NicTheOrange90
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Posts posted by NicTheOrange90
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I was thinking of getting one from a van to fit directly onto the glass, at present I have an extender mirror that fits over the standard one with velcro, sadly you cannot get the sun visors down (not a problem for me as I never use them)
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RE DC conversion, yes I think these will be too far back, they have a first position catch which is probably already too far back.
Re: height, I am 6'5" and could sit in the outer seats OK, centre seat has slightly reduced headroom.
RE centre belt, I did have a 3 point kit from Securon, and may still use that, the current plan is to use two large existing bolt holes per side, make a 'substantial bracket' that goes behind the seats (from one side to another) and either use existing securon 3point lap replacement, or use a new outer seatbelt and mount the reel on the bracket. This needs to be a) safe, b: safe and c: SAFE as well as being suitable to pass an SVA type test (these are my kids going in the back - overengineering is the name of the day).
I need to get plates made up where the LR brakets go into the 2nd row seatbox (ie outside) to re-enforce, and will probably bolt all three together and put a secure around the centre seat to body 'leg' I dont need the seats to tilt so this whould be more secure than the std LR product.
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I did think of getting a pair of front seats to match, but they are too tall, (std LR seat is 6" from top of foam to top of runners, Scenic is 13" as they have a cubby box under the seats) sadly the mechanism is not easy to change around, so we can put that on hold.
When I take the seats out of the 110 for finally fitting and painting of brackets etc, Ill get some photos and post them up.
Here is another set for sale in the north of the UK Ebay linky
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I finally got around to fitting the rear seats from a Renault Scenic.
I purchased a full set of three seats, and removed the standard low back seats, The Scenic seats are a good fit to the LR frames and bold on to U channels. The new seats tilt, fold, recline, and slide...
Im going to fit a three point seatbelt for the middle seat (not using Scenic seatbelts that normally attach to seats, going to keep extsting mountings for LR belts and have a centre bracket made up that secures centre belt..
The kids love the new seats and Ive had to mode the Special vehicles ex plod dog guard/exquipment box back into the load area by 6 inches.
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some sample pseudonyms;
Extrome4x4
ExtremePrices4x4
ExtremeWaits4x4
ExtremeReEngineering4x4
ExtremeWitsEnds4x4
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Quite agree with Chris,
Dont give the buyer any room to knock the price down, and stick a year MOT on it...
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This is a great place to get this type of trim and finisher by the meter http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/trim-13-c.asp
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Does anyone know where i can get some good 7 inch round headlamps with built in sidelights?
Thanks Jason
Have a look here http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/lighting/headlamps.php
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Gary @ TD5Alive does remaps by Nanocom,. but you will have to cross is palm with silver !
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if you don't do towing, sure, you are better off with a 1.222. i've done this conversion on mine. more relax crusing on the highway.
2 tonne trailer?! not going to work well.
Ditto above, when I had my TD5 from standard gearing I brought another 110 on a trailer back from Spain, pulling off from standstill was never a problem.
Had the Disco transfer box gearing and without a trailer results were fantastic.
I have Td5 Alive stage one (tune) and this helped, but have now fitted their intercooler and turbo boost (not tried it yet as rebuilding front axle so its not drivable, but a 3.5 tonne trailer needed much more revs and gentle clutch. I know you can start off ini low, but my transfer selector gearchange is a little rusty and Id probably end up at a standstill again while going from low to high...
As I only tow less than ten percent of the time its worth it.
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Many years ago I used to sell momo and Nardi steering wheels.
The hub or boss comes in two distinct styles, one is solid and the other collapsible (this type has rubber bellows/boot around it).
They were designed as fasr as possible to keep the steering wheel rim in a similar position to the original (obviousley diameter dependant), but it is possible that the rim may actually get closer to the driving position.
I have has a QT one fitted for years and found it to be fine with a smaller diameter wheel.
I have thought that I might look to see if there is a collapsible version [bub/boss] available and a padded centre wheel, as the prospect of it coming into my face in a shunt is not one I relish..
That being said QT boss and their own rubber rimmed wheel is a great fit and easy to clean, it is also a decent size to grip the rim (helps when you have gorilla hands).
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I made my puller from one of those plates that acts as a spacer for towing brackets.
its around 6-8mm thick !. trimmed edge to fit in.
Three holes needed, one on each side 7mm to take the 6mm bolts that screw into the hub/wheel. Centre one was tapped at 12mm and a large bolt put in.
Remove centre nut on steering column
Screw two bolts into wheel secured with nut either side of newly made plate, then tighten up the 12mm bolt onto centre of column.
A few turns and the seal breaks, then wheel comes of with ease.
cost a bit of srap steel and three bolts.
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When I put the V8 into my ex mil 90, I frequented the Rangie forums (this is a few years back) and the general consensus was to fir Land Rover coil and disty cap, arm etc.
Loads of posts said that they had pattern parts and spent loads on fault finding, as soon as proper branded set fitted, all OK !
Give your local parts dept a ring from main dealers, mine in Canterbury is great.
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When I had a v8 efi, the only problem I had was with the coil. Even though it was relatively new, it gave similar symptoms.
When I fitted a new decent one, it ran sweet and perfect.
Is that your V8 in the photo ?
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It might be a good idea to cut the spider out with a disc cutter, then knock out each cup individually.
Les.
I second this approach, if at first it does not budge, cut it out !
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Have ordered one and a few other bits from Britcar, not dealt with them before, but they take PayPal so saves me having to use cards etc.
As soon as it arrives and I get a mo, Ill have a lookey see at replacing the end in situ.
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STC 3295 now superseded by this kit
just remove the drag link to swap the rubber boot.
Ralph, thanks for this, I assume that the kit works on a drop arm with a missing bit on the flange that used to hold the ring that used to hold the rubber boot in place ?
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The ball joint gaiter on my 110 TD5 has come adrift, the drop arm should have had a lip all the way round to keep the circlip/ring in place but this has chipped away and there is nothing to keep the ring in place.
Does the DROP ARM BALL JOINT KIT, STC3295, Land Rover Defender, Discovery, get around this ?
I dont want to have to remove the whole drop arm and replace just to get this fixed....
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Their website does not have prices on http://www.kbxupgrades.co.uk/KBX-Defender-...p-Surrounds.htm what sort of beer token value are we looking at for one of these ?
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Why not go the whole hog and fit electric window kits and central locking.
I have a full set from this company... http://www.sempal.co.uk/acatalog/SPAL_ELEC...RSION_KITS.html
My 110 will hopefully get the treatment this summer as its SORN at the moment.
I plan to put a mudstuff thingy above the dash with the switches in and a set for the rear passenger doors. I also have a disco central locking motor to work on the rear door locking.
I have the central locking adaptor to unlock the doors all at once !
If I remember your 90 then this would be a 5 min job for you... (have you still got the 90 BTW ?)
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Nice truck. Must've been a tough call to sell ?
Yeah, but family comes first, and we needed the cash to get wife's car back on the road. I calm myself by saying "it was only a car..." (It doesn't work, but when I retire I could start again
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I sold it last year to a guy in Yorkshire and have not heard how he is getting on, I was hard up at the time and needed to get her indoors car sorted, but I put loads of mods and extras on.
Here is a picky..
The reg was different when I sold it, but I put US spec truck LEDs on the back and I think it was probably the only one like it in the UK....?
Id be interested to know what its up to...
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Wont a Discovery rear axle have a rubber doughnut coupling so the input will have three bolt holes, (this can be changed but is more work), where as the Defender should bolt straight in ?
Also if someone else hit your car, is this work not covered by insurance ?
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seat removal
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Why would you want to carry anyone in a vehicle without them wearing seatbelts ?