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steve b

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steve b last won the day on June 17

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About steve b

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    Suffolk, UK

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  1. steve b

    Dipstick Oil Blowing

    As above check your crankcase breather cyclone and all the pipes for collapsed internal rubber . Is there a lot of oil in the intake hose between CC breather entry and turbo ? cheers Steve b
  2. steve b

    Heater........V irritating

    They are in the as built location , on later defenders it is usually to the right of the clutch pedal box on the footwell . Your readings suggest no supply volts . A temp live connected to the green/purple at the heater box connector should prove if it is a duff supply . The fan switch should work normally with the temp. live if all else is ok . Keep at it , you are making progress Steve b
  3. steve b

    Heater........V irritating

    In your first pic above there are earth wires with ring terminals to left of fuel filter housing just behind the leak-off return fixed by a screw. Set your meter as simon suggests and as a first test put a probe on each battery terminal to check the function - you should see 12 or 13 v , with black on the +ve terminal it will show -12v . You really need to check the voltage at the 3 pin connector outside the heater box , usually in the space above the footwell between the box and wing , possibly clipped to underside edge of the wing top . cheers Steve b
  4. steve b

    300tdi timing screw up

    Did you align the crank too ? It sounds like you have valves touching pistons . Welcome to LR4x4 btw. cheers Steve b
  5. steve b

    Heater........V irritating

    Some pic's from google images The box assembly and The fan and motor Hope this helps cheers Steve b
  6. steve b

    Series LR prob 3 - LSD Info

    Have you been able to identify the maker Nige ? What sort of Series is it from ? A Factory LSD for a series is not something I'd ever heard of until you put this up . I did have a 80" years ago with an Atlas locker in the back , after market though and as it turned out not very strong . cheers Steve b
  7. steve b

    series 2a clutch issue

    That is indeed a series 3 cover plate , see the pic below This is from Britcar's website , series 2 & 2a diesel and petrol and you can see the spacer I mentioned in my earlier post . Engine out time I'm afraid . cheers Steve b
  8. steve b

    bringing a neglected series back to life

    Change the brake shoes maybe ? Check the tyres too if it's been standing and try and get some oil into the steering relay , often neglected , also check the steering box oil . Some pic's would be nice too cheers Steve b
  9. steve b

    series 2a clutch issue

    Yes , the covers are different between Series 2 and 3 - the original 2/2a spring cover with three release fingers is 12 - 15 mm taller off the flywheel face . Later diaphragm spring covers for Series 1 & 2/2a have a ring on the fingers to correct the height . The Series 3 diaphragm clutch has the release bearing contacting the fingers directly , much the same as a Defender . The clutch pedal should return anyway as it should have a return spring hooked from the pedal arm to a small lug on one of the upper pedal box mounting bolts . Have you checked the cross shaft pins and sleeve between the release bearing housing and the operating lever at the slave ? Flywheel face distance to the flywheel housing face is the same petrol to diesel and as I recall the clutch cover is also the same petrol and diesel . Hope that helps cheers Steve b
  10. steve b

    Smith’s gauge refurb

    You could try a local jeweller , an ultra-sonic clean may do it intact . The older ones have bayonets and release notches , so once loosened come apart easily . I've used a small round ended flat screwdriver to work round enough until it comes apart but it's fiddly and if the outer edge gets a wrinkle ...well you get the picture cheers Steve b
  11. That all looks much better and now operating ok , time to enjoy it have fun Steve b
  12. steve b

    Series Leaf Springs

    I fitted a set of new std. petrol 2.25 109 TC springs front and rear (fronts are handed) last year and they are no less than perfect . It sits level with or without driver at the correct ride height with what seems to be the correct spring rate too . These were the 2nd attempt - the first set were from BM and were in excess of 3x the correct rate so were returned , I never did get any follow up to my extensive testing and quality feedback . The second set were from Jones Springs and are as stated . They also recondition your old ones if you prefer - a route a friend has gone down with his early 2A FC 109 and they look to be equally good . I have no connection with Jones but they seem to be much like Ashcrofts or Turners , a family business and specialists in their field . I ruled out parabolics for two reasons , original look was important and I could not find a supplier doing standard ride height . I hope this helps. cheers Steve b ps. 109 is best
  13. steve b

    Running/starting problems

    Yes if it's clicking then should be ok . The coil should have around 3 ohms of resistance and RTB's suggestion of connecting a bulb first to earth to observe it's brightness then through the coil ( like this - 12v to bulb to coil +ve then coil -ve to earth ) and then you should see a dimmer glow . Bear in mind your meter has a battery and if it is nearly flat readings may not be accurate cheers Steve b
  14. steve b

    Running/starting problems

    That device on the carb is an anti-run on valve and should be wired to the ignition live wire not the distributor side - it should have constant live with ignition on (+ve terminal) cheers Steve b
  15. steve b

    Floppy Gearshift, Getting Into Gear Hit and Miss

    That would do it Jim , good work finding the problem Steve b
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