Stellaghost

Apologies have not come across clearly enough yes the rods you have will do vertical and overhead but that's not what I meant by multi positional the rods you have will not weld vertically downwards where as multi positional rods will they are slightly more expensive but easier to use for a novice no harm intended by that statement years ago when the company I work for went down a cross trading route we were all sent on basic welding courses stick only the instructor asked who was the worst welder the guy who stepped forward was given a rod and told to drag the rod downwards on the vertical instead of the traditionally upwards method the rest of us stood in amazement as the weld produced was as good as running a bead on the flat and all the slag peeled off in one go gobsmacked instructor explained that the rods were multi positional that memory never left me regards Stephen

You can use that as a starting point however a part of it also comes down to how it works for you ( two stick welders may use different amperage for the same job ) also settings you would use on flat bench top stuff will need reducing for vertical and overhead welding you can also buy multi positional rods that are excellent can even weld downhand with them regards Stephen

Rubber can break down relatively quickly I used some as supports for young trees and its starting to crack with age I would say your best bet would be to use a similar material to wagon wheel guards or aluminium make them bolt on as opposed to screws as they will be easier to remove in the long run you will still need to remove occasionally to wash out behind as nothing is ever totally mud proof regards Stephen

The weight in question has two positions when loose it does a lot of small circular motions for sanding / finishing but you can also turn it into the centre shaft to lock it up the DA then acts more like a grinder for taking lots of material off quicker try it in both positions and you will see what I mean so it should be turntable to allow whatever function is required if the centre Allen bolt is very slack nip it up but should still be able to turn once nipped regards Stephen

If you have a lathe and a 4 jaw chuck you could set it up that way and bore out providing your piece of aluminium plate fits in said chuck limits regards Stephen

Just to add there is a company in America called Lucas Milhaupt that sells flux cored brazing rods to join aluminium to copper 4 rods for $25 they also demonstrate how to use said rods on their website hope this helps regards Stephen

I've used universal solder to join aluminium to copper you tin both with the solder and then push together and solder the joint regards Stephen

You could make a bracket that attaches to wheel hub that extends out and attach a lathe cutter onto it and turn it backwards and forwards by hand as it's only alloy alternatively you could set landrover up to turn in low box and let vehicle do the work just need someone in car to clutch and brake so you can adjust said cutter have thought along similar lines to this for skimming discs prior to having a lathe regards Stephen

We can there is a choice at a lot of stations but you still have to push buttons and lift the nozzle regards Stephen

You used to have clear polythene gloves available at fuel stations to stop fuel getting on your hands as most of them invariably leak or start leaking at some point I would have thought fuel stations would reinstate these as a duty of care to motorists to help in the cornovirus effort regards Stephen

Never noticed that always been focused on track rod arm angle as I've said before every days a school day regard Stephen

Me being thick don't know how to remove an accidental quote

Work dependant me and my wife who is a nurse are now carrying nitrile gloves in our cars specifically for refuelling purposes for the few times we have to regards Stephen

That's me in a nutshell also regards Stephen

Never seen that special bolt yet certainly not on swivel to axle bolts if your unsure as to repositioning mark with a piece of chalk or permanent marker however positioning is pretty obvious when taking into consideration for the refitting of calipers and track rods also have never bought new bolts to replace ones removed and I've had mine stripped down more times than I can remember as I used to put a welded diff in for modified trials competitions and then remove it for road use never had any issues at all with bolts in 30+ years regards Stephen