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steve b

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steve b last won the day on June 17 2018

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About steve b

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    Suffolk, UK

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  1. steve b


    A good chance it will be the front wiring to lights that runs between the inner wheelarch (galv. steel ) and the outer wing side panel on both sides , if it is not secured in the clips it chafes on the steelwork . Most easily checked/accessed by removing the arch plastic extensions . cheers Steve b
  2. Disconnect the intake pipe from the manifold to avoid any self fuelling moments .......been there a couple of times with inactive FIP's , not totally sure of the internal pump problem but iirc it's something to do with the start enrichment which when normal gives the little puff of black smoke when starting a Tdi . I used M&C Diesel for my overhauls ... and have something to hand to block the intake should it not stop on the key........been there as well . cheers Steve b
  3. steve b

    Look what I brought home last night ..

    3D print a pattern and cast your own at home with aluminium ? I've continued following every post in your thread and this 80" just gets more and more lovely . The Alum. fab. guy is one skilled person , such crisp and accurate work , as is your paintman too . If you want to acid etch I'd look at brass , again possible in your workshop , if you find yourself in Suffolk on a trip with this I can promise the kettle will be boiling cheers Steve b
  4. steve b

    Securing lights !

    How did you find the Wipac LED headlights ? they seem comparable in price to Trucklites offerings . Security wise some sort of tamper resistant fixing as suggested , on the door torx type screws or the phillips type a ball bearing can be hammered into the centre . I'd probably go with a couple of guard bars with weld bolts and maybe security nuts inside the wing panel cheers Steve b
  5. It's great to see the community working together , one of the many reasons I've been a Land Rover owner since 1981 . That was a pretty rare breakage to have , on the subject of P38's sitting , I have a complete 2.5 auto here that has been off the road for a while - BeCM is fried due to water which has come from leaking heater O rings , it has had some new stuff just before getting laid up - Bosch service exchange IP , 3 new air springs , compressor , pm me if it's of interest cheers Steve b
  6. steve b

    Starter working but not turning engine

    It sounds like the clutch/freewheel in the pinion assy. is slipping under load even though it feels tight on the bench ? Steve b
  7. The riveted joints also help with designed in flex ( twist ) when off road , similar to HGV 's , also higher quality (carbon) steel can be used as there is no HAZ from welding , leading to lighter construction making for the light tough design of the original Willys . Great project Daan , it will be an interesting daily drive when done , I'll be following this - thanks for posting it up . cheers Steve b
  8. steve b

    Cheap-ish welding helmet recommendations?

    Ideally 4 sensor screens that will switch at low amps will work best on vehicle repairs or thin low power bench work . Have a look on www.wirs.co.uk they are the most competitively priced on industrial spec stuff ~ I have a Miller Elite , they do have cheaper units cheers Steve b
  9. steve b

    Milemarker hydraulic pump

    With the low total volume of fluid in the system I'd be changing it annually just for peace of mind , I reckon it will fix the difference in performance you have noticed cheers Steve b
  10. steve b

    Driving lights late 2018 update please....

    Give the KC's another look I bought my 4 in 1981 ...... and have not needed to buy anything since . Nothing I've compared them to on other vehicles comes even close on range or focus . cheers Steve b
  11. steve b

    Milemarker hydraulic pump

    Ah , yes , you are probably right about the prv location , maybe stick a washer under the relief spring to test ? or maybe run thicker hydraulic oil (SAE 46 ) to see if that makes a difference ? A mate of mine runs 15/40 diesel engine oil in his U900 Unimog hydraulic tank . How often do you change the oil ? Iirc the kits had ZF74 pumps ? Does it run all the time or is there an EM clutch ? Steve b
  12. steve b

    Milemarker hydraulic pump

    I'd start by checking the mechanicals of the winch - drum bearings , alignment of end castings and gear assy. then oil feed pipe to pump and whatever filter you have either in the return or suction line . If you have an OCV ~hydraulic lock ~ it may be that it needs adjustment or is failing . The PRV is usually located in the spool valve block and often covered by a closed cap nut , under it will be a long "grub screw " and a lock nut , it should be around 170 - 180 bar to protect the motor . hope that gives you some pointers Steve b
  13. steve b

    Overheating after top end rebuild

    probably just going with the flow ........ Sorry couldn't resist , I've been following this and it is a puzzle , my thoughts were as others have already suggested - drive belt route , pipe connections but you have covered it all . An IR temp. reading of various spots might show something , I hope you are successful . cheers Steve b
  14. steve b

    Driving lights late 2018 update please....

    I have KC Daylighters for long range ( now over 30 years old !!) and a quick search shows they are still available as halogen sealed beam and also LED . I've never had to replace a sealed beam unit either . They do need a good power supply / relay set up . cheers Steve b
  15. steve b

    Injector Pump Noise

    Good to hear that it was found cheers Steve b

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