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lo-fi last won the day on August 10

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  1. lo-fi

    Distributor vacuum advance

    Hehe. Yep, no argument there I think the idea having the port right next to the throttle plate is that it's furthest away from the pistons causing local under-pressure on the inlet strokes. Atmospheric pressure being higher causes flow, but at that point the static pressure will be very near atmospheric as there's little restriction upstream of that point save the throttle plate, who's position we essentially want to measure. This same might not quite be the case with the connection to the brake servo in the manifold, but I'm sure the 2.25 won't care much.
  2. lo-fi

    Distributor vacuum advance

    Vacuum caused locally at the jet by venturi effect Cackshifter is right, it'll run without it. For anyone Interested, the excellent article Dave posted above goes into why its desirable to have, though.
  3. lo-fi

    Distributor vacuum advance

    There really no vacuum port on the SU? How strange. Ideally you want as close as possible to the throttle plate - I'm not sure if the vacuum will drop as readily in the servo line - but I doubt it'll worry a 2.25. You could always put a vac connection in the carb? Drill through somewhere close to the throttle plate (manifold, not filter side), put a piece of brass tube in secured with epoxy if you're not confident of getting a nice press fit.
  4. I'll weigh it and compare to the original tub, but I reckon it's probably comparable - the tubs are heavier than you might expect - so somewhere around the rated 3/4 ton. My new frame is quite light, but the wooden top does add a few kilos.
  5. So, another project... I bought a cheap narrow track Sankey last year. Usual deal: tub knackered, the rest thriving on abuse and neglect. Another one came along in much better shape, so that got an overhaul and a lick of paint leaving this one stood looking sorry for itself. I've been musing about a conversion to make it useful, so the idea of a flatbed was born... I'm now about to move house (massive garden, tarmac drive and lovely double garage - yey), so the project got moved up the list and this was born last weekend: Still very much a work in progress, but I got the wooden top on last night: It has yet to be secured down; I'm waiting on rivnuts to secure the plates. Plenty of room underneath for potential camping supplies if I ever feel the need. The bed can be used as a base for a tent. I'll give it a once over mechanically, and a civilian plug and convert the lights to Land Rover lenses with these little adaptors I've been 3D printing: I don't like the bug eyes much and the glass ones are expensive. These are cheap, easily obtained and CE marked Cleats/tiedowns, strengthening ribs, finishing plates, paint and other odds and ends still to do. That's all for now, I'll add bits as it progresses.
  6. lo-fi

    Series 3 Petrol, Cuts Out..........

    Marginal contact somewhere? Put it down to "a Series thing" Glad you got it sorted.
  7. lo-fi

    Series 3 Petrol, Cuts Out..........

    What are the symptoms when it cuts out? Lumpy? slow? rich/black smoke? Suddenly stops? I'd be taking a good look at the ignition system before moving on to fuel.
  8. lo-fi

    valve stem seals

    Just out of curiosity, how are you getting on with it?
  9. Yes. I suspect you'll find them way out of spec. The springs must be in the correct holes. You won't stretch the bottom spring over with the shoes in place, you'll have to use the method either me or Gazza suggested.
  10. Think about it methodically before firing the parts cannon at it.... It boils down to the rear taking more fluid (one way or another) than the master cylinder is designed for. I think (correct me if I'm wrong), "the master you've got now is designed for a disk front, drum rear? Are you 100% certain the drums are in spec? It's quite possible to get the adjusters feeling like they're tight, but there being a long way to go until it's actually putting much braking effort in with the pedal, particularly if the drums are worn. If you've "pumped up" the brakes with a second movement of the pedal, if you let off, then immediately reapply the brakes, what happens? Do you get a firm pedal straight away, or do you have to pump again? If you bleed until you're confident there's no air in the rear, do you find air in the system if you bleed again after a drive?
  11. Here you go: Apologies for the poor lighting and production quality. Hopefully you get the idea
  12. Here's the easy way. Put the cylinders on the back plates. On the bench, assemble the bottom spring in the shoes. Angle the slots in the cylinders slightly so you can place the tops of the shoes in them without locating the bottoms. Place the bottom of one shoe in the bracket. Put the top spring in one shoe, lever it over and onto the hole on the other. Using a lever (large, long screwdriver or similar will do), lever the bottom of the remaining shoe against the spring and you'll be able to locate it in the bottom carrying bracket. You can place the end of the lever against the hub and push against a flat portion of the curved part of the shoe that the friction material is bonded to. Job done, no bruised knuckles or swearing required
  13. lo-fi

    Re installing track rods and steering linkage

    The bottom arm should be straight ahead, the top offset a spline so the angle between is less than 90. The BGB gives lengths that the arms should be set to, which is usually enough to get everything else started. I can probably scan a page or two if you need.
  14. lo-fi

    Series 3 instrument voltage stabilizer

    Similar to this: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253756291467
  15. lo-fi

    Series 3 instrument voltage stabilizer

    Solid state all the way. I've got one I believe I got from ebay, its been great. Its just a low dropout voltage reg in a nice little potted box with three wires coming out.

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