[Steering box leak]

a 4 bolt one edit (carp thats the manual box lol)

1. Adjuster lock nut.

2. Top cover retaining bolts.

3. Topcover.

4. Top cover joint washer.

5. Sector shaft.

6. Worm shaft retaining plate and bolts.

7. Worm shaft shim(s).

8. Worm shaft joint washer.

9. Worm shaft.

10. Worm shaft taper bearing.

11. Worm shaft oil seal.

12. Worm shaft bearing track shim.

13. Sector shaft oil seal.

14. Sector shaft needle roller bearings.

15. Worm shaft grommet.

16. Sector shaft adjuster.

17. Sector shaft threaded cup.

18. Oil filler plug and washer.

[Clutch Change]

Glad it has been of intrest, I thinkit is nice to read a noob doing a job as it shows some issues that come up due to lack of experience that may not come across in some of the very helpful write ups by the big boys.

It also shows that even without a decent workshop and on your tod you can do these big jobs

all gears work and taking a tip off old Les I scored the transferbox leaver so all the linkages went back correctly and a quick run of the engine showed it all working well.

I did forget to do the t-box front flange seal before I filled with ep90 and to be honest I need the car on the road asap so that job can wait a bit longer

[Play in transfer box]

14 degrees isn't that much play for a LR drivetrain component. Unless it's causing a problem I wouldn't worry too much.

lol typo alert, I don't know where I got 14 degrees from it id more like 30 which causes a nice clonk when you feed in the power,which I put down to the input gear/splines.

After fitting a new gearbox , diffs and perfect condition second hand shafts and cvs I want my transmission to be as tight as possible.

Can the center diff wear to cause this issue? It doesn't seem to make any odds if you are in high or low

[Play in transfer box]

After systematically replacing my entire drive train I think I may have issues with my transfer box now

I had a worn output shaft on my LT77 and the rear input gear was worn, I replaced (see my other thread for the fun that was) but although I have removed all that slack when I put my t-box back in and was testing the new gearbox I noticed that with difflock on I can turn one output flange 14 degrees before the other one starts to move.

So it seems that part of my play was the transfer box, I am not to upset as I had poor syncros in the lt77 so wanted it replaced anyway.

I would have thought the the lt230 having all the gears bathed in oil would stop anything wearing that badly (and this is not that old a box as it was reconned a little while before I got it). What in the box could cause that level of play?

Cheers as ever

Steve

[Clutch Change]

Following my "Ahh I am going to break something thread" I have had some progress so though I would update this thread as I know via PMs that there are some people interested in my little mission (perhaps the amusement of a gearbox change virgin having a bash)

Following alignment issues with my gearbox which I resolved and a transfer box trying to murder me I am in the final stages of reassembly

New 130 clutch installed (second attempt)

Belhousing and clutch arm swapped over to new box

Finally aligned and bolted in (note the old input gear used to turn the box to line up the splines) I also found aligning the input shaft and spigot bush without the clutch on to get it all ready helped a lot in getting it together, also using the top stud on the engine as a fulcrum to push down on the back of the box casing the input shaft nose to list and find the spigot bush worked well

Weight training did come in handy, well the barbell and a ratchet strap meant I could lift the box in stages and use axle stands to get it level, I also had a transmission jack underneath sharing the weight and allowing the box to slid along something

And its in

I had to move the driver side gearbox mounting ledge on the chassis as the old bush had warped so the new straight one wasn't in line. All bolted together nice and tight.

The linkages and breathers were refitted along with the reverse, difflock and gearbox earth strap. All filled with oil and ready to go

All that is left is to refit the exhaust, props, chassis cross member and the floor panels and gearbox tunnel, hand brake cable needs refitting and a few odds and ends

Turned her over and everything turns as it should but had to switch her off quickly as the exhaust was pumping into the cab with the missing center section and no floor

Should be all buttoned up and ready to roll tomorrow (had to stop as I look after my 7 month old daughter in the evenings when the mrs goes to work)

[Front Tow Hitch]

Then do a swan neck configuration bracing the right angels unlike my drawing

fear my mspaint skills

[Frustration]

or do what I did and keep your old tube and use the new diff and hubs/swivel and shafts, you may need to knock out the 4 middle studs that hold the diff in and fit longer ons (the same length as all the other studs) as the later diff housings have thicker flanges at the 9 abd 3 o'clock edges

saves getting new arms

[Some help before either my temper or back goes pop!]

Well your blood isn't on my hands

Les.

I'm sure claims direct would tell me otherwise

if you would like to settle out of court feel free to pm me

[Some help before either my temper or back goes pop!]

I feel your pain

When I replaced the clutch on my 90 then 300mles later had to do it all again due to not adjusting the new mastercylinder

addto your transfer box a crawler box and the whole thing becomes unbelievably heavy.

All done on my own outside on a gravel driveway.

I take some comfort in the fact I have a garage, and although that gives me a foot and a half either side I can just walk away leaving a transfer box on its nose under the car when I have had enough

The misses was amazed at the bruises on my knees, I think I have nelt on so many tools and nuts (oo er) I just don't feel it any more.

The injuries on my hands and limbs are almost like a documentation of the job I am doing , skined this knuckle on the edge of the footwell undoing a bellhousing bolt, tis leg bruise is dropping the transfer box on myself, bump on the head turning around in a small garage and head butting the wheel on the back on the car , I could go on and on

Oh I had my laptop in the garage to check out Les's guide if I got stuck and managed to drip enough blood into my keyboard that when it congealed it actually stopped my shift key from being pressed down that was from a bur on my transmission jack that sliced my finger big time.

Anyway enough of my ineptitude

I want a bigger garage with a 4 post lift and heating, is that too much to ask

[Some help before either my temper or back goes pop!]

Well today was full of ups and downs

Pulled the box back removed the clutch and could see the spigot was hitting low on the spiggot bearing, not damage just a mark on the outside face. I therefore lined the box up minus clutch to get it all straight and it went in fine so pulled it back ready to put the clutch on.

Recentered clutch and fitted, I slid box on and it just slid home with no effort

Went to put the clutch slave cylinder on and the blighter had crept out over night and what retard at Land Rover thought it was a good idea to stick the bleed screw up there where you can't get a spanner on it! (unless a previous owner put in in upside down).

Anyway sorted that and then came to get the transfer box on....

.... what an awkward git that is, trying to get it on the transmission jack under the car was fruitless so I had to do it outside the car and lift the car with a hilift to give me more room, even then it wouldn't roll under so had to ratchet strap the lot together and drag it over on its side and flip it over underneath.

Then whilst manoeuvring it I clipped the input seal and pushed it through and it fell into the transfer box (again who at Land Rover thought not putting a step on the hole to stop the seal being pushed through was a good idea?)

Seal back in and I though the input gear in would be a far better idea and help line things up so popped that in and did up the retaining ring and cover plate when the transferbox decided it wanted to get back on the the floor as it felt I hadn't had enough grief

At that point I knew today was done as I had no energy to lug the transferbox back up, I may rip out the seatbox to give me room to lift and manoeuvre it, leaving it in seems to have been a false economy.

I wish my chums would play with Landys rather than their xbox360s so I had someone to lend a hand with the heavy stuff (I do like my xbox360 as well to be fair).

Luckily I have taken Mon / Tues/ Weds off as well as getting the bank holiday off so I still have time to do it

[Some help before either my temper or back goes pop!]

I have to fix my garage door first as it decided to un rivet itself in one corner when I closd it yesterday

I am putting the box on without the transferbox on so have just got the main box in gear

I am hoping with a fresh head and a slightly rested back all will go well today

[Some help before either my temper or back goes pop!]

That's what I was going to say, although I don't know the forementioned person

At least that wasn't "your" own stupidity, I may have possibly got excited about getting my Llama4x4 suspension kit and a nice set of ratchet spanners, this resulted in me fitting a front damper then realising after I did the axle bolt up on the shock that the nut had pulled the shock end through so much I couldn't get the ratchet spanner out. No problem I thought I will just undo it and.... oh wait its a ratchet I cant undo it as it just clicks the ratchet

Luckily there is enough give in shock bushes to all ow mr crowbar to lift the shock up enough to get he spanner out

[Some help before either my temper or back goes pop!]

I don't take the weight of the gearbox at all. I've already had a disc removed, so have to be careful - it was rather painful

Les

I was trying to achieve that with the transmission jack but I still had to stick my legs through the gaps in the floor to manoeuvre it, that has taken a toll bending down constantly.

How people do Disco transmissions or even a Defender without a transmission jack I do not know.

Now I am no wimp, although I am not quite the body builder chap of 2-3 years ago I still have some residual muscle

if its a new box , do the studs and holes match up ? I say this becuase I have known a certain person on this very forum that found that he had a stud going into a 'non holed' area after about 2 days of trying to make it fit!

I reused my bell housing so it can't be that but thanks for the suggestion, it is stupid things like that that catch you out lol

After laying in the bath I have a plan in my head, clutch of, check spigot bush, test fit input shaft in spigot bush to make sure it all does fit and to get the boxes lined up, pull it apart leaving everything lined up, recenter clutch, fit clutch, then hopefully slide the gearbox home.

It is terribly frustrating getting caught on something that should have taken a few minutes, I was hoping to have her finished today Still as mechanically minded as I am some things do come down to experience

[Some help before either my temper or back goes pop!]

I did try the old clutch friction disk on the new gearbox just in case there was an issue with the shaft (the previous owner also had a 130 clutch on it

I did try the socket with a small bit of tape to make is a tight fit in the clutch and that slipt through the clutch and into the spigot bearing so I thought it was lined up correctly.

I am trying to keep it all lined up.

The halfrauds tool I used seemed to hold it tight but it may have slipped but then I Would have thought the socket/tape test would have shown up the bad alignment. I will take it off and reset it and try again.

Cheers for your help Les it is most appreciated

As you seem to know all you don't happen to have a cure for a strained back after realigning a gearbox repeatedly for several hours do you

*slopes off for a warm bath

[Some help before either my temper or back goes pop!]

I am currenlty indoors for the day now and have sent the Mrs out to get takeaway

I will have another bash tomorrow, I'll take the clutch off and check the spigot bush to make sure it is undamaged ( I havent used any force so it should be ok) and start afresh.

It was all going to well so have been waiting for something to hold me up lol

Cheers for the advice chaps

[Some help before either my temper or back goes pop!]

the splines feel engaged

when I turn the the rear gear with the box in gear I can fell a clack clack clack as the splines notch over each other then I push the box when it is at this point and they mesh and I can see the clutch cover and flywheel rotate slightly.

It maybe just the tapered ends of the splines are engaging, but no mater what wiggling or shoving the box will always bind at the shaft

[Some help before either my temper or back goes pop!]

As you may have known from my other thread I am fitting a new clutch and gearbox.

All has been going to plan and today I got the old box and clutch off, swapped the bell housing mounted the new clutch and went to fit the new box

3 hours later and the blighter still will not go in

The spigot slides in and using the old input gear on the box with it in 4th I turn the box shaft and can feel the splines mesh and I can push the box forward slightly then it just stops.

I align the clutch with a clutch centering tool and have rechecked several times with a deep socket with a little tape on it and it slides through the clutch plate and into the flywheel.

The fact the splines mesh and that the shaft has a chamfer on the end I can't see why it wont slide on, even it it was slightly out the chamfer would pull it in

The engine and gearbox are at the same angles (I have tried multiple different ones), I have a transmission jack taking the weight of the gearbox but allowing me to lift it and move it about and a trolley jack on the engine keeping it at a decent angle

Have I done something stupid? is there a knack?

All the guides etc I have read don't mention anything special

This is as far as it gets

heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelp

[What did you get for Christmas?]

As the misses and I don't do Christmas I treated myself to one of these beauties

[110 200TDi, how much?]

wandery steering could also be a worn steering box, normally you can adjust the preload and sort that (a recon box only costs £100 after you return the old one), the swivel preload tends to make the steering shake at various speeds and on uneven ground.

I also had vague steering due to really warn radius arm bushes.

What ever it is the steering wont cost much to fix if you do it yourself

Doors are pretty steep new at around £300 but you can normally get them for £150 second hand

I would say to offer £1500 and haggle up but thats just me, I got my 90 F reg with a 200tdi for £950 from £1500 but she was / is a rusty one

[Clutch Change]

Started the gearbox change today and like others found the joy of rusty floor bolts to be a pain but mr grinder sorted those out.

Luckily? my mid exhaust section had a big hole so need changing anyway so that was cut off due to more rusted bolts.

The rear gear was pretty warn so refused to slid off the shaft so that came out with the transfer box.

I think I need to get some welding done on the old chassis or ideally a new one but I don't have the room to do that the reason being is I found a nice hole in my drivers side front outrigger and another pair of holes where the faces of the gearbox cross member mate to the chassis rails

I have the main box and clutch to pull tomorrow and then put all the new bits on and put it back together.

Some nice rust holes

Nice red rusty gunge from the dead spline

[Britpart Springs]

I run the standard height shorter rears in the front to deal with my winch and the standard height longer rears in the back, they seem to work fine and gave a good lift over the standard springs that had sagged

I can't advise if the britpart springs will last the test of time as they have only been on 3 months but at £15 each or there abouts I am not that bothered

[Clutch Change]

You'll probably need an SVA after fitting that lot!

Les.

In all seriousness due to recent events I am looking into doing just that in the new year as apart from the standard body style and un-altered chassis I think I score no points for any other area SVA/IVA wise

It is interesting considering that apart from the the llama4x4 suspension setup (still stock lift) it is all like for like just reconned bits off other motors, it is not like a bobbed 4 linked challenge truck yet still requires a check.

I suppose we are all painfully aware why it is needed and I hope more of us will be putting our Landys in, if you are confident enough to drive on your handywork and put your and your loved ones life in it then surely you are confident it will fly through an SVA?

[Clutch Change]

Well my Christmas present to myself came early

A nice shiny Ashcroft LT77, I plumpt for the later 56G variant with the thicker gears and better pump while I was at it

I now have everything I need to start my box and clutch change

Lots of floor bolts and and captive nuts etc so I have no floor/ tunnel issues, I did miss off the new cross drilled input gear in this pic

Shiney Rackway release bearing carrier

This means that I now have reconned transfer box, gearbox, new props new difs with a truetrac and detroit locker, new brake lines, discs & pads, new springs and dampers, trailing arms, every suspension bush is new, and a reconned steering box, oh and a 40k defender 200tdi engine.

Not bad for 6 months ownership (bar the engine that was done before me)

As a work colleague said today, it looks battered to carp on the outside but is virtually as new internally

Just going to order a new cross-member and start hunting for a decent NATO hitch for the next phase

Addictive stuff!!

[Front Tow Hitch]

My old ARB bumper had a thick bit of box section on the bottom of it with another square bit of tube with a ball hitch on the end that sloted into the one on the bumper and used a pin to adjust the position or for total removal

Isn't this the simplest thing to make?

[Newbie with an Old Truck]

lol old indeed!

She look immaculately, nice one chap