Stellaghost

Have you tried turning the crank may just misalignment of splines turning the engine or gearbox in gear may help

It's called Lamancha you turn off the road onto a track just past the telehandler sales place cannot remember name track goes over the hill just follow till you come to the sheds and houses then ask however looking at your photos the axle tube looks fine the rotten bit seems to be the strengthening section common on military landrovers very easily repairable in my opinion it's basically just box section cut it off clean steelwork up and fit a new piece of box section obviously cut to the dimensions of the original piece once painted it will be as good as new alternatively just remove it clean up axle with grinder and paint as before mentioned the strengthening sections were fitted to front and rear axles on military landrovers civvy street vehicles did not have them and managed perfectly well without them if your vehicle is going to get some serious abuse then it wouldn't hurt to refit hope this helps

Would not have thought so but it may have pushed through the fork which can happen

It's called aluminium solder works very well usually someone demonstrating it at Landrover shows just need some patience as looks like nowts happening when your scratching it in then it flows just for info I have joined copper to aluminium with this obviously you need to tin the copper first did not need to do it but it was,a topic that was raised locally so I had a go probably never need it😁

How did you get on always good to know the solution to problems as this helps the forum community ta very much

Hi fridgefreezer You probably already sorted but lidl are selling auto darkening helmets certainly in Scotland at the moment for £23 I tend to buy only woodworking gear off them but what I have seems solid enough if you still need one let me know as I could pick one up and post it if required Stephen

Bleed nipple should be at the top as air goes to the highest point

Problems solved picked up a cream mfu and some fog light switches at u pull it for £10 everything fine now

Still think there may be air in there Starting at the master cylinder crack open all the joints in sequence should be fluid and no air also remove slave cylinder and push piston in so it minimises the space for air locks worked for me in the past also check condition of flexi hoses as they can break down and cause an obstruction if you continue to pump pedal does it feel better and once you stop does clutch fade again this would also indicate air in the system as previously mentioned gunnisons eazibleed is a great tool for this run plenty fluid through to flush out air failing all that you may have to check all is good in the box clutch release arms have been known to punch through and new parts have been known to fail or not work at all hope some of this helps

Probably still air in the system I've always had the best results with a pressure bleed tool Gunnisons do one I take it you have renewed both cylinders

I use air die grinder for light work but for serious work I use a Hitachi 110v die grinder both use the same bits but the Hitachi has far superior reach for getting into holes / bores and obviously not hanging around waiting for compressor to catch up though I do have a Honda petrol compressor that keeps up with a DA easily enough but have not tried it with die grinder

I have the 200tdi in my Lightweight but used manifold and turbo from 300tdi as was way better to sort for exhaust run May have a 200tdi for sale later this year as debating whether to keep the 200 or put a 300 tdi in as have both in the garage

If you go to the offroad centre at Lamancha they had a few series axles laid around last time I was up there they may be able to sort you out

A Solder sucker may have helped de-solder the braids bought one myself recently and it works well only cost about £5

Has definitely worked for me in the past