or reverse. Why?

The first thing to do is to remove the oil cooler pipe from the bottom of the gearbox (put a container under the open end to catch the oil) and start the engine. You should get a good flow of oil. If not the pump has been broken during installation and will need replacing/rebuilding. The torque convertor must be fitted to the gearbox, located correctly on the pump and locked into postion before the gearbox is offered to the engine, otherwise damage will occur to the pump, resulting in no oil flow and subsequent to other parts of the autobox.

[jasonf]

hi Les sorry to be a nuisence but can you just go into detail on this point

With the autobox fitted to the engine, check that the converter will rotate freely and has a small amount (about 2mm) of end float. Bolt the converter to the flex plate using loctite or similar.

1 end float ?

2 how do you bolt with gearbox in way?

thanks again

Jason

[Les Brock]

Jason,

Its no problem

1, With the engine bolted to the gearbox, the torque convertor should freely rotate, the end float is a 2mm gap for want of putting it another way, between the lugs(where the bolt goes in) on the torque convertor to the flexplate face(where the bolt goes through) basically so its not all jammed up solid !!

2, Not sure what your getting at ..............but........... To bolt the flexpate to the torque convertor you access the bolts through the starter apperture on th e 200Tdi there is a notch !

Pic from somewhere on here (credit to the original poster)click for full size

HTH

[jasonf]

thanks les

my engine is the isuzu 2.8 so i guess the startermotor is my way in ( i hope so)

thanks again j