Retroanaconda

If they can sort out the pig-ugly front end and it proves to be as reliable and capable as a Defender then I would probably look to try one in five years or so. The trouble is I can’t really see it doing anything better than my 90 or 110 can already do, but I’d still like to try it out.

What a day indeed.

There are some pretty sharp switchbacks. It’s not impossible to get a well-driven 110 round in one go but by limiting the wheelbase to 100” they aim to ensure that shunting back and forth is minimised.

Rear crank seals are one of the parts now known to be poor quality from LR. I bought one and when compared to the Corteco one Turner Engineering supplied it is definitely not up to spec. Most genuine stuff is still good but sadly more and more is becoming poor over time.

I find I can slacken the nipple from the top with a 1/4” ratchet, reaching down over the wing. Then with a tube fitted i just open and close it by hand while someone does the pedal bit. Then nip it up again from the top. Theres not enough room to swing a 10mm spanner properly above the nipple between the starter and the footwell. A cut down one would be better. This is on a standard Defender 200Tdi though - the aftermarket conversion exhaust may make access even more difficult.

So in that case the Disxo axle casing will have wider radius arm brackets, so not a straight swap. If have the arms off the disco you can use those as well though and that will work, the chassis end is the same. Panhard rod should be the same. The disco axle will probably have different calipers (twin circuit) but you’re probably best replacing those anyway.

What age is your Defender?

They’re not usually tight so I’ve managed in the past to drill a hole in the top of the bolt and either use an easy-out type thing or knock in a suitably sized torx bit which can then be used to undo it.

Is it damaged or leaking? Inverness 4x4 are pretty good.

What age of vehicle is it?

The last three times I’ve changed mine I have used a Valeo kit with no issues.

Definitely paint before assembly if possible as you’ll get a better finish at the joints. The outer wing panel is held to the top panel by a row of bolts/spire-nuts and the same to the front. Bit of a faff to reach but doable. Work I had to do make these fit properly included adjusting the flange angle as above, plus elongating the mounting holes on the bulkhead mating face. And of course cutting the hole for the side repeater.

Mine’s very original, I’ve only changed the bits between the number plates

I’m usually able to find things in the parts info but this is eliding me. I’m looking for the reinforcement plate that sits to the left hand side of the rear (tail) door and serves to provide rigidity to the striker mounting area. It sits here where you can see its paint shadow and it is fixed by the rivets through from outside.

Pretty sure the sticky-out nose pre-dates Td5 by some way. This is original I believe, for example: