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custom wiring for 200tdi


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Hi Guys,

Trying to put together a custom loom for my 200tdi 110 project. Trying to put something more like the td5/300tdi without the ecu nonsense in as it seems more sensible - fuse and relay wise. However with all my added extra lights etc., I am running out of space.

Can anyone tell me why it is necessary to have a brake check relay? Can this not just be a straight feed from the switch in the back of the brake servo?

Cheers,

James

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brake check relay was for a brake fail warning light check during start up [engine cranking phase]

it's not a check light for the rear brake lights on the back of the vehicle.

looking at the wiring diagram it is connected inline with the [pdwa] pressure differential warning actuator, which puts the brake fail light on if one of the 2 brake circuits fail. on later vehicles the pdwa unit was deleted & a fluid low level flaot switch was used instead.

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I'm doing exactly this with my 110. The vehicle is a 200Tdi CSW but it's getting a 2004 Td5 bulkhead, dash, and interior.

I've cheated and got hold of a 2006 ROW-spec wiring loom, ie. designed to mate the 300Tdi engine with the late Td5 dash. This enables it to be pretty much plug and play, save for a few small modifications I'm going to make to the 300Tdi engine loom I have in order for it to fit my 200Tdi. However the loom I ended up with is a base-spec one and I intend to fit some toys (heated screen, electric windows, CDL etc.), so I have also obtained some (4 now...:ph34r:) late Td5 harnesses with these functions included. My plan is to remove all the wiring for said functions from these and then splice it into my ROW-spec loom. This will effectively give me the high-spec ROW loom, which although it does exist is about £1,000 to buy!

It can be done to use a standard Td5 loom, you just ignore all the ECU stuff. The basic vehicle functions will all work, there may be a few things to sort out like immobilisers, temperature sensors and maybe some warning lights etc. but this shouldn't be any more complicated than running or removing a few wires. The easiest way would just be to fit a 300Tdi loom of course, then there aren't any ECUs etc to worry about!

With regard to the brake check relay, I believe it is a requirement for the brake light to light during cranking and then go out unless there is a problem. In other words a bulb test. This is what the relay is there for, it creates this condition.

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Thanks guys,

I have some sort of switch - loose which I believe screws into the brake servo, assume that this is therefore the brake light switch for rear lights.

Thanks for the heads up on the relay requirement, do I take it that this is therefore connected to this:

http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/store/results.php?s=NRC6515

Cheers,

James

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  • 9 months later...

OK so as I seem to be unable to source a PDWA connector for a reasonable sum (less than a 10er) I thought it would be best to migrate the brake warning light to a brake fluid level sender.

A couple of questions:

1) does anyone have the part number for this: the low level sender? I think it looks something like this (forgive the fleebay link) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-e38-e39-e65-Brake-Fluid-Reservoir-Cap-Warn-Switch-/350517436379?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item519c779fdb

2)How the hell do I wire it in? I have two wires at present. The first goes to the warning light - fine, the second comes from a relay in the fuse box (200tdi) wiring, Anyway I have two wires, Question is how do they connect up to the brake fluid level sender rather than a pdwa? Which one goes where?

3)I have TD5 warning lamps, I wanted to connect the brake fluid level to the ABS warning light - better to have handbrake separate I thought, Question is is this possible. It seems that the ABS has two loops - 3,6,10,9 or some such to bypass something (Wibbily Wobbly Speedo Thread - AMAzing btw) - question is, is it possible to connect the warning light for the pdwa - now brake fluid level sender - to the ABS light?

Thanks in advance,

James

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the low fluid flaot is part of the brake fluid reservior cap, I retrofitted one to my 110 & used this version click here 2 wires one to earth & other to the brake check black/grey trace wire, there should be a connector near brake servo for the PDWA that you can tap in to.

I used the td5 amber ABS light for my parkbrake -- left the low fluid/brake fail light to do that job only.

connected like this on plug 0230 joined 9 & 13 together

0230-10 is slate/red trace for gearbox oil temp sensor.

0230-3 is not used.

0230-6 & -7 are red/slate for abs.& joined -7 to park brake switch. to make ABS light my park brake on light.

hth.

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Thanks for the link, much appreciated Western. I have custom fitted the loom - so I have two wires coming down for the PDWA (this is where I realise it's gone horribly wrong in the loom). One if from the brake check relay (one that goes on during crank) and the other is the warning light. Do I put both of these onto the same pin and then run the other to earth?

Ah ABS is amber light - thought it was red. Damn, put the handbrake in already... Thanks for the pin layout required. So do I put 5 ad 7 together and then put the warning light from the sender to 7 as well?

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bit of a correction to my post above, found the right bit of paper now,

I've got 0230 - 7 & 10 together with park brake

9 & 14 for low fluid level

don't use 5 as it's a different use [gearbox oil temp]

6,7 & 10 are Slate/red for ABS

to use abs light for low fluid if you connect one wire from the brake master cap to any of the ABS wires it should light, you can check the operation of the chosen warning light before making a permanent connection, fit float cap & allow chamber to fill with brake fluid, with ign on so dash panel is powered, remove the cap & let the brake fluid drain, the float moves down & the contacts in cap make putting the light on, refitting the cap into the brake fluid will let the float chamber refill & as the contacts braek, light goes out.

hope it works :i-m_so_happy:

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