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Retroanaconda

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Retroanaconda last won the day on June 18

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About Retroanaconda

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    Too Much Spare Time

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    http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/

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    Scotland

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  1. If you’re after a camp mattress....

    But it's a 110 Mo? Does look good, I'm sure I read somewhere that a narrow mattress fits in the back of a 110 hard top too.
  2. Tyre inflation - non-standard

    2,300kg does seem rather heavy for a 90, but I suppose the weighbridge never lies!
  3. propshaft

    Err... maybe! Apologies, memory like a sieve at the moment. I’ll send you a PM
  4. propshaft

    Glad it fitted. Was in use in my 110 before it was taken apart so should be a gooodun 👍
  5. Cheap Chinese stereo heads

    Diesels maintain power to the FIP stop solenoid during cranking too, otherwise it won’t start. Assuming 200Tdi as per above.
  6. insurance

    I struggled to renew mine this year as I wanted to go with an agreed value policy if possible. The sticking point was always when I got to the mileage question - nobody was interested once I told them I wanted cover for 36,000 miles a year and business use.
  7. Stub axle kit

    It came with the bush and seal installed already. Seems okay so far
  8. Cheap Chinese stereo heads

    Alas no good without 3G. Likewise DAB not available in most of Scotland so I’m stuck with FM. Biggest issue I have with radio reception is when I’m moving between transmitter areas (almost every time I drive it) it often doesn’t switch to the alternative frequency properly. I find myself listening to a lot of static.
  9. Defender Air Intake, Power & Fuel Efficiency

    I have good real-world data (adjusted for speedo error) for the last four years or so of driving: Average for normal driving (127,108 miles) is 30.8mpg. Average for towing (5,741 miles) is 26.3mpg. If it’s doing over 30 I’m happy - conditions such as head winds as mentioned above make a huge difference.
  10. New style TDci clutch pedal confusion...

    There is adjustment of the height but it’s via a different method. On later pedals the height is set purely by the adjustment of the locknuts on the master cylinder rod. Wind the pedal trunnion further out along the rod and it raises the pedal, wind it in towards the cylinder and it lowers it. Set it at the correct position based on pedal height off the floor and then nip up the locknuts. The lack of a height setting screw like previous models means that when at rest the cylinder rod is always held in the fully out position by the pedal spring. As such there is always some free play between the end of the rod and the cylinder piston itself and so there should not be any reason to introduce further free play by leaving a gap between the trunnion and the locknuts. Mine has about 1” of freeplay in total, some of that is slack between the pedal shaft and the trunnion and the rest between the pushrod and master cylinder itself. However check there is still 1/4” of freeplay at the pedal before pressure is felt, if there isn’t then introduce a small amount of extra slack by winding the locknuts in a bit.
  11. Two or Four post lift

    No reason to limit the height of the walls other than to make building it easier. 3.5m eaves would give me the space to position the lift across the building and make far more efficient use of the space. I agree that as proposed space would be tight once things like workbenches etc. are considered. Yeah planning isn’t a big concern, of course at that size one is also well into building control territory and so the implications of that need to be considered as to what is or isn’t an acceptable method of construction. I’m planning on a brick plinth maybe 200mm tall and then timber frame construction on top of that. Trussed roof but with a structural ridge beam to allow for plain rafters above the lift area. First steps will be to go see the planning/building control people and discuss what’s possible. If I manage to find a house with suitable space of course
  12. Two or Four post lift

    I’ve been watching this thread with interest as I will hopefully be able to build a new workshop in the near future and am exploring the possibility of putting in a ramp. I figure the clearance window for a 110 raised to working height is a box in the region of 4m long x 2m wide with a height of 4m. Played with the geometry to see how that would fit into a decent sized (6m x 10m ish) workshop. It’s clear from this that it would need to go in ‘lengthwise’ - that is with the vehicle front-rear axis aligned with the roof ridge. That way you’re only looking to clear the ~2m width of the vehicle at 4m height rather than the length of it, giving you a sensible ridge height of 5m rather than 7.5m. Lengthening the 6m building dimension to 8m would enable the first option to reduce the ridge height to 6m, but a 10m x 8m building is getting bloody massive! As I want a second ‘bay’ where I can work on vehicles on the ground, this presents a packaging challenge. However I think this might work, with a door in one side and one end. Obviously brings issues in that it would require more outside space but just a thought exercise at present. Another solution could be a building the same size but with two 6m x 5m pitched roof side-by-side. That gives you your two bays side by side and access from the same elevation. But does give you a valley in the roof to manage and is more complicated to build. I fear the financial implications will prevent me from being able to do it but it’s interesting to look at the options all the same. Apologies for thread diversion.
  13. defender 200tdi engine mounts

    To add to this thread, I fitted a set of four of the Glencoyne low-vibration mounts to mine during the re-chassis. The rubber is much softer as above. There is far less vibration at idle, even when cold, it’s quite impressive actually. On the old mounts (genuine LR) when it was cold it was quite rough for a few miles until warmed up, though fine once warm. This seems good from cold, though it being summer I suppose it’s not a real test until I’m starting it below zero. My only concern is longevity. Softer rubber and therefore lower vibration must come at a price so we’ll see how they last.
  14. Standard Propshaft

    3/8” UNF nyloc nuts. They’re pence from any Land Rover spares place, or decent hardware/fasteners store.
  15. Which metal for bulkhead repair

    I’ve done a few repairs on mine with 1.5mm plate cut to size. I would have no hesitation trying YRM’s stuff though, have bought many parts from them over the years and all have fitted well. I think I’d go for the full vent panels if you have any rot across the top front, that way it avoids the fiddly welding around the vent aperture. https://yrmit.co.uk/product/lhs-bulkhead-full-vent-repair-panels-land-rover-defender-series-2-3/
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