Stellaghost
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Posts posted by Stellaghost
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5 hours ago, muzaz said:
Hardox and Raex are also good alternatives to mild steel. It's much tougher and can be welded, however although it can be bent and shaped, considerable higher effort is required. Price is also higher.
Personally I wouldn't use Hardox for general use, we use it quite extensively as wear plate
Regards Stephen
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2 hours ago, elbekko said:
That's looking really smart and very compact
Regards Stephen
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13 minutes ago, Stinkfloyd said:Normal*
Incase you've not noticed Stella's brain operates a bit differently to a normal person 😂
Your quite brave when I'm NOT at work.....
Regards Stephen
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1 hour ago, Ed Poore said:
To most folk minor alterations are swapping tyres for some chunky ones. Not building new wheels from scratch.
11 minutes ago, Stinkfloyd said:Normal*
Incase you've not noticed Stella's brain operates a bit differently to a normal person 😂
What can I say.....guess I'm mentally impaired.......
Regards Stephen
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1 hour ago, Bowie69 said:
I'm just astonished Stephen hasn't just narrowed the axle casing.
I mean... You shortened the diffs, the casing should a piece of cake?
One thing stopping me narrowing the axles, my lathe does not have the length to make new halfshafts also if I shorten axle tubes I will need to undo my road wheels and re-make/ position spring mounts etc.
Modifying the new wheels and re-jigging the brakes is relatively straight forward in comparison
I like the look with the 20" mogrover rims, I'm really only looking at minor alterations to fit my off road 40" tyres
Regards Stephen
Edit...do you also like popcorn..............lol
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1 hour ago, dangerous doug said:
I think I still have the d2 sliding caliper that I was looking at using which I can pop in the post if you like. It takes a lot of space inboard
No need to post caliper, a measurement from pad braking surface to outside of called bracket would be good though
Regards Stephen
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6 minutes ago, Ed Poore said:
Why don't you just cast your own?
Suppose you want some popcorn as well...............
Regards Stephen
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Been looking at floating calipers, they might work, will get some measurements of Doblo and Ranger over the next couple of days
Regards Stephen
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I could also recut the centres to encompass the bead lock ring, this would give me another 30mm so centre's would look a bit like this
however going to hang back on that for the moment as I dont think I can go that far in, why?, because i need to allow for the larger diameter tyres and where they will be on full articulation
Lots to think about
Regards Stephen
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So landrover calipers are 42mm wide and sticking past the wheel surface by 22mm
Wilwoods are 30mm wide and stick past the wheel surface 12mm, so 11mm difference, that is a good saving, I can reduce that by another 1mm if I blend the Wilwood logo back this would leave me needing a 10mm spacer to clear the caliper and I could set the wheel in a bit more to make up for it
Original wheel centre is 120mm in from the edge of the rim, my centre at the moment is 40mm in from the rim, this gives me a reduction of 80mm less tyre sticking out
I said originally the tyres in there present position increase the width 12", with the gain each side I can get this down to 6"
Lot of work but hey ho
Regards Stephen
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18 minutes ago, Stinkfloyd said:
How much clearance do you need?
22mm
Regards Stella
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Tacked ring on and fitted into rim
I'm liking how it looks
However this has now brought about some other issues that i will need to resolve...well it had to really i suppose
so a wee bit of trimming to get portal box into the wheel rim proper, but my biggest issue will be the brake caliper sticking out too far, will need to track down some thinner calipers
I do have a Wilwood caliper to try, just got to find it ...lol
The joys.....
regards Stephen
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1 hour ago, Stinkfloyd said:
Looks cracking! Stella, i assume little to no difference in weight to previous centres as the same thickness of plate used?
Should be near enough the same weight when complete
Regards Stella
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9 hours ago, muddy said:
They would look cool dimple died!
1 hour ago, miketomcat said:Funny I thought that too.
Mike
What is it with people on this forum and scope creep ideas............lol
Regards Stephen
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3 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
8mm plate?
6mm same as what original centre was
Regards Stephen
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Wheel centre progressed
Set up on rotary table
outer holes taken out with a hole saw, 10 in total
then wheel stud holes drilled out and chamfered
centre is obviously still to come out, but i will need to track down a suitable hole saw first
just concentrating on one wheel at the moment until I'm happy with positioning and how it looks
Regards Stephen
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42 minutes ago, elbekko said:
Then just need to make sure the surface is grippy enough.
There is a company called contactacoat in the UK that sells adhesive and rubber granules for dog agility equipment, very grippy and you can apply it very easily yourself
Regards stephen
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2 hours ago, bishbosh said:
Umm, English please????
You are not alone.........
Regards Stephen
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On 4/27/2024 at 5:43 PM, Ed Poore said:
It would be except Stephen doesn't appear to have any peers on this forum
Mebbies in you case Ed........lol
Plenty people on here are peers, engineering wise or other for me and more than a few who do great work but don't post me thinks.........you really should.....
Regards Stephen
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On 4/27/2024 at 10:06 PM, Stinkfloyd said:
Just loyal subjects.
Hmmmm
Why doesn't that apply at work.....
Regards Stephen
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Bigger diameter table knocked up for extending rotary table to allow beadlock rings to sit on for drilling
drilled and tapped for little clamps
holes drilled, clearance and tapping holes for m8 cap heads
due to table extension making the divisions hard to see I decided to go with 10 degree divisions due to every 10 degree mark extending higher up allowing me to align them easier, so 36 holes in all, should be ok
regards Stephen
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Drill bit sharpening machines
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Ha, I did think 12" diameter was a bit ambitious .........
Regards Stephen