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lo-fi

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lo-fi last won the day on May 11

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About lo-fi

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    Hampshire

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  1. This^ just requires a little reading. Congrats on a successful install, by the way. I think he means a stock ECU
  2. Electric fuel pump for V8 on carbs

    I've had my silver top in the same setup for four years and still going strong, though I'm not running a filter ahead of it. I suspect the filter may have caused your failure, I'm sure I remember an app note saying not to do that. You could have just been unlucky, of course. No problem running the regulator though, they're designed to be run that way.
  3. Does the charge light on the dash show with ignition on but engine not running? This sounds like a case of no power to the stator windings... Can you test the voltage of the wire from the light where it attaches to the alternator? If that circuit isn't working you won't get anything out of the alternator - I suspect a broken connection or wire upon removal and its not something you mentioned testing. It's not just a telltale Ian
  4. As a Gazza says, if you broke the steel line it was well past it anyway. Just pull the drivers side floor panel up, you can get to the rest easily enough without taking anything off. Steel requires quite a flaring tool, so tricky to put a joiner on, and you're better off knowing the line isn't going to fracture somewhere at the worst moment!
  5. Steering judder

    Does it move freely with engine off and no assistance?
  6. Cheap Chinese stereo heads

    Easy when you know what you're searching for Glad the post helped someone!
  7. I never used auto tune at all, just got a mate to drive sensibly, watched the wideband and played with the map as we went. Gives you a good feel for what the engine is doing and how its reacting and gives a chance to change timing on the fly. Saves the temptation to "play" or peek at it while driving too Even better is time on a steady state dyno, but a bit beyond most DIYers unless you've got a local shop happy to let you play for an hour or two for beer money. Some long, steep hills can be a good substitute.
  8. That looks like it ought to be pretty safe and much better overall. The critical parts are low RPM, high load, and the high load line in general as far as risk of serious detonation and engine damage go. Your AFR targets are pretty sensible, so just take it easy and keep an ear out for "tinkling" sounds a little like gravel being thrown up off the tyres and hitting the footwells. Don't panic if you do get a little pinging, it's not going to nuke itself unless you keep hammering it. Just back off, retard the timing a bit in that area, check it wasn't going crazy lean and try again. Keep us posted
  9. Congrats on getting it running, but that's a dreadful spark table. Before you go tuning, get that sorted. First place to start is the max load line. Think of this as mechanical advance on a dizzy: You'd set timing with a dizzy with vac advance disconnected at maybe five degrees BTDC, right? So that's what goes on the low RPM area. Beyond that, the weights in the distributor would be advancing timing up to just before peak torque, probably up to high 20's in this case. Ideally, you want to keep timing fixed as you pass through peak torque, then advance slowly a couple more degrees as RPM continues to climb to redline. Then we need to look at the vac advance, which is what fills the rest of the table. The vac advance advances the timing with increasing vacuum (throttle closing). Ignore the stupid ported vacuum connections upstream of the throttle plate on later carb models, the proper way is to consider manifold vacuum. So, you've got your baseline "mechanical advance" in the 100kpa line, and we know that "vacuum advance" adds to that as manifold vacuum builds. Typical vac advance could be ten or fifteen degrees, so take your 100kpa values, add ten to them, paste into the 20kpa bins. Interpolate between the two lines through the rest of the map. EFI allows you to be much more creative, so you can build advance (which is the key to power on these old 2 valve engines) in places on the map you'd be struggling to hit with a dizzy. The ~60kpa/~2200rpm area is one place you might like to experiment adding a bit more advance in beyond the linear "flat" map. The golden rule is no sudden changes, keep it smooth between the bins. You'll want to get this right before tuning fuel as the timing will affect AFR. The timing map you've got there will give poor efficiency, power and throttle response. A useful calculator can be found here: http://www.useasydocs.com/theory/spktable.htm Output looks like this: Probably a bit much for your engine at the top end, and peak torque in the wrong place so not ideal values for you, but you get the idea. HTH Ian
  10. Cheap Chinese stereo heads

    What Bowie said plus a cheap Bluetooth A2DP module to put on the end of the 3.5mm jack. Ain't nobody got time for plugging stuff in
  11. Torque Wrench Calibration

    Anyone use and have any comments on the old school bendy beam type, rather than modern clicky jobbies?
  12. Look what I brought home last night ..

    They look lovely. Keep the updates coming
  13. Sounds like you're close! First things first, though: if it's popping and banging it's running lean, the timing is way out or both. Any kind of idle valve isn't going to help with that, so forget that for the moment. There's no shame in dialing up a bit of extra throttle stop or bypass to get it idling - even if a little fast - to give you time to verify timing, play with the map and get comfortable. There's a "fixed timing" setting you can use to ignore the timing map which is dead handy for this. Set it to maybe five degree before tdc, start up, get it warm, play with the fuel until it's ticking over nicely. Double check the timing and adjust if necessary. Once you've done that, you can think about going back to dynamic timing and tuning on some no load areas. Let us know how you get on Could you post screen shots of your maps? There are some truly clueless maps about - particularly timing - so would be good to cast an eye over and see that you're running something sensible.
  14. 6cyl SWB?

    That's good news! Like Bowie, also enjoying the thread
  15. 6cyl SWB?

    You need a much longer front prop to reach the LT230, as the extension piece carrying the front output is much shorter, despite it being quite a bit longer between the main box and the rear output flange. This causes problems with the front prop fouling the crossmember under the bellhousing, usually solved by taking a chunk out and putting a plate in to 'scallop' it to clear the prop. Ugly but effective. To answer your question about the conversion kit and the auto box: It depends. Yes, it should bolt up in theory following that logic, but... The input gear on the series box is supported by the output bearing of the main box - the main box obviously having been built with this on mind. The LT230 (and I'm sure the same must be true for the BW) has a fully supported input gear riding on bearings inside the transfer box. The main box simply has a splined shaft which fits into the input gear and sees none of the radial or axial load imposed by the transfer input gear. Ashcroft have clearly decided that the LT77 and R380 are strong enough to cope with the load on the output bearing with whatever arrangements they have in the series adaptor. Whether the same is true for the auto box, I don't know. I'd email in a question to Ashcroft and see what they say before making any plans.
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