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steve b

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steve b last won the day on November 19 2019

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About steve b

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    Suffolk, UK

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  1. Last question first , yes that bolt goes through to the block , the other 3 (lower right) that go through to the block like lots of anti-seize paste as water can get down the bolt. The oil under the flywheel cover plate looks like engine oil , most likely to be the rear main seal . Removing the engine will not cause any problems as all the timing parts are within the engine , it will make it a whole lot easier to fix all the external oil leaks and of course it needs to come out to do the rear main seal . cheers Steve b
  2. I've been following this thread and may I just say Thank you Monkie , not only for taking the time to put that clear and factual post together but also for the vital work you and many others on here are doing for all the country , for my part I'm keeping busy for now at home and sticking to the rules . cheers Steve b
  3. No , it's one turn of the Injector pump for two turns of the crank - same as a petrol distributor and as you say it has a master spline in the drive gear so it will only go in one place cheers Steve b
  4. It's the balance weight and should be fixed I think , will check mine romorrow. cheers Steve b
  5. Mmm , that style is a bit of an odd ball to other 7" round mounts , it might be feasible to use the ring and clamps from the more common type and fit M4 nutserts where the adjuster screw head and anchor fit , using the 3 o'clock as the anchor with a suitable spacer between the panel and ring . the other two would be the adjusters with some sort of retainer on the screw at the back of the panel - maybe a nyloc nut wound up to allow the screw to turn and not float about . A small compression spring between the nyloc and the mounting ring on the two adjusters would stop them self adjusting . I never quite understood why LR had this system , for only a year or so , and earlier and immediately later years had the surface mount with the bezel . cheers Steve b
  6. Part no. 525390 from my 2a parts book but it looks the same part through to 90/110 era . It is special with a pin to locate in the rocker shaft . Have a look in the sump , it's possible its found it's way there and check in each pushrod hole too cheers Steve b
  7. the can has two chambers , the central one being smaller is for the clutch cheers Steve b
  8. In my case the thread has gone completely in the missing stud hole and will accept a 9/16" drill bit .. worth a try , I know knock in studs do not need anything normally . cheers Steve b
  9. Thanks , I didn't know knock in BSF studs are available , that should sort it out with some Loctite if needed . I learn something on here almost daily , what a great place cheers Steve b
  10. Yes , through the gear stick front mount hole in the bell housing , you may need two thin tubes joined on your WD40 , the squirt needs to go onto the input shaft splines directly behind the centre plate splined hub so the thin tube will have to go through the diaphragm fingers if it's that style . With the coil spring cover there is much more space between the three release arms . If possible lever the thrust sleeve tophat back . Then lots of use in the garden and repeat if needed cheers Steve b
  11. The early threaded type don't like being undone or done up with a rattle gun and come loose easily . As they wind out the thread in the hub gets damaged by the staked points . I have the same problem on the 88 S2a I'm working on now . I wondered about using the later M16 fine knock in type but turning the stud down to 9/16" and threading 9/16" BSF ? Not quite as good as the standard rolled thread but better than two different threads on one hub ? Do you have a link to the new std. BSF studs ? cheers Steve b
  12. Indeed , however , right now I'm wondering just how big the marketplace will be when they eventually go on sale ? It would seem a long lived , simple , easy and cheap to keep going all purpose 4x4 might be more desirable ... ..Not that JLR could have imagined this of course , the same as any of us I do hope it gets to market and gets used and the feedback will be of interest to lots of us , because it's Land Rover cheers Steve b
  13. It sounds like the steering lock key/barrel are worn and over travelling taking the contacts in the switch past the correct position cheers Steve b
  14. I've had success with rusted tight things by getting it as hot as possible then fast cooling with lots of cold water - repeat as required . If it won't budge can you just block the other end for now , until more normal services are resumed ? cheers Steve b
  15. .........Is this the quote of the year ? Have you been able to get in your shed yet Ross ? An interesting thread TC been following it with interest , the 90 gives an added challenge with the short wheelbase making front - rear pitch more significant . cheers Steve b
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