Jump to content
If you value this forum's future please support us


Settled In
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


lo-fi last won the day on March 7

lo-fi had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

About lo-fi

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
  1. 3.5 v8 8.13:1 compression test

    Many years ago I had a 3.5 that missed like that, and I could never sort, no matter what I tried with fuel or ignition. Turned out one of the cam lobes was so worn it was barely opening number 7 inlet valve. I bet if I had compression tested it, it would have read less than the rest. Whip the inlet off and have a look - the cam gives you a really good indicator of V8 health.
  2. Black smoking now after ticking noise issue.

    You're not having much luck! The inlet hoses have been known to delaminate and collapse internally, starving it of air, causing a rich condition, lack of power and black smoke. They usually "look OK" from a casual inspection. More a lack of air than too much fuel, but amounts to the same thing. Usually worse when hot. A restriction in the exhaust could also cause the same, of course. I only mention because you said you'd changed it... Piece of packing getting where it shouldn't, or even a manufacturing defect isn't impossible. Less likely than inlet hose, but worth throwing it in as a "cover the simple stuff first". Hope you get it sorted without too much fuss.
  3. Cold starting issues - new build rover 3.5v8

    Is it easier to start if you squirt a little fuel into the intakes when cold? If so, you have a fueling problem, if not, you've likely got a spark problem. Have you balanced and tuned the carbs when you have had it running? One other thing I'd ask is when you rebuilt the carbs, are you sure you got all the bits of the choke mechanism on the right way? If I recall correctly, you can get one of the plates or linkage on 180 degrees out, so the holes don't line up. Also that the tiny little passages were clear of buildup. Mine weren't when I rebuilt them, and took some clearing. If it's too lean due to lack of working choke enrichment, it will be a pig to start, but still smell of unburned petrol - it's just too lean to burn. Obviously not a problem when hot. My 3.9 on rebuilt similar vintage Strombergs, a Bosch coil, Powerspark electronic points and standard leads starts hot or cold with the merest ticket of the starter, no special technique required other than setting the choke. Right out if it's really below freezing; less depending how cold. A tiny smidge for first start on hot summer days, and nothing if the engine is even the least bit warm. Could be weak spark as Bowie says, the Lucas stuff isn't always what it used to be even if it's brand new out if the box - that's why I've got a Bosch coil... Pop a squirt of fuel down the throat of each carb on the next cold start and see how it goes.
  4. Bulkhead repairer

    I'll be interested to know how you get on, I've got a couple of 2A bulkheads to do myself.
  5. Bulkhead repairer

    I've not had a whole bulkhead repaired, but I've had some repair panels from the welding wood: https://m.facebook.com/TheWeldingWood/?locale2=en_GB They're nothing short of exquisite quality. We had a good chat at the Leafers at t'pit event earlier this year too. Top guy, hell of a craftsman.
  6. Marvellous! On the subject of small, nimble, light... Can I throw four wheel steering at you as an idea? I know that screams complication, but... How about something ingeniously simple and purely mechanical? I've got this model, and thought it was a lovely elegant solution. Very neat being infinitely variable between full rear steer, no rear steering and crabbing. I'm tempted to have a go myself one day, but seemed appropriate to share! Just a thought. SorryNotSorry for planting the seed of an idea
  7. Awesome, another Soren project Love your work - so free thinking and original. Looking forward to updates as it progresses. Are you staying V8? /Ian
  8. Bloody SIII - swivel play?

    Interesting piecing together some history, isn't it. Sounds like yours has seen quite some stuff! You'll get on top of it all one day soon, and it's a nice feeling when you do
  9. Bloody SIII - swivel play?

    Oh, and I asked about freewheeling hubs because the railko is splash lubricated by the UJ turning on the halfshaft. If they're not turning, there's no lube getting splashed up the top. FWH usual come with destructions telling you to engage them once a month to keep that railko lubricated, which is often overlooked or neglected.
  10. Bloody SIII - swivel play?

    Yep, the railko is at the top - it's a roller bearing at the bottom. Decent diagram here: http://www.lrparts.net/land-rover-series-2a-3-swivel-pin-housing-ball-drive-shaft-railko-bush-bottom-bearing-half-shaft-stub-shaft.html I'm afraid there's no "quick fix"... If it's knackered, it's knackered. There's no way to tighten lateral play as it's a plain cylindrical. The adjustment shims set the axial preload on the tapered roller bearing at the bottom, which explains why the movement is at the top. The preload also sets up some resistance, which damps oscillations in the steering if set correctly, assuming the railko isn't worn radially as in your case. If they're so bad you're getting wheel wobble, I'd set about getting that sorted as soon as. Keep the faith! One day soon you'll get on top of all the neglect from previous owners and be able to enjoy it! Good luck
  11. Bloody SIII - swivel play?

    If I'm understanding correct, this sounds like a worn railco bearing. Yep, it's probably causing the wheel wobble! They're not too hard to do, just pressed into the top of the swivel. You have to swap a few shims under the top pin to get the preload right, but the shim kits are cheap, and it's quite a nice little job. Do you have freewheeling hubs by any chance?
  12. Need a Product name for my newest product !

    How about Crown Lock?TM
  13. Tacho issues

    Hi Richard Something not quite adding up here. What voltage are you measuring and how? Are you trying to measure AC or DC at the coil>collector joint? Both are bound to give "odd" readings on a standard multimeter, and absolute values won't necessarily be that helpful. I'm a bit confused about your circuits too, when you were explaining about swapping the wire connection... That 2n2222, is that as well as another transistor outside the case? Or were you trying another transistor instead of that? Oh, and one last thing... (someone will get the reference, I'm sure ) does the relay cut in and out as revs rise and fall slightly? Does the tacho continue to work above idle too? I think you're pretty close
  14. Tacho issues

    Whatever you do, don't plug JS3 directly into a coil! You'll probably fry the processor, or at very least that output. The 2n2222a is there to do all the heavy lifting and should be more than up to the job unless you're using a whopping great coil. It's well chosen for a switching application and that circuit is fine, albeit lacking flyback protection, but we'll get to that later. The MS settings look fine, I think. I'd remove the mechanism from the relay as you did before, it may be moving into a position where it resonates and does funny things with the field.. I'm speculating there, but relays do odd things when asked to switch quickly. At a certain frequency they tend to "stick". It would be better to verify the electronic part is working with an LED and resistor, rather than listening for the relay. They're not designed to switch fast! I think what you're struggling with is getting a consistent voltage spike high enough to trigger that tacho - it seems to want quite a lot - not a configuration or electronic issue: I'd put money on that. Getting closer, though
  15. Tacho issues

    OK, thanks Richard. So what Quagmire suggests above *should* work. There are sometimes snubbing caps and suchlike inside relays to stop the coil making voltage spikes as we're actually looking for it to do - it really depends on the relay. I have played with the RVC type a little bit, and actually developed a circuit to drive an old Smiths 4cyl unit I found to fit in the dash of my V8 S3. I've got loads of boards left over, and it's only about a quids worth of components that goes into a circuit. A last resort, but you're more than welcome to add to your options list. I'm pretty sure Quagmire is leading you in the right direction though, so I won't muddy the waters. Might be worth trying a few different relays as they'll all have different characteristics is all I'd add. Good luck