Badger110
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Posts posted by Badger110
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35 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I'd be terrified of overspray ending up on the precious things if I was doing it indoors
precious things as in the beer fridge?
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A little more wood work progress today.
The hole in the roof is obviously a large part of the structure gone and other than the overall strength of the roof which will be beefed up with steel box section at a later date, i wanted to stiffen up the roof and allow the bellows frame to sit onto something substantial.
The idea is to follow the curve of the roof and have it ' sandwiched ' between 2 pieces whilst giving it some rigidness for the upper frame work to be latched onto.
Using 18mm phenolic BB plywood, i cut the first template out and fitted to get the curves correct or as near as
Obviously this is too large for what i want, so i slimmed it down to 40mm
and did another one for the rear
Next was to make the top part which is glued and screwed through the roof into the lower part
Firstly you will see the uneveness of the initial roof cutout, so this was grinded off to provide a nice clean finish.
At this point i was called away as we had an injured buzzard that needed assistance. After the vet's visit and settling him at home for the night, i was back into the workshop but didn't take any more pictures.
I'll add some tomorrow after i've doen the next bit of woodwork along this opening
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Sounds like it’s doing the job well for you 👍
Have you looked at any of the other 12v range?
Having a autoimmune disease all my life and the nature of my jobs, I’m very wary of how heavy tools impact your body when in use. I switched to using mainly 12v tools and leaving the 18v unless I really need it
12v grinders for metal work are so easy and light with a decent amount of power to tackle most panel work or bolt cutting without the weight of heavier 18v or 240v versions.
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How're you getting on with your actuators?
I've ordered some off Ebay, they claim to be suitable for the weight i'm lifting and surprisingly they are identical to the manual rams currently fitted, so i'm
hopingpraying for a simple swap and away i go! -
Watching with interest
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Ordered some Linear Actuators to replace the spring loaded arms.
Direct size replacement with a 150kg lifting load per arm, the roof being about 65kg and there being a pair, they should be more than adequate.
Fitted the bellows material to the roof, lots of silicone adhesive along the joints and fitted the aluminium strip to the inside this time.
This should be pretty bullet proof as much as sticking material to a GRP roof can be!
Outside edge;
inside edge;
Once the material was done, it was time to redo the timber frame for the base of the material.
I used bits n bobs to get the template correct the other day but this time i cut it from a single sheet. The drip edge was formed using cable conduit with a 1/4ish cut out;
This then sits on the edge like this;
I also re cut the hinge timber with phenolic ply, that's currently glued and clamped, i'll post up pics when ready
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Mine is due for renewal and in the past I’ve been lucky and unlucky.
unlucky as it’s a defender on car insurance so I have no ncb’s
lucky because some insurance companies see it as a van and thus I get it under a van insurance with 11 yrs ncb. ( it’s a USW )
last year I couldn’t get it with anyone as a ‘ van ‘ so had to go with a car insurance
This year, with additions to it, I shall go with either AF or NFU
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Lights in
central strip light will probably be on with the interior lights and an override switch
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I don’t know the company other than driving past and seeing muddy trucks outside the building so can’t really comment but there has been some concerns lately about them.
facebook post yesterday regarding them doesn’t look good
i cant share here, I’ll pm you
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11 hours ago, KrisDR said:
Stephen nails it. Exactly my experience, to the letter almost
As far as the new Defender is concerned, I like everything about it except its price.
The discussion Here is almost copy/paste of the heated debate I participated in back in the day when Porsche decided to abandon the air cooled engine. I am, was actually, a long time air cooled driver but I can also accept that continuing with the old concept would have been suicide. I still love the smell and the noise of the old generation but I also realize that the new 911 is better in every aspect.
‘The same happened when I worked for Harley Davidson, the water cooled V rod was the start of something very different for the company.Turned out that it didn’t follow the same story with being better than the air cooled V twin, you just can’t replace that.
It also cost me my training spot in Milwaukee, but I wasn’t bitter and left the company a year later...but that’s another story.
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Edge is down the road from me, I imagine they ship the kits from overseas hence the delay.
they are a small workshop/garage set up.
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Whilst waiting for the roof paint to arrive, I figured I’d do things a little backwards and finish the interior roof of the GRP shell.
The main roof was wheeled outside for some room and it was time to start
Firstly was the introduction of a spinning vent in the roof. When travelling with dogs ( big ones as well ) they tend to pant a lot causing moist air to accumulate in the Landy so I wanted to fit one of these vents to help with airflow inside.
Drilling a 100mm hole in a perfectly good roof is definitely a measure
twicethree times and drill once moment and in case you’re wondering what that looks like, here’s a picture
It was drilled in the only place possible but in hindsight, it could’ve done with being on the other side of the central rib due to the light position which I worked out after I drilled the hole.
We live n learn
The internal ‘ceiling ‘ was lined with wadding to soften it and I fixed the cables for the lighting at this stage too. 1 flexible necked light in each upper corner and a single 1metre strip light along the middle
I also sleeved the vent hole to stop moisture being introduced to the insulation of the roof with an old aluminium pipe carrier I cut up
here’s another wadding picture
After the wiring and wadding was done it was time to fit the carpet
This is my first attempt at this sort of thing and the result is alright.
The larger windows around the edges needs tidying up as they don’t come with surrounds like the smaller ones, but I’ll come up with something for them.
There is a 15mm gap all around the edge which allows the fitting of the bellows to the roof and illl show how that goes in another post
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and thus it becomes clear
https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-rover-defender-body-chassis/body/rear-body-upper_52730#1
Standard fitting on some models perhaps
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Well that's interesting.
did yours open?ignore that, i can see they don't. -
I liek these windows but i've never seen them before.
Are they standard or aftermarket?.jpg.894c1406c0c8971daa29e30ad96f8273.jpg)
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53 minutes ago, RedLineMike said:
id suspect @uninformed will need to have his mods signed off to be plated in Oz
That would explain the need for an engineer
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Not rolled, but surprised.
i could never work out emoji pictures too well
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Narrow tracks were built to follow the wheels of series axles widths
wide tracks were built to follow defender axles widths
Narrow tracks are older with older brakes, tow hitch set ups but built like brick **** houses
wide tracks are newer running gear with disc brakes on the latest versions
I reckon unless your going to be using them at the maximum loads, either one will suit your needs
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On 1/19/2020 at 12:07 AM, uninformed said:
Its also helpful for my engineer.
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Why is it when you're on a roll, something turns up and you end up doign soemthign completely differetn?
Finally managed to clear the workshop and get rid of 2 trips to the tip's worth of stuff, but in the meantime i did manage to resin the edges of the internal timbers and get the internal grp all sprayed up.
Next on the list is to re spray the entire roof in Buckingham Blue, the same as the truck itself.
I'm ordering some paint from Ebay ( https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-BUCKINGHAM-BLUE-796-2K-SOLVENT-BASECOAT-CAR-PAINT-MIX-READY-FOR-USE/303252110700?hash=item469b3bfd6c:m:m1Yp1JwaQ_SJkfStkyyzcwg ) which look sok for what i want.
I've nto done this sort of thing before so it'll be a learning curve. I'll keep you posted with some pics as i go along
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Aco drains are the norm for the drainage side in front of the doors, however if you can slope the slab away from the doors and fit the aco further away, then you are removing the notion of any standing water near the doors ( if they're wood )
I think the key is to be able to seal the bottom of the door to stop draughts etc entering the workshop as well being waterproof to some extent.
Having a flat entrance will pose difficulties in sealing and water resistant as over time, things move.
Our up and over garage door has a flat piece of rubber at the bottom to reduce draughts and water ingress, but we also have a small step ( 15 mm ) that the door sits against which helps hugely in water getting in
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@Sigi_H please explain your avatar
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When i purchased our swingaway, i was told it was an original for drop down tailgates ( MOD stock ) and came with a plate to pick up the door when mounting to a standard door.
It is for a S3/90/110/Defender, not sure it'll fit the 80 as your tailgate bracket may be in the way, but i can take some measurements for you
It's bolted at the cross member and at the capping point...however not sure how it would clip to a tailgate, but i'm sure there is a way
If your interested in it, let me know. £50 and it's yours but you'll have to sort postage or courier 👍
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Defender 110, a Bedford cf and a utility truck walk into a bar...
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
After our buzzard rescue, it was time for the wife to injure herself at work and we spent last night at the MIU having her foot looked at. It wasn't great, ligament damage in the foot so she's on her arse for the next few weeks which means i'm doing horse care, dog care and everything she used to do as well as build the Landy...It's a good job i love her
Tonight, i spent the time finishing off the phenolic ply suround for the hole itself. It's screwed and glued all the way around. Next job is to 2 part filler the holes, sand down and primer.
Originally i wanted to GRP the roof onto this upstand, but with the difficulties presented with GRPing onto an aluminium roof, i'm taking the gamble that using good flexible adhesives to help attach the timbers to the roof as well asfixing and clamping the roof between both timbers i reckon i'll be good. This area will onyl be exposed when the roof is up.
I'll also seal around the timber with whatever they've used to seal between the roof panels, it seems to accept the paint very well. I have no idea how the timber will accept the paint, but i'll primer it first.
A side note on the phenolic ply as i'm using it in a few places on the build. I typically use Buffalo Board which is a brand of phenolic plywood. it is made with Birch play and rated at about BB/B ( BB/A is the highest and used in joinery work, especially where it's imperative to have a perfect finish and laminate ) some times it can be a little lower on some of the laminate sheets like shown here;
This can look bad, but given the use of the plywood as a structural system, it's not a concern for me.
Last week the local suppliers dropped off an 18mm sheet and with my mind elsewhere i cut it into the sections i wanted and carried on, but when i came to use it, it failed.
teh strongest part of plywood is perpendicular to the laminated sheets. This gives the maximum strength in fixing. However in this build i need the phenolic finish to be the facing side so it requries me to drill through the laminates. On the sheet i received last week, this showed the lower grade BB plywood i had by splitting along the laminate;
When you compare this to the standard stuff i usually get you can see the difference. The lower section is Buffalo Board and drilled/countersunk near the end of the board, the upper is drilled and countersunk halfway along. The top one has failed.
Also i noticed the top layer was delaminating under the protective cover;
To sum up, if you are using timber for structural work, then buy the best you can. Although i paid the same price and the suppliers were happy to replace the sheet with the correct graded BB phenolic plywood, it pays to check your sheets. The cheaper sheet was ( apparently ) from Asia, which doesn't even prodcue BB plywood! Chinese knock off anyone?!
The hinge bracket was made yesterday with the inferior plywood, so that is in the bin for fire kindling now and it was time to make another one up.
If you've been following from the beginning, you will know that the GRP bedford roof is larger than the Landy roof with wise. It's about 65mm each side. I have sat and thought long and hard of how to get over this, spent some time chatting with people on here about doing it and with a local company who specialise in GRP repair and boat building, but i decided against cutting the roof and removing a section.
Instead i have decided to ' extend ' the roof width at a few points to allow to the GRP roof to be unmolested. Once the awnings are fitted eother side of the Landy, then you'll probably not really notice the extra width.
I'm pretty good with wood ( wood butcher by trade ) so i'm happy with this decision. Once i made this decision i went along with a tapered timber section which will be bolted through the roof and onto a similar one on the inside to give it some strength.
I will probably change the set up inside to have this bolted through the roof and onto part of the box section framework that it is to take the linaer actuators and strengthen the whole hole in the roof.
So the external frame mock up to take the hinges looks like this;
I was looking at replacing this with a nylon beam which i could taper to match but the cost isn't cheap ( £185 for the rough size )
We're back to the phenolic which will be used to replace the piece of 3x2.
I ripped down the ply into 40mm strips;
Then plenty of glue and clamps and time to leave it to go off overnight;
That's it for tonight
Cheers