NicTheOrange90
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Posts posted by NicTheOrange90
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still think you should check the metal cancel ring on the other side of the steering heel, maybe the 2 prongs have broken off.
They cancel around 75% of the time, and I notice it 20% if the time, and the other 5% ....
Ring is present and correct and engaged in blue plastic thing which was replaced with switch about 5 months ago.
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Now that I have sold the 90 off roader Id like to consider getting a winch for the 110.
Ideally similar to those fitted to the 110 from the factory (ie looks like a standard bumper with a winch lurking) and is going to be second hand (probably have a long wait)...
I tried searching for G4 and winch, but the forum does not let you search with anything less than three letters...
So what is the bumper and winch they fit to G4...? probably Warn and too expensive for my current circumstances but have to wish...
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After another embarrasing moment today, I finally did something about the lack of lights when indicating.
Halfrauds do 6mm LED's that can be mounte din a 6mm hole, so tapped off the indicator tell-tale lights..
They are much brighter so put an interrupt in the earth for the light return so I can turn them off at night..
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Ced,
It was your post on the D4x4 forum I saw the sparco unit on.
Where does it come from, and what sort of money?
I have tried searching the Sparco site but no luck..
I do like the EMS 1 & 2, and they seem reasonably cheap...
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This looks easier... anyone seen one before or know where I can get one priced ?I could plug the nanocom in, but want something less 'nickable' and if it looks like its part of the car (putting into a mud top console).
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Hmmmmmmmm shiney things
This is not the sort of link to send to someone with a weak will and a positive PayPal balance !
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Id like to fit an oil pressure gauge and a volt meter to my defender 2002.
Is there anything (apart from nanocom etc) that can be plummed into socket or does each gauge have to go to the engine.
I see turbo pressure gauges as well, that would be nice !
Where to get them and where to plumb them into though... Do they come as kits?
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I bought one of these a few years ago.
Had to get a cross member out from a galvanised chassis that had been sent to be treated (by a well known V8 engine repair company) with the cross member in. No amount of hammering would get it out, but with the chassis spread a little and a large hammer it came out.
Used it ever since and takes about 30 seconds to get gearbox cross member out (does not matter how corroded it is) and also is a doddle to line up again.
perhaps eblag might have one on the go
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green/yellow? the switched supply was just green on my 90.
It is definately Green/yellow but its also an MoD 90 so perhaps a little different.
I borrowed the switched live from the white/orange that is lurking near the igintion switch and then interrupted the green/yellow feed to hazard switch.
It works so may leave it that way, at least its not the relays or wiring !
Thanks for your help and guide, invaluable !
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Thanks for the update and the link.
All lights come on when they should do, and are correct brightness.
TEST 1 If you link 'permanent supply' (purple) to 'supply to flasher' (light geen), the indicator stalk switch should work the indicators as normal (flashing). The indicator switch is connecting *flash* to 'Left Indicator' or 'Right Indicator' - the wiring is duplicated at the stalk switch. If you want to make a seperate link wire you can replicate the stalk switch action at the loom plug as well.
RESULTS:
*EACH SIDE LIGHTS UP WHEN CONNECTING TO PURPLE,
*INDICATORS FUNCTION ON SWITCH WHEN CONNECTING TO PURPLE
TEST 2 You can repeat the two tests above, using 'Light switch supply' instead of 'permanent supply', the ignition switch will need to be on the second click.
RESULTS:
WITH IGINTION ON - FEED FROM PURPLE MAKES EACH SIDE COME ON, OR INDICATORS FROM SWITCH
WITH IGINTION ON -FEED FROM SWITCHED SUPPY ( GREEN/YELLOW) EACH SIDE DOES NOT COME ON, AND INDICATOR SWITCH MAKES SMEE NOISE FROM RELAY
IF A SUPPLY FROM IGNITION SWITCH WHITE/RED IS USED TO SUPPLY FLASHER, INDICATORS WORK FROM SWITCH, AND EACH SIDE TEST WORKS.
GREEN/YELLOW SWITCHED SUPPLY DOES DELIVER SWITCHED 12V
So I cannot see why the smee noise comes on when using the light switch supply present at hazard light (green/yellow) but all functions correctly when using switched supply from ignition...
AM going to test new ignition switch next...(have a new one in stock)
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In answer to questions so far:
The fault was present before I swappped the switch. The break point seems to be in relation to the connector block (earlier ones were rubber, later plastic) min has been joined onto existing wiring leaving rubber block inplace
12v vehicle
No LEDs
Relay seems to be standard for all military 90s (its at home at the mo) have two 90s and one loom from scrapped 110, all have same blue relay...
Side repeaters fitted, and work OK on Hazards
Swapped switch, relay, hazard switch problem same with each item.
If its a short - where could it be as hazard uses same wiring to indicators. Presume only difference is bit tween relay and hazard switch, but from thereon in it must be same?
Happy to get brand new relay (only about a tenner) but think it will be same Smeee noise.
Will check each of the 4 bulbs in case they are incorect, but if they were would the hazards work?
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is that as in smeeeegggheeeeeddd mode ?
sounds like a short somewhere
Very helpful indeed, we might have to go to red alert, if it were not that wed have to change the lightbulb..
On the basis that the hazards work oK, where might this 'short somewhere' be... I understand the wiring for indicators goes thru hazards and if you remove hazard switch indicator smee stops (by this I mean dead circuit)
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Prepping Ex Mod 90 for MOT and indicators dont go tick tock they go smeeeeeee
Hazards work OK, (swapped with other spare unit no change)
All indicators flash on hazard and flasher relay behind fuses seems to work OK for this..
Put in new indicator/horn/flasher switch
swapped relay for spare...
SMEEEE noise comes form flasher relay itself
indicators dont flash when relay is in SMEEEE mode...
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My 110 has 135k on the clock...
I put recon boxes on, and then new half shafts and flanges. Lift an axle (use stands chocks etc) rotate one wheel and see how far it goes before the other one on same axle starts turning the other way...
My rear was something like 60mm now down two 10mm) and front was 120mm and now down to almost nowt...
Measured with 1m steel ruler from tyre sidewall corner (edge of tread) to fixed point on vehicle (ie wheelarch) felt tip pen on tyre to get accurate reading.
Whole driving experience is much nicer, no 'slap' from back end when clutch goes out, and no rocking in low gears in traffic, AND traction control no longer comes in on drive off....
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probably the best thing you can do is buy a 220UKp Nanocom unit. It will give you diagnostics and you can disable the 10AS alarm unit or if you buy some fobs program them to it.
Cheers
Steve
Steve, any suggestions on how to reprogram fobs with Nanocom ? I have one but did not think it would reprogram fobs?
There is a bit in the LR Workshop manual about fob programming, but it seems to be new fobs and not old ones !
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Thanks for the quick response, I have redrawn the switch as per your notes, however on my vehicle brown is also a large spade.
ON THE SWITCH Terminals 1 and 5 both have big spades...that would put brown with a large female on a small male (oooo err Missus)
Should I forget the actual numbers and rotate the switch so that the indent is at a certain position?
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Just looking over NAD ex MOD 90 that im getting ready for MOT...
Ignition switch was disconnected when I got it...
I see western's diagram, but am being stupido... Switch has numbers on the back next to each terminal, and as its not in the vehicle I dont know which is supposed to be where...
I have drawn the switch with numbers... Anyone care to put the correct switch numbers to western's diagram? 1 and 5 are the only ones with large terminals, rest are thin...
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there are loads (sorry) on EBlag
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=230252246616 stops your floor from being kept wet by the spongy soundproofing...
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Cheers for the responses, before I go all out shelling dollar, is there anything else at all that could cause what I describe? Cheers
When I bought my springs a few years ago from scrapiron they asked what was on the vehcile (ie winch/winch bumper etc) so they could get correct springs and guarantee height, never had any problems (apart from explaing to wife why they were so expensive)
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After fitting recon R380, then Disco geared recon transfer box, the 'slack' was much more noticable and whole vehicle was sloppy at low speeds (slowing down in gear and then gentle accelerating would sometimes 'rock') also there was a rear end 'slap' when clutch was let out, and finally the traction control would often cut in on acceleration....
New half shafts and driving flanges for front and back (have still got front nearside to do) have cured all of the above, and it drives really well now... Cheap fix (well back one was)...
Also had vibration band on wife's Disco, only in 5th at 70, then at 75ish it was gone, (ahem on a private road for he benefit of the tape) only under load, and could not get it fast enough in 4th.. worn UJ was the cause....
Why not try the old propshaft removal/difflock trick that way your isolating half of the drivetrain...
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Would this be any good ?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...me=STRK:MESE:IT
I know its not carpet, but it does not go mouldy when wet, and unless your 110 is watertight you might want to consider getting the water proof carpets from Flotex, but not sure if it would go around the transmission tunnel etc..
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QT services http://www.qtservices.co.uk/region.asp?id=333 do a range of boss's for Defenders and they can fit the MOMO of your choice.
I sprayed mine (have two) black as they come plated in a goldy colour.
Also worth making/getting a steering wheel puller to get old one off.
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Ive just fitted out a 2007MY Defender 90 with a set of rubber mats, this one had six chrome lashing eyes bolted into rear tub...
Is this standard or an extra?
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I have the LR (Brooklands) workshop & parts manuals for Defender, but the parts manual only goes up to 2001 MY...
They dont have any more recent ones listed on their website http://www.brooklandsbooks.com/
Is there any on line versions (legal) that can be obtained? or are they so expensive that nobody uses them?
Exmoor Trim - Rear Load space forward facing seats
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Worth every penny for piece of mind..
Build the cost into your budget for whatever you get.
Having a family myself, Id consider a 110 as you soon need the space !
they say : Fully integrated 3 point inertia belt, so you wont need to get extra