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lo-fi last won the day on December 9 2019

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  1. Both my sankeys have breakaway cables that pull the hand brake on just like any other trailer. It's a very easy retro fit - I don't understand why more people don't do it. Details if anyone wants them.
  2. Before looking too hard at shocks, what parabolic are you running and how many leafs on the rear? Regardless - and particularly if you've ended up with the firmer springs with more leafs - they ride much, much better loaded, so might be worth throwing a bit of weight in right at the back. Just takes bite out of it.
  3. No, that would be pointless. If they look outboard, there's an optical illusion going on - have a look over the drawings again. I don't think this one is tractable, there is literally no way to do it that'll provide a satisfactory result in terms of steering geometry or without resorting to nasty bodges like chopping the arms and welding. Interesting discussion, but the Haystee conversion kit is probably the best way to go.
  4. I have to apologise, for some reason I thought the coiler swivels had bolt on arms like the series. Ignore my idea about swapping left to right, it won't help.
  5. It's simple: robots are better at all of it. More consistent, don't go on strike, don't take holiday and don't have awkward union reps. There's a break point in volume where automating all of it doesn't make sense, and that's probably the point the G Wagon falls into. Plus it gives the marketing department something to shout about. If you genuinely hand build something in the traditional sense, you'd better be charging a lot of money for it. Otherwise you end up with a Land Rover. As far as people who are only good at manual labour go and their future employment prospects: Un
  6. For me, welding steering components is a red line never to cross. You have no idea what metal they are, and then have no way to guarantee a good joint that won't fail at a bad moment. "it looked like a good weld, your honour" is absolutely not good enough here. I won't even weld tubes, let alone cast arms. And that's before even considering the legal aspect.
  7. What I was pondering about - without having messed with the boingy setup myself - was swapping the left arm to the right and vice versa, giving TRE spacing outboard as on the series for the correct Ackerman setup with track rod in front. Or something close, at least. Clearance issue not withstanding, and hypothetical as a point of discussion.
  8. That's it. In theory that should give steering geometry that isn't a disaster and the Steve Parker kit neatly solves the steering link. Assuming it's mechanical possible to do the switcheroo, it may be a contender. I've never messed with coiler axles - hopefully someone else can fill in that detail.
  9. For sure. My measurements are approximate, but hit the geometry right where it was expected to be, give or take. Now... Purely as a point of discussion: is it possible to mount the defender arms facing forwards, but swapped left to right and use the longer series track rod? I know it's possible on a Series, not that you'd want to ordinarily. Arrangements for the drop arm from the steering box would need to be looked at. Possible clearance issues again - I'm just throwing the idea up.
  10. Intelligent, informed discussion is what makes this forum so good
  11. I still don't think you're quite grasping this. I did some rough measuring of a Series setup, extrapolated to the Defender setup, and finally mocked up the reverse setup. The dashed lines represent how the wheels steer in a turn. Hopefully this makes things a little clearer? I not only for you, but for people who will no-doubt read the thread in the future when exploring the same ideas.
  12. Probably neither. The wiki shows a very crude approximation. The imaginary point where the lines meet could be ahead or behind the rear axle, and it's up to the designer to choose the angles to suit the application. Or if you draw the lines from the centre of the rear axle, they won't cross directly through the kingpin pivot point - depends how you want to look at it. It's never perfect over the full range of steering travel anyway, so there's leeway for adjusting it to suit where the designer wants the most correct effect and to tune the handling.
  13. Do you actually understand the Ackerman principal? That the inner wheel needs to steer at a greater angle than the outer? It's nothing to do with the castor angle and is achieved by offsetting the pivot point on the steering arm laterally in relation to the steering rotation point. The offset needs to go the opposite way if the track rod is mounted fore or aft of the wheels, and herein lies the problem Snagger is describing. Reverse Ackerman is exactly what it says on the tin: the inner wheel will steer less than the outer. This does not aim the wheels in the arcs that the wheels need to
  14. Ashcroft will tell you that some of the cheaper gears available haven't had the teeth "crowned" and will be noisy. I suspect that may be the case here. Find a section on this in this page: https://khkgears.net/new/gear_knowledge/gear_technical_reference/involute_gear_profile.html The "used" gear may well have worn oddly and possibly be the source of the noise too.
  15. Ah, damn that silicone! I have to admit, I've messed about with a few holders in the landy and the tape has been the best I've come up with without drilling holes in stuff.
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