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muddyplugger

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Posts posted by muddyplugger

  1. I took my defender (200tdi) to the exhaust place whose slogan is "if we can't get it, we'll make it!".

    Told them to tuck the rear section high up and loose the rear box. Lovely job for £35, can't notice its any louder and passed its MOT this week. :D

    exhaust.jpg

  2. I believe I need a replacement part here - my wipers don't park, have intermittent function or 2 speed (its very slow). Otherwise works fine! :P

    I had a look at what was there and I have read (some where) that I need to replace a bit on the wiper motor.

    Is it this bit? If so whats it called?? :unsure:

    wipermotor.jpg

    You advice is gratefully received, as ever!

  3. Matt, that is very, very useful (it is on my lists to-do!) Brilliant!

    May I also add that the law changed a (good) while ago and older sankey trailers may need a little adjustment regards to lighting and brakes.

    Trailers must have on the back two red sidelights, two red stop lamps, an illuminated number plate and two triangular red reflectors plus amber indicators designed to flash between 60 and 120 times per minute. If they are more than 1.3m wide, they must also have at least one red fog lamp. All trailers built after Sept 30th 1990 require front reflectors. They must have front reflectors and, if they are more than 1.6 metres wide, front position lights.

    Requirements:

    ( A ) If, in the case of direction indicators, it is not possible to meet the maximum height requirements, this dimension can be increased to 2300mm.

    ( B ) If, in the case of the rear position (tail) lamps and stop lamps, it is not possible to meet the maximum height requirements, this dimension can be increased to 2100mm.

    ( C ) On trailers manufactured after 1 October 1985, the maximum height of the red triangular reflectors can be increased to 1200mm if necessary.

    ( D ) Trailers manufactured after 1 October 1985 require numberplates, illuminated by an 'E' or 'e' marked lamp. If a clear window in the rear position lamp is approved, this can be used instead of a separate numberplate lamp but must be fitted to the manufacturer's instructions with regard to distance from the numberplate.

    ( E ) At least one rear fog light is mandatory on trailers over 1.3 m wide. Two lamps are preferred but, if only one is fitted, it must be to the offside or on the centre line of the trailer.

    ( F ) No maximum distance from the outer edge of the trailer is stated for a fog lamp(s) but there must be a minimum distance of 100mm from the stop lamp.

    ( G ) The distance of the direction indicator from the side of the trailer may not exceed the actual distance of the rear lamp by more than 50mm.

    ( H ) Trailers manufactured after 1 October 1985 which are more than 1600mm wide, (except boat trailers) require front position lamps (clear lens).

    Brake Requirements

    ( A ) Braked trailers manufactured pre Oct. 1982 may be fitted with a spring damped coupling as a replacement item.

    ( B ) Braked trailers manufactured after Oct. 1982 must be fitted with a coupling that incorporates a hydraulic damper.

    ( C ) Braked trailers manufactured after Oct. 1982 require brakes that comply with EC Directives. If brakes are required, all wheels must be braked. (if manufactured in or after 1968)

    ( D ) Any braked trailers manufactured after April 1989 must be fitted with a hydraulically damped coupling and auto reverse brakes to give braking efficiencies required by EEC Directive 71/320 (ECE13).

    ( E ) The size of the ball coupling on braked and unbraked trailers must be 50mm to ISO and BSI Standards. The use of old 2-inch unit is not recommended.

    ( F ) Unbraked trailers manufactured after 1 Jan 1997 must be fitted with a secondary coupling that will provide some residual steering in the event of an unplanned uncoupling. This device should also prevent the ball coupling hitting the ground in similar circumstances. It must be connected to the towing vehicle when the trailer is being towed.

    ( G ) Braked trailers must be fitted with a parking brake that operates on at least two road wheels on the same axle. At all times it must be capable of being maintained in operation by direct mechanical action without the use of hydraulic, electric or pneumatic systems – i.e. Operated by rod or cable action. The efficiency of the handbrake must also comply with EEC Directive 71/320/EEC; i.e. It must be capable of holding a stationary trailer on a gradient of at least 16% (1 in 6.25)

    ( H ) An emergency breakaway cable must be fitted to the parking brake linkage and the other end clipped or fixed round some fixture on the towing vehicle so that, in the event of the trailer becoming detached from the towing vehicle, the cable will apply the parking brake automatically, before snapping itself. It is not recommended to loop the cable round the towball. (But do so if there is no alternative attachment point.) It is a separate offence not to use the breakaway cable provided.

    ( I ) A secondary coupling as per ( F ) must be fitted to a braked trailer manufactured before 1982 that has a manual handbrake arrangement . (A secondary coupling can also be fitted to a braked trailer with hydraulic damping, manufactured after 1982. In such cases, great care should be taken to ensure that the secondary coupling is appropriate in terms of the weight of the trailer (esp. If it is over 1000kg.). Also the operation of the breakaway cable is likely to be prejudiced.)

    This from the DOT

    Phew! :blink:

  4. This is the only forum that I use (cos its the best!), and as an ammeteur to Landys, I welcome the Tech Archive, but I would also enjoy threads on basic servicing and routine maintainance (for example): How to change your front shocks, replacing a wheel bearing etc.

    There are some people on this forum with masses of experience and sometimes it is forgotton about the owners who are still running with L plates, so to speak!

    I feel quite inferior to the expertise on this forum, and I congratulate those who take the time to document their work and add it to the site, as it must take a lot of time. If, as Astro_Al suggests, there was a workshop section, then I may not feel too embarrased to contribute.

    I agree that adding new sections can dilute the forums, but personally I only ever visit 4 or 5 of the sections, and now I have looked at the others I note that threads on the Australian/Middle East/American forums are pertinent to all. Its now going to take me even more time to keep up with whats going on! tired.gif

  5. thought you may see that, but it did still respond to the temp changes OK just showed it at the wrong place on the guage (or the right place if they were expecting large increases in temp!!!!)

    time for a bit of electrians tape at the "Normal" I'd say! But I get your point! :P

    LandRoger, that sounds great! I'll take the old sender down as I'm bound to get it wrong again!

    Right where's that balaclava I use for a trip to Halfrauds? kenny.gif

  6. You're probably right James, but by your own admission on the Disco forum:

    my old mans 200 discos' guage never got above the 1/4 mark from the bottom, we ran another guage on it to get a true reading and it was at actual correct running temp, just the LR scale didn't illustrate it very well.

    This is why I was going for an aftermarket version. I admit, a gauge is a gauge? I assume its the quality of the resistor inside that does the job rather than if its painted with numbers?

    The original 'TD gauge' in the vehicle was incorrect for 200TDi engine, so if I am going to lash out for a new gauge I wanted one with a new sender that did a good job.

    Mind you if I can get one from a scrappy, that will change my mind :lol:

  7. not the answer you want but why not fit a def thermostat housing/header part with the def sensor in it and connect to def guage as will then all read as OEM.

    mmm....sometimes I miss the obvious, you're right! But arent they meant to be a little 'unresponsive' to minor fluctuations? I've heard the standard guage wont move till the temp is up in the 100's, then, too late?

    I could be guility of listening to too much pub talk! :rolleyes:

  8. IIRC the autotrader website allowed me to browse for the photo on my desktop and with their software it automatically resized it and I had the options to trim etc.

    I certainly didn't edit my pics proir to posting it up on ther site. Mind you I didnt have such a small one! (ooer!) :lol:

    However, the resolution wont be great at 113x85, best be taking another picture, better in the long run. Image IS Everything! (make sure its saved as a JPEG by the way - could be the reason???)

  9. This may be my usual paranonia and quite possibly a variance within 'normal', but I've noticed that my lights, (including dash instruments, stereo and headlights) subtley illuminate brigher for brief seconds and then return to their normal pokey dimness. This is apparent when travelling at higher speeds, ie above 50 :o but certainly not at tickover.

    It is an everso subtle but quick light change, and seems to follow no pattern, but it is definate. I have no knowledge of electrics (and some would say Landys!), but I would liken it to some voltage fluctuation.

    I hear the laughs echoing now ashamed0001.gif

    Is it normal on a clapped out 1989 Defender? Or will I be reaching into my everso deepening pockets again??

  10. Thanks for all that, I'm not after using an old gauge though, its a new sender and gauge, I'm guessing the thread/size is 5/8"??? Difficult to tell without taking it out and measuring it. So I was going for the lazy option and thought someone would know off hand.

    I made the mistake last time of ordering a new gauge and sender off the web without checking the size you see! The sender is the wrong size by a mile and I dont like the gauge.

    I want a Racetech or VDO, they seem to get a good write up.

  11. I have been at this ***kin' thing for a while now. .....and I'm getting grumpy!

    In short, defender with 200tdi disco engine. As everyone, temp gauge - pants and sender incorrect.

    I bought new gauge and sender (I never did fit the sender as its the wrong size and not able/bothered to engineer an adapter). I am now not happy with the gauge as a bit bling and can't see it in the sunlight! So I am wanting the definitive answer here............ I am going to fit a VDO or Racetech gauge, but which size sender fits in the 200tdi disco engine???

    I write this as this must be a very common conversion, and usually the smart ar** reply is "keep the original sender and gauge", this is all when and good, but when has anyone seen a disco instrument panel in a defender????? mad0223.gif

    I like to buy from the web as local parts suppliers quite pricey, so what have you got in yours? as they say!

    I'm happy now! happy0045.gif

  12. Hello from Up North!!sign0171.gif

    I'd like the odd day oot with forum members, but its a bit of a hike from here!! The only local club around these parts is NE4x4 which encompases all makes of vehicle.

    I can't see the problem with just Pay and Play. Organise a meet and just turn up.

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