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lo-fi last won the day on October 29

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  1. By-the-by: It's not just the 19J that suffers cracked pistons. An unlucky mate of mine had two 12J's in a row let go. The one in the vehicle originally had three pistons cracked; the "it's a low mileage minter, honest mate" replacement he obtained had suffered the same demise with all four. I suspect in the first instance it was timing or injector related as he could never get it to run right. The second one is anybody's guess. If you're reading inconsistent compression between cylinders, it's time to take the head off regardless. Whatever you might need to do to rectify it will require access to valves, pistons or the gasket itself, so grab a decent gasket kit, get spannering and hope for the best would be my approach here. From the video, my money would be on cracked piston, broken rings or a serious gasket failure cylinder to an oil passage.
  2. Always learn something from your threads. Thanks for sharing
  3. Look on the bright side: at least you don't have a Land Rover to break too
  4. A common problem... Bigger the gob the better the job!
  5. Looks pretty good Try modifying the cranking pulsewidth table, give it a little more juice. IIRC, it's set up as a percentage of req_fuel against coolant temp.
  6. You may find that it's actually the "cranking pulsewidth" table that you want to change. Or you may find that your req_fuel setting is off, and it's actually this that wants sorting along with your fuel table. The cranking pulsewidth is calculated from req_fuel, so if that's out so will the cranking values. Its quite common to have an engine running perfectly well with req_fuel completely out of whack with correspondingly whacky figures in the fuel table to compensate. Post your fuel table and we'll soon be able to tell if I'm on the right lines
  7. If they're definitely the same injectors? Otherwise you'll need a full set of 8 that match. Be careful as while they might look physically the same and fit, they may not behave the same as what you already have, which means mixing and matching isn't an option.
  8. Swap them round, if the lean cylinder swaps to the location with the suspect injector you've found your problem. They click quite loudly when working too, so use a piece of pipe from your ear to close to the suspect injector and listen. Doesn't mean it's flowing, but clicking means the solenoid is moving.
  9. No, silly: it generates power from the "free" energy created by the intake air. This is fed back in via the lighter socket making enough power to turn the alternator into a motor. Over 3000 rpm it'll feel like VTEC just kicked in, yo!! Get a two way lighter socket adaptor and enjoy it supercharging the lighter socket superchip too...
  10. The other possibility rather than an ignition issue is a poorly injector or injector wiring fault on number 7. The popping will be it running very, very lean. As Bowie said, the rest have been running extremely rich. FFR: This is a great example of why EGO correction and/or autotune should only be used once you're sure everything is working correctly, and the lambda reading itself should be questioned until you've proved you've not got something skewing it. Looks like you're homing in on the problem, though
  11. That's a nice idea! All I need now is another drum and a stainless steel sink... I'll post results once we've run a good few loads through it. The bits of loco ripe for treatment are covered in the stockiest goo imaginable... A nasty mix of old oil, ash and soot mixed with brake dust, which in this case is cast iron. Its the consistency of window putty. Truly horrible.
  12. My reasoning was that I couldn't just flush the outlet down the drain, so mains inlet didn't make a lot of sense. And you're right: neat degreaser this way, though it is dilute-able
  13. We tried just gravity feeding it, but it needs a bit more pressure than that. Not much, it only needs the valve closed a little for it to be happy. I'd expect diesel to kill one in short order, it'll break down seals not designed for it quite quickly. Screwfix No Nonsense degreaser seems to be OK (and super cheap), and if you're doing only ferrous parts you could pop a dishwasher tab in which will really get things moving.
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