Badger110
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Posts posted by Badger110
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I can't see you removing much with a 12v tbh, the torque isn't very high.
They are primarily designed for screwing screws into timbers or aluminium studs.
My 18v will remove the studs on the Landy, but even then it can be a sod with the odd rusty nut
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Recip saws are for a multitude of jobs, but the one listed is abit OTT for garage work.
A 12v version, similar to mine from Bosch (https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-gsa-12-v-li-12v-li-ion-coolpack-brushless-cordless-reciprocating-sabre-saw-bare/140FG?tc=VA7&ds_kid=92700050610921491&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1244066&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249484&ds_rl=1249796&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgaGW1v_25gIVybTtCh1WmgwbEAQYASABEgJaKvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds )
is more then enough for stubborn bolts with a decent blade. You are replacing the hacksaw here, not felling trees
Don't use a Fein or any multitool for cutting bolts...you'll spend a fortune on blades as they blunt too quickly with the heat and wear, heavy use is not what they're designed for.
Multitools have a use for cutting close to the ground, wall, sanding corners or generally being half good at some things.
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Copious amounts of insulation fixed to the roof in the wee gaps caused by the shape of the roof itself.
This is being flattened with a multitool and covered with a plastic sheet to eliminate condensation coming through onto the plywood which will be the base for the ceiling finish.
Around the window areas i will need to come up with a finish of some sort...
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No pics today as I’ve been getting the Landy ready and doing a few bits done as we’ll be collecting a Dandy trailer tent from oop north tomorrow...12 hour round trip here we come😐
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4 hours ago, David Sparkes said:
That is incorrect.
The BMW i3, and I am sure many other pure BEVs, have only one motor, in thiscase driving the rear wheels via a differential and unequal length drive shafts.
I'm not sure about the 'motor per wheel' solution you advocate; it creates a terrific unsprung mass to control, but putting the electric motor output through 'standard' gearboxes is a recipie for inefficiency, therefore a waste of battery power.
Gear trains get hot as power passes through them, the power taken to produce that heat comes from the power source, whether an IC engine or battery.
Regards.
I knew I had seen it somewhereindividual motors for each wheel.
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My thoughts on electric cars are they are built with power to individual motors which control the wheels and not as a ' replacment ' for the diesel/engine with one single motor?
I do wonder if you were to use a single motor into a gearbox of a Series/defender/disco like some have said here, the motor wouldn't work no where as efficient as 4 seperate motors to the indiviual wheels.
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Reading back, i haven't mentioned that i have had a replacement material made for the bellows.
This stuff is used for boat covers, is UV reisistant, waterproof and is a maroon colour....or purple...abit like an aubergine, but it changes colour when you look at it from a different angle.
Anyway, i like it so pics tomorrow.
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Work has a strange ahbit of getting in the way of everything else, including this build.
A rare week off ( ie turning my phone off after finishing the last contract over christmas ) has allowed me to revisit where i left off.
Firstly, the frame work that the roof sits on has been lowered so i can now open the roof whilst inside the garage. The other bonus to this is when i'm stood on the floor in the garage inside the framework, it's the same height as when it'll be on the Landy, so i get a good perspective of what everythign will look like.
Turning my first attention to the roof itself, i needed to replace the old batons which form the rail that the bellows fix too. For this i've used phenolic 18mm plywood ripped down to 30 mm strips. This stuff is pretty good as it's BB rated plywood to begin with, but it now has a finished, tough as nails, waterproof face. you can buy it as ' buffalo board ' and it's used in lorry trailers as they're base and a multitude of other things. As long as you seal the cut edges, it's nigh on waterproof.
Top piece is the original, bottom 2 are replacements.
After replacing the rotten batens ( mainly the one nearest the hinge which gets the least amount of air/sun etc ) it was time to fix them into place.
Originally they were held in place with fibregalss matting and resin, and over time they have moved somewhat and come unstuck.
This time i've fixed them into position with CT1 which is an adhesive used by the Royal navy to replace rivets in battleships and to stick just about anything to anything else...( i lied about the Royal Navy! )
This stuff is good. It can be used to stick concrete blocks to steel as part of tying it in when building a wall, it is that strong, so in my case i'm quite happy with it keeping the timbers in place, however i will be adding some more fibre glass and resin after the next part.
I will be ( tomorrow hopefully ) insualting the roof with some wadding and cutting 2 sheets of 9mm plywood ( not phenolic, just structural ) to cover the unsightly roof area. This will give some rigidness to the entire roof and allow me to fix lightweight objects ( lights, tinsel, snowglobes etc ) to the roof without going into the actual grp roof.
Once the plywood is fitted, i will seal around the edge again with fibreglass matting and resin and then fit the bellows, but i'll cover that a little later on.
Ta
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On 12/3/2019 at 9:27 PM, daveturnbull said:
Anyone know if the discovery 3 ones are canbus?
They are unfortunately.
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Excellent, thank you cackshifter, i've ordered a replacement
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I can’t locate a part number for the bush’s in the wiper motor, can anyone assist in locating them?
The one with the grey wire has broken
ta
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On 10/15/2019 at 8:42 AM, Arjan said:
Love cherrypickers...
Belt driven hydraulic pump in the A/C position is an option - this is obviously PTO driven.
Did you mention "Mazda engine".......... 😎
ow the feck do you get in and out of the basket?!
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It isn't at the moment due to work but there will be some time soon to start on it again as the work project is coming to an end.
I've cleared the workshop out ( again! ) to put the Landy in at the weekend and replace the cracked windscreen. Once that ( and fixed the non working wipers ) has been done, i shall be moving the frame and roof back inside and spending some quality evenings tinkering and moving forward with it
I do find dark evenings and working in the worshop with the radio on quite a satisfying way of life...
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On 9/24/2019 at 1:13 PM, L19MUD said:
Ironically this is a very similar concept to the 4x4 Iveco that popped up in the new Defender thread! British Leyland ahead of their time again!!
There's a new defender??
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On 9/17/2019 at 8:38 PM, dantastic said:
I did use my mates plunge saw a while back and I was blown away by it. The track is awesome.
I don't think I can stretch my budget to a Festool but I really want a cordless one. That bit is actually more of a need than a preference. If I'm adding a new battery system anyway I will add the DeWalt 54v.
I was hoping that I might be able to modify the base of the circular saw to use the track but maybe I should just cry once and buy the proper plunge saw.
I do have a track system for my bosch cordless circular saw which is gathering dust now, maybe google the Dewalt system to see if they do a similar thing?
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9 hours ago, dantastic said:
I have a big heavy corded circular saw but I'm going a lot of cabinets and finer work at the moment so I wanted something lighter and without a cord. All my other cordless tools are DeWalt so I really want to stay on the same battery system.
The Dewalt DCS391 seems to be the most obvious choice. (https://www.amazon.co.uk/DeWalt-165mm-Lithium-Ion-Body-Circular/dp/B006XBSXAE)
But what I really want is a track for it. It's for finer work where I need a clean edge and if I get a new saw I don't want to have to clamp a guide to the piece, I should just get the right saw for the job.
In terms of DeWalts offerings that's the only saw the size that I want but also on the same battery system so I'm really not sure what to do here. I know people make their own tracks out of ply but they are a bit **** as they also needs to be clamped down and they add to thickness. This makes beveled cuts tricky, I've tried this already.
So I don't really know what to do. Anyone any ideas or suggestions for other saws?
It does depend on your budget regarding other saws
If you want a track saw, ie a correct plunge saw and track then expect to pay £150 upwards. These will be corded jobbies.
If you want a cordless, then festool do one, which isn't too bad as you can double up on batteries with the tool depending on the job. Expect to pay £1000+ for a saw, track and at least 4 batteries ( they are doing a deal at the moment where you get a free battery ). Having owned one for some time, it wasn't worth the extra cost to have cordless, but some situations it did help, but wasn't a game changer.
Remember a circular saw like you have listed is completely different to a plunge saw which does sound like where you want to be. A plunge saw is quicker, neater and a damn site easier to work with than a circular saw. The track doesn't require clamping, just drop it on the timber and away you go. I've not used a circualr saw in 4 years since owning plunge saws.
All my tools are Bosch now and i can say the Bosch plunge saw is great, but Screwfix do their own brand of plunge saws fairly cheap and they do the same job as any other more expensive tool.It only comes with a 700mm track but you can buy extra ones should you need them.
Once you have a plunge saw, you probably will never use a circular saw again
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For what it is, it doesn't look too bad
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I think they mistakenly put an extra 0 on the price
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Horse trailers have a habit of bearings disintegrating when your going to a show with prize buggers on board.
Glad you got it sorted with the AA 👍
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I quite like it, it's never going to be a replacement, but for what they had to achieve, it's not too shabby to look at.
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She is normally quite cute
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Still sounds and performs like a defender
What do you do when struggling with enthusiasm?
in International Forum
Posted
I tend to walk away for abit, do something else and allow my brain to reset to the task.
It might take an hour or 3 months, but i usually come back and carry on.
Other than that, get some other bugger to do it 😁