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Everything posted by lo-fi

  1. lo-fi

    Advice required on selling a Series

    Yep, somebody will love it. Either to finish putting it back together as is and enjoy it, or start sourcing the "correct" 2a bits and get all rivet counter - I suspect the former. Either way it would be a shame to break a solid series and it's far less hassle for you!
  2. I used the usual argoshield co2/argon mix for mig, which seemed OK, or certainly acceptable for an exhaust. The same with TIG.... Not so much
  3. I've made several with a mig welder and stainless tubes, bends, clamps and suchlike from here: https://exhaustpartsuk.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=88 Get yourself some stainless mig wire too. It'll want more power than mild, and you'll need to travel faster to avoid blowing holes, but it's quite possible to get some really nice beads on butt welds with a bit of practice.
  4. lo-fi

    "Help, my diff is making a funny noise"

    That'll buff out. Bit of WD40 and some wire wool...
  5. Poor old girl. She'll be better for having fresh bearings that aren't lubricated with mud! I suspect it's the clip that holds the splined collar axially. Good pics here: https://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-land-rovers/252161-selectro-freewheel-hub-assembly.html
  6. lo-fi

    Thermostats that last??

    I replaced the unknown one on my V8 with a Gates one. Gates stuff is usually really good, but three months on she now takes ages to warm up if moving and the temp hunts. I've just bought genuine which is marked as Waxstat. I'll change shortly and report back.
  7. https://www.lrukforums.com/threads/selectro-free-wheel-hubs-dont-work.104760/ That thread covers the same problem, removal and has the instructions attached as pdf. Pull the split pin and castle nut and they'll come straight off.
  8. Nice, sounds like it's the hubs. Double check what half shafts you've got before buying anything. Should be 24 spline rather than 10, but you never know if it's been swapped out by a previous owner. Drive flanges are available as pairs, felts etc. are all available. Castle nuts and washers can be re-used unless they've been frackulated - might save a few pennies. Post some pics of the hubs if you get stuck removing. Glad you found the YouTube helpful!
  9. Quick video to help you out:
  10. OK, so the problem is definitely with the axle not the gearbox. Yes, one broken or not properly engaging FWH will cause those symptoms. As will a broken half shaft. Next steps: Remove the FWHs. It should be pretty obvious if they're seized or broken. Rotate the end of a half shaft. The other end should rotate the opposite way or the prop flange should rotate. If not, you've likely got a broken half shaft or UJ. Before getting too far in with anything else, have a look at the hubs though - they're the most likely culprit.
  11. lo-fi

    Total Parts out of business?

    Also my favoured supplier. No blue boxes! I'd be gutted if they have shut up shop.
  12. Yep. Bowie69's steps detailed above will help diagnose exactly what's wrong. As Fridge said, it may well just be a FWH that's not engaged properly. They're usually pushed into engagement with spring pressure so that the splines or teeth mesh when they first line up. Otherwise you'd be having to faff rolling back and forward or turning the prop to get everything to line up as you turn the knob. This does mean that if they are partially seized inside, the spring might not be enough to push into full engagement even if they feel like they're positively clicked into 4wd mode. Because of the differential, either one failing will lead to loss of drive. Good luck and thanks for reporting back for future readers
  13. As said above, if the prop is spinning and its going nowhere you have a problem in the axle not the transfer box. This may well be causing the noise. Broken diff, broken half shaft or broken FWH are what you're looking for. I'd start with the hubs, though.
  14. Way off topic and posted entirely for topical amusement. Hope it's not too far left field. I give you... The Oxford Allen snow plough! I believe they sold one for it, or somebody used to make one. Either way, it makes short work of keeping the drive passable for 2wd euroboxes. Fabricobbling something up for the 109 seemed like overkill. Stay safe! VID-20190201-WA0043.mp4
  15. Cheers I love these old machines, I have a 4 stroke too. I found this one didn't want to go having been sat since the summer, but just wanted the corrosion cleared off the points and away she went. I think they suffer from the points only closing during a very small part of crank rotation, so chances are they'll always stop open and furr up. I have a feeling dirty points (and decaying coils) are the cause of many words of rage over the years! Was a fun little project.
  16. lo-fi

    LT77 Stuck in reverse

    I'd hazard a guess that something has gone awry with the interlock spools. I believe that's something you can look at without removing the box. Hopefully somebody with direct experience will chime in and confirm, though. Related problem talked about here:
  17. Why not choose an in tank pump that fits through t'hole, then cut and shut the series sender top onto it? Pipe cut then braze would leave no swarf inside and make a solid joint. Might just need a little adaptor turned up. Or there are aftermarket pumps that take an AN fitting that might suit. Again, braze an adaptor on the series sender.
  18. lo-fi

    Series overland revival

    She's lovely! Exactly the spec as my late 2a that's in pieces fixing the lack of love it was given for the past twenty years. Great to see a leafer stretching it's legs properly, especially a six pot. As Arjan says: more pics and write up please!
  19. lo-fi

    LT230 transfer case upside down

    Yep, the hole in the middle of the input gear runs right through so the splines are accessible from either side. You'll just need a slightly longer input shaft, but as you're doing a divorced setup that won't be a problem.
  20. lo-fi

    123 ignition for 2.25

    Look at the difference in advance between 85 and 90, then add that to the figures for 90 should get you in the ballpark
  21. lo-fi

    300Tdi starter motor replacement brushes

    Fair comment, but if it gets to 250C where most solder melts you've probably got bigger problems... A fair few old starters I've tinkered with do have solder joints from factory, but spot welding is probably easier and more reliable for manufacture.
  22. lo-fi

    300Tdi starter motor replacement brushes

    Clip the old braids off just after where they're spot welded, leaving a few mm. Solder the end of the braids on the new brushes to the ends you've left on the contacts and call it job done It'll need a hefty soldering iron and plenty of flux, though.
  23. lo-fi

    Wheel or Swivel bearing woes

    Possible the bearing track wasn't quite seated and has settled after having weight on it. Similarly the railco if its been changed - they're horrid things to press in. Did the railco thrust washer go back in too?
  24. lo-fi

    The "Pass the Bucket" 4x4 For Sale on Ebay Thread

    I quite like it! Registration bodgery and price aside...
  25. That makes sense; I'd not really thought about it that way. I'm guessing they're using aero style cold worked alloy rivets, though? I think what we can see on that chassis are old school hot rivets!

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