task
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Posts posted by task
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I didn't say I liked the craftsmanship, I too thought the back axle looked a little iffy spring mount wise.
I might point out it has nothing to do with me, I just read about it a while ago!
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I know of that landie, deff wasn't built with snow in mind!
Slightly more info here;
http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=readersrides&action=display&thread=40056&page=1
I have to say, I quite like it.
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Was there supposed to be a photo?
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"Headlamp levelling and cleaning devices when fitted for HID or LED headlamps" - All in the wording, is the official line still to ignore HID retrofit then?
The line above reads to me that they will only be checking these devices when they are fitted, if they aren't fitted they won't check them.
Doesn't seem to have been any mention of the catalyst check a few places have highlighted, a visual check to make sure a cat is fitted rather that just relying on a emissions test.
I had also always assumed, seemingly incorrectly, that a split/missing/damages boot on a ball-joint was a fail. Either way it's good practice to replace one if it fails, they're not very expensive.
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In your hand book there should be a code, it relates to turning the key in the drivers door lock a number of times, at least that's what worked on my 98 V8
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Yep, I was agreeing with you task
For an extreme distance example...... http://boingboing.ne...i-shootout.html
I SO want to go there one day. Perhaps I should start saving!
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Don't forget if you make the router high power you will also need a higher power wireless card/adapter for the PC, no point transmitting high power from the base station if the pccan't transmit enough to get back.
Good antennas are really worth looking into, especially some external ones
You mean like the ones I quoted a page back?
My parents live in a rural location and receive their broadband through WiFi, over a distance in excess of a mile, so beaming to your garage should be of no issue. You don't need massive speed for your intended use so that works in your favour. There is a science to long distance WiFi, a few years ago I helped set up a long range connection for a guy who was shoving CCTV over WiFi using roughly the same principal.
As suggested above you can save money by re-using different routers and bridges with different firmwares and on different channels/powers to avoid interference. One of the "groups" I belong to has a member who managed to create a nice brown circle on the side of a evergreen tree by using a P-to-P connection on a massive power.
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two of something akin to this;
plus some cables, a router and a wifi bridge all of which can be bought cheap second hand as everyone wants super fast these days. The trick to reliable long distance isn't wringing every last bit of speed out of it.
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If you don't want to go with cable or homeplug then you could always use a point-to-point wifi solution, an antenna on the side of the house and an antenna on the side of the garage (assuming you have LOS) should be enough
Probably more expensive but saves running cable, you can bring the cost down by home-brewing some of the components and trawling ebay etc.
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http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=54100
Already a thread on this
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Sorry to hear about this, one of my worst nightmares.
Hope you get them back and I'll keep an eye out for any bits that look like they're from your classics.
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My first port of call would be the master, change that out and try it, then the slaves if that didn't work. A single faulty slave should still give some resistance on the pedal.
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Do you feel any resistance on the pedal at all?
Any difference on the pedal pressure between nipple open and nipple closed?
No air bubbles when bleeding out the nipples as normal?
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Oops! Shame, I gave away a running 2.25 5 bearing diesel engine a few years back, the that came out my Series 3.
Replacement engines are *cheap* though
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Cheers, I managed to get these fitted over the weekend and wired up OK
I scavenged the cable for the passenger side from a old RRC seat I had laying about but the drivers side was afflicted with a memory module so that became a complete re-wire so was handy to know they were the same as the RRC.
I also found the diagram on the RAVE CD in case anyone else needs it.
Took the opportunity to clean out the Disco and waxoyl it while doing so, now good for a few more years inside.
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Fibreglass backed headlining will probably be nationwide trim item, have the same in mine.
I do love this, it looks more awesome still with the front bumper raised
Did you manage to find yourself a dash vent?
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Working from home I don't really have a daily commute, unless you count walking down the hallway past the dogs bed
I'll get a photo of my weekly sojourn into Nottingham tomorrow, not that it's much fun :/
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when bleeding, if the pedal is applied a lot of foamy airy fluid comes out.
Well, that sounds a little wrong.
Either there is air in the system or you're pulling air in.
Is the fluid reservoir remote or sat on top? Could be a dodgy joint pulling air in.
Far more likely is that you've still got air in the system.
Start from the shortest run and bleed to the longest (front N/S, front O/S, rear N/S, rear O/S from memory) and keep going till no air or foam comes out.
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What happens if you crack a bleed nipple and apply the pedal?
My Series 3 bleed procedure involves a milk bottle and a length of tube, I watch for the bubbles to stop and then know the air is out.
Do you get fluid through all the nipples?
When you replaces the slave cylinders were they like-for-like? no increase in capacity?
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haha, thanks
I do have the feeling that this may end up being preferable to the actual wiring!
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I have some electric seats, some seat switches and a Discovery but I don't have the wiring loom or diagram to wire all this together.
Does anyone know how these are wired or have a link to a document?
Alternatively, does anyone have a loom they'd be willing to sell me?
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Started watching this but the hotel wireless is horrific, will have to wait till I get home.
I don't remember driving chirpet lane but have driven some of the others shown, haven't come across any of these NIMBY'S before either, apart from one pub that refused to serve us food as we were "some of those off-road lot".
First the 4x4's, then the motorbikes, then the push bikes then the horses. Before long it'll just be walkers.
It makes me sad and angry.
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Are you sure the 2 door is not an 1983? It has the wrong door tops for a 1993 2 door model. It should have the same wing mirrors as a 4 door RRC, although the rear windows look correct for age so it could be that the door has been replaced.
The bonnet has certainly been replaced at some point too.
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Or, just get another RRC for use on the motorway
tyre recommendations; V8 Disco 1
in Discovery Forum
Posted
So, the tyres on my disco are nearing the end of their useful life. Had them for just over 2 years and they've covered around 30k miles.
they're Pirelli Scorpion STR's.
I'm wondering what to replace them with, 2 years ago this was my only car and had to cover all bases from greenlanes to 1000's of motorway miles and the daily commute.
My circumstances have changed somewhat, I have the series 3 for local green lanes and the CSK for summer tarmac use. I also now work from home.
This all means I can fit something a little less road-bias to allow the discovery to be used on green lanes further away and perhaps local in the event the Series 3 is bust.
I don't want crazy mud tyres or a lot of road noise but can afford to give up some road manners if needs be.
The Disco will still be my daily drive so I want something that can be driven on the motorway without issue.
So, what do people have fitted? What would you fit again and what would you avoid?
Cheers