Dave64

Thanks, Guys. The thick brown wire and the white/grey wire have two different size eyelets on them, maybe 1/8" and 1/4", so can't really get them mixed. Only the white/grey is marked, "W", no other markings around HOWEVER, there are TWO possible places the "ind" wire, yellow/brown female spade can hook up. As I wrote earlier here, there is a single male spade in a recess by itself ABOVE the main brown ALT out terminal, ALSO where the two large lucar recess is, another possible male spade in there (as in photos), just not too sure which one should be utilised as NEITHER is marked, "ind" or otherwise. Suppose easiest thing to do is wait until the engine is started and hook a low power lamp/holder to other end of it (in series) and see what happens? Reckon it will either work (light up) or not, probably can't really do much damage? Had the alternator tested and bearings checked, all OK, asked the bloke to mark the posts/outlets, but he dropped it off at a local workshop without doing so. Thanks again, Dave64

Western, Think I got it, will attach two photos, one with what wires I have hooked up, unsure of just where one goes, other photo with wires removed. Large thick brown, obviously main current feed FROM alt TO post on starter motor (thence to battery?). There IS a post marked "W", you can just make it out in the photos, has a white wire/grey trace, so take it that is the tacho out terminal.Both these have terminals held on with nuts. The other one I'm not sure of the position of, brown/yellow trace has a push on female spade. Again going by the photo there is a male spade sitting just above the main alt out terminal, but also there is a recess in the centre of the rear of the alternator which has TWO large male spades and one small male spade on top of them. This recess has a wire retaining spring to obviously hold some sort of push on connector which I don't have at all. Going by the two diagrams you posted, mine seems to be a combination of euro connecters AND stud connections. Who knows what that may mean, wouldn't surprise me that it could have been changed over at some stage, have a feeling that this is a replacement alternator for the original. Often find that when it comes to local components they can and often do throw in a curly one. Hence the brown/yellow wire, can't find it on the Haynes wiring diagram I have here. Thanks again, Dave64

Hi, All. General purpose query on wiring of alternator on project vehicle. Alternator is stamped "Baxters" with code NAB 301. Looking up the site tells me it is either a rebuilt Lucas 12v 65amp, or Baxters own build for Australian content. I have a matched pair of 80mm VDO electronic Speedo and Tacho gauges, the speedo is no problem as it is an electronic drive direct out of the transmission, pretty straight forward. With the tacho, the "pulse" terminal , should be the "W" terminal according to what I read. Some of the wiring loom is missing, the main alternator "out" wire (heavy brown) has a large eyelet which looks like it goes to either the starter motor or a terminal block somewhere or other. There is provision for a push in plug in the centre of the back of the housing which I don't have, has multiple spades on it, I would imagine it would have both a positive "in" terminal as well as an "indicator (idiot light) terminal as well. I have access to a Haymes workshop manual , which although is pretty handy, doesn't really give a clear indication of the actual wiring for this 12L engine. Can anyone direct me to either a clear wiring diagram to suit a Discovery 1992 w/TDI 200 that would pertain to this particular engine? I can't really take a great deal of notice of what I have here as I only have the bare minimum wiring on the engine itself. Glow plugs, fuel shut off, oil pressure sender, water temp sender (I intend replacing the latter two with mechanical gauges) and starter motor , both main in cable as well as solenoid activation terminal. Any chop out would be greatly appreciated, thanks. Dave64

Spent the weekend away, whilst there, sussed out a 200TDI 12L jockey pulley (belt tensioner) from a L/Rover dealer, as they are a sealed unit (virtually throw away, thought I may as well spring for a new one). I have the invoice for the quote, AUD $398.00! Man, they have just got to be kidding! After picking myself up off the floor, wandered around to an engineers supply place I buy a few bits and pieces off, dual groove alloy pulley same O.D, two sealed bearings and a step bolt, all up cost AUD $68.00. Whilst at the L/R spares also priced a water pump pulley (not the pump), AUD $110.00. On the way home, called into a bearing joint I buy my bearings off, can supply same diameter O.D. pulley in either single of dual groove, pressed steel to suit 12A belts, AUD $35 and $43 respectively. Needs the old pulley to ensure same internal bore size, is blank (no holes) simple matter to drill the three mounting holes. Are you guys over there also paying what I would call an exhorbitant price for your parts? I know they have to be imported over here, but as I said to the parts salesman, come on! Cheers, Dave64

Thanks to ALL for your invaluable tips, photos and advice. Not really a R/R or L/R, just like the TDI 200 engine, sits in the chassis just nice, a little wider than I would really like, but they say nothing is unachievable if you think about it long enough, along with input from blokes who have done extensive modifications. Get a coat of paint on it hopefully in the new year. Not all that far off rolling it out of the shed so all will be revealed. Silly season here so won't get much sense out of anyone over here for the next month, time to take stock of what parts I need, waiting on a special uni-joint and then the driveline is complete other than getting the original tailshaft shortened, no biggie. Have a plate bolted to where the original alloy alternator sat, looks like the ideal place to mount an idler pulley if I can locate one in twin groove format. If I can adjust it there, also at the alternator itself, may do what Snagger suggests and bolt two water pump pulleys back to back. At the moment, only about one third of the pulley circumference is in contact with the actual vee belt. Just want to take a moment to wish everyone all the best for the season and once again, thanks for all your input. Cheers, Dave64

Thanks!

Hi, Another query, this one I am sure I have read somewhere on this forum. Seen a few photos of blokes who have moved the alternator from the near side of the engine over to sit on a bracket bolted to the top of the alloy timing case When I inherited this 12L 200TDI engine, half the fixtures or fittings were either missing or had been removed by someone else. Originally I had it set up with just a single vee belt, dual groove pulley on the crankshaft as well as the alternator but only a single pulley on the water pump. Belt tension was simply moving the alternator adjusting bracket. There was no other auxilliary brackets, pulleys, idler pulleys, no air con, no power steering pump. Really only a bare engine with a few odds and ends in a box. Apparently the conversion of the alternator from near side to drivers side is quite common, even seen photos of blokes running dual alternators. Is there a dual pulley set up for the water pumps on these engines, or do blokes bolt some sort of jockey (or idler) pulley somewhere in the system? Just add at this point that I wont be installing the original fan that screws onto the water pump spigot, puts the fan blades too far to the drivers side. have a 16" electric fan to take care of cooling. Need to move the alternator as going to need as much room as I can garner in the area where the alternator was originally positioned. Already re-clocked the turbocharger and intend mounting an air box in the space with an inlet coming from behind the passengers side of the cab, along the chassis. Any photos (or links) would be helpful pertaining to how others have set up the alternator and pulleys once it has been swapped to other side. Thanks in advance, Dave64

Thanks men.

Thanks, Guys. Not running any type of vacuum booster, so I take it is safe just to blank that line off at the canister affair?? Dave64

Hi Guys, Sorting out a bit of wiring/plumbing on this TDI 200 12L engine, what is this device, what does it do and where does it go to? Still waiting for a mate to photostat me a few pages from his workshop manual, got most of it sorted, can't seem to find just where the end of this cable/hose is supposed to go. Flying blind at the moment. Looks like either a breather of some sort or a plug that hooks up to something or other. Any help appreciated, Cheers, Dave64

ejparrott, Thanks for that, currently have the turbo off, have to re-clock it and am going to bypass the intercooler altogether and do the same as quite a few blokes have done and rework the plumbing from the turbo outlet straight to the inlet manifold, seen a few photos where it was simply routed either over or around the alternator, still looked tidy. Cheers, Dave64

Bowie69, Thanks for that, will let it soak for a while before giving it a tap with a punch and hammer. Dave64

Yeah, bit the bullet and took the turbo off altogether. Borrowed a big set of angle jawed circlip pliers, couldn't budge it so left it to soak overnight with a bit of WD40. Seems to be a heck of a lot of tension on it, maybe been there so long it's moulded itself to the housing. What's the go with the circlip anyhow, looks like it has to be removed from the groove altogether and can sit in the middle of the unit. If I can get the circlip out, will the two halves then turn without trouble, or do you split the two cases (once marked where I want it)? Thanks again, Dave64

Bloke on another forum sent me this, didn't know it's exact name, but we'll call it simply a circlip removal tool. Reckons that Snap-On tools carry them but hellaciously expensive for a one-off job Dave64

Thanks.

Red90, Yes, so I found out! Had a tinker with it today, got various size circlip pliers, angles etc. Couldn't really get a good purchase on it as the chassis rail is in the way. Went around to a mates place looking for a larger pair of angled pliers, which he didn't have anyway. He reckons that way back when he done his apprenticeship, bloke he worked with either bought or made up a "circlip removal tool", which if I have this right, was two blocks of steel, one threaded the other not with a bolt in it and a handle to hold it steady. This one the bloke mentioned had varying pin sizes that you could swap in and out, again secured with a thumb screw. Specially designed for compessing/expanding hard to get at circlips. It's a newy on me, but I thought what a great idea. Reckons you could get different size tools for larger circlips. No-one around here other than this bloke had ever heard of them, however. All advocated removing the turbo and sitting it on the bench so you could at least get at, or pre-mark where you want the outlet pointing at and take it to someone with a decent workshop. Dave64

Just had a bit of a look at a couple of youtube videos on reclocking the turbo, one of them a bloke doing it in the car, still on the engine. Was thinking that rather than disturb the oil inlet/outlet or the inlet/outlet on the compressor side, can't I just loosen the bolts as seen in the video and turn the inlet housing? OR, does the whole shooting match hang together with this large circlip as explained in the text? Thought also that rather than re-tap the bolt holes for the actuator, make up an extended bracket out of 1-2mm steel plate, only has to move about a third of a rotation. Turbo has probably never been removed since ex-factory and about the last thing I need is to snap or jigger the threads of the compressor to exhaust manifold bolts. I do have a gas axe here (oxy set) so maybe a bit of gentle heat wouldn't hurt if I do have to remove it completely, but don't want to really do so unless I really have to. Dave64

Guys! Great stuff, exactly what I am looking for! AND, makes it so much easier for me who is a complete dumbass when it comes to computers, to my mind a link, or several of them as above, why even I can follow that! lo-fi, thanks for the tips re Google, trouble is I hate it with a passion and not knowing how to circumvent all those unwanted and unrelated ads drives me to despair, so much that I want to kick the tripe out of the laptop! But, really appreciated fellows! Cheers, Dave64

OK, tacked everything in place, mounting bolts facing straight down parallel with the engine, offset leaning in towards the engine block. Took the whole shooting match down to a structural engineer and let him run rampant with the mig after he tacked a couple of braces to stop the crossmember twisting. Ended up with about 25mm clearance all around the sump. Bit of trimming required on the off (drivers) side engine bracket as it was fouling on the chassis rail, so beefed the bracket up with some extra 4mm plate to be welded in next cab off the rank. Then a trial fit to make sure everything is where it's supposed to be. Once I get the front crossmember bolted to the chassis rails, check all my driveline angles and then tighten up both the rear engine/trans mounts and the mid-ship bellhousing mounts. Made a bit of a blue with the near side mid ship mount but found a 5mm thick X 12mm centre X 50mm O.D. hardened steel washer should just about slip in nicely between the bottom of the flange on the mounting bracket and the original donut rubbers. Dave64

That doesn't really help me much. Not everybody's switched on when it comes to searches. I've just spent over an hour as you suggested, tried many different ways of using search words which I thought would be relevant and all I got was page upon page upon page of advertisements. I had hoped that someone may have written about this and it was hidden somewhere on the forum, if someone posts a link, I know how to click onto it because it comes up in red. And that's about my lot for computerese, it may as well be in Swahili. Dave64

Thanks, now all I need is if someone can direct me to the details on how to rotate the turbo housing. Dave64

ejparrott, Thanks, you had it for 10 years and it's still performing well? Good enough for me, but one question, did you have to get the injector pump recalibrated? Or just left it alone? Dave64

Hi Guys, Another question for you. I'm sure I have read somewhere on this site about how to "re-clock" a turbocharger on a TDI 200 engine, just can't seem to find the right sub-section. Looking at this project I have started, two questions came to me. I'm sure that quite a few of you blokes have retrofitted these engines into other earlier Land Rovers. Because of engine bay restrictions, I have plenty of height but am somewhat restricted in the width of the engine bay. Easiest way around it looks like instead of trying to source another set of manifolds,(i.e. same engine from a Discovery), is to turn the alloy section of the turbo so it is pointing straight up in the air. This would mean that I would have to forego the intercooler, unless I can mount it under the radiator, which is not the ideal place for it. It wouldn't be too difficult to plumb a short pipe from the OUTLET of the turbo direct into the inlet manifolds, something that I have read your fellows doing. I realise I may have to get the injector pump tweaked to compensate, but how much H.P am I going to lose and would it be all that critical? Have also read that blokes who have done a similar conversion have successfully ran their vehicles as a straight 200 turbo, MINUS that intercooler. If anyone who has done it could reply , especially if you could post a few photo's, would give me a better idea. If I can leave the oil pick up and discharge lines where they are by clocking the turbo as stated above, there is a small 1/8" line, which runs from the vacuum pump around the front of the engine, down behind the alternator and into the waste gate actuator or whatever it's correct name is. The actuator would obviously have to also be clocked accordingly, looks easy enough, just drill and retap the bolt holes in the correct position if that's the way to do it. The line that goes into the turbo housing could have a right angle fitting, guessing it's probably BSP or NPT, whatever, and bought out to join the existing 'tee' fitting. Again, if that's the way to do it, just about leave everything in it's original position EXCEPT the alloy outlet from the turbo instead of feeding the intercooler, would now feed the inlet manifold?? Would have to re-route the fresh air inlet into the turbo anyway, even though the outlet has moved, the inlets still in the same place. On the exhaust side of the turbo, had to turf the original cast iron outlet at the flange as it wouldn't clear the bellhousing mounting brackets. Think the original was 2&1/4", found a triangular flange and welded a 2&1/2" elbow so it drops straight down at 90 degrees and clears everything. Plenty of room underneath also, so kicking around the idea of either cutting and joining the original R/R exhaust system or just simply go up to a 3" straight pipe and muffler. Being a turbocharged engine, I've always found that the better the exhaust breathing becomes (within reason), the easier on the turbo. Just like to point out that this isn't a R/R to L/R conversion, but a one-off project. Now I have the front engine mounts and brackets sorted, time to start looking at other problems I have created for myself! Be interested on others comments, Thanks, Dave64

Thanks Mike, will add another bracket to the crossmember and mount them the same as in your photo with the offset facing the engine. May even get brackets folded up in such a way as they can be "sandwiched" between the crossmember to chassis rail bolts and then bolted to the 45 degree angle part. Thanks for all the input, Cheers, Dave64

Yes, that would make sense, if they were mounted straight up and down, i.e on their flat on a bracket that was at 90 degrees to the engine and/or chassis rails, have another look at the mount though and it's almost telling that it should be assembled on the same angle or inclination. Otherwise, why design the mount that way? OK, you have to compensate somewhat for the engine trying to rotate under torque, maybe they factored that in by having that inclination by facing the engine? Dunno, got me puzzled at the moment. Just about fabricated the new crossmember, left it in such a way that I can add another bracket once I can find out how exactly they were set ex-factory. Thanks again. Dave64