Dave64

Still trying to sort these mounts out. Surely someone knows what angle the original mounts were set at ex-factory? Must be somebody around who either has an old chassis kicking around or who may remember having the engine out at some stage? Mike, if I do mount them straight up and down as you have done in the photos, then which way does that inclination in the actual mount lean? Towards the engine? Or towards the chassis rail? Maybe it doesn't make much of an issue with an off-road buggy, I simply want to set it at the same angles as they were originally installed ex-factory. Thanks, Dave64

That's exactly what I am trying to find out, how were they mounted in the R/RC?? I inherited the bare engine and transmission, so have nothing to work off. I live up in the scrub in Central Victoria, so unless I'm (un)likely to come across someone in my area with one, still flying blind! Dave64

TSD, Entirely different animal. See photos. They tell me this is the standard mount for TDI 200 engine originally fitted to 1993 R/Rover station wagon..Built big because of vibration problems so I've been told. Mount rubbers are interchangeable, but BRACKETS where they bolt onto engine are not! You'll see what I mean about an offset of the bolt angle compared to the guts of the actual mount Cheers, Dave64

Guys, This is another query in direct relation to my other posting. just spent the last hour on the phone to a few R/Rover wreckers and parts people, who are now telling me that the engine (and vehicle) were full imports into Australia (1993 RR station wagon). If so, and no reason to doubt it, what I really need is someone who can tell me what is really a pretty simple answer. They say if you need to know something, go to the experts, so here goes. Going by Miketomcats posted photos, he shows the actual front engine mount (identical to mine) being in a vertical position, i.e the base of the mount being paralell with the horizontal face of the chassis rail, in other words the centreline of the bolt being at right angles to the said chassis rails. You blokes would have pulled these things apart and reinstalled engines many times, no doubt. Can anyone say with any certainty, that the actual front engine mount, HAS to be set this way? I'm inclined to agree with Mike at this stage, but what is confusing me is that disregarding the actual bracket and the chassis rail for a minute, if you have the mount in your hand, there is a definite offset in the angle of the large mounting bolt (where it goes through the crossmember, approx 35 degrees), plus the fact that the guy who gave me the engine swears black and blue that that is the way it came out of the original vehicle, (inclined at the said 35 degrees). Like I posted before, don't have access to ANY original vehicle where I could possibly put an angle meter on to check. So, hoping some of you blokes can set me straight, like I said, I'm inclined to go along with Miketomcat, but have already built a template for future crossmember fabrication, with this 35 degree angle in it. Before getting the full crossmember fabricated, have to ensure that the angle(s) are correct. Just like to add that the project vehicle has a rear engine/transmission mount sitting on a crossmember at the tailhouse extension of the transmission, AS WELL as a side mounted bellhousing to chassis rail EITHER side, (original mounting points, on neoprene "donut" type pads with 3/4" bolts holding them in position). Be really appreciated if some of you blokes would give me your opinions on this. Thanks, Dave64

Mike, Those last two photos show the bolt coming out of the actual mount, (NOT the mount to bracket horizontal bolt) to be vertical and parallel to the face of the rectangular chassis. Unless you have a different mount than what I have, my mount has an offset built into the casting (approx 35 degrees) and again going only by the bloke who had the engine in the vehicle originally, swears that the brackets in the actual vehicle (1993 RR station wagon) are set at the same angle. To me, that makes sense in what he says, the weight (of the engine) is distributed downwards as well as spread out slightly sideways. I don't know enough about them to bet the farm on it, and didn't have the donor vehicle or even get a good look at it, before it was crushed, but that is the reason I originally asked if anyone had photos or tech drawings of the mounting positions.. I'm no engineer by any means, have seen the way you have set yours up many times, in fact rebuilt a couple of old Jeeps where I used those vertical mount adapters with "donut" type cushions, worked quite well. In fact, the project I'm rebuilding at the moment, has very similar type of original mounts midway down the chassis, angled downwards at the same 3 degrees of engine instillation, at the bellhousing. As I'm just about to go ahead and have the front crossmember/engine mounting fabricated, last thing I want is to find out later that I have set the actual mounts at the wrong angle! Thanks, Dave64

Mike, This particular vehicle and engine was an Australian release, so am assuming it was either a full import or locally assembled. If the latter, ANYTHING could have happened but I am inclined to think that it came out of whatever factory diesel 200 TDI equipped, not any retrofit. I hadn't seen this type of mount, but the bloke who gave me the engine reckons they used such a big mount to cushion any engine vibration problems. He seems to think that the mounting pads were set at the previously mentioned 35 degrees to the perpendicular. I've already fabricated a template up accordingly, took a few drawings down to my local engineer/fabricator and he is going to go over them when he gets time. I'll post a photo or two when it's done and before I get around to installing it. As far as the spigot bush is concerned, not using the original transmission anyway, already been sorted and assembled with the previously mentioned NP445 trans. Cheers, Dave

miketomcat, Looking at those photos of the mounts you fabricated, doesn't look to be much of an angle that the mounts sit on, if using original rubbers. Mine are designed to sit at approx 35 degrees to the perpendicular. I also take it that the flat side of your mount fits hard up against the chassis rail inner at right angles to the ground?? Dave64

Thanks for the prompt reply! Dave64

Many thanks, much appreciated! Just went out with a torch and scraped a bit of crud off, best I can make out it is 12L 00747 A. Only thing I can say with any certainty, the engine came out of a 1993 Range Rover station wagon which my mate wrecked. Unfortunately the rest of the vehicle probably went to China and came back as a refrigerator or something similar. Engine came with the brackets and those large semi-circular rubber mounts but that was all we salvaged. As I said, I know very little about them (LR & RR) but have heard good reports on the engines themselves. This particular one had been looked after and properly serviced, the rest of the body and running gear was transplanted into another RR vehicle. We turfed out the 5 speed manual and hooked up a New Process 445 all synchro close ratio 4 speed box. Went together quite well, had an engineer fabricate an adapter plate. Many thanks,again. Cheers. Dave64

Thanks, which brings me to the next question, just where do I find the engine number on a TDI 200 from a 93 R/Rover? Those model numbers unfortunately mean nothing to me, not being conversant with the differing variations. Cheers, Dave

Hi All, Would anyone possibly have either photos or tech drawings of the TDI 200 equipped Range Rover OR Defender? Got to the stage where I have just about everything in place in the chassis, except for the FRONT engine mounts. I know by looking at them that they sit at an angle to the perpendicular plane, haven't measured the angle yet, but guessing around 30-35 degrees. Some reference photos or drawings would certainly help out. Must point out this is NOT going back into a LR product, another project altogether. Whilst I'm about it, asked some time ago about the side mounted turbocharger, any way the turbo can be "re-clocked" to get the inlet vertical? OR, would I have to get a whole new inlet manifold setup, someone on here told me that the Defender with the TDI200 had a top mounted turbo. Any help appreciated. Thanks, Dave64

Hi All, General purpose question, looking for a universal joint under the Spicer # K5-L4R. Don't know what the L/R # is, but by measurement it is a 1300 series U/J. THINK it is used on the front tailshaft or either a late model R/R or L/R. Reading on other forums, it has been upgraded to a Spicer # K5-A757 1300 series HD. I have been told that the original U/J had a tendency to flog out after some time and the K5-A757 has superseded it. Can anyone confirm this? I have been led to believe that the upgraded version now has the same load capacity as a Spicer 1310 series. Any help appreciated, Thanks. Dave64

Thanks very much for clarifications, Fellows. As I said, not all that well up on L/R or R/R engines as such. Just had another look at the wkshp manual I picked up, NOT a specific R/R book, rather a generic small diesel service/repair one. Possibly mislabelled as the photo shows a serpentine belt. but I can work around that. From what I have read both here and on some other forums, the 2.5 litre 200TDI engine seems to be a good honest little unit. Reason I was given it is that it had disturbing noises coming from the rear of the engine, once I split the gearbox from the engine, found out that the crankshaft bushing was flogged out. Although clutch plate couldn't be salvaged, the crankshaft and flywheel as well as the pressure plate were taken to the clutch man who checked them over and said they could be reused without major surgery. Not using the original R/Rover 5speed O'drive tranny so had to spring for another clutch plate (custom made) and adaptor plate. Got to the stage where I am slowly putting components back on the engine, must be almost there as I'm running out of parts that were given along with it. Thanks again, Dave64

One query I posted, may have been overlooked when the answers started coming in, was what type of belt arrangements were used. Today I picked up a manual covering basic 200TDI, 2.5 litre layout, UP TO 1994. It shows a serpentine belt arrangement, so the more I think about it, the more I'm thinking that someone may have modified the set up. Mine is running a single VEE belt for the radiator fan, single groove, with the alternator running a dual groove pulley. As I didn't have the power steering pump, BUT did have the idler pulley, in a box with other odds and ends. The bloke who gave me the engine reckons it came out of a 1993 Range Rover, so he's as much in the dark as I am. He told me that he took the power steering pump off to give to his bro-in-law who has since sold the vehicle on. Neither would be able to confirm just what type of belt arrangement was on the vehicle at the time they started wrecking it. Would they (Range-Rover) have changed from VEE belt to Serpentine around this period (1993, Australian release) or maybe some models came out WITHOUT air-conditioning? To my way of thinking, this seems to be a pretty basic set-up, makes it harder without either having access to the vehicle and that when I picked the engine up, just about everything on the front of the engine had been removed. What else MAY have been driven off the main drive belts? Crankshaft pulley was ALSO single groove. As usual, any help appreciated Dave64

Thanks to all for info posted. Dave64

Slightly off topic, but where would I find the power/torque figures for the 200TDI, 2.5 engine in both straight turbocharged as well as turbo/intercooled? Thanks, Dave64

Not really having any issue with it at this stage, engine sitting on floor of garage, just going through components to see if anything is missing. Dave

Thanks, Men! Any known issues with them? Brake man reckons they should draw 15 ? (inches of mercury??) If so, what would be the biggest vacuum booster that would safely handle ? 9 inch? Thanks. Dave

Hi All, How many variations of vacuum pumps on the 200TDI 2.5 litre range Rover (Australian release) model? 1993/94 Seen some photos where the pump is on the back of the alternator, some on an individual bracket driven off the serpentine belt, mine runs just a single vee belt and the pump seems to be mounted on top of the injector pump. This normal? Or has it been modified, as the power steering pump and brackets were not with the engine when I picked it up, probably be scrap by now. Any help appreciated. Thanks, Dave

Red 90, Bummer! Was hoping it may have been as simple as swapping manifolds, re-clocking the turbo to the right position and leave all the drives/pulleys in their original position. Should have learned by my age that nothing is as simple as what it first appears. Have to re-think it again, Thanks anyway. Dave64

I know this is an old topic, but if I have read it correctly, going by photos of the head/manifol/turbo set up posted by Hangover and the follow up by Steve B, my engine has been identified as a 1993 2.5 TDI 200 out of a DISCOVERY. In the same topic it was stated that we didn't get the DEFENDER out here with that engine. Again, if I have read it correctly, the two engines were identical except for the position of the actual turbo (and probably a bit of plumbing). My query is do they USE the same turbo, and if I wanted to mount my turbo on top of the engine instead of being slung UNDER the manifold on the passenger side, is it simply a matter of getting hold of a DEFENDER manifold and the accompanying hoses, oil pipes etc. Got a project in mind for this engine where I have a bit of height to play with, but not much width. If anyone could post a few photos of the top mounted turbo on a Defender engine, give me a bit better idea. If it's feasible to change it over, how hard is it to lay my hands on a suitable manifold. have had stuff sent from the U.K. before and delivery is often better than our own snail mail. Although never had to have anything sent as big and bulky. Much appreciated, thanks Dave64

Nick, may have found something a bit out of the normal. Got hold of a little 2 ton Karrier tipper worthwhile investigating. Dave

hangover, re your enquiry, no, at the moment I have another project in mind. Have it bolted to a close ratio NP445 transmission. Cheers, Dave

Thanks Guys Dave

Thanks, Maverik. Exactly the sort of info I was looking for.Appreciated Dave64