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steve b

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steve b last won the day on April 3

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About steve b

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    Suffolk, UK

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  1. I had a pair of SP4x4 S3 door tops earlier this year - galvanised frame and they were painted and fitted straight away . Good quality and delivery date was honest and on time . Good quality and fit . My only comment was the sliding glass lock cut out on the inside face was a tad small . Adjusted the plastic to suit . Steve
  2. Jones Springs front set LRUBF rear set LRUBR Supplied with nuts and are long enough for HD spring packs so once fitted you may choose to trim down . The "square" one OSF inner is formed correctly unlike many pattern ones . No connection other than using them , they also fit the clamp plate which pattern ones often don't. Steve
  3. ...it's the sound of the pitch fork tines being sharpened that is most chilling Steve
  4. That's an ex mil. chassis or 1 ton by look of front . If everything is seated correctly then the U bolts are way too short (assuming standard spring packs ) 13 leaf front and 8 leaf rear iirc Jones Springs will supply you the correct length for your build Steve
  5. Reminds me of this The 4000 mile range is a giant claim.... Steve
  6. A bit more background on what repairs/replacement parts have gone into this build would help to give some pointers . Looking at the pic the rear tub could be too high and not at 90degrees to the BH door posts ? The B post , sill and full C post are a welded assy. I've got some measurements in my book in the workshop so will take note of them tomorrow if you need them . Starting with the BH door post at bubble vertical using shims under the wheels might help to narrow it down . Nice workshop , I also want to ask what's hanging on the chain hoist in the background ? Just being nosey Steve
  7. That's new info to me , I thought I knew all the early Land Rover engine variants , very interesting . Are they liquid cooled Nonimouse ? My personal favourite odd-ball was the 81" B40 engine , way too heavy of course but a lovely engine . Steve
  8. If the burr doesn't work you could use a 1/2" slot drill milling cutter . ...or one of these ... Steve
  9. The man has a point , which I had missed , as a direct '81 replacement it should be a 5 mb block with ribs on the outside . Also should be red oxide type finish . Steve
  10. Cory , I suspect the combination of disconnected fuel lines for an extended period and the bio component in the diesel may well have gummed the inside of the FIP. It will be interesting to see what your specialist says . Steve
  11. I think the OP went like for like for originality ? If the skew gear was missing on delivery that is a major fail . Were there packing seals when shipped ? Was it shipped with a known engine block number ? Was this block number clearly evident in the video ? To pursue the supplier it may need to be stripped and assessed on video . As for current running issues , black smoke at full throttle is an indicator of too much diesel/not enough air in the combustion or possibly too advanced on the FIP timing. In it's current installed (?) and built state some basic checks could be done . Compression test both cold and hot Valve lift with a dial gauge (checking for cam wear) Remove timing chain cover and double check cam to crank timing . It's a great shame that you are in this situation and the supplier appears to be denying liability, clearly not a small investment . Steve
  12. Welcome to the forum , Is the fuel injection pump timed correctly ? Has it been overhauled ? As above , did you buy a fully built engine ? What , if any , colour is the exhaust smoke at flat out ? Is the throttle linkage set correctly to give full throttle at full pedal ? Finally , and not least , is the engine stop fully off ? Should have a return spring to a bolt and anchor plate on the oil filter housing. Steve
  13. By the time you clean back to good weldable metal it will just be the running gear . This has been stored outside waiting a new chassis for 5 years , '97 110 sw and was rusty when taken off the road but not this bad The new chassis in the workshop is from Marsland and comes stamped with the VIN in the correct place . About 4 weeks from order to delivery along with B/C/sill assys. and all the other sw related brackets and shock turrets. The odd thing is that while the chassis looks like this , the BH is almost mint and after minor repairs will also be galv'd. I've not seen one that rusty so far forward as yours is . Coastal related corrosion I'd imagine at some point . Steve
  14. With the utmost respect , if it is as bad as you say , patching it while still a built vehicle will end up wasting your time and even stripped would be a significant project for an experienced home fabricator in a workshop . Also , I suspect trying to repair it may destroy your enjoyment of having a Land Rover Defender to use ? If you want it long term and can possibly afford it , replace the chassis or even pay someone to do it . A basic swap is not so much money these days through a good independent set up for quick swaps Speaking as a welder/fab with too many rusty repairs littering my past Some good pic's might help to solidify any choices . Steve
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