skirky dave

Bowie69, Hi mate, This is unchartered waters for me and i can only go on the recommendations from people with more experience. From what i have read,..not just on this forum, but from a cross reference of many land rover forums, it would appear, that the general opinion would be , to use the largest cca battery i can fit. By all accounts ( only from what i've read of course ) is that,diesels use a lot of battery power, especially in winter and freezing overnight conditions just to get the engine started and that , by all accounts,..it then takes 30 miles to replace the energy the battery has used, So if i'm stop starting through out the day, that's a lot of power depleted from the battery. So long as i can get hold of a battery with plenty of oomph, i don't really care, Just a little fed up with re/charging batter's through the winter. Thanks for the heads up on Tayna, I'll look them up. Cheers mate Dave.

Hi Les, Yes i seem to remember you mentioning this in a post i read..somewhere but i'm sure it was this forum, Are they really that much of a pain to start after undertaking this kind of work??. ..If need be, i shall call in a favour from a mate of mine. At first, i was under the impression i might have to wear my fingers out working the lift pump,----from the Filter to the Pump to the injectors etc etc, just to clear the air and getting it to start. THIS COULD BE FUN !!!. A mate of mine has told me he has a spare 800cca battery on almost constant charge that he uses to jump start motors in the winter, in his garage. May borrow that until i can buy one. I shall have to start looking up decent battery suppliers maybe with delivery thrown in. Bit of a minefield really trying to find a really good battery without paying through the nose. Especially with winter just around the corner. It has to have some serious cca. Cheers Les.

The site i was looking at was www.THEXMOD.com ...vehicle parts..land rover page 1. there is no serpentine belt wheel attached to it BUT it does state for a V8. I may look at the 200 TDI alternator if it's around the 65amp mark. The 120 amp may be a little OTT. But i just thought i would ask for advice first. Good tip about flipping the front cover..cheers. The fixed fan bolt holes are MUCH narrower than the viscous unit, in fact i noticed an additional spacer that can be fitted ( ERC 7489, FROM THE SAME COMPANY) but I think i can get away with using the series water pump pulley wheel. The problem with using the spacer, from what i can see/measure, is that the overall length might interfere with the series radiator. In other words...be too long, shall have to see how i go on

Well.............Did everything i was advised to do, and then hit 2 problems, ( 1-Battery completely dead, even my mates Ctek charger couldn't rescue it so it must have been on it's way for a while ). ( 2-Water pump fitted for FIXED fan, hate the viscous units,...BUT i didn't realise that i required the 2.25,petrol / diesel / 2.5 diesel water pump PULLY wheel. Both the 15j and 19J TD use the viscous units, AAAARGH. Oh well, back to the bay of evil and found someone selling one, CHEAP!!. So have to wait for that to arrive. And i've got to buy a new battery, 800 - 900cca more £. What a pain, and now the weather's changing and Autumn's on it's way.. Ok for you though Nick. Wall to wall sunshine. I do have one question though, if you can help....I've found an alternator that's for sale..12V- 120 amp AMR 2938 Land rover military surplus stock £68.50+vat +delivery. Question is..will it fit the 2,5 of mine ?. fair price???. Mine's a standard 45 AMP i think. Dave.

Snagger, Many thanks for your help, and kind words. The information regarding the timing,/ retarding / advancing/ colour of smoke / and using the fan as an aid,.. is all very, very helpful. Thank you. Also, a big thank you to LES, for all his help/information. Spent a long time looking over your tutorials. Very helpful Les, CHEERS. I'm not a mechanic/engineer but armed with enough information, instruction and given an understanding as to the why and how something works or becomes a problem, i'll give it a go, and try to fathom an answer. To many others reading or following this ongoing article, it may be self explanatory and boring, but to others ..it may help and that's what it's all about. That's the reason i posted those images. An elderly gentleman who lives down the road, used to work for Triumph and he told me " If you put a little bit of grease on the Rocker's Caps, it will help stop them moving and the possibility of losing one" He was right. Love old school idea's. Very simple, but works. Regarding the pump timing marks, as you suggest, for ( fine timing ) the pump. I shall use the same method with the Tippex and then a pencil line. These marks will the be replaced with a more permanent solution, i.e , a sharp fine chisel line. The indents can then be painted with red paint and the excess rubbed off leaving only the recessed red timing marks for a visual aid in the future.. As soon as this is finished, i shall post the images of the new, and removable engine mount that i fabricated. Of course...i wasn't aware that an existing engine mount was available, at the time!!!. GUTTED. It took an age to make mine, for reasons i shall explain later. BUT..It works !!', Just for future reference..any idea as to the flywheel timing pump locking pin device part number. One of these could be very helpful in the future and a solid investment to my tool box. See if i can get her started today!!!!!. Cheers guys Dave.

OK,.., i'm pretty sure i've done this right, following advice and reading past posts, but feel free to correct me if i haven't. The crank was turned ,..clockwise, until flywheel timing notch appeared, ...removed flywheel 13mm brass timing nut to see this. I managed to find an old nail/pin and slotted this into the fuel pump. 13mm nut needed removing on the side. This locked the pump in the correct position regarding the fuel pumps chest's timing marks. Cam wheel was was also turned to it's corresponding timing mark . The belt was then fitted with extreme care, so not to run the risk of disturbing the timing marks. Once everything lined up, i re/checked the flywheel,....all good. I then removed the pump timing pin and turned the crankshaft until the Crankshaft-Camshaft-fuel pumps timing marks lined up,..Which they did. Bang on. Then..re/checked the flywheels mark, and again..bang on. I have since, turned the crankshaft a couple of times ( just to satisfy myself that everything's ok)... all is still on their timing marks. Final adjustment (fine tuning) of the fuel pump shall be done after the engine's started. I think that's got it covered but if not........Please feel free to advise. ( Been reading...ALOT!!) Cheers Dave.

Cheers again Snagger. I had a long think about everything you said and i came to the conclusion that it would be safer, ( after all the work i had done) to play it safe and refit things, and as you say, remove the injectors and hand turn the engine on the crank. I may loose a couple of hours in having to refit everything but i think it's more important to play on the side of caution. A couple more hours work, in the greater scheme of things is immaterial. Better to be safe. Cheers again mate.

Right..ok..,i see what you mean. The reason i thought i would ask, is, because IF, i had the timing off by ONE tooth, ( which i'm sure i haven't because every arrow and dot lines up). I didn't like the thought of stripping everything back off again including the timing case to re/adjust it. I may have to trust my gut feeling and put everything back on and keep my fingers crossed. As you say..i can check for fuel at the injectors whilst the cover/radiator is back on.

By the way Snagger, thanks for the tip regarding the Pushrods, worked like a charm mate.

Thanks for that Snagger, never occurred to me regarding the alternator. I'll check that out. Also...before i put the Timing Case and Radiator back on, is it ok to try to start the engine for a short time just to make sure the diesel is getting to the pump / injectors. My train of thought is, get the engine started for a few seconds, switch off, and then start putting everything back on. I can then fine tune the pump after. What do you think. Cheers Dave.

Les. Many thanks for that,appreciate it. Dave.

Anyone tell me if it's ok to use the crankshaft pully from the 19j TD in place of the Sherpa's, there both single pully's. Dave.

The caps from from the 19J in place with additional washers bringing the Rockers and Tappets square. Hope this helps someone in the future.

This shows the addition of TWO extra washers to bring the Rocker in line so the pad is even with the Tappet. They were slightly off centre but are now pretty much bang on as the next image shows.

In this image, you can see all the Rocker bolts numbered. It was in fact my partner (Sue) who came up with the idea. That i should clean the bolts with white spirit, leave to dry and then apply TIPPEX. Leave that to dry which takes 5 mins and then apply permanent marker pen, that way if i drop them or whatever i can still refer to which holes they go into. The same can be applied to cylinder head bolts. The marker pen can then be cleaned off with a petrol wragg.

Just one of the Rockers stripped down and cleaned in petrol. To those who are not aware, if you look inside the rocker, you can see a small hole which goes all the way to the upper pad part. These were from the 19 TD engine and 3 of them were partially clogged. With a 3 inch piece of fine multi stand cable, i managed to clear the rocker of gunge, re rinsed in petrol and left to dry before re/assembly with plenty of fresh 20/50 oil.

Ok, this is what was causing the problem. Or should i say, it was, in fact, MY fault as i previously stated to Snagger. Having said that, it's all a learning curve. The very fact that the Rocker's component parts have to be PUSHED onto the shaft, especially the END pedestals, is in the clue. There is no fixing point on the ends ,as such, i.e circlips , so when you push the ends onto the shaft, you may be 1 or 2 millimetres out.on the dowels.at both ends. Having the Christmas Lights suddenly come on ...AGAIN..i decided to gently tap the pedestals with a wood drift whilst the large bolts were semi inserted into the pedestals holes. As soon as the pedestal bolts was over the correct locating point.....the bolts dropped in. This may seem blatantly obvious to those who know and have experience in stripping/replacing these rockers..but it was the first time i had ever stripped one down, cleaned and replaced with other rockers to replace the existing one's that was badly marked. There are more images to come with other remedies to straight forward problems if anyone is interested or if it helps those with similar problems.

Cheers Pete Nice to hear from you again Dave.

Snagger,........ok we'll do. If i have any further problems with this, i shall post a couple of images. This is most probably due to something i've done as it fitted perfect, before i stripped the rocker shaft down and change the rockers over,.. and the only reason i did this is because my original one's were shocking and the 19j's looked so much better and complete with caps fitted. So i'm thinking it must be me. In fact Les gave me an idea, which makes sense, i might not, have turned the shaft around and aligned it properly. It might be a millimeter or two out. I'm not sure but i shall check it this morning. Cheers mate.

Snagger, cheers for the heads up again. and yes the 19j engine is a total write off. With cracked pistons and all sorts of problems, but there again, i only wanted the chest off it. ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, The Rocker bolts had only been finger tight and have since been removed for closer inspection. I also slackened ALL the rockers off before hand to make sure the pedestals sat down first, which of course they didnt..,but did before i stripped down the rocker shaft. I shall keep you informed of my findings.