Jump to content

lo-fi

Settled In
  • Content Count

    830
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    18

Everything posted by lo-fi

  1. Loose water pump pulley bolts can cause something like that, so check they're tight.
  2. No, think it through... If you were to set TDC and rotate the crank counter clockwise five degrees, you'd be five degrees before TDC. The TDC marker on the pulley would be to the left of the fixed pointer.
  3. You may have to resort to heat and a press if you're satisfied you've got the fasteners removed. Do you have a parts book with a diagram for it so you can double check?
  4. Thanks, it was a really fun little project. There will be more like that as I get further into it, it saves so much time and gets great repeatable results having a dedicated tool. It was cheap to make too
  5. If you do drive it with the hose disconnected, be very, very gentle. Without any back-pressure to work against, the turbo will overspeed quite quickly, causing all sorts of damage that may or may not immediately be apparent. Checking a turbo is quite easy: take the hose off the front, grab the end of the shaft with finger and thumb and give if a wiggle. A little movement radially is quire normal, so long as its not enough that you can get it to contact the housing. There should be almost no detectable axial movement. The problem with oil leaking by is rarely the seals themselves, more that there's too much play in the shaft and they can't then do their job properly. It's a much safer way to check.
  6. Lovely!! I'm slightly jealous, despite having finished my hydraulic capstan build. How's the carb investigation going, or has rain stopped play?
  7. Its just cold rolled blocks very carefully marked up, drilled, tapped and held together with high tensile bolts. The bottom die got drilled through, then the middle section milled out exposing part of the hole. A piece of rod fills the space, leaving about a third of it exposed to create the shape in the part. The top die has a corresponding semi circular groove milled in it.
  8. Yes, I'm afraid it's important. Its job is to regulate a valve which governs where the fluid sits inside the coupling. Sadly, it won't work properly without it.
  9. Would be a good test, it'll tell you quite a lot. Remind me what carb you're running?
  10. Cheers fella YouTube channel of the steam loco project on its way - I'll send you a link. On a bit of a learning curve directing, shooting, presenting and editing, but I'll get there soon enough.
  11. If you're doing another local(ish) one like Bunny Lane, I'll definitely be there! Had a blast last time.
  12. It's finished and IT VERKS!! If anyone is interested, I've edited a load of stills and footage together into a YouTube: Still got a bunch of testing and refinement of the hydraulics to do, but I'm pretty happy with it so far.
  13. lo-fi

    Throttle bodies

    Apologies, I lost track of where the original post started from as we'd been talking TBI with the 'universal' jobbies Bowie posted at VWSpeedshop most lately. Understand your comment about individual throttle bodies with reference to the Jenvey ones now! The universal TB looks like it's got the injector downstream of the throttle plate, but agreed its hard to tell for sure. Exactly what Tom did on his Essex V6 controlled by Speeduino. I'll ask him what TB he's running.
  14. Does it stop hunting with the choke out?
  15. Hunting - all other things being equal - is usually because its lean, so yes, the float height could be having an impact. Could also be an air leak, so waft a bit of carb cleaner around anywhere there's a gasket or connection on the intake side to make sure you've not got anything leaking past. The revs will change if carb cleaner gets pulled in through a leak.
  16. lo-fi

    Throttle bodies

    Ah, this is a single point injection throttle body, so mounts on the manifold like a carb with a single injector. Saves having to faff about with mounting injectors in a manifold not set up for it. Agreed individual are the opposite of what you want in a Land Rover!
  17. Not meaning to sound negative... I'd have a pair of 4.7 diffs and gaskets on-hand, painted up and ready to go.
  18. They're easy enough to take apart and roll the numbers around to match your existing one. I've literally just done that this eve with a Smiths unit I've been given to match my Smiths rev counter. I had to change a broken speedo on my old RX7 and ended up with one that had far fewer miles on it. Went through MOT which records the mileage and nobody batted an eyelid that it had gone down since the last. But who knows what goes on at the DVLA... I'd keep a clear record either way.
  19. lo-fi

    Throttle bodies

    Absolutely. It would be quite a fun project.
  20. Yeah, they're the CV type with the moving needle and dashpot. A bit different in construction to the Strombergs as the piston moves up and down in a cylinder with some kind of o-ring seal rather than a diaphragm at the top, but same principal.
  21. Sounds like you've got your culprit and found the air leak. Brake cleaner does the job fine. No need for any schmoo, if you can fit one of the newer style composite gaskets - they seal better than the tin ones anyway. The tin gasket does call for a smear of something; maybe Hylomar. Silicone is worse than nothing at all as fuel makes it swell and disintegrate. Timing has quite an effect on how effectively the mixture is burned. You should be testing with the vacuum advance disconnected, so once reconnected it brings the timing up to that sweet spot assuming the take off point in the carb is in the correct place (but that's for another discussion another time). Too far can increase CO emissions. Leave the timing by the book for the moment and tweak later. Get that air leak sorted and you'll have a much easier time with everything. Definitely reset the carbs and rebalance. Have you found the "lifting the plunger" trick to check the mixture for each carb? I'll find you a link if not.
  22. Thanks Steve, that's a great suggestion. I'll make some calls tomorrow and update the thread as things progress. Yep, trying to do it all properly. Enough cowboy parts around in the Land Rover world, so actual quality is a unique selling point. SimonR is a bit of an inspiration. I'll be very happy if I can be half as successful! Some bits I've been working on, if anyone is interested:
  23. Thanks chaps. I think I'll probably need coding for the various joint types and positions I'll be using, but I'll have a chat with a few training places and my insurance company, see what the guidance is for what I'm doing. Having seen the quality of some bits and pieces on the market I do wonder whether I'm over thinking it, but I'd like to be turning out quality pieces and have the proper boxes ticked to back it up for my own peace of mind. This is all MIG stuff, but I'd like to do a small TIG course just for myself. That bcot course looks quite tempting!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy