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lo-fi

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lo-fi last won the day on August 13

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About lo-fi

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    Hampshire

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  1. In these kind of temps you'll only need a smidge of choke when the engine is cold, if its set up correctly otherwise. Full out will definitely be too much. If you can get it set up to run nicely hot you can't be too far off, but often having to wind the idle mixture right in means there's a little leak somewhere. Does it drive nicely now?
  2. Loose water pump pulley bolts can cause something like that, so check they're tight.
  3. No, think it through... If you were to set TDC and rotate the crank counter clockwise five degrees, you'd be five degrees before TDC. The TDC marker on the pulley would be to the left of the fixed pointer.
  4. You may have to resort to heat and a press if you're satisfied you've got the fasteners removed. Do you have a parts book with a diagram for it so you can double check?
  5. Thanks, it was a really fun little project. There will be more like that as I get further into it, it saves so much time and gets great repeatable results having a dedicated tool. It was cheap to make too
  6. If you do drive it with the hose disconnected, be very, very gentle. Without any back-pressure to work against, the turbo will overspeed quite quickly, causing all sorts of damage that may or may not immediately be apparent. Checking a turbo is quite easy: take the hose off the front, grab the end of the shaft with finger and thumb and give if a wiggle. A little movement radially is quire normal, so long as its not enough that you can get it to contact the housing. There should be almost no detectable axial movement. The problem with oil leaking by is rarely the seals themselves, more that there's too much play in the shaft and they can't then do their job properly. It's a much safer way to check.
  7. Lovely!! I'm slightly jealous, despite having finished my hydraulic capstan build. How's the carb investigation going, or has rain stopped play?
  8. Its just cold rolled blocks very carefully marked up, drilled, tapped and held together with high tensile bolts. The bottom die got drilled through, then the middle section milled out exposing part of the hole. A piece of rod fills the space, leaving about a third of it exposed to create the shape in the part. The top die has a corresponding semi circular groove milled in it.
  9. Yes, I'm afraid it's important. Its job is to regulate a valve which governs where the fluid sits inside the coupling. Sadly, it won't work properly without it.
  10. Would be a good test, it'll tell you quite a lot. Remind me what carb you're running?
  11. Cheers fella YouTube channel of the steam loco project on its way - I'll send you a link. On a bit of a learning curve directing, shooting, presenting and editing, but I'll get there soon enough.
  12. If you're doing another local(ish) one like Bunny Lane, I'll definitely be there! Had a blast last time.
  13. It's finished and IT VERKS!! If anyone is interested, I've edited a load of stills and footage together into a YouTube: Still got a bunch of testing and refinement of the hydraulics to do, but I'm pretty happy with it so far.
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