Badger110
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Posts posted by Badger110
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They may be aftermarket wiring for heated seat pads, possible exmoor trim? They don't look original colours and certainly not the plugs.
If you release the solid plastic trim at the base of the seat pad, you can remove the cloth trim from the seat and see if you have heated pads fitted.
A quick google shows these on Ebay;
Plugs look similar and they even show you how to wire them up
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I’m not denying their stuff isn’t good, just that you can get it elsewhere cheaper.
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Tidy job that 👍
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4 hours ago, landroversforever said:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F254213746064
this looks great in the pictures... until you get inside and it’s got random bits of poo brown leather that looks like it’s been sewn by a child 🤮
oh dear....
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3 hours ago, Happyoldgit said:
Out of all the Land Rovers I've had the 2.6 LWB remains one of my favourites.
I am still itching for a petrol engined Landy. I started with the 19j, then a 200tdi, next up was a td5 and now a puma but i'm hankering to go the other way and get a petrol...
5 hours ago, Ed Poore said:Well I went to see it yesterday and it did nothing to reduce the want...
It was a veritable treasure trove down there. Original 3 door classic very rust free, another 3 door classic rust free shell and chassis, 109 straight six with safari roof, Disco pick up, a P38 and my old L322. Damn it, so many good finds.
Thankfully it'll take a while to sort paperwork and just need to negotiate a price.
Just being curious, but is the 109 up for sale?
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109 with a straight 6 sounds tempting...
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Brilliant work Steve, I would never think to use 6mm rod to make a basic shape outline first, clever idea👍
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It's usually marketing from JLR or dealerships.
It's why some folk buy a Defender for the name and wash it constantly and place sawtooth alloys and an expedition roof rack and secretly call themselves Bear grylls...
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I find mudstuff items overly expensive for what they are, unfortunately no one else at the moment does an off the shelf console for the roof.
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1 hour ago, Arjan said:
Good luck with the project !!
Not sure about the Dormobile roof..
I am very, very fortunate to be on this forum and a roof section is en route as I type from the UK to France for me to use for the 110 lift roof conversion.
Yes, IF people want, I'll start a tread here..
I looked at the various variations for roof pop ups and the dormobile just gives the most space and lightens up the rear as well with the extra windows in the shell.
Price wise they're very reasonable as well and a 2nd hand one being rare as rocking horse poo, even cheaper.
The work involved getting this one to fit will be interesting as the roof is wider than the 110 body so will require re working..the flipside is it's GRP so easy to work with
I followed you thread and was going to offer to hold it for you down my way ( near plymouth so ferry over to France is down the road from me ) but i arrived late to the party and it has been sorted.
Would like to see what you come up with
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Weeeeellllll
The ambulance body got purchased before i got to see it, so alas, this porject will be on the backburner for a while until another one pops up on my radar.
In the meantime i shall begin a thread on how to shoe horn a Bedford CF2 dormobile roof onto a 110 in the not too distant future ( angle grinders and buckets of resin at the ready! )
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I'll be watching this as i've toyed with simple ideas with wood, but would like to see something made from GRP to make use of the spare room up top
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7 hours ago, Gazzar said:
Yes. You need something over the mass as well. I use camping mats. Two layers, different foams.
I've a TDI series, and can carry out a conversation with my slightly deaf wife at 50 mph (no overdrive), without shouting. So it does work to an extent.
I used flash band. A roofing sealant product.
My only issue is i’m the deaf one and the wife keeps shouting at me....
even when we’re not in the landy.
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I am abit late to the party and i'm glad you came up with a good solution which worked
I thought i would point out this little gem i came across not so long ago, it's a 500lb winch which works off a cordless drill.
Having lots of these drills about and various dodgy body parts, i find it a doddle to move stuff about
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The little mishaps are what make the journey to the finished product so memorable!
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Dyna matt stops vibrations by adding mass to a structure.
It isn't a sound barrier.
Placing it under the bonnet will do virtually nothing to reduce engine noise other than provide a very minimal sound barrier because there is more of an object.
It will reduce vibration in the bonnet itself which in turn can help reduce the noise created by the bonnet vibrating, but that is different to placing a sound barrier on the underside of the bonnet to reduce engine noise.
The proof of the pudding is in the way in which it has been applied. Plastering dynamat or any butyl mat onto the interior of a car ( or bonnet ) in such a way that it creates a full covering is a money making scheme using false promises to those gulible to have it.
Carefully placed strips of a butyl matt will create mass to a flimsy aluminum body panel and give the same affect as completely covering it.
However, these companies won't sell so much and thus less profit...
Correct engine noise reduction systems in cars don't use Butyl alone, they will use a mixture of different products.
My experience isn't in aeronautical ( had to check the spelling there! ) acoustic engineering, but it is in sound design for the hospitality sector
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3 hours ago, Retroanaconda said:
Alas it seems the idea of doing it in two pours (i.e. walls first and then the slab on top) is going to increase the cost significantly as both the local concrete companies will charge you for the full mixer truck even if you only have a part-load. As such it would be most economical for me to have a design that enables one pour as the two smaller ones will be far below a full load. I can do this by pouring the walls and the slab in one, however this will require laying the type 1 sub-base without the outer walls in place.
Can it be compacted with a chamfered edge on it so that I can taper the fill on the low side? Or will I need some kind of retainer to allow for proper compaction? I would assume the latter - I could build a timber retainer to compact against which is then removed prior to the pour, or even just left in there and buried under the slab (risk of rotting and settlement there though).
You could shutter around the sub base with concrete blocks instead of timber, this will remove the worry of the timber shuttering rotting over time.
When pouring, remember to pour the wall foundations first and then onto the base...ie don't shove it in the middle and sweat trying to push it onto the edges.
Have a chat with the guy on the mixer truck, they're usally pretty good if they know what you're trying to achieve and will be patient with you.
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2 hours ago, Daan said:
Since we talk so much about ambulances and campers, this weeks ebay finds are interesting:
Spendy, but nicely done:
I do question why people put dynamat on the underside of a bonnet
Probably the same people who think closing your eyes makes the lights go out!
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I purchased a set of chains ( Pewag ) for our Switzeland/Austria trip and although they weren't used, we did use them on an evening/early morning trip across Dartmoor. They are packaged well in their own box's ( a pair per box ) with clear, waterproof instructions and spare parts sealed up in bags.
I do confess to having never tried them before this point so i was very grateful for the above when you're kneeling in the cold trying to fit them and they are a fairly simple technique which takes less than 5 minutes with 2 of you doing it.
We were able to traverse a road with chains which was compacted frozen snow with no chance of doing otherwise. We were also able to tow other stuck vehicles off the roads so the snow plough could get through.
Driving is a different experience as you are fully aware they are there and the conditions warranted having them.
Personally i wouldn't go anywhere nowadays without them if i was mindful of freezing conditions.
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Just read this thread and there is some awesome work done here
I love how your mind works and you can see it in your head and away you go, top stuff
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I fitted a webasto which is fairly stright forward and looked at purchasing a Rover 75 thermo top for heating the block on our more northern trips through Norway and Finland, these are 12v control without worrying about plumbing into the vehicle electrics.
I did look at a shower set up with the hot water supplied via the thermo top, but there is a lot of work involved for something which you probably won't use much in the back of a 110!
I found the sepaerte propane gas showers a more suitable idea for a hotwater supply within the 110 ( or outside for a shower ). They're fairly compact ( no bigger than a power shower unit ) and if you're already running a gas bottle on board they will supply hot water pretty quickly.
I will get one when we move onto the next conversion but mainly use it for washing off muddy dogs!
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On 4/23/2019 at 2:37 PM, V8 Freak said:
I discovered similar in my drivers door in 2015.....
Rather than strip the door and welding I grabbed a bit of metal and made a temporary repair....
And it's still going strong !!! Not managed to find the time to sort it properly yet and last time I looked it was still all in the same place I left it...
That there is a proper Landy fix
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The only issue with bonding it other than welding is the stress causing the initial problem will break a bond over time.
Unless you can find a flexible bond of some sort...like a super strength CT1 !
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It transforms the living space having a pop up roof.
I’ve always been drawn to the Dormobile though, as the are better at utilising the space rather than a wedge design and allow more light into the rear area.
The downside to is the weakness of the roof for carrying anything as it’s GRP
The "Pass the Bucket" 4x4 For Sale on Ebay Thread
in International Forum
Posted
That is awful...reminds me of those pictures where they double the eyes, my brain can’t compute it!