Jump to content
If you value this forum's future please support us


Settled In
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


lo-fi last won the day on January 4

lo-fi had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

26 Excellent

About lo-fi

  • Rank
    Old Hand

Profile Information

  • Location

Recent Profile Visitors

535 profile views
  1. 6cyl SWB?

    The gearbox is indeed mounted further back in the 109. To accommodate this, the crossmember immediately behind the hand brake drum is also further back in the chassis - about two~three inches if memory serves. Do bear in mind that finding a six pot in decent order is pretty hard and/or expensive these days, and parts are also expensive. The humble V8 will be an easier fit in a SWB, return same or better mileage and cost far less. They also weigh a lot less! They're hefty bits of iron those old blocks, as you've already figured out. I'm doing a six pot for a late 2A restoration, because I want to keep it as originally built - the cost is vaguely eye watering. I bought the best "running" P4 engine I could in the hope I could get away without rebuilding the seized LR engine, but for many hundreds of pounds I got a block that's worn through the coating on the bearings shells and has bores worn enough to require oversize pistons and a rebore. It runs, but it's far from healthy. Now I know what I'm looking for, I'm struggling to find better. I understand the urge to do something different, and they're lovely old things, but I'd question it being worth the work. My 2p worth, anyway.
  2. I'm almost disappointed that's not the actual steering wheel, Soren Very cool.
  3. New [old] Camelback Drill

    You might find the 1 horse a bit gutless if you're intending to punch through stuff with the large drills it's possible to fit in that MT3 spindle, but for smaller bits in a Jacobs chuck it should be fine. Rotation of single phase motors can be reversed if needed, you just have to fiddle with the start capacitor connection. Is it flat belt? If so, save yourself some pain and convert it to A section V belt with a couple of Ali pulleys. Not sure about the twist, though... Do they mean figure 8, or like a mobius strip? The lever might seem like a nice idea, but there's something to be said for the button type which drop out when power is removed. Much harder to accidentally start by catching a sleeve on, and you can mount a foot operated stop switch too. Looks like a lovely tool, though. Old school iron is so much nicer than flimsy modern stuff! I'll look forward to a few pics
  4. "Lazy" starter motor?.

    Knackered brushes or a broken spring. They're easy enough and cheap to replace. Could also be it's just partly seized and expending a lot of effort turning itself. Pull it out and give it some TLC.
  5. Where’s your Snow pictures?

    The normal hay delivery couldn't get through, so the rural life support machine did its thing: The little sankey behaved so well on treacherous roads, I was very impressed. It did amuse me having a mini snow drift inside the window in the morning: Blew in through the tiny gap between the two window panes.
  6. Chang of engine on v5

    If you wouldn't mind, that would be great
  7. Chang of engine on v5

    Just out of interest, can you remember where you read that?
  8. Series swb 5 Speed Conversion - Help

    That's exactly what I've done with mine in the 109 It started out as a 1.4. I probably should have included in my notes, but figured it was maybe out of scope for a "will this bolt up?" discussion. I agree, the ratios do come out well suited to a series. Like the sticker too!
  9. Series swb 5 Speed Conversion - Help

    Yes. And even so, the rear prop will be pretty short. You may also run into issues with clearance between the mid crossmember and the hand brake drum, meaning its impossible to remove to service without taking the transfer box out, which in itself is a tricky proposition with space being so tight. Literally nothing bolts up. You'll end up having to fabricate plates to pick up the series mounts. Unless you're happy running permanent 4wd with series UJ's, yes. No, it's independent either way on an LT230 The hand brake is on the LT230, which comes in cable operated or rod op like the series. I'm afraid I can't remember which comes in what vehicle. The rod can be made to work, as could the cable, but both need a bit of head scratching. Also think about gear ratios. Commonly available 1.22 transfer boxes are lower than the series 1.15, negating the benefit somewhat. 1.4 doesn't work well at all on 4.7 diffs if you want to go over 50. You can change diffs for 3.54, but then you've borked your low ratio too and added even more work. Everyone I've seen do this has taken their own path, be it making mounts to pick up existing series positions or adding crossmembers from existing vehicles, custom props vs scalloping bellhousing crossmembers, moving the engine forwards or not, using defender style high/low or making linkages to retain series levers, modifying or building custom tunnel... The list goes on. There are a lot of design decisions involved, and quite a bit of engineering if you want to do it well, rather than an smash it in, bodge as you go and hope for the best. A mate of mine bought an 88 S3 with 200tdi and LT77 with LT230, which was the most horrific bodge I've ever seen. It worked, but servicing it was just plain awful, and the rear prop at a mere 8 or 10 inches ate UJ's (and a diff pinion bearing) like they were going out of fashion. He sold it on quite quickly, or I'd have ripped it apart and started again. Hope that answers a few questions, anyway
  10. Think of it as a triangle, is what Carlos is getting at, I think. What you've designed makes a very shallow one, which acts as a force multiplier when pressure is applied pushing the point between the short sides towards the longer one. The shallower it is, the more mechanical advantage it has. Whether that's a problem or not for the exact geometry and forces involved probably needs some calculation. I'm sure you've covered this, so apologies if I've no doubt missed it in long threads, but wouldn't 1 link have been a much simpler, more compact and easier way to go? Pick up on the original axle mounts to an A frame (which could itself have that cunning box section stiffener/steering guard built in) with a large spherical or multi axis joint at the chassis end? Ought to be skookum as frig as AvE would say...
  11. Give these guys a shout, they make chassis parts and may be able to sell you a new tube: http://www.ddsmetal.co.uk I've bought brackets for swb rears, so I know they have a supply of correct size tubes, or possibly roll their own.
  12. OT - Ford engine oil pressure way too high

    Is that the PRV sticking out towards the oil seal bottom right? See if you can get to it, might be a little plate held in with a circlip if you're lucky. Spring loaded and a bleep to get back on, though
  13. series 3 brake pipes??

    Get yourself a nice pipe cutter too - the ends have to be square to get a nice flare. You'll find it's actually quite an enjoyable job. Plain copper tube is lovely to work, copper nickel alloy is a little less free bending and slightly tougher to flare. Might be a good call before you start to establish whether you've got metric or imperial unions, so ordering up a single 10mm and 3/8 union to try in the holes is possibly wise. A 3/8 will fit into a 10mm hole, being 9.525mm, and just catch on the threads, but not well, so be wary of that one. One side of the master cylinder is probably bigger thread than the other to stop them getting mixed up. If memory serves, larger is 7/16, but still for the 3/16 pipe, where the normal ones are 3/8. I believe the PDWA valve also takes these. Again, assuming it's UNF. You'll want to look up what type of flare is appropriate for the unions you've got too. HTH
  14. whats wrong with this picture :)

    Oops. Looks like one of those "stanced" things: Some fake carbon held on with pop rivets and Halfords blind on credit ought to complete the look.
  15. OT - Ford engine oil pressure way too high

    Just to be sure, did the correct oil go in after the low pressure warning? Too thick, particularly when cold, can cause this on an engine designed for thin oil. Was it a level or pressure warning that came on during the journey home?