Dave64

Thank You. Dave

Hi All, Came across a bit of an abnormality with this TDI 200 engine (ex Disco) where there seems to be a fair pressure build up in the return line from the top of the pump back to the tank. Enough to cause a fuel leak at the fittings. You can remove the return hose from the tank end and drain it into a container and no probs. You can also put a bit of hose on the return line where it goes back into the tank and it will blow through alright, so doesn't appear to be any obstruction. The tank is off a Mazda E3000 Diesel which has a NON vented screw type cap with a rubber seal. There is an additional vent line built into the tank which has a small nylon sliding ball in it, which is some sort of safety device to stop fuel escaping in case of a roll-over. Funny thing is, when the tank only had about two inches of fuel in it, didn't leak. Filled the tank to about halfway up and I'm surmising that the extra weight of fuel is stopping the return line from operating correctly. I've had the fuel sender out to fit a new one and shown a torch in, the return line is roughly the same height above the bottom of the tank as the pick up line. Wondering if it may be a combination of the original Range Rover fuel tank return fuel line just vented straight into the TOP of the tank and also the original may have had a vented cap. Often seen tanks where an excess fuel line returns to the filler neck and then returns to mix with the cooler fuel. I don't run it for very long the way it is. I did notice last time I started the engine that it seemed a bit "smoky" at idle. If the return fuel line is not doing it's job as it was designed, could be building up TOO much pressure at the engine? I was going to try swapping the lines for the return line and the vent line so the fuel returns straight to the top and leave the cap off so it vents to the atmosphere. As it's not yet on the road, can tinker a bit, but obviously have to have some sort of vent into a charcoal canister affair for eventual registration. Any thoughts? ALSO, have a boost gauge coming, 0-30 psi, and already have a bung in the fitting halfway along the INLET manifold. Someone told me that they run around 10-14psi, increases slightly under load?? Pyrometer would be nice but will be some time before I get around to the exhaust, currently drops straight down with a 90* elbow, 2&3/4". Normally, where would the pyro be fitted i.e. just how close to the turbo outlet flange?? Thanks again, Dave

Great! Thanks again.

Hi, just a quick question what sort of pressure (psi) should a power steering pump off a 200TDI Discovery produce? Seems to be a few variations depending on just which forum you look under. Have read that "normal operating pressure" for a pump should be around the 1000-1100 psi range, yet read elsewhere that around 1400 psi would also be considered "normal". My manual doesn't give any rating, in fact it tells you that they are virtually a "throw away" unit and should be left to a L/R specialist. Thanks, Dave64

Couple of photos, one with the power steering pump in original position, second is with the idler pulley I jammed on there so I could start the engine with the water pump spinning. Just sit the original L/R radiator there when I want to run it. I moved the alternator to the other side as I wanted a bit of space between the near side of the engine and chassis rail to stand the original air cleaner upright. That idler pulley that tensions the alternator, think it may have come off a Defender? Doesn't matter, it works anyway. Reason for the Spicer blue paint is I somehow ended up with a carton of spray cans of it, so as soon as I install something and am happy with it, I paint it so I know I don't have (or shouldn't have) to go back to it. Photos in reverse order, but you'll sort it out Cheers, Dave64

Thanks Men! Will post a few photos in a day or so. Dave64

Hi again Guys, think I may have this finally sorted out. Reckon I should have been looking up posts on the DEFENDER forum, as well as the DISCOVERY. Seems almost certain that the engine is from an Australian release 1991 or 1992 DISCOVERY, has the 12L stamped on the block. Where I've been going wrong ordering bits and pieces, be they used or new, is getting hung up on the "12L" which seems to have been dedicated to the Discovery. Because I only ever had the engine and a box of brackets, pulleys, hoses and other stock, it took a bit of headscratching to make sure it was going together as it should. And, of course, I compounded things by swapping the alternator to the other side of the block, used a few pieces off a DEFENDER just to confuse everybody including myself. I have a Haynes book here to suit 1989 to 1998 Discovery, sketchy to say the least when it comes to things like vee belt, pulley set up etc. Probably have to try and get hold of a DEFENDER vee belt and drive diagram or photo because it looks like a lot of the brackets, pulleys etc are not only placed in different positions on the 200TDI, but also the part numbers are naturally different. Well, been an interesting exercise, had me wondering just what I had taken on. Engine will live again eventually, but the rest of the original Discovery has probably been made into cutlery and on it's way back from China. Cheers, Dave64

Thanks for the link! Dave64

Snagger/western, Thanks for that. I must admit that until I inherited this engine (200TDI 12L ex Discovery(?), )knew absolutely zilch about the product, but thanks to many helpful replies (and learning how to trawl the different forums) have picked up some valuable knowledge/tips. Not sure if I am posting to the correct sub-section on the forum' though. My particular project is using the above mentioned engine ONLY, have adapted a different transmission into a different vehicle, NOT a L/R or R/R, so am interested mainly in matters relating to that particular motive unit. First project vehicle, way back in late sixties was installing a Perkins 4/99 diesel into a light truck. Over the years (too many to count!) have tinkered on and off with quite a few different vehicles, but not Rover products. Since then, spent most of my working life , now retired, either driving interstate trucks and/or earthmoving, even had my own truck for a while, which economics dictated I did quite a bit of my own work. But, as I said, until I started this latest project, had little to do with this product. Just as an aside, have been comparing different posts relating to the various Land Rover diesel engines and it would seem to me that prior to electronic and/ or computer controlled units, the 200 12L engine seems to have pretty good reports about it. Still have a bit of trouble coming to terms with the RPM of these smaller modern diesels. Suppose it's simply that having driven trucks on and off most of my life, 2100 RPM was the norm many years ago, around the 1500-1700 RPM is the go these days. Even my own private vehicle redlines at around the 4000 mark, had it for ten years and STILL can't get used to revving it over 3000! Although in saying that, give it a spurt every now and then just to blow the cobwebs out and stop it sooting up! Just reading some earlier posts, have found guys, like you blokes, have been very helpful to not only myself, but a myriad of others, so on behalf of all of us, thanks. For an engine that has been around for what? getting close to 30 years now?, seems to still be most parts available, over here we may have to hunt a bit for them, but quite often I have made inquiries in your part of the world, can see that even major components are not "unobtanium". Cheers, Dave64

Thank You

Snagger, western, thanks very much for your replies and also the diagram, all sorted now. I readily admit to being a complete novice with google, found that simply entering the topic and adding "lr4X4" took me to a whole new reference library. So, found many answers to everyday questions, makes it not only so much simpler, but won't be clogging up the forums with inane queries. Much appreciated, Cheers Dave64

Thanks! Dave64

Apologies for banging on about this, but reading replies as well as doing a basic search, came across two different numbers for a TRIPLE groove pulley. Earlier posts and references point to part# ERC6859, yet they are also referred to on fleabay as part# ERR3093. Hate to have ordered the wrong one!. May be something simple like the part numbers have been upgraded, not unheard of, or perhaps the first number, 6859 relates to the combination damper/pulleys and the second ,3093, relates to ONLY the pulley? Dave64

Terminology incorrect, my blue! "Cyclonic crankcase breather", NOT EGR valve/device. Anyway, gather hoses hook up the same way? Dave64

Couple of more questions, Guys, not too involved this time. On this 200TD 12L engine, there is a bung in the inside of the inlet manifold (facing the rocker cover). Any reason why it can't be used as either a test point (or a permanent boost gauge) for checking manifold pressure? Other one is, where the line runs up from the sump to the EGR canister, (think that's what it's called), mine has been sealed off with tape, going by photos on this forum, it just goes back to the inlet side of the turbo. Waiting for an original 200TDI air cleaner canister to arrive, going to stand it on it's end for my application. Does it really matter just where it hooks into the air inlet system? If the EGR canister is working properly, should be just about clean air, free of any oil, maybe just a few fumes to recirculate. I also asked under another topic, about the engine oil cooler lines. Had a gin around with them today, original hoses as fitted to a Discovery won't reach the radiator without some modification. There is just enough room to get the fittings on inside the chassis rail, so as I'm not going to be using the Disco radiator at all, plan on mounting a separate cooler somewhere else on the chassis, possibly in front of the engine coolant radiator. Plenty of after market coolers around, even got a couple of auto trans ones here, may even be suitable, although possibly the engine oil pressure may be higher than an auto trans? Never been big on them myself (auto trans), prefer a manual, but that's only me. As usual, learning a lot about these engines, have a few little quirks unique to what I am used to, but am grateful for the responses and advice you blokes on this forum have given me. Thanks, Dave64

Maverik, thanks for the offer, looks like all sorted. Cheers, Dave

Maverik, that's damn decent of you! Will keep you posted if they get back to me. Just double checking, it was a TRIPLE groove you fitted? I wanted to try and leave the actual damper itself in place if I can. Thought if I just undo those four bolts, the old pulley would fall off, may need a bit of persuasion going by your other post. Cheers, Dave

Thanks Maverik, shot them an email from your link, only proviso was they may NOT ship to Oz. Wait and see if they reply. Cheers, Dave64

Hi All, Having a look at the crankshaft pulleys earlier today on this ex-Discover 200 TDI 12L engine and noticed a definite "shimmy" in the dual groove pulley. See where it's held on with four bolts, so should come off easily, Don't wish to disturb the vibration damper itself, so thought I would drop the pulleys off whilst still easy to get at. If push comes to shove, can always check for excessive movement in the damper itself with a dial indicator gauge. Check the rubber mounting whilst I'm at it. Although can only really give that a visual inspection. Reckon that the engine has probably been dropped on it's nose at some stage, persons unknown! My query is, IF the pulleys can't be straightened (and I doubt they can) have seen replacement pulleys available over your way (UK) at a reasonable price. Would have liked to replace it (pulley) with a 3 groove unit, but don't know and haven't been able to find out if they are available to suit this particular engine, either O.E. or aftermarket. Have heard of them being replaced by a 3 groove unit off a 300TDI engine, but believe they are an integral unit with the damper, you have to swap the whole shooting match. AND heard all sorts of stories how well those are bedded in and the dramas in removing them. IF it is only the pulleys that are crook, would have to replace them with a hew one, even if only a dual groove. Waste of time and money buying one from the boneyards, complete unit may be different, who knows? Bottom line is:- Anyone know of a way around this? Either a new2 groove or 3 groove, O.E. or aftermarket? Thanks, Dave64

Thanks for that, got hold of a thermoswitch from Davies-Craig, mob who make the 16" fan. Dave64

Thanks, Mike, that's the go! Dave64

Seem to get one problem sorted, another couple rear their ugly heads! Engine came from a early 90's Discovery (200TDI 12L). Going into a project vehicle where major modifications seem to be the norm. Latest thing was that I found the original engine oil cooler lines, but won't fit up without some reworking. The oil filter housing is a very tight squeeze up against the drivers side chassis rail, looks the only way I would be able to get it to fit is have some sort of right angle banjo fitting made up to fit the oil cooler thermostat housing. The other line is OK at the filter end. Although using the original radiator as a stop gap measure until I sort a lot of instillation issues out, no way the lines can fit in their current configuration. That part of it doesn't worry me too much as when I get around to fitting the modified radiator, I'll probably get a separate oil cooler radiator made up. Whoever pulled the engine at least had the common sense to fit large plugs to the inlet/outlet ports on the filter housing, just hope they didn't butcher some "that looks close enough" non metric plugs. Engine has only been run for about an hour and a half since instillation in the new chassis , either at idle or half engine speed at best, not under load conditions. that was only to test other issues, mainly electrical or water coolant ones. I know it's probably not really good practice to have these lines blanked off, if they weren't necessary the manufacturers wouldn't fit them, but under no load conditions other than letting the oil get a bit hot, can't see too much drama. Next job on the ticket for the engine anyway, once a few minor engine coolant issues sorted. Which brings up another query. Have seen where some photos show the water thermostat spout pointing to the drivers side, guess its the same spout just turned around. If so, going to save me modifying the top spout, rough measuring puts the inlet/outlet almost in a straight line, should even leave enough room to refit the fluid coupling fan if I want to. Bottom radiator spout needs moving from one side to the other , again when I get the unit cleaned inside and out, get the radiator shop to move it. Radiator once installed will sit a bit higher than the standard Disco, about the same width, but larger capacity. Only thing is, wont be able to run any sort of header tank unless I attach it to the back of the cab like a lot of cab over trucks do, then you have to run hoses all over the place, plumbers nightmare. Dave64

May have this minor problem sorted, received an email from the manufacturers of the electric fan set up (Davies-Craig), who tell me they have an adapter from 3/8NPT which suits the particular fan. Shouldn't be too hard to get an adapter from the M22X1.5 to 3/8NPT which would simplify things. Dave64

At the moment, has the original L/R cross flow radiator that belongs to that engine, sitting on a channel. Can't use the original fluid clutch type fan as engine is centred, but fan would be too far to drivers side. Not running the aftercooler at the moment either, straight turbo outlet direct into inlet manifold. Fitted a new recommended 82 degree thermostat, seems to be opening/closing correctly going by the gauge. Swapped a bloke a carton of stubbies (beer) for a 16" Davies Craig fan along with all the wiring that went with it. He was going to install it in a C20 Chev with a 292, but never got around to it. Wired through a relay at the moment, mounted in front of the radiator pushing through the core, has a manual switch at the minute to activate the relay. Got a Hella download list off the net, plenty of thermoswitches with varying opening closing temps, many in same metric size as the PRC 3505 which is stuffed anyway (boiled the backside out of it in a saucepan with an ohm meter hooked up, dead as a doornail), so a matter of either going through that or just retap the old unit to more common (for me) 3/8NPT or BSP. Already have another bung in that blank hole same as in your photos, but actual positions switched. Unit is in the centre of housing, new bung to one side. Don't suppose it's all that critical as to whether I use a single pole or dual thermoswitch, only be there to activate the earth side of the relay anyway. Cheers, Dave64

Alternator checked out OK, reinstalled, started from scratch again and whatever I've done, seems to have cured it. Half the problem may have been a brand new dodgy ammeter. Now reads, ign off, engine stopped----12.3v ign on with fuel shut off, tacho and temp gauge--eng stopped---12.0v eng idling, --13.5--12.9v engine RPM, 1500-2000,---13.4-13.8v battery with everything off--12.4v battery with engine running--14.4v So that's going to do me for a while. Dave64 BTW, read either on here or maybe another L/R forum, how some bloke was using the temp sensor in the top of the thermo housing (12L engine) for a thermoswitch to operate the electric radiator fan he replaced the conventional fan with. switch PRC 3505.