Jimsky Korsokov

Yep, my original issue was that having put it back together I'd stupidity left out the through chassis bolts (no fixed nuts). I had considered chopping the bolts to exact length but didn't think I'd be able to accommodate the big washer and nut against the fuel tank - it is bloody tight. Thought that since I'd got it back together again once that I could do it again ..... I was wrong. I've now received the Paddock spares (£87 all in delivered and VAT) 6mm Aluminium bolt from the underneath fuel tank guard - it is beautiful and shiny. Only problem left is cleaning the galv out of the new rear cross member so I can actually get the x3 M10 bolts in.

Wise words - I did find the previous owner had done exactly as you said and cut a hatch over the pump (he’d done lots of very good things like that). I was putting in a new short cross member so the tank had to come out. Ironically I did manage to get everything reassembled after 2 hours of wiggling, jacking, grunting, and light swearing - only to find I had not inserted the tow eye bolts - that was a bad moment of tealisation! Took everything out .... but could not repeat the stunt - awaiting arrival of underbokted plate from paddocks - life will be good again soon. Feel like I’ve been a few rounds wrestling a bear!

Thanks guys - that all makes good sense. I have seen a good rear cross section replacement article where they chose to go 'down from the top' rather than 'up from below' - now I understand a good reason why. I looked at the YRM guard - looks nice in 6mm Aluminium but at nearly £180 posted its a bit rich for me. Determined to ditch the existing plate and reconfigure for a downward take out next time - Paddock Spares do a good looking 6mm Aluminium guard for the TD5 90 which comes in at £87 including VAT and postage. I'd easily pay that to avoid having another go with what I've got. On order now and have stuck everything else back on in anticipation of an easy job. Thanks for your help - really appreciated. Jim

Thanks Western, that could help with assembly and I'll give it a go. Looking at the modding options from Paddock spares I see their replacement guards bolt on from below (rather than having to be positioned on top of the rails) which should make everything much easier (just a jack to help position it and then pop the bolts in). Don't think it will be the last time I ever remove the fuel tank so probably worth investing £60 in a new guard - looks a lots nice too being carved out of thick aluminium. The current configuration looks like its designed more for assembly from above rather than dropping out below. Thanks again, Jim

Defender 90 (2002) TD5 - Really struggling to refit fuel tank and tank guard. Any tips greatly appreciated. There's just so little space to work in. Got the tank located but getting the guard into position seems impossible. Struggled for ages to get the front located over the chassis carriers but it all fell out went i tried to edge it forward to get the cross member studs in place. Big hammers, jacks, blocks of wood ...... should it really be this difficult? Thanks, Jim

Seat belt mounts https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/162929199111?chn=ps&dispItem=1&adgroupid=58814348784&rlsatarget=pla-411722232870&abcId=1133916&adtype=pla&merchantid=6995734&poi=&googleloc=1006631&device=c&campaignid=1057745162&crdt=0 But there are also (on my 90) 2 short stubs that connect the underside of the rear mount point to the rear cross member http://www.defender2.net/forum/post476509.html Not too sure of equivalent for Series 3 109

Thanks - that's good to know. ARBs ordered - weather improving - rear cross member in position - looking good for the summer

I put 4 of these from Exmoor trim in the back of my 2002 Defender 90 TD5 - wanted the kids to have a bit more comfort for long journeys than the bench seats. They are excellent - really well made, comfortable, and so long as you create a good hold-up bracket, store really close to leave the entire cargo bay free for stuff. The high back does obscure side windows a bit - but a small price to pay. https://www.exmoortrim.co.uk/inward-facing-fold-up.html I also installed each with a retractable lap belt - fortunately I already had the seat-belt bar fitted to mine so an easy job. https://www.exmoortrim.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?cat=0&q=retractable+lap+belt Not the cheapest job - but at least the kids get excited about going on holiday in the Landy rather than dreading it (I used to be taken long journeys with only the metal arches to sit on - that would be classed as abuse today).

Thanks for confirming this - I'll buy the ARB kit and hand the brackets over to a fabricator to make me up a spacer system that works for everything. Appreciate the help

Hi, I really appreciate the info and pictures. My tank is out so I could get in there and weld some nuts on. Alternative could be to drop a stainless bolt down from the top and put a nut and spacer under the bracket - I’m assuming here I need a 1” spacer because I have a 2” lift. odd combo I know, but doing more road miles now but still hanging on to the idea of OR adventures in the future. Figure removing ARBs is easier than removing / reinstalling lift. thanks again

I'm going to fit Anti roll / sway bars front and back to my Defender some time in the future. Whilst fitting a new short leg rear chassis cross member, because the tank guard and tank were removed I thought I'd just check the ARB mounting 10mm head bolts would undo ..... they all sheared off (lucky I checked).I've ground them out now but have some questions I'm hoping you can help me with:1. Is it essential to weld on new captive nuts (I can't remember if there is access enough for getting a spanner in behind once the fuel tank and guard is back in place?2. Does anyone do a nice tapped stainless backplate and bolt combo (like the ones you can get for fitting the front bumper with stainless bolts)3. Is the ease of captive nuts essential if the ARB flips over?Ideally I'd like a solution that enables the use of Stainless Steel nuts and bolts,Cheers

I just installed a galvanised 'short-arm' one from John Craddocks. Its an exact match which means there are some great holes you can use as reference points for ensuring its in the right position. Sounds like you need something long .

Hi - I did this to mine after lots of research. The Diamondback controller is excellent - no chance of leaving these on as they mod the switch so that you can programme in a number of minutes for it to come on. http://www.paddockspares.com/diamondback-smart-heated-windscreen-wiring-kit.html I got a great local chap to install - normally I'd do it myself but I was afraid for my new windscreen with the elements in. I'm glad I did. He used the paracord method and was meticulous (Evesham Windscreens I think). I changed the rear screen at the same time and he did both for £70 - very reasonable. The WARNING is be careful what window seal you buy. He did not rate the BritPart one (actually he refused to come if I had one of those) - claimed they were really inflexible and difficult to install. Mine was not genuine and did cause a bit of grief but the overall result is excellent. Well worth doing.