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krissvdh

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About krissvdh

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    http://www.hi5-fireworks.com/
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    Oakham, Rutland, UK
  1. First release! http://www.mod-sales.com/direct/vehicle/,25,/77257/Land_Rover.htm
  2. So, The bracket. Untitled by Kris Strang van den Heuvel, on Flickr The extra nuts Untitled by Kris Strang van den Heuvel, on Flickr The guard with the slots to slot over loosened 10mm bolts. Untitled by Kris Strang van den Heuvel, on Flickr Thanks
  3. I'll start this off by saying the folk at Mobile Storage Systems have been nothing but helpful during my extended purchase of their window guards. The final piece of the jigsaw arrived today and I'm sat in the back of the Landy scratching my head. I'm sure I'm making this difficult somehow but I can't seem to be able to follow the instructions given.. I'm trying to fit the rear 1/4 guards. The instructions state "loosen bolts that secure roof to the back panel 10mm spanner". This I understand. This, I don't... I have a large bracket, presumably for the sole use of the seat belt anchor which is coupled to the roof via three studs/captives/nuts which rather conflict with the fitting of the guards. Do I need to remove this bracket and is it safe to do so? I won't be using the seat belts again. Pictures to follow. Any insight appreciated. I'd speak to MSS but they are closed and I desperately wanted these in and done tonight. Kris
  4. Thanks for your input. It is just to protect the main cable from the battery through to the opposite seat box which is where the fuse box is located. The fuse box won't feed anything mission critical and will keep any and all accessories separate from the vehicle wiring loom. It's only a short run but I'd rather like to follow a belt and braces approach. Kris
  5. I'm hoping someone with a more reasoned mind will be able to assist me. I'm just gathering up the last few bits to install a pair of aux fuse boxes (1 X 6 Feed & 1 X 12 Feed) and i'm undecided on the benefits and drawbacks of large 100A fuses over a similar rated circuit breaker. Obviously the need to carry spare fuses is not a massive drawback but space is limited when it comes to replacing them. I'm specifically looking at Blue Sea marine circuit breakers which are said to be pretty durable with regards to water ingress and vibration. Now the reason i'm undecided is the fact that I have not seen many folk use them when doing a similar job. Is there a reason behind this that I am missing? This load of wiring is going to be a proper job and i'd like to be happy with it and get it right first time. Regards Kris
  6. I insured my 110 with the NFU. They were bend over backwards helpful. I gave them a list of all current modifications, purchase price and expected modifications. They were pretty cheap including the fact that I too have no no claims bonus for similar reasons. The cover is comprehensive. They also have an agreed price for the 110 and photos of it and the relevant valued mods so there is no quibble. I couldn't recommend them enough. Kris
  7. Just my 2p, we used to have a problem on Mondeo whereby the rear pads would rattle and sound much like you have described. The FoMoCo solution for this was a particularly thick and water resistant silicone grease. I use it on all my pads now and assembly of materials likely to generate corrosion and it works a charm. N.B. When I say on pads I mean on the points where it meets the pad carrier not on the friction surface! :-) Kris
  8. Stumbled across this. Links most appreciated CwazyWabbit. Kris
  9. There is a warranty route for damaged engines although it's not clear if the repair includes a whole new engine. Kris
  10. Hi folks. I had a Service action pass over my desk this morning regarding the recall of Transit 2.2 with engines built between Sept 2011 and 31st December 2012. This is regarding oil pump failure resulting in reduced oil pressure and consequential engine damage if the oil pressure light illuminates. The Ford number for this is 4S616. There is a revised oil pump required to remedy this fault. If it's of interest i'll try and scan a copy and put it up here. 15 months is a fair few engines i'd say. Best regards. Kris
  11. Ralph that is outstanding, thanks. Also thanks for the link to that great resource. As soon as I'm earning again I'll be setting up a standing order by way of thanks to LR4X4 members. Kris
  12. Super, it's the inner one on the left near the reflector. Do you know how the nut is attached to the L section? Is it possible to release it so the whole thing can be punched through and a nut and bolt used to replace it? Many thanks for the reply. Kris.
  13. I think I've made a hopefully not insurmountable mistake. On my '09 110 CSW I have removed the rear ladder which was peeling and corroded. In the process I have snapped one of the outer crossmember bolts which holds the base of the ladder in the near side. One of the pair came out with no problem although looking at the head of the bolt and the state of the torx I'd say it's been out before. The other however made it out a couple of turns before shearing off. Now I'd get underneath and check it out myself but I'm stuffed waiting for surgery with a slipped disc and wasn't anticipating this 'malfunction' (supposed to be an easy job to get me out of the house). My question is what holds the bolt? Is it a simple nut, a captive or a threaded bracket? I think my old one was a nut and bolt. It's all inside the bodywork rather than an external bracket. If it's a captive or threaded I will leave it and drill it out when I'm up to health. Or if it's an easy fix I'll get one of the lads at work to do it. When I do get it out is it best to go for a genuine bolt with a dose of copper slip or is there another recommended fastener? I have not yet seen many Puma Defender threads where things have gone rotten. I think I'll get the ladder and front light guards powder coated while they are off. Thanks, Kris
  14. Good posts Robert, well referenced posts. The way the headlight wash and self levelling reads (to me) is that the function of both is only checked if they are present. It does not determine if they should or should not be fitted. This is obviously open to the testers interpretation. LR have set precedent by fitting LED headlights to the limited edition spec vehicle. Seeing as it's unlikely to have obtained separate type approval, C&U regs etc one could argue that vehicles of this type could be retro fitted with LED lamps. As far as I'm aware headlamp levelling (operated from the roller switch on the dash) is fitted to 07> Defenders depending on trim level. Allowing for the unlikely possibility that the limited edition vehicles have self levelling headlights or suspension any department or operator failing an 07> vehicle for having LED headlamps would be opening Land Rover up for a hell of a lawsuit as one could argue that they are 'a factory option'. Interesting topic, I was looking at some J.W. Speaker LED headlights at last years LRO show. Kris
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