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Retroanaconda last won the day on January 13

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About Retroanaconda

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  1. Fitting Wolf Rims to my 2001 Defender TD5

    I believe you’ll need a set of steel wheel nuts as the alloy ones are different. Steel wheels don’t stay immaculate for long sadly, the road salt gets them all eventually. But easy enough to run down and repaint.
  2. 2001 Defender heating controls jammed solid

    Good work. Let’s see a pic of the new motor then
  3. 300tdi backpressure at air filter

    I think g-mack has sold his 110 now.
  4. Headlight MOT fail same again or LEDs?

    I've found that a set of halogens with decent bulbs (no need for 120%, 150% etc. - just a good quality bulb) and fed by a relay setup is more than adequate for the significant miles I do on very dark and fast country roads, circa 15,000 out of the 40,000/year. Mine are Quadoptic units, IIRC the standard fit, with I think GE bulbs. The loom runs off the alternator. LEDs are very good for impressing the other school run mums but while I am sure they perform well I just don't see a benefit that justifies the much higher cost - while this has reduced in recent years you're still looking at £250 for a decent and legal set as above. I also find that at least 50% of the LED lights I see on other cars are blinding me, so either they're all poorly adjusted or they are just so bright that other road users are affected. I suppose one other benefit of LEDs that halogens cannot provide is water tightness - if you are dunking the front end regularly then this may be a factor. The Boomslang loom is good, check the crimps are good before fitting. I had one come undone when feeding the wires through but I re-crimped it easily enough. It would arguably be better to make up your own loom which could be better designed in terms of layout and circuit redundancy etc.
  5. 200Tdi Engine Mountings

    Firstly what you plan to do is not necessarily legal as the second hand chassis will potentially have its own ID/VIN. However technically speaking if you can weld then it wouldn’t be too difficult to achieve. The 200Tdi engine mounts would need cutting off and then a set of 300Tdi mounts welding on. Best way to sort the position of these would be to fit the gearbox crossmember from your old chassis to the ‘new’ one (you may have to notch it for the seatbox mount) and then sit the engine/transmission in place. In doing so you can offer up the engine mounts (fabricated or bought) and mark their required position on the chassis. Then remove the engine etc. and weld them on. That way you would end up with basically a standard 300Tdi spec chassis and everything should more or less swap over from your existing one.
  6. 1964 SIIA bulkhead replacement

    Welcome Jim. I too would be interested to see a rebuild thread. Members Vehicles forum is the place for it Whereabouts on the West coast are you?
  7. Indicator problem help please

    Welcome. Has this problem only started since fitting the LED lights?
  8. Plenty of mixed threads on a Land Rover. My 200Tdi engine definitely has UNF and metric threads, not sure about BSF but wouldn’t surprise me given it's traceable heritage back to the older engines. Rest of the vehicle is a mixture too. Even had some 2BA screws on the fuel filler though that might not have been original! Glad you got it sorted anyhow.
  9. 200Tdi Cooling System

    Did another 10 miles or so this morning with no issues, so hopefully all is okay. Thanks guys. Will do a full flush of the system anyway when the new hoses arrive and I swap them over. Annoyingly the coolant wasn’t that old as I changed it when I did the timing belt last year, but at least it’s cheap enough.
  10. LT85 Oil Pump problems

    Impressive fix, thanks for sharing.
  11. 200Tdi Cooling System

    My car had a whoopsie today, on the way into town I noticed the heater had gone cold. Pulled up in Tesco car park, popped the bonnet and was greeted with coolant everywhere except in the header tank! It’s distribution across the rear drivers side of the engine bay had me fretting about head gasket failure however I refilled it and restarted to find that the leak was in one of the heater hoses, a pinhole which was jetting out a nice stream of coolant in a pleasing arc over the top of the engine - which was then blown everywhere by the airflow through the rad/fan. Luckily the split was about an inch from the end of the hose so I cut a bit off and refitted it. Refilled and all seems well and I made the 20 mile drive home with no incident. Everything heated up as it should and there was no further loss of coolant or any abnormal pressurisation of the cooling system. I will order a full new set of hoses and replace them all. I think I lost about 7 litres and drove about 5 miles after the heater went cold. How robust is the 200Tdi when this sort of thing happens? Any warning signs for me to be looking out for over the next little while to spot if any damage has been caused? Obviously I will keep a very close eye on coolant levels and look out for any pressurisation of the cooling system.
  12. Defender Rear 1/4 or 1/2 Chassis Replacement

    Yeah that’s next week’s job!
  13. Defender Rear 1/4 or 1/2 Chassis Replacement

    Thanks, it looks good in the photos but I fear on reflection I do need to go for a full swap if I can. Some approximate pricing by way of comparison for chassis options, including my collection cost (diesel) or delivery as appropriate: Shielder - £1,800 Richards - £2,150 Marsland - £2,500 All based on a 90” chassis to suit 200Tdi (and earlier 4-cyl) fitment. The Marsland is through a reseller (via Britpart) as they’re no longer selling to the public. Unfortunately this likely puts it out of reach financially. The Shielder one is looking a good candidate if I can get some feedback on it, I don’t mind doing a bit of hole cleaning and tapping of threads if it saves me £300+ and a day out with the trailer. They also have a much shorter lead time. Will make a decision in the new year once I’ve been able to speak to them all and see if there are any deals to be had.
  14. Defender Rear 1/4 or 1/2 Chassis Replacement

    Thanks guys, I’m fairly set of swapping the chassis now if I can get one in the next few months. I’d like a Marslands for the reasons above but I may not have much of a choice with timescales etc. - Shielder are cheaper it seems (though unclear whether prices include VAT) but the ferry to go get it means it may be just as expensive as getting a new one from Richards.
  15. Chassis purchase

    How did you get on with your Shielder chassis?