Retroanaconda

They'll happily sell both types still as in theory the newer 2005-on type are not compatible all the innards etc. from the older type (though most of it can be bodged to fit). If I went in and ordered new front doors for my 1992 I'd expect to get sold a pair of BDA710020 and BDA710030, which is the old welded-frame aluminium and steel type. You'd have to specifically ask for the newer ones, which are BDA710180 (RH) and BDA710190 (LH) in order to be supplied those.

Any pics? Post-2005 doors are all steel so shouldn't suffer from the aluminium corrosion that the older type get.

Rear would be fairly simple, you might get away with just swapping the drive members to the narrow type. At worst you'd need to convert to discs, which would be beneficial anyway. Front more complicated, because the CVs are different lengths you'd need to replace the hubs, stub axles and CVs.

The tyres will fit your wheels fine. I don't particularly like spacers, however as long as you do them up properly and periodically check the nuts they don't seem to cause any problems. Not sure about them fitting within the arches, however I suspect they will. Hopefully someone can confirm. I believe for alloys you will need ones with the hubcentric location ring on so the wheels is positioned correctly. Could just fit a set of Wolf steel wheels and do away with the lot?

Work transmission mounts can cause this, or at least they can exacerbate an existing issue. My money's on clutch, mine used to judder pulling away in first. Changed the clutch and no more juddering

I thought DOT was American? Would have thought that if there was a standard that wheels had to be approved against then it would be either an EC/EU or British Standard scheme.

1. Yes 2. No So long as he SORNs it right after buying it he'll be fine. Likewise as long as it's kept off the public highway no MOT will not be a problem either.

I may be wrong as I've never played with alloys but I don't think there are any factory ones with centre caps that will fit the earlier hubs and still allow the cap to be fitted. Boost alloys may fit the hubs okay (or the drive member bolts may foul on the back - I've seen conflicting evidence), but the hubcap will still protrude through the middle. Wheel spacers are one 'solution', converting to later hubs etc. is another - though the latter is quite involved and would require a disc brake conversion on the back and then new stub axles/hubs etc. as well as different CVs/shafts on the front. Aftermarket alloy wheels with no centre cap such as those tubular type ones which the challenge boys use to use could be another option.

Does it sound like this?

Mine does it at idle too. I suspect it's to do with the shape of the airbox or airflow patterns within it. Has never seemed to cause any issues so I've not worried about it

Welcome For the engine mounts, if you specify a V8 spec chassis then that will hopefully put things in the right place. Means you will need to use the later wide tunnel, and associated seatbox and floor plates though (plus propshafts) but at least things will be fairly 'standard'. Paint wise I used Buzzweld as above, however I'm only at the chassis build up stage so can't provide any info other than it has gone on well and seems good so far. Time will tell how it lasts once on the road etc. Would be interested to see pics of the strip down etc. as well as the rebuild as it goes forward

Either type of ATF will be fine Likewise brake fluid, DOT 3 or DOT 4 will both cause no problems.

Just to wrap this one up. Picked up an el-cheapo halfshaft this morning from the local parts place, fits no bother and hub cap goes on nicely - it was the twisted splines on mine preventing the depth of engagement necessary at the diff end from being achieved. So no need to cut anything down Other side fits nicely too, and everything seems to work as it should. I'll keep my eye out for a set of decent Salisbury shafts to have as spares anyway, won't do any harm. Thanks all for the help.

Hi Ted Welcome to the forum. I edited the name of your thread to the above to help people contribute to it.

Thanks all. I had a quick play the other night and it seems that the other shaft (which is not twisted at the diff end) might go in far enough to not cause a problem. I need to build the hub etc up on that end yet so don't know for sure, but if it all fits when I have done so then I'll drop £25 on a new shaft for the short side and that'll get me running for now. Regarding the caps coming out when driving, I've heard of this but never thought it was that prevalent. Perhaps as the caps wear over time fitting/refitting they loose their grip and the shaft can push them off? I've seen people make captive brackets that pick up on the drive member bolts. If I have a problem I'll deal with it then. Likewise the hub bearing spacing is unlikely to be a problem for me - if I was building an off-roader due to wear 37"s then perhaps it would be worth converting them.