Retroanaconda

15 miles away is pretty local surely? My local stockist for the gas I’ve got is over 100 miles away but given that the previous bottle lasted about eight years I’m not too worried about it! Mine is Adams Gas and the standard Argoshield equivalent. I can’t remember the size but it was about £50 or so to swap the bottle over when I did run out.

Ratchet strap from wind mirror arm to the chassis outrigger? Or a jack under the chassis outrigger and put some weight on the body?

Case in point - Alan Rickman being dropped off Nakatomi Plaza in Die Hard

To be fair Mo, it is the Defender forum

One will be UNF and the other metric fine. It’s not a thing you want to cut corners on, so you’re best bet would be to buy a set of new rear calipers to suit the new axle. You could probably use the metric bolts to fit your imperial calipers to the new axle, assuming that’s the way around you are swapping things, but I wouldn’t suggest it. I wouldn’t want to drive a vehicle with the wrong sized bolts holding the brake calipers on.

He was asking about Disco axles though Mo. I had a 200Tdi Disco axle on the back of my 90 for a while and it had imperial hex-head caliper bolts. I then swapped it for a 300Tdi Disco axle which has bi-hex head metric caliper bolts and is also practically identical to a 300Tdi 90 rear axle.

200Tdi ones are likely to be imperial à la early Range Rover, though very late ones could be metric. 300 will definitely be metric. Main difference is the bolts holding the calipers to the axle brackets.

The Puma ‘pump’ is not actually a pump, just a fuel level sender and pickup. Td5s have a pump, but it’s a two-stage one and not straightforward to adapt to other engines (apparently - I’ve never tried).

What benefits would an upgraded standard-width intercooler bring assuming no changes to fuelling? Lower combustion temperatures perhaps? Mine’s similarly ropey and I’m wondering if there’s any benefit compared to replacing with another bog standard one.

Or put a small removable brace between the extended table and the panel opposite on the left hand side of your video?

With the Landreizger relays and decent quality bulbs (not +whatever% ones that don’t last but just good quality standard H4s) in the standard lamp housings I’ve found the headlights more than up to the job. They're as good as the LED lights on the new 110 in terms of light projection, though the latter have a slightly crisper cutoff on dipped beam and the dipped pattern stays lit when on main beam which is useful. I have seen and been less than impressed with the 7” LED Chinese ebay specials that have almost certainly fraudulent e-markings. The proper and much more expensive branded

Those seem to be standard fit on new cars these days so must be reasonably good. Poor quality hose clamps are a pain in the backside so I may try some!

It is what the market wants though, for better or worse. And to be fair the main touch screen in my 110 works very well, it’s simple to use and laid out well. There are hundreds of settings menus that you can go into but nothing that you’d need or want to do while driving it - you set it up and then forget about it. It has configurable tiles on the front so you can choose what you have displayed on the home screen in the same way as a phone/tablet - the default being three tiles for navigation, phone and media. The controls for heating and suspension/terrain response etc. are still physic

There are pictures of mine in my workshop build thread. They’re wooden side-hung doors, ledge and braced design as above. Mortise and tenon joints for the frame with cladding on the outside, thin ply on the inside and insulation in between. I used a circular saw and a chisel to do the lap joint for the diagonal on the big door, and also to make the tenons. Set the depth and just run it across lots of times and then break it out and clean up with the chisel.

Bet it corners like the Mary Rose! Impressive though. Fuel consumption would be interesting