Retroanaconda

I think Shabs at Syncro is now doing alternative ratio gears for the LT95, might allow some flexibility?

Wind noise and MPG effects aside, it will definitely need support. Aluminium is very good at stress fracturing and my guess would be that the cantilevered weight combined with normal driving vibration/movement will mean the roof will start to crack around where the support ends in time. Lifting roof looks good, plenty of space!

The plan is to do the roof as well, yes. I’ve got all summer to worry about heating before it’s likely to actually be necessary again Verges and fascias all painted. If I get some nice evenings this week I’ll start screwing them onto the building.

Any thin and robust plastic sheeting would be my vote. Stokbord is cheap and would probably work well. I still never got round to doing anything to mine as per the linked thread

Been making the fascia and verge boards today. It looks like it might reach the magic 10 degrees by this afternoon so I’ve hung them up and will hopefully get the first coat of paint on them later on.

Or make it so that the central front/rear beam is fixed but the cross beam (onto which your hoist is fitted) is on rollers that sit on it and a second one mounted to the wall. Looks a great project though. Will you be building it yourself? Cavity blockwork is going to be expensive but it’ll be lovely to work in.

If it needs done then do it. Buy a cheap car as a runaround if necessary and then sell it afterwards, unlikely to cost you more than a few hundred quid at worst and will keep you mobile. I managed to make a profit on the Focus I used when my 90 was getting its chassis swap. If you’re changing bulkhead and doors etc. then you’ll not be able to do the “body off in one” method easily, so watch for mission creep!

Can’t argue with that - bet they didn’t have covid-19 to contend with though! Thanks chaps, useful to know that the principle works. I’m thinking a few hundred watts of tube heater at each end will keep the chill away and not cost a fortune to run. I can use a more powerful heater to top up if needed when I’m working in there, but to be honest I usually find that when I’m working I’m warm enough anyway once going. It’s the standing around jobs that need heat. My only concern is the high roof meaning that a lot of the heat may be wasted up there. I could insulate at the joist level if need be, but then I would need to find a way of closing off the open area when access was not required. These things will no doubt play themselves out once I am able to start properly using the building.

Yes - the ‘loft’ will be boarded with ply over the top of the truss bottom chords, this will give me a large amount of storage space accessible from the gap in the middle. Basically everything that’s light and not often used will go up there, with light and more regularly used things going on a high-level shelf down one side and finally only the heaviest things on the floor - engines/gearboxes/welder etc. Heating wise I am hoping that once fully insulated a couple of small electric tube heaters will be enough to keep it above the dew point all year around and therefore avoid condensation.

Lighter evenings means there’s time to do a little bit after work if I feel like it. Started putting insulation and internal wall sheathing in this evening, got the lower part of the back wall done.

Thanks guys, useful thoughts. I had forgotten that the tool makers do ones that work with their batteries. How is the light spread off that one @mickeyw? Can it light part of a room well enough, or is it only useful for close-up stuff like working under a vehicle/bonnet? I see they do a bigger light for the same battery system which is about £80.

Not guilty sir! The guy must have a very tolerant wife.

Any suggestions for decent portable battery-powered work lights? I could do with something mobile to save having to drag an extension lead around. This sort of thing perhaps? https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-led-rechargeable-work-light-40w-14-8v/206gy

What age of vehicle, engine type etc? I'd check the oil, water and other key fluids. Then assuming it's possible on your variant I'd pull the wire off the fuel pump and turn the engine over until the oil light goes out. Then reconnect, give it a minute and try and start it. Diesel might be a bit poor from age.

Or just fit the drive gear from a Td5 motor (sold separately) - this should match the wheelboxes and give you your proper sweep back.