task
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Posts posted by task
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excellent task,
So I take it they have no issues with older vehicles then ?
Have a good trip _ fancy doing Eastern Europe too sometime.
Probably should have mentioned I'm doing it a 1991 Range Rover Classic
The best part is their membership cover was less than what the RAC wanted to cover the two weeks in Europe and ADAC cover the UK too.
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I'm going to Romania next month via France, Germany, Austria and Hungary.
Using ADAC as advised by people on here and other forums, pretty good cover for the price too, there's an English speaking telephone number too.
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From what I've read and seen (a friend has some fitted to a 4.6 in a classic) then the exhaust ports are a different height so you need to modify the exhaust.
As Bowie says, a lot of the other parts are different including the rocker covers, so make sure it's all there.
To get a true benefit you need to change camshaft and possibly port the inlet manifold, ideally you'll need to re-tune your ECU however they will work without doing all that stuff and you would see a gain.
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Keep a log of the times you're doing grinding in a diary or book, also keep a log of any noise he makes including stuff like mowing the lawn, garden party, playing music.
That way if it comes to any sort of action you have "evidence" you're not being unreasonable and you can, should you wish, launch a similar complaint about his actions.
As mentioned by many before, it's best to remain civil in these matters as you're still going to have this guy as a neighbour once the job is finished, however, you shouldn't feel like you're unable to practice your hobby in the confines of your own home.
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I've ended up spending some cash and going for the bling allisport one.
Will strip the plastic tank from the CSK and fit to the Disco and fit the allisport one to the CSK when it arrives.
V8Freak - The level isn't visible on the black one either but I have a working level indicator on the CSK so not much of an issue.
Fridge - did consider that as I could have "borrowed" the one from the '81 I have waiting to be restored but I think the hose fittings are different and I believe I'd need some different fitting points.
Cheers for the advice
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The header tank on my Disco has decided to go the way of many duo's and split, lots of steam and bubbling while pulling into the car park.
From reading about the net and speaking with people this seems to be a fairly common occurrence with the plastic 200/300/V8 headers.
Allisport sell a lovely looking bit of kit for a lot of cash, paddocks sell something that looks decidedly worse for a lot less. I have the same header tank on the CSK and am now mildly paranoid that it's going to let go in the same way whilst I'm in the 30deg+ heat of Romania so am probably going to replace that one too.
My current line of thinking is to replace the CSK header and use the old one from the CSK on the Disco, as it's only ever used for plodding around once or twice a week.
Any experience of the cheapo header tanks? Are they made of cheese and likely to fail quickly?
Any experience of the allisport ones, do they fit back using the same fixings as advertised?
Am I just being paranoid?
Thoughts welcome
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I think most people reach a low point in a build, for me it's during the slog-fest of welding and I normally start to gain motivation when bits start going back.
Focus on a part of the rebuild you're excited about or enjoy, if mechanical parts are your thing then clean up the axles/engine/gearbox. I find a great motivation from bolting nice shiny parts back on.
If it helps I'm going over from the UK to Germany via Dunkirk/Belgium in July, I'd have some space in the car for parts on the way out but I'm not actually stopping till I get to Nuremberg (other than for some food and fuel stops).
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Welcome
I have just ventured into the world of MG with my current restoration project;
I hope I won't get my hand slapped for posting that!
I rate this forum as the best Land Rover one available, I really wish there was something similar for the MGB available.
There are a few people from Kent on here, my friend lives near Gillingham and drives around in a Series 3 when it's working, my GF also comes from that neck of the woods so I'm down that way now and again
Unfortunately I sold my Series 3 earlier in the year
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My electric seats were on the 4 spacers, if you can remove them it would maybe give you an inch or two. I've changed the drivers seat to a manual and will do the passenger one when I get around to it.
Anyone know if you can swap the electric winders for manual?
In the quest for leather manual seats we recovered some manual seat frames with the leather from a pair of later electric ones. Worked quite well!
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The earlier seats used to sit on 4 aluminium spacers, I'm not sure if the electric seats did too. I'm 6'5 and of a larger frame so my first port of call would be to remove these spacers from the seats on my own vehicles.
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I can only echo the above, I don't know you but I have always enjoyed your posts and like to think there is some kind of "forum kinship". It must have taken a lot of courage and shows a true strength of character. I wish you the best and hope that the days get brighter!
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That is exactly what I should have done with mine although I'm glad I kept the original one even if most of it isn't that original any more!
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My projects end up at my parents house currently as I just don't have room at mine! The GF and myself are looking for a new house, she's already looking at places in the countryside with large garages and plenty of land.
Parked up at my parents I have the MGB GT V8 I'm building and the '81 In Vogue waiting in the shadows for some attention.
Simon, thought this might be of interest to you;
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I run a 1998 Discovery on a single point system and have done for 70k+ miles. It's been fine and has served me well.
I've just converted my RRC to a multi-point Bigas system, this gives a superior drive but the main reason for fitting it was to compliment the other engine upgrades I had already done. If it had been a standard engine I would have seriously considered a single point for the simplicity.
A third option is a BLOS type inlet, these are apparently very good and don't suffer from the same restriction issues the venturi draw through place upon the inlet.
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SNIP
What he said
The posts, albeit mad, are interesting and entertaining.
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As I said on your other thread they're "vavled" differently because air springs behave in a different manner to coils and therefore require different damping. Not to mention the front shock being mounted differently. There's a reason that EAS shocks have a different part number
Which suppliers are you referring to?
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No worries
The shocks fitted with the air suspension are different to those fitted to coil sprung models, they're valved differently and the front ones are also fitted in a different location. I would certainly be replacing them. Added to that they're likely to be the original ones and would benefit from a refresh.
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The canister is part of the emissions/fuel breather. It's filled with carbon.
The conversion is fairly easy, we did my Dad's not too long ago (much against my suggestion I might add).
Rear - you'll need new dampers/springs/spring seat/spring retainer/bolts
Front - you'll need the above + a new shock turrent and retaining ring to swap shock position.
It's then a case of remove the old equipment and add the new.
Before spending too much money I'd have a good poke around and look at the normal rust places.
Picture 3 is the valve control box mounted underneath the vehicle, once running on coils this can be removed.
Picture 4 is the air suspension ECU
If the body and chassis seem sound I'd replace the brake pads and check all the fluids before doing any serious miles, brake pads will be an easy job while you're under there sorting the springs (assuming the calipers are not seized).
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Many moons ago someone tried to nick my Series 2A from a car park in Derby city centre, they bent the door top open and ripped the steering cowl off to try and hotwire it, being a 2A the ignition barrel is in the centre of the dash so that fooled them.
Instead they tried to exit by my locked rear door, which didn't open from the inside, and then booted the drivers side rear window out for no apparent reason. The light fingered scum managed to cut themselves on a bit of glass, which the police forensics girl (who was quite tidy) got rather excited about. They managed to catch the guy and I was informed he had some time added to his sentence for his actions.
I think the car would have been long gone had it been a Series 3.
Si, do you do any security products that would be suitable for a LT77 Range Rover Classic like gear locks or pedal guards etc? I would assume they're all unsuitable but it's worth asking.
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I took my bottom hinge off and re-pinned it.
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Yes, from TT. It all looks fairly straight forwards, it's replacing a system that's already there.
I'll get a few photos and update the CSK thread I have going when I do the swap.
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Bigas SGIS Kit.
So, Mulitpoint sequential.
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I'm actually changing the LPG kit on my classic this coming weekend, I shall attempt to take some photos and do a little write-up if you think you'd find it of use?
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Does it have the full-width main bearings and the lugs for the cross-bolts?
I've had a few of the interim engines apart, some have holes for 14 bolt heads and some just for 10.
It wouldn't surprise me if they just sapped the castings over for the blocks but didn't fully machine the block for the later front cover.
The dreaded BLUE Box strikes again
in International Forum
Posted
I refuse to fit Britpart these days after so many items being incorrect, that's a rather impressive level of fail on their part though, solid brake hose!
A few years ago a good friend had a cracked inlet manifold on his series 3 2.25. He bought a replacement item in a bluebox and spent the afternoon fitting it with a friend. When he tried to start the engine it just refused to go. Odd he thought so he did the usual checks for fuel etc, he thought his timing pump had been on the way out so he replaced that (not a great one for logic at times, my mate) but still it didn't fire. Eventually he stripped the engine apart again and discovered that the inlet manifold was solid, much like your pipe. Which would go a long way to explaining why it didn't work.