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Retroanaconda last won the day on March 26 2023

Retroanaconda had the most liked content!


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    ‏‏‎ Scotland

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  1. I’ve gone with 32F and 34R for c. 260k miles and 4 sets of tyres, works great and never had an issue with wear. If you’re towing or have a lot of weight in the back you can increase the rears slightly.
  2. If kept lubricated they should last indefinitely I’d have thought. Especially the one-piece ones. Over 250k miles on the pair in my 90, plus whatever the Disco they came off had done!
  3. Indeed. Mine averages 33mpg which I’m quite happy with. If I wanted frugal I wouldn’t drive a 2.5 tonne permanent 4x4 brick.
  4. No. Different design and position of mounts. The transmission is also mounted in a different position on the two variants. @Mo Murphy recently completed this conversion on the same spec of vehicle, and so will be able to advise on the types of mounts needed.
  5. You have the drop brackets so assuming the chassis is all correct as standard then the normal towbars for a pre-Td5 90 should fit okay.
  6. Show us a photo of the back end of your chassis to be sure, but it’s very likely that the towbar mounts will be the correct ones. Pre-Td5 all use the same towbar mounting points, albeit they are on a pair of small drop brackets on 90 chassis due to the different profiles of the rails.
  7. The proper way to do it is to swap the stub axles and hubs for the later 300Tdi type, and then the standard caliper brackets, calipers and discs will all just bolt on. You can reuse the old halfshafts, but they don’t have the stub axle seal land and so your wheel bearings will run in axle oil and not grease. Some say this is the better setup.
  8. Might be worth disconnecting the battery for five minutes and then reconnecting.
  9. Seats are highly subjective, so the only sensible advice is to put into the car the ones that you find most comfortable. I am one of the lucky ones that finds the standard Defender seats very comfortable. Done 700+ mile days no bother.
  10. The requirement for engines is “Alternative cubic capacities of the same basic engine and alternative original equipment engines are not considered to be a substantial change” I would consider a 200Tdi to fall quite comfortably within this definition.
  11. I can contribute. Testing central locking system, but like an idiot I forgot I had the wires for the rear door taped together. The circuit board did not like that
  12. Definitely oil and not diesel coming from the injectors or leak-off pipes?
  13. ABS vehicles use a different pin with an integrated bearing as above. Non-ABS should be same as 300Tdi. 200Tdi and earlier use the railko bush at the top. No idea whether it would be considered stronger or not though? Do you have large offset wheels or spacers fitted?
  14. Split conduit provides protection from rubbing etc. and makes things nice and neat but it will not provide any protection from heat. If you can’t route the wires away from hot stuff then the heat resistant fabric sleeping would be my choice, as used on factory LR engine looms.
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