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lo-fi last won the day on April 21

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About lo-fi

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  1. lo-fi

    Starting turning on an old lathe

    That's the way with a "dead" center. The alternative is a "live center" which has a bearing in it, so the pointy bit rotates with the work. Grab a set of center drills - a lathe essential. They're the correct tool for making the whole for a center as well as starting a hole for a twist drill. I can't figure out quite what inserts they are, I'll have a look around some charts. Edit: Still can't say for sure, you'll probably have to carefully measure a few angles, then have a look here: http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-insert-d.htm To figure out what holder, the biggest factor is probably the size shank the machine can take.
  2. lo-fi

    Downpipe studs

    Have you got the manifold on the bench? Can you weld? If so, the absolute best way is to chop the studs so a ~1/4" is left sticking out, then weld an oversize nut on the end getting as much heat into it as you can possibly manage. The end of the stud being half way inside the nut is perfect as it let's you pool weld in and get plenty of heat. Ideally the whole nut will be red hot. Leave to cool - if you try turning while hot it'll just shear - and turn back and forth. If you try just wrenching it out one way its bound to break. If you can't weld... Two nuts to form a lock nut, wind them up tight, heat the manifold with the most powerful torch you can muster and try the tighten/loosen/repeat trick. Short of that, it's the old cut off, drill and tap routine. They're not usually inclined to come loose without heat, if at all. Good luck!
  3. lo-fi

    V8 problems

    Pretty much. A bit of ezstart doesn't hurt, gets it firing which burns some of the schmoo off, puts a bit of heat into it and off she goes. All else being equal, of course. Bowie is right, some lifters may have drained. She may well be quite tappetty for a while. Good luck!
  4. lo-fi

    V8 problems

    Atf has detergents in it which can help clean the bores, valves and everything else that's covered in corrosion, sticky dried oil goo and suchlike. They'll run way worse than 50 psi down, so either the timing is wrong or its not getting the right amount of fuel if it really doesn't want to go. Plugs out, few drops of atf or diesel in the holes and get cranking it over. Pop the plugs back in and have another go.
  5. lo-fi

    V8 problems

    Run it, it'll pick up as everything seats and scrubs the crust off. Short of ripping it apart, that's about your only option. Not uncommon being recalcitrant after sitting a few years. Agreed on the atf if you have some.
  6. lo-fi

    LT 77 gear box and transfer box

    Nothing special needed to strip an LT230, just normal spanners stuff. You can certainly easily strip to assess whether there's much worth keeping. Given that they're cheap and plentiful, it's probably not worth rebuilding unless you've got spares on the shelf. The 77 does require a couple of special tools iirc, but have thumb through the manual
  7. Thanks chaps I've been tempted by those, I think my next (longer) set of earth leads will have them fitted.
  8. Got a few bits done over the past couple of days, just getting the support bush and fairlead sorted. I love machining Meehanite (cast iron bar with no hard spots or defects): There's also something immensely satisfying making a massive pile of lovely uniform chips. A lovely fit on the new bush. My phone died and I didn't take nearly enough pics: The carrier for that bush may look thin, but it's some kind of uber-tough 4140 or something. It gets supported by a rolled ring that will be welded itself. I didn't want the potential distortion in the actual bush carrier, so we'll see how it goes, I'm happy with it. Here it is on the lathe getting tacked nice and square: I don't like welding on the lathe, but sometimes it's the only way. Covering everything in WD40 and the bed with a piece of sheet steel seems to protect things nicely. Anyway, I had to stop to do the fairlead supports. If I weld all the gubbins in the middle I won't have a flat top I can clamp down to the bench while welderising various bits in. If it's not clamped down firmly, it'll distort, and having got this far and kept it flat, I really didn't want that. Plasma cutting going well with a new skookum earth lead. This is right on the limit of my machine: Finishing with the grinder: I kind of want a cast look, so not looking for perfection. Setting up to drill the locating holes: I hate drilling rectangular holes... Used the angle as a guide, which worked well: Setting up with locating dowels making sure it's all square: Captive nuts: In they go: A a bit of finishing to do, plus I need to machine up some ends for the roller, but I'm quite happy with that. Now I can complete the centre (and motor) support stuff, finish welding it, paint it and get it on the vehicle.
  9. If I'd gone ahead with my install I'd have had a water heater, helper pump and matrix on a circuit that could either be joined to the normal heater circuit or isotated from it. A two or three valve design would work. That way you get an extra heater matrix off the engine too, which is ideal for the rear of the vehicle.
  10. lo-fi

    Sump Gasket removal

    Is it one of the old cork gaskets? Sometimes crisping it with a plumbers torch can help shift it, but mind the fumes!
  11. lo-fi

    What IS causing this?

    Ah, good lad. Great little job to be tinkering with Lands on shafts usually OK in my experience, don't have the harsh life the external ones do unless the axle has been run full of mud.
  12. lo-fi

    What IS causing this?

    Filled up and no room for expansion? Quite plausible
  13. lo-fi

    What IS causing this?

    Isn't there supposedly a tiny hole somewhere that let's the swivel breathe into the axle? I very vaguely remember some discussion about such things I think... Was it maybe @Snagger?
  14. Beamish is a little far, sadly, but I'd like to plan a trip one year. Got a few bits done yesterday. cleaned and painted the motor: Started welding the motor mount tube: Check clearance with Plasticine. I'll machine a shim to suit, leaving 10 thou: Popped some Rivnuts in the plate. I really need an air driven tool: First view of it coming together: Weighs in at ~50KG with plate, bollard, motor, gearbox and plate. A little preview of early testing:
  15. Put some new ones in, you'll thank yourself next time you come to take it apart. Either the new studs and brass nuts, or stainless and assemble with milk of magnesia (yes, the stuff you get off the shelf in a pharmacy) as an anti seize. It's quite incredible how good a high temp anti seize compound it is, particularly on stainless! I've been using for years now, and I'm still surprised by how easily my exhaust fasteners come apart. Was a tip from a turbine engineer.

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