Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Retroanaconda last won the day on July 23

Retroanaconda had the most liked content!


1,085 Excellent


About Retroanaconda

Contact Methods

  • Website URL

Profile Information

  • Location
    ‏‏‎ Scotland

Recent Profile Visitors

6,624 profile views
  1. I’m in need of two replacement outer front wing panels as mine are dented and will cost a fair bit to put right before paint. I’m not keen on the plastic ones, and have come across an issue in that apparently 200Tdi and earlier types (i.e. with the air intake on the passenger side) are not available with the cutout for the side repeaters. I can cut these in easily enough but would rather not if I can avoid it. Does anybody have any recommendations for or experience with replacement panels that won’t break the bank but are decent quality?
  2. It’s left hand drive vehicles that need the bend in the rod, on a right hand drive that side of the rod is on the chassis bracket which is further forwards but on a left hand drive that side is on the axle bracket further aft and right close to the diff, so the bend is needed to clear it. That’s why on the later 2002-on rods the RHD version is a straight tube but the LHD still has the bend. It’s just that on earlier models they only had one common part, so on RHD the bend is superfluous.
  3. They have no rear locking diff so didn’t go for the off road pack, they just have chosen the off road tyres option separately like I did. It was also their choice to have a P400 which can’t take the smaller wheels without modifications to the brakes. Likewise you can specify the front skid plate which exposes the front recovery point if preferred, or just take the trim off before you go off roading. Why make the rear recovery points standard when most people won’t need them, and you can make some extra money charging those who do for them as an option?
  4. I looked up the Bronco tow rating, it seems to be 3,500lbs or around 1,500kgs. Other than that the specification list is great. You can have up to 35” tyres, front/rear diff locks, integrated terrain mapping, disconnect-able sway bar - it looks like a great toy. Interestingly I hadn’t realised it had independent front suspension.
  5. You’re right, the sidewalls are slightly shorter. I just measured my 110 and it has a sidewall of 155mm compared to 165mm on the old 90’s tyres. So there’s only 10mm in it - the 18”tyres are not a low profile by any stretch. On paper a 255/70/R18 is 10mm bigger in overall diameter compared to a 235/85/R16, in reality different brands of tyres will be slightly different as we all know. You can fit slightly bigger tyres if you want to, same as on the old one, though how far you can go without further modifications is more limited. In any case it is not really the depth of the sidewalls causing the issue with the factory Goodyear tyres as much as the complete lack of reinforcement. When I trashed mine it wasn’t pinched on the bead but simply cut on a rock, not helped by the wider track of the new car operating in rust almost exclusively made by old Land Rover sized vehicles. I’ve no doubt that the Bronco will be comfortable and probably even fairly practical. And to be fair I don’t know what it’s towing capacity is, I know the Jeeps have always been poor in the past but it may well be better in which case it would make it a more useable vehicle. I don’t think there’s any reason to worry about doing 1,200 miles in a new Defender any more than any other car?
  6. Duratracs have been available for months. They’re dealer-fit not factory but that’s no difference as far as the buyer is concerned. Same for the rear recovery points - they can be specified from the factory as per of some kind of fancy option pack for a silly price, or you can buy them for a £60 and have the dealer fit them for you before delivery for a few hundred quid. Or do it yourself and save the cash, which I will do when I get around to it.
  7. To answer that question you’ll have to ask TFL as they’re the ones who chose the car/spec, or rather accepted the car they were offered when their original one went back. You can spec on your car from the dealer the rear recovery points (front one is already fitted on all models) and ‘professional off road tyres’ which are Wrangler Duratrac, though my preference would be BFG’s.
  8. I’d not necessarily say so. If I wanted a vehicle purely in which to play off road and drive that kind of track then the Wrangler or Bronco are clearly the pick of the bunch, they’re pure recreational off road vehicles. Very capable, and very cool. If I wanted a good all rounder that could ferry me around for work, tow heavy trailers without breaking a sweat, run 1,200 miles to the south of England and back to visit family, carry five people in comfort and safety, and drive that kind of track if I needed to (with the proper tyres) then the Defender is the obvious choice. Except they clearly do, hence why they offer an 18” tyre option with as much sidewall as old Defender ever had. Just a shame the factory fit tyres are rubbish, no doubt driven by the drive for improved fuel efficiency and emissions, but that’s at least easy to change. The majority of old Defenders left the factory on road tyres and nobody batted an eyelid.
  9. Yes I’ll send him a PM to see if he can supply one.
  10. I think I’ve found it - the same connector is used on the door looms for the electric window connection. https://www.mobilecentre.co.uk/2-way-female-afu3635-defender-electric-window-connector-with-terminals-and-seals-connects-to-door-loom-wiring-harness
  11. Yes, but I’d rather not modify the loom if I can help it.
  12. Hi all, Can anyone identify the connector on a Td5 diff lock switch? I need to make up an adaptor loom to link a later loom to to my earlier switch. This is the plug I’m after: And this is the socket on the loom that it needs to mate with:
  13. It’s pretty tight under there on the LT77 at least. You might get perhaps a piece of 15mm angle in. I think I’ll leave it in place but will cut down a piece of the removed section of matting to slot inside it for maximum acoustic coverage!
  14. I reckon if I cut the top bit out and fold & secure the front face back over the top of the seat box upper plate then it would add back in some of the lost strength?
  15. Has anybody removed this raised section at the front of the seatbox? I am going to be fitting the weight off road matting and I’d rather not have to cut a hole in it for this section. Not sure if it serves any function?
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy