skirky dave

Bandog, Eh up, Yep, i've heard of many different type of installations to improve the series heater problem, and if you've managed to find one that works for you , then that's all that matters, great. But not all of us are handy with electrics/ relays etc etc especially ME!!. Maybe Graham is just trying to keep things simple, i don't know, But that's the way i did it.

Hi Graham, Mmmm, not sure why there is a long hole cut out but there again i'm not an expert on these. Someone may have fitted a v8 in the past which needs a lot of cutting to the bulkhead,apart from that , i'm not too sure mate as to why there is a long hole there. Mine has two holes only, that's for the copper heater pipes to slide through the bulkhead. The heater is then secured with 2 small nuts and bolts( on top of the heater) to the internal bulkhead,.. and 2 self tappers to fasten the lower part of the heater to the lower part of bulkhead. EASY!!. iN MY OPINION the series 2A bulkhead is prefered, even my mate prefers mine to his!!!!.

My series 2A swb has the flat type and my mate's series 3 swb has the series 3 type heater and this is what we found out after we compared the two. The series 2A heater seems to blow warmer around the feet area of the driver and passenger side ( equally ) Because it's situated in the middle of driver / passenger. His series 3 blows down onto the upper part of the legs ( knees ) and lower leg ( shins ) BUT is much much cooler by the time it reaches his feet area.It must also have a cool air supply from the outer N/S wing. ... The flat series 2A RECIRCULATES the warm air from inside the vehicle as the landy warms up. Also....and this has made a MASSIVE improvement, I also fitted a couple of ( T ) pieces to the hot water pipes in the engine bay and routed them to the rear AND fitted a couple of 24v bus heaters, running on 12v and fitted them to the rear bulkhead behind the seats where the spare wheel is sometimes fitted. When my children were younger, they often asked me to turn the rear heaters off as it was getting too warm for them, AND this is in winter with a canvas roof fitted!!!!. The bus heaters cost me £20 quid from a bus scrap yard in Barnsley. That was 18 years ago and they still work perfectly. With the front and rear heaters working together,, the landy gets warmed up in no time and keeps recirculating the warm air getting warmer and warmer until i have to turn them off for a while. Also, but don't quote me on this, i'm not sure if the series 3 heating system can be fitted to the series 2A BUT I'M SURE someone here can answer that one for you. Hope this helps mate. Dave.

Steve b / Bowie 69, Hi guys, nice to hear from you again. Right ok i'll have a look into youtube. It's not something i had thought about but i may give it a go. Just waiting to hear from the engineers now, so....yes i will keep you posted. Got to have a nip down there in a day or so just to see how things are going. Get back to you soon. Dave.

Just to give anyone who's interested in this post, the heads up,...All parts have been sought and the engine is now at the engineers having new hotspots etc etc etc put in. Anyone know if video's can be put on here ??. If so, i'll give it a go once the cylinder head is back. Cheers for now, Dave.

Hi again Nick and guys. Sorry i've not post anything regarding the ( Ticking Noise ) but after my last weekend trip my other half wanted to go on holiday, so.... Anyway this gave me some time to reflect on things regarding the engine and in the end, i've decided to bite the bullet and try to get as much done as i can in one go. Obviously this has meant saving up lots of pennies as this will cost a few quid to do it right. I don't really want to be stripping the head off again in a hurry !!!. So..i've still to check the Tappet Guides but it's been raining again and again. Depending on what i find under closer inspection will determine if i buy a full new set. Plus valve guides, plus new hotspots, new valve stems plus FITTING!!. I'M kind of looking around the £250-300 pound mark i reckon. So anyway, i shall let you know my findings as soon as i'm able. Cheers Dave.

Sorry for late reply Nick, i'm still packing for extended weekend, ( Before the onslaught of the engine and the emptying of the pockets). Wow, a lot of information there!!!.Your obviously not scared to rip the guts out of these motors. I am still learning and there's many many jobs i've never taken on. Still,..i took the advice from yourself and Les with the previous job ( expert help required post) and everything went perfect. So....here we go again. I shall post again when i get back and let you know what i find, with a few pics hopefully. Cheers Nick.

As i say to my other half, if she wants quiet, the car's on the drive, but if we have to do a tip run she puts up with the landy, which to be fair, she does actually enjoy as she calls it ,,,,character. The series landy's were never made to be quiet especially the diesels and the thing i enjoy is the fact that if it does get sludged up inside, then out comes the hose pipe and it's done. Carpet stinks to high heaven once it gets covered in sludgy water and the like. Someone i know bought a Defender and uses it constantly on his farm, it gets covered and i mean covered from muddy boots. He just leaves it now as it took him all day to clean it once and it still stank afterwards. The series land rover , is what it is, but as most things in the world of land rovers, it's always going to be a matter of personnel choice and at best, a very subjective opinion. But you are correct in that if everything is fastened down correctly in the first place, it can be made quieter to a degree. The best of it is....Once i remove the canvas top, ....( which isn't all that often with the uk summers!! ) all the noise dissipates to atmosphere.

Hi Nick,...ok mate, that gives me a fair account of what to look for, thank you. I thought the Tappet slides were made of brass, but there you go. If i look over the o/s wing into the cylinder head area they do look brassy in colour. Not that it matters much. Question though,..to remove the Tappet slides and Rollers, would it make it easier to rotate the crankshaft ( with a socket by hand ) until the piston comes right to the top, so the followers are at the highest point, is this what you mean??. And secondly, are the rollers magnetic, if so i have an adjustable telescopic length magnet to retrieve them, if not i suppose a bent welding rod should do the job. God i hope the crankshaft is ok !!!. Having said that, when the guy at Sheffield Engine Services listened to the engine, he thought it sounded pretty sweet. May not be as bad as i think and that the loose hotspot was creating all the trouble. I may be Very lucky. I'm away for a few days after tomorrow so when i get back it will be nose to the grindstone with this. I have made a few initial enquiries regarding costs of items as follows Turner Engineering Hotspots = £18.00 x 4 = £72.00 Valve Guides = £7.39 x8 = £59.12 Tappet slides = £8.34 x 8 = £66.72 Total £197.84. OUCH !!!!!!! All prices include VAT Plus delivery charge On top of this...Main shells etc etc + Fitting at sheffield engine services for valve guides, hotspots. If the parts cost this much, i don't really mind, as long as their quality parts and i don't have to do the job again in a hurry. More expense HO...HUM.

If i might jump in here Nick, i was also looking into the Wright off road kit, some 8 yrs ago which , on the face of it looked very good but very expensive and heavy, about the weight of a 750/ 16 tyre, so.. thought i would look into things a little further. A year or so later,and by complete accident, i ended up speaking to an acoustics engineer regarding the sound proofing of recording studio's. We got talking about Landy's and the best way to sound proof one the best we could. His explanation was interesting. He said, " It's a little more complicated than that, because you have to take into account there are many different materials that create a different tone/noise which cause the annoying interference . Caused by a mechanical wave of pressure. One substance will reduce or stop one sound wave BUT NOT another. To really quieten down the landy, would require 5 or 6 different materials, which, together, would not have to be very thick or heavy but the cost could be a little more" His explanation seemed to make sense but i'm by no means an expert on this sort of thing NIick. But it might be a good idea to contact someone who does know about acoustics and what it's all about. On a more personnel note, however, i prefer to listen to the motor with all it's little foibles. As you know Nick ..i do have a few at the moment !!.

Right, ok...i've been looking into this ( Land Rover Toolbox Video's) Valve spring compressor.. and it seems to me, that, damage from a broken timing belt can also cause a bit of a mess with Tappet slides. These i shall have a look at, to see if there is any wear on the side walls etc etc. Also on the video, it shows that there may be wear on the Valve Guides although i do not have a so called Dial Gauge, nor do i know how to use one. Maybe if i'm going to go to the trouble of sorting Tappet slides etc, i may as well get the other bits done as well although i still have to examine them before i make a decision. I hope everything IS ok, otherwise....it's going to cost me a few quid.

TRASH A PISTON !!!!!!! Ok then, 4 it is.

steve b, Hi again mate,just like to say, i also appreciate your help along with Nick for identifying this problem, BEFORE i took the head off. By removing it, it put my mind at rest that it wasn't anything more serious. Question....Would you still change all 4 then, just to be sure? Cheers Dave.

Hi Nick, cheers for getting back to me. I'm trying to upload some images for you but Mcaffe won't let me. Got my son involved in this, so... The lift pump was replaced only a few weeks ago to be honest and i did listen around that part with no dodgy noises coming from round there. However.......As soon as i lifted the cylinder head by two inches,..plop. Hot spot fell out. Is this the cause of the ticking noise??. Need another one and then back to the engineers. More images to follow. Seems you and Steveb was right on the money.

That was £20=25 for 4 delivered free, do they sound like cheapo's. LR Direct sell them for £9.80 each inc vat plus delivery, and Turner's are £18 each inc vat plus delivery What the difference is , i don't know??.

I bought them from a land rover parts dealer but i can't remember the name. If i think back, they were about £20-25. I was going to buy them from Turner Engineering but they were far more expensive. Dave.

steve b / Snagger Cheers for that guys, Looks like taking the head off is becoming a part time job for me. I seem to have had the the head off more times than Henry V111 lately. Snagger, nice to hear from you again Nick, hope your ok. If you remember my last post ( Expert Help Required ) you and Les helped me out massively, so cheers for that. Here's hoping that you and Steve b can nail this one on the head for me. The hot spots were fitted last year if you remember, part of having the head skimmed and pressure tested. Never done cam followers, what's that entail guys ?. Anyway..all in all, this sounds like fun. Cheers steve b / Nick. Appreciate your help. Dave.

Ok,..If, as Bowie69 has suggested, that it could be piston hitting head due to worn bearings?, How's the best way to approach this. Do i require standard size bearings or slightly larger, and HOW do i know which size. Bearing in mind, that, i do not have a garage, and ALL the work must be undertaken on the driveway laid on my back. Has anyone made a video of this job, in this situation. Most video's are done in a fully equipped workshops, etc etc. I have also noticed that my engine is starting to breath a little heavy so....piston rings may need doing and possibly the bores de/glazing,..maybe. Again, another job i've never done. Problems problems. I should point out, that, the motor pulls like a train and goes very very well, Seems like a contradiction in terms but, it does go very well.. Anyone else that could possibly shine a light on this, LES, SNAGGER, ETC. Cheers by the way Bowie69. Dave.

GW8IZR The timing belt issue was a few months ago and it's only in the last few weeks that this problem has occurred. Yes your right, it's very frustrating having to deal with yet a further problem, Love hate relationship at times. Cheers.

It's a light ish metalilc tapping sound, hard to explain. Not a heavy one.

GW8IZR Hi, yes i replaced all new pushrods , Dayco belt, Idler then set tappets etc etc. Beginning to think that Bowie69 may be onto something here. Just don't know what to look for as i've never tackled this job before.

That descriptive sound is based upon using the stethoscope on the injectors 1and3 at idle. Obviously this can be heard more in the drivers seat once driving. ANNOYING.

I know this might sound a little strange so please bear with me, but the sound is a little, as though, someone is rattling a thin ripped off baked bean tin lid in a glass pint pot but higher pitched, sort of a ting ting ting ting ting sound. That's the best description i can offer, if you can call it that.

rtbarton Everything looks good there, no soot or any form of tracing anywhere. Coolant looks spot on also. Cheers.

Bowie69 Hi mate hows it going? When the timing belt snapped last time, Sheffield Engine Services skimmed and pressure tested the head for me and whilst the head was off, we tried moving the pistons in all directions but there was no movement at all, Rock Solid. We also had a look at the bores and they seemed ok also. I agree, it does sound as though somethings amiss internally, But the problem is, once everything is shut down and quiet how do i know what to look for. I have no idea as to what dodgy Big End bearings sound like in an engine. Cheers mate.