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lo-fi last won the day on August 21

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About lo-fi

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  1. lo-fi

    Breakdown Cover

    RAC got me home with a dead 109 and sankey. A trailer with a normal hitch, they'd tow apparently. In my case with the nato hitch they sent a truck big enough to put landy and trailer on. No fuss, just a bit of a wait while they found a contractor with a large enough truck. Fair enough really.
  2. lo-fi

    Correct spark advance for RV8 3.5

    So sorry, I'm getting threads mixed up! Ignore comments on fuel pressure.
  3. lo-fi

    Correct spark advance for RV8 3.5

    Ah no, what a shame about the welded thread! I remember having the same problem with the trim angle; I believe it was a bug "feature" that it didn't do quite what you might expect. Great to know its bang on, though! Given your lack of fuel pressure I'm not surprised it's not been running very well - it will have been very lean. The old V8 is very tolerant, but has its limits. Any progress on the fuel pressure? You've got a decent timing map and verified timing to build on, so once you get that lambda going it won't take long to get it running really nicely. What lambda did you go for?
  4. lo-fi

    Nice home-made 40T forging hydraulic press

    Fantastic. I need something like that myself... Hmmm...
  5. You probably need to think about the fueling a different way: the only way to get it right for your setup is tune it yourself. With a spark table, a well set up not-too-aggressive map for a standard rover V8 will work for just about any standard rover V8. What defines it (head design, compression, head flow) doesn't change much unless something quite radical has been done to an engine. The fueling is quite different: There are a few injector, pump and regulator options to choose from. Displacement, manifolds, exhaust, air filter, valve size and a multitude of other factors (even the spark table) affect the fuel requirements. A map for one setup will be less that optimal for another - possibly completely off - and it might only be one of those things that's slightly different. Gef it running using whatever means you have to. If that means changing the req fuel, so be it. If you find down the line that you're having to put silly vales in the table, go back and change the req fuel and scale the map. The actual values are not crucial so long as they give the correct AFR. What I'd suggest you do before going any further is verify that you've got stable fuel pressure. If its wavering about all over the place, you've got zero chance of getting a solid fuel map regardless of what you do with the req fuel, and even less chance that someone else's map will even get you in the ballpark to build on.
  6. Yep, that looks great . Well chosen!
  7. That's what I was thinking in my earlier post. I've seen setups which drop fuel pressure as manifold vacuum increases, which means large injectors can be run without having ridiculously short opening times with light load, but it makes no sense for fuel pressure to drop as demand is increased as Pete suggested in an earlier post. This really ought to be looked at. It's either pump, a blockage or the regulator at fault if that is the case... Could you post the spark table you're running, Pete? There's a lot of absolute garbage out there so it's worth checking you're starting with something sane.
  8. lo-fi

    Anyone used a KV6 in a Landy?

    The early hand made versions had problems with manufacturing tolerances, but the later ones are supposed to be better. As for the Korean ones... http://s10.photobucket.com/user/Tropla/media/simons/P7209800_zpswjh2t92j.jpg.html From this view, it doesn't much look like it'll bolt up to an LT box. He's using a PG1 with converted output flanges.
  9. lo-fi

    Correct spark advance for RV8 3.5

    I'd expect it to be lower at idle, maybe 45kpa or so. There's nothing badly wrong, just the tuning could be better. You'll find as you improve it that the rpm will rise - you're making more power - so you'll wind the throttle stop down to bring the idle down again. As I said above, I think you're probably running a bit retarded (pardon the expression), so you'll probably find it's a bit more lively as you get that sorted. I'll be interested to see what you find when you get a timing light to it.
  10. lo-fi

    Anyone used a KV6 in a Landy?

    Yep, like your thinking. If the stock ECU is tied into immobiliser stuff, your best bet might be to go megasquirt. Driving the variable induction to best effect is probably the biggest challenge but doesn't look insurmountable by any means. I think the 4 pots have different bellhousings to the v6, don't they? In any case, there's always a way to make an adaptor plate. There's one on ebay for £200 you could use to measure up. I'll get the popcorn
  11. lo-fi

    Correct spark advance for RV8 3.5

    That's what makes it such a great forum Timing guns can struggle to trigger off wasted spark setups like EDIS that are firing two plugs at a time with a common coil. Mileage may vary and you may get lucky, though. Be very careful if you use one of the posh timing lights that has an RPM readout and a dial to correct a btdc spark event to coincide with a tdc marker: as is hopefully clear, each plug gets fired twice as many times as it would in a "normal" setup so indicated rpm and advance will be double unless it has a "two stroke" setting. The cheap "dumb" lights are actually a much safer bet here if you can get one to trigger. One cheat I've seen and used is to get a spare spark plug to open the gap up on and swap out for whichever plug is paired with no. 1 (I forget which on edis 8). This biases the spark to the shorter gap on no. 1, hopefully enough to trigger the light. Lacking power, if its running "OK" (not overly lean or rich) otherwise is usually lack of advance. The equivalent of having the static timing retarded on a dizzy. You can correct this in the table or with trims, of course, but as you're doing, it's better to know where you're starting from.
  12. lo-fi

    Correct spark advance for RV8 3.5

    No. "Static timing" isn't really a relevant concept with efi. The important bit is that the measured timing matches what the ecu thinks its setting the advance to. In normal operation, the ecu will adjust the timing based on rpm and load according to what's in the spark advance table - including idle. For setup, you can specify a "fixed timing" angle, which ignores the table and locks into that. Its useful as it gives you time to check with a timing light and see that what you're measuring matches what you've set and adjust the trigger wheel accordingly. If you're going to do this, a good value would be anywhere 0-10 degrees. You can also cheat with edis and disconnect the SAW wire. If its not sent a Spark Advance Word, edis defaults to 10° btdc. The MS still gets an RPM signal from the PIP wire so long as you don't disconnect that. If you're new to it, I'd suggest reading the msextra manual thoroughly! As Bowie points out, some way of verifying that the mark on the pulley matches TDC is very wise on an RV8. Yes it's a pain. As far as tuning advance goes, aim for having it run the nicest and getting max rpm for a given amount of throttle is about as close as you'll get to a poor man's measure of reaching max torque. If it's pinging, you've gone too far, though! I'd suggest you have a pretty good understanding before getting stuck into that, however. If it's a decent MS kit, the spark table that came with the ecu should be fine to get you up and running.
  13. lo-fi

    TIG Welder Throws The Trip...

    I've often thought that would be a good way myself, it's only really the starting current that causes a single phase supply problems. I changed over to multi grade oil in my large compressor and the stalling problem when cold went away though, so never pursued it either.
  14. lo-fi

    2.5L Diesel vs. 2.5L Petrol

    Yeah, I wasn't particularly happy! It might have been OK for some in an 88, but I just hated it. I don't rate the land rover turbo diesels much either, but best to keep quiet about that round here 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿
  15. lo-fi

    2.5L Diesel vs. 2.5L Petrol

    I had one in my S3. It was the most awful, stinking, gutless piece of garbage I've ever had the misfortune to set hands upon. A conversion I instantly regretted; I hardly drove it for three years. Then I put a V8 in and I'm happy every time I get behind the wheel. If you're going to enjoy driving it, my take would be this: don't bother with an asthmatic diesel.

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