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lo-fi last won the day on December 9 2019

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About lo-fi

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  1. No. That's a myth perpetuated by those who claim there's nothing wrong with cheap parts, continue to buy rubbish and drive the entire parts supply chain into the ground. Lift pumps seem, for some reason, to be notorious for failing lately. However, my own experience recently has been that lift pumps have failed in installs or conversions that are "less than ideal". Restricted return line, or no return at all, for example. To be honest, I'm no fan of mechanical lift pumps anyway. A good electric pump is a far better solution. I mean, you're attaching a fixed displacement pump with a rubber diaphragm and no pressure regulator to a power source that wildly varies in rpm and demand independently? Good luck with that... Been a year or two since I bought a master cylinder, but the Bearmach ones I've got seemed decent and have lasted. What's happened?
  2. If you fancy a small die grinder job that will make a nice difference, grab a gasket do some port matching between head and manifolds. I'm in the "leave everything else be" camp too otherwise.
  3. I've been caught out so many times that way myself... Just ease them up gently and evenly, they're quite robust as long as you're careful. Rotate and pinch works too, but put one end over the other to keep it all stable and ease the pressure and go easy. You'll soon get a feel for it. If you don't have already, I highly recommend a set of ring pliers BTW
  4. That's my working theory, yes. Turners have a great reputation, but even the best technician is not 100% infallible. Modern rings are usually pretty good, but it absolutely needs checking and adjusting. The ring manufacturer doesn't know exactly what the bore sizes are going to come out at or how much a hone will take off, so it's impossible to make a ring that's guaranteed to fit straight out of the box with the correct gap. Too short and blow by will be excessive; too long and they'll bind. Better to have a little extra which can be trimmed to get it spot on during the build, so out if the box they're usually on the tighter side of the spec. Worth remembering that a single thousandths change in diameter makes Pi times that change in circumference. Regardless of what has or hasn't gone on before, I hadn't seen ring gap mentioned in the thread, so thought best to bring up before you put the fresh ones in.
  5. The ring gap is far more important than the clearance in the groove. The damage on number 2 and your description are consistent with rings being fitted, not gapped correctly and lacking sufficient clearance. That clearance is vital when they heat and expand, or they deform, bind up, scuff the bore and damage the ring grooves, all of which can be seen on your cylinder 2. Some rings come "pre gapped", but not something I'd trust to luck. Shows the process nicely:
  6. Ah, I mean the gap between the ends of the rings when installed.
  7. Forgive me if I've missed it, but did you check the ring gaps on number 2?
  8. Lovely, should be smashing with a VFD driving it. I need a lathe that size in my life...
  9. It's nearly three months worth of disposable income to pay for a new one, so 1.5 days so far, plus maybe that again to finish isn't too bad at all Just got to have at it and "getter done", as Keith Fenner would say.
  10. Well, it came back with a few more holes in the than when it left... No great surprise. I've got to figure out how best to fill them now. I think I might cut the top rails off between the curves, poke a block of copper on a stick down t'hole to use as a backing pieces and weld the holes up. They'll be easy enough to dress back on the outside and weld back into place. Other bits are just bits of flat plate, so I'll probably end up just lopping out large patches and welding new in. It's obvious now that the drivers side pillar has been replaced badly, so that's coming out. I'll have to make up some kind of jig to locate the window hinge plates as I'll end up taking them off to replace the entire corner pieces. "It's only a bit of tin". Onwards and forwards. I am somewhat disappointed that they clearly didn't treat it with a lot of respect. Both of the remaining pieces of footwell have been bent and crudely bent back. Not impressed with that, it's not like it would have taken a lot to not bend them. Don't think I'll be going back.
  11. They're just supposed to "match" the track of a landy, but no difference or reason you can't tow one behind the other otherwise. The wide track has a nice tailgate and hydraulic damped hitch, which is nice, but either tow well. I made a flat bed with drop sides for my narrow track and a little frame to put a canvas over. It has side bars too now and the canvas sits rather nicely. That's just an original sankey cover, but you could easily make a frame to take a landy canvas. The chap that made that cover does all kinds of clever stuff with canvas.
  12. That's disappointing... Especially given how much they charge!
  13. lo-fi

    Piston broke

    The intake oil may be a red herring and nothing to do with the piston damage. Very difficult to say with Britpart piston in the equation. There's something else to look at, though: the turbo. A seriously worn turbo won't have the same efficiency as a newly minted unit. With turbo machinery, this equates to more heat produced for a given pressure rise. This is a 19J, right? It's marginal thermally for several reasons: firstly, it has high compression for a turbo engine. Land Rover being the lazy, feckless swines they were, just bolted a turbo to the 12J NA. The 200tdi is a couple of points lower, bringing it into line with turbo diesels of that era, to give some frame of reference. Secondly, it's not intercooled. Any heat the turbo makes goes straight to the engine. Another penny pinching face-palm.Thirdly, I think I recall correctly that it lacks oil squirters for the pistons. Add all of this up, and you'll see where I'm going... Throw in some marginal pistons in, and I'm not at all surprised they melted. Once you've rebuilt it, you'll really do it a favour by adding an intercooler. I'll be following the rebuild
  14. Carb cleaner and elbow grease is pretty good. Or send it out to an engine shop for a bath, it's not expensive and will come back nicely clean. Anything caustic on ali is a no-go. Dishwasher tabs eat it for breakfast! Ask me how I know...
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