Anglo-Frenchman

Cheers Ralph. It seems that I'm up sh*t creek then. Bob can get a fan for about £125 but it still seems a lot (at his own admission!). I'll trawl about of Eblag and see what turns up.

Yeah, tried swapping them over but still no joy and definately current on the supply. The dud one seems a bit gritty when you spin it so maybe bearings knack'd or something.

Well, Ok then so no pearls of wisdom on that count, but does anyone know if any of the Range Rover fans are compatable with the Defender aircon system as I've noticed pair of fans for a P38 on Ebeg which are a lot cheaper than Haddock's.

One of my air-con fans (RTC7424) has gone west. I see on Craddock's site that they're over £150 which seems ever such a lot of dosh for a little electric motor with a plastic fan on the end. Does anyone know of a cheaper supplier?

I put a ZF 4-speed auto into my V8 110 and never looked back - too busy looking forward for petrol stations! Seriously tho, absolutely fantastic and better handling of the extra power with no breakages.

Dogs are funny things. I have two springers (sisters) and one only chews wood (and bone) and the other loves plastic - particularly flower pots, oh yes and gardening gloves. Many is the time I've put down gloves for a brew only to find one missing and deposited in the undergrowth covered in saliva..mmmmmmmm nice!

Thanks Ralph. Well I ditched the clip and its been fine so its clearly surplus to requirements. Having changed the oil its interesting to see that the oil pressure is now a little higher than before so perhaps the old oil was a bit on the thin side.

Yes, I'm the same - done many but never come across the clip arrangement, that's why it threw me.

As ever Ralph, thanks a bunch.

My word, that was quick. The strange thing is that the clip was still fixed to the one I took off the vehicle and none was fixed to new one Bob sent so I'm not sure how there were no leaks. The new filter seems to be working OK though. As regards the heater, I don't know how it is turned on as I can't see any additional switches for it - perhaps it comes on with the ignition automatically. There is second device clamped around the pipe that comes off the top of the filtre housing with wires to it - presumably the same kind of thing. I was surprised to find that when I drained the oil from the sump and went to refil it, it took far less than expected. The Haynes book says 6 litres plus the filter but 6 it only took about 5 so there must have been quite a lot that didn't drain out. With regards the LT77 g/box, the Haynes book syas use ATF. I have a can of Land Rover MTF 94 which I'm sure I used to use in my ZF auto box - would this be OK in the LT77?

I've just done the first fuel/oil filter change on the 110 CSW since I aqcuired it . The fuel filter appears to have some sort of added device under the normal screw-in housing with wires connected to it. I assume as the vehicle was expedition prepared that htis is some sort of heating device to stop the fuel freezing(?) The fuel filter that came off was a Crossland 5006 and had no raised metal rim around the inner screw socket and a stange plastic clip-on device that held the rubber sealing washer. My new filter, a Cooper have a riased ring around the inner screw socket. Not being 100% sure, I transfered the plastic clip thingy onto the new filter whereupon it p*ssed fuel out when started up. I then removed the plastic thingy and it seemed to seal OK. Any ideas what the plastic thingy is and also what the device with electrical connections is between the fuel filter housing and the filter itself?

Life is treating me very well, but any thoughts I had about the quiet life are out the window. I work harder here than ever before and whilst business is doing well, I would like a bit more time to relax! I've just got back from a 500km round trip to Arcachon in the 110 - left home at 0600 this morning and its now nearly 2200 - where's the wine bottle.....

Thanks very much Ralph

I've just renewed the air cleaner element (200Tdi) and found a little oil in the top of the cleaner element and the flexible hose that connects to the turbo also has some oil inside. Is this normal or the result of something more sinister?

I had been noticing over recent weeks a horrible red rust stain down the back of both front mud flaps. Further investigation revealed that my tubualr side steps were both full of water - about a couple of litres each which was sloshing around inside and everytime I came to a halt it was splashing out around the bungs in each end and over the back of the flaps. Very odd indeed! Where did it all come from with rubber bungs in all open ends. I've now drilled a hole in the underside of each and filled with good 'ol Waxoyl.

I'm minded to ask the question - 'Who would bother mocking up the original picture?' - Whats the motive?

Well thanks for al the comments - very intersting indeed. My new Allmakes front prop shaft has arrived so I'll be fitting that in a couple of days. Just a quick word to 'big up' (God! I hate that expression) Bob Mayou at LRP in Camborne who manages to get parts to me in France the next day - Top supplier.

Just out of interest, what the general view of buying spares. Is it worth paying the extra for the genuine article or are the non-gen parts considered value for money? In a world of you-get-wot-you-pay for do the genuine part last any longer? Just a thought as my non-gen front prop wings its way to me...............

I had a very similar problem some years ago with a Series III with a N/A diesel which I had fitted from a Sherpa. It turned out that there was a slight air leak on the top of the CAV fuel distributor/pump which allowed air to bleed back into the system after being left for a few hours. I'm sure you have a similar problem.

Thanks very much for the advice. I only intend to drive it far enough to establish where the vibration is coming from.

Thanks Ralph. What's the most reliable way (if any) to check for play in the UJs while in situ?

If the vibration does turn out to be the front prop - whats the best solution. Is it a case of renewing both the UJs?

Having recently had an issue with a vibrating front prop-shaft UJ due to poor (non-existent) lubrication after the vehicle was left un-driven for a number of years, I find that ocasionally I get a slight vibration at around 80km/h which can be driven through and vanishes altogether. In an attempt to identify if this is the culprit, I thought about removing the front prop-shaft to see if this vibration was still present but wondered if this might damage the transmission in some way what with the permanent 4WD.

Thanks Steve. This looks excellent - I'll give them a call to verfy costs and shipping.

Very smart indeed. Which one did you buy and what was the cost of shipping?