lo-fi
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Posts posted by lo-fi
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Cheers for that, got ya. Not too late to change it, haven't welded a thing yet!
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7 minutes ago, oneandtwo said:
The door pillar pressing should be positioned under the top skin of the bulkhead where you have rebuilt the corner, and spot welded to it, that’s what the pressed step in the top of the pillar is for.
The whole section was missing, so I've kinda improvised so it lines up. If you've got any pics I'd be interested!
Edit: oh, I knew what you mean now I think about it. I think I'll fettle that out and get shot of another bit of Land Rovers stupid #£@@%/ rust trap sandwich construction.
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Thanks both. Looks like another project to add to the list! Definitely interested in some pics of the brake if you can find. If I can get 2mm steel 90o over 650mm, I'll be happy!
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Hi folks
Despite struggling with enthusiasm lately, I decided to get into the buikhead for my '65 88" project, which got shamefully started over a year ago and not updated.
The plan is for a V8, and I managed to pick up a slightly crispy but unmolested 6 pot bulkhead for not very much for the project. I hate undoing other peoples
workbodges, so despite missing most of the footwells it's a lovely candidate. Few spots up the left corner:
And the remainder of the footwells chopped out:
Spot of fettling:
I had some pillars and footwells in stock. Usual cheap ebay jobs. Now, despite common belief (and I include myself here) the 6 pot bulkhead is not wider between the footwells than the 4 pot. It's only deeper in the transmission tunnel area. Anyone that's fitted a V8 will tell you that you need to scallop the passenger footwell, and being a fusspot, I think that's ugly. I know: you can't see it. But I know it's there. I decided, as I needed to make up the inner panels as well, that I might as well mimic the drivers side, giving the magic 2" extra room for a proper engine. Old parts side by side, drivers closest:
New footwells, drivers on the left:
Fabricating new sides. Quite easy with my little shear/brake/roller:
And creative use of the welding table:
Together it goes:
Letting new bits of tin into the bottoms:
The passenger side needed some fettling to get the profile right:
So I made a simple paper template to copy the other side:
Coming together quote nicely:
It's only got one or two tacks in, plus a few clamps, so I can pull the new bits off and send it for shot blasting before fully welderising it. Not too bad a job, all told: Just a Friday afternoon and a Sunday. Once it's all back in I've got a few gussets and bits and pieces to knock up, then I can call it done and get it painted.
To galv or now to galv....? I'm very tempted to just vacuum bag it upside down with a few tins of POR15 inside the bag
That's the interesting bit, anyway!
TTFN
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I suspect you're right, but have found it interesting over the years seeing how different components do or don't wear and trying to unpick the story. Fingers crossed, though!
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1 hour ago, Gazzar said:
As the cam is so badly worn at number 4 cylinder, I was planning on replacing the oil pump as a precaution. I've found no blockage in the oil ways, so I can only assume the engine wasn't circulating enough oil toward the top of the engine.
The cam may be a result of the crank bearings failing. With the mains worn so badly, the oil can flow out far more easily, meaning there's less reason for it get pushed up to the cam and up top. Number 4 is furthest from the oil pump, so you can see the story unfolding. Teardown post mortem is one of my favourite parts of rebuilding broken stuff!
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It depends, I think, on how the engine has been treated. Low oil pressure even with decent, frequently changed oil will wreck bearings and rings won't care. They don't need pressure, just enough splash with an oil film that holds up. Good oil pressure with bad oil seems to be the other way round and does bores no favours. A consistently over fueling petrol engine also tends to wear bores, as does lots of heavy towing. Don't have any data to to back that up, just trends I've noticed when stripping engines. I'd certainly be carefully checking - or more likely replacing - the oil pump and relief valve on that engine.
Calipers are ok for checking bores, but you'll want to use a micrometer for the crank journals. Not many people have 4 or 5"+ micrometers laying around(!), but 0-2" are definitely handy to have in the tool box.
Keep up the good work
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@miketomcat is the man to ask
Lotus glued the Elise aluminium chassis together with some form of epoxy, so I don't see why you can't get a decent result. Getting it clean will be key, for sure. Break the oxide off with a stainless wire brush that's never been used for anything else, rubbing only one direction (no power tools), clean with acetone until a fresh rag comes up spotless would how how I'd approach it. Same as prep for TIG welding really. I'm sure Mike will have more to add, though.
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Priceless knowledge
Yep, you're absolutely right on the end corners. I didn't care much here as the ends of the corners are hidden under the pillars and easy enough to knock down, but next time I come to do something like this I'll refer back to your comments and improve my method. Thank you!
If you were going to buy (or make) a metal folder, would you go for a box and pan type, or a press brake? The Binky boys have a great box and pan type that's clearly home brew and I'm quite tempted to have a go.
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I took some inspiration from you and made myself a hammer form for making a piece of bulkhead. Looking forward to seeing your next one!
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My problem aside, there's some absolute gold in this thread, so thank you all.
Stuff that's been suggested that I'm not so good at:
Posting progress here and getting help/mates round.
Working away in isolation really isn't easy. I think the steam engine project has, in a funny way, made the personal projects harder. At the railway, I've got a team of 9 (and growing) volunteers who are desperate to get stuck in and are having a great time doing so in the same fashion I did when I first started that hobby. I still love it, but the challenge is now that I've got to impart the knowledge I've built up over the years to them. It's just not possible to get stuck in the doldrums when you've got people eagerly asking "what do we do next and how?". That kind of energy can carry you through anything, no matter how big a slog it is. At home, it's just me messing about with rotten bits of tin.
@Tanuki I'm certainly coming round to that way of thinking. Bulkheads are eye wateringly expensive for what you get though, so I found it hard to justify when I can do it well myself, motivation aside. I love getting into a gearbox, though!
Tidy workshop, make lists, do little stuff, take inspiration from other people's successes/projects are all things I'd give a hearty thumbs up to. As is suck it up and "just have at it". Don't get me started on scope creep. That's a killer and can be paralysing. I've managed to be better at avoiding that particular bear trap lately.
Thanks again to all
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On the one hand, I'm not surprised. On the other, I have doubts that the length of exposure a hobbyist is subjected to pose a significant risk. I'll not be rushing out to buy an air fed helmet any time soon in any case. I do use a decent mask with appropriate filters when welding less than pristine metal or anything that's been galved even after grinding the zinc off the weld area. The 3M 7500 series are excellent under a welding helmet.
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What's the alleged infringement?
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Thanks chaps, really appreciate the feedback and encouragement. I'm at about a years break from it before starting again recently, and I do have a working 109 which I kind of enjoy. Other projects... Bought a mill, overhauling a (full size) steam engine, built a winch.
All great suggestions; only thing I haven't tried is getting some help in. I have a few mates that owe me favours, so might call a few in and see if that helps.
8 minutes ago, monkie said:I think that procrastination is a big problem with anything. If you just get on and do it, committing yourself then you can amaze yourself at what you can achieve
That's pretty much what I'm doing, but still a long way from enjoying myself. Maybe I'll feel better once I've finally got a bulkhead done.
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Got a couple of projects languishing unfinished... A late 2A 109 6 pot SW and an early 2A 88. Both need major bulkhead surgery, the 88 chassis needs a patch up, the 109 a new chassis. I'm currently slogging through a bulkhead resto thinking "this is utter #£_@#". Its not difficult, it's just needless hard work because it was designed/made so poorly to start with and the repair panels are less than great to say the least. I've had several fits of rage over why you'd go to the trouble of making a lovely press tool for the vent panels, only to produce panels that are designed to be a nasty bodge fit. Anyway... I digress.
We've all been here with Land Rover projects, I'm sure.... What do you do/have done/are doing to get you over the "Land Rovers are awful and why am I doing this?" doldrums? I'm kind of at the point where I need a second wind or just say sod it, flog the valuable parts and chuck the rest in the scrap. House move coming up in August, and I'm not moving it all as parts again!!
Sincerely, one very disillusioned Land Rover owner.
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Throw a few dimensions at me, I'll knock a couple out on the Bridgeport. Be a nice first project for the beautiful Japanese rotary table I picked up for next to nothing and haven't used yet.
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You clearly need the bigger model
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12 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
The vast proportion of the cost of an EV is the battery, 15-30k easily, and it's huge and heavy and very explodey in a crash, which is why I think Tesla etc. get very good NCAP scores - if they didn't ace it the battery would explode in test centre and they'd get null points compared to an ICE car.
Tesla quoted me 10k for a battery swapout when I questioned that. I was surprised. As far as safety ratings... The lack of boat anchor at the front means they could make the crash structure and crumple zones huge and not have to worry about said anchor flying into the cabin either. Part of the advantage of being designed from the ground up as an EV, not just a golf with a large starter motor and a few extra batteries.
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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F233320495376
These work really well as a cost effective counterbore
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You could probably knock Dr Ranged's lovely design out of ali on your cnc mill.
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Very cool toy! I've never had call to use a scope when setting up efi, though. Pretty much everything is a multi-meter job measuring resistance or voltage. The one time a portable scope would have been interesting would have been when running a VR crank sensor on a BMW which was picking up some noise at high rpm. Even so, it was easy enough to look at the data from the ecu and figure out that the shielding wasn't working correctly without resorting to the scope. Pretty much every other sensor is quite boring to look at as they change comparatively slowly, the data logger captures anyway and the log viewer displays it all nicely graphed.
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1 minute ago, miketomcat said:
Left field question those that have driven talk about not needing brakes. So do the brake lights come on with regenerative braking. If not I for see a lot of rear end shunted teslas....
Mike
Yes, they do. I asked the same question.
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There's an earthing fault somewhere, which the fogs are revealing. Check the earthing thoroughly, paying particular attention to the ones between wiring harness and bulkhead and instrument panel.
How are the fogs earthed?
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4 hours ago, Gazzar said:
I hope you enjoy your Toyota Corolla.
... and
tolerateenjoy Land Rovers vicariously helping mates fix theirs. All the fun, none of the pain and cost! A bit like being the cool, childless uncle that buys the kids noisy toys, winds them up and disappears up the pub
TD5 to V8
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Gearbox work is really best not done in the vehicle, its really hard to keep everything clean. Not that much work to hoik it out of you've got that far anyway. I've not worked on the R380, but if it's anything like the boxes I have opened up you're in with a chance of being able to swap the input and housing without ripping it all apart. I'd give Ashcroft a ring, ask for the parts involved and some pointers on whether it's possible or practical.
Regarding fueling a 4.6 with the setup from a 3.9... With the benefit of experience putting a fueling system from a 3.5 to put on a 3.9 myself: you'd find it nigh on impossible to get it to run right and you've got little option for tweaking it with the standard ecu. Frustration looms down this path. A serp 3.9 if you're not comfortable doing a megasquirt install is going to be the sweet spot for a good outcome without a shadow of a doubt.
I like the thinking, though. Down with the Devils FuelTM!!!