vougese39

if you are fitting the composite gaskets which heads are you fitting the original 4.0 heads with the small combustion chambers or the old type with large chambers fitting the comp to the old type heads will lower the comp ration and tin to the latter type will increase the comp ratio so gives you a few iother opyons as well

yes they are a odd ball thread i would be inclined to use a good hitensile steel bolt of 10mm with nyloc nut will pass mot no probs then the plate can be 3-4mm thick or thicker it is up to you as long as it spreads the stress though the arch in the event of an accident

is it a p38 or a classic? if it is a p38 just enter the eka code and restart the programing process but if you are trying to do it without a testbook it cannot be done. if it a classic what method of programing were you trying? if you try the unlocked ecu fine on a classic can't be done on p38 as it needs tobe configured to the becm and the engine ecu

do you have whining issues? tend to avoid additives as a rule as it is only masking a problem to get worse then it costs more if you do regular oil changes this will tell you of problems which can be fixed perhapse a little cheaper

porus block will show as rust on the bores and as mentioned the piston and the head and valves will be steam cleaned as well by the burning on the coolant. on the early 3.5/3.9 engines pre suffix"B" the third row of bolts tip the head whenever i do gaskets on these i ditch the third row of bolts using the original tin gaskets will not be a problem ensure the faces are clean was there any traces of coolant in the rocker covers? if not i would be inclined to rebuild standard the composite gaskets are good but you usualy get oil leaks so it's a bit tit for tat over tin or comp. use the comp valley gasket but smear hylomar around the water ports to ensure a good seal and for the hassel change the stat as well

try a new fuel pump as it sound like you have fuel starvation and the pump is overheating and packing up when it does not start do you have aspark? is it strong blue colour or a wimpy orange?

ensure you have removed the handbrake drum as this is heavy there are two bolts at the side near the front out put housing. alsois the input shaft of the transfere box ok if it is worn you will have a very short life before the mainshaft wears out and you loose drive

i would be inclined as you have changed the quite a few parts if you have not disconnected the ecu you will have some residual faults in the ecu either have the ecu read for faults or disconnect the ecu for 1/2 hour. while this is happening remove the stepper motor clean it all out then reconnect and allow to run up to temp on petrol this will allow the engine to settle and then reset the base idle this is done by this method:- ensure all electrical loads are off and the air con to connect a seperate tacho unit and then clamp the black pipe at the rear of the plenum which goes to the stepper motor the idle will fall to a level which should be 520rpm +/-20rpm to adjust turn the allen key screw on the top of the plenum once you have set to 520rpm then slowly remove the clamp the revs will rise then allow to settle which should be around 720rpm+/-20 rpm.

http://www.album2.com/photos.php?action=se...2db2b0e3e1329f7 try this to wet your appetites and will take more soon thanks for the welcome guys

hi to all let me introduce myself my name is stuart i currently run a 1994 soft dash range rover which has been modified but in a sutle way which is better than the day it left the factory the spec is :- 3.9 engine recamed polished ported heads,k&n filter,split fire platinum plugs.kenlowe heavy duty fans,tvr power 300bhp chipped ecu(rev limter removed and speed limiter as well),decatted 4branch manifolds with janspeed stainless sport exhaust.tinted windows,original stinless nudge bar modifed front bumper,original rear lamp gaurds,original fold up dog guard,18"boost alloys and tyres,deflex poly bush full kit,monroe gas magnum shocks,decarbon gas steering damper,p38 arrnot gen2 air suspension bags with modified mounting,goodridge stainless brake hoses,tarox 40 groove brake disc's ebc green stuff pads alround. upgrades:- new body sheel if anybody knows off one please mail me,4.6 engine spec sofar new 4.6 block xrayed and crack tested new rods and pistons ballanced to within 1/2 gram each,new heads tobe ported and polished,tvr griffith race inlet manifold which needs to be blended to the heads,86mm throttle body plenum p38spec,hi flow injector,polished engine parts as well cam spec unkown yet but working on it. I work at harvey taylor vehicle managment and am a exlandrover technician of 17 years experience my specialtys are v8 building and tunning,eas,all other aspects of these i know rearly well as well