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steve b

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steve b last won the day on December 31 2020

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About steve b

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    Suffolk, UK

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  1. It should be class 7 but a lot were put in class4 when MOT's went digital . What does the .gov site say it is ? Steve
  2. It might be easier to remove the whole battery tray/box then mount from top of tank to seatbox underside with spacer brackets to suit ? Steve
  3. Welcome to LR4x4 It sounds like an interesting truck , some general pic's would be nice . I'm not familiar with RB44 brake system specifics , again , some pic's of the layout on both axles might help to pinpoint your problem . The Dodge 50 was drums all round iirc ? A likely point to start is the rear load valve , is it free to operate ? cheers Steve b
  4. Good to hear it's in , and looking forward to the next update Steve
  5. That self levelling bed is inspired and an engineering masterpiece Si , as expected with your experience and background . I'm jumping forward a fair bit , but what was involved in getting it registered as a camper on the V5C ? cheers Steve b
  6. Gear oil on the HB shoes will cause drag too , with exactly those symptoms , so a few things to check in and around the HB - Welcome to the forum too cheers Steve b
  7. .....Bobcat have some serious ground clearing warfare accessories , drum flails and rotary mulching heads . Most of them need an armoured cabin though If you need anything post up and one of us might be able to source here in the UK and parcel post If things were more normal I'd offer you my Wessex 2.4m mulching topper as I don't have a use for it now , it does need 70hp at the pto though . Smallfry is not wrong about the risks with rotary cutting machines , I started out as a Design and Manufacturing Engineer for a large groundcare manufacturer and destructive testing of blade
  8. They will cut almost anything to mulch , but that ally disc does get much stick and I suspect work hardened over time and worth a close check . There is not much to the carbs , throttle spindle wear being the most obvious and float needle valve function too
  9. I had one that I made with two opposing tags from a bit of thick steel tube , might have been a bit of scaffolding tube ? Steve
  10. That is one old Hayter - I suspect it would be quicker and easier to make what you need , at a guess I'd say that could be 40 years old or more . If you haven't recently checked the underside of the deck then do so before getting into the engine/carb , these have an aluminium disc that the cutting flail blades mount to and over time the ally disc cracks around the flail mounting holes making it potentially very dangerous . I think the engines were 8hp ? Steve
  11. more than that , a Grand Master of the Project Procrastinators Order of Soon Of course all my Projects are in hand and under control.....
  12. Strength wise , yes , my only concern is keeping them tight . Trailers do vibrate/bounce about somewhat so maybe some sort of cotter pin/R clip arrangement to stop them moving once tight would be the belt and braces solution ?
  13. I wondered about a nut welded in to bolt it down with . My dimensions are just an indication - keep roughly that angle and make it shorter until you can get a nut in . As elbekko says slit the box will work just as well , just me accidentally dropping into quantity production mode
  14. This is what I had in mind , the pyramid would be easiest to fab. from flat plate . Securing it down to the bed can be ratchet strap/ turnbuckle/ steel strips that align with existing holes in the bed or even short chains attached to box and bolted to trailer As to lining it up I reckon with the trailer roughly in place unhitch it and just shimmy it in place as you go . Marks or blocks to run the wheels up to would also help. Steve
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