Chubby M

OK - thanks first to @Mo Murphy for the genuine LR part. now fitted and I've redone all my tests. Oddly - no change... the genuine part shows the same feed results as the original and the blue box part... still no feed at terminal 2 (glow plugs) until I get to position 3 (cranking)... I've tried to test every circuit over the last 48 hours... to say I lost is an understatement... I simply cannot understand how three switches all produce the same result, a result that is not what should be expected... Anyone else with any ideas please? I'm getting desperate now....... The truck used to start on the button, with the glow plugs, pre strip down 5 years ago. Huge thanks in advance... Chubby

Thanks chaps for your input and help. I've remeasured everything, tried moving the white / orange etc.. and no changes. Still no volts at position 1 on terminal 3 or 4 and no volts on terminal 2 at position 2 (glow plugs). I think this means the switch if faulty - 4 days old and duff (and yes came in a blue box) - £23 wasted..... I'll get another and try that and come back to you all. Question - would there be value / benefit in fitting a relay based feed to the plugs like the 220tdi? pricy as I need a new switch as well, but, is there any value in doing so? Off to find a good PRC2735 now....

Thanks all - spent a few hours going over this all again, I hope the below will help shed some light.... I am 100% certain all wires are in their original positions on the replacement switch - I was very careful here. The glow plugs used to work prior to strip down of the truck. I'm getting 14v at the battery - its only 4 months old. I have even had the entire fuse box out, checked and replaced fuses, cleaned terminals etc.... Ignition switch positions and voltages measured... not at all like the above... I am now very lost 😞 I don't appear to have any feed at position 1, my wire here is white and black (fine wire). There is a non used white / orange with a spade terminal in the loom - should this be on 1? I have no volts at position 2 at all. I thought this may be the switch hence changing it. Any ideas please? I've given up on the Haynes wiring diagrams too.....

Hi all, time for another perplexing query that I hope someone can help me with please..... 1986 110 CSW with a 19j unit onboard. Issue is with the glow plug Brown / Red cable from the ignition switch to the glow plug loom. I should be seeing ( I think) about 9 volts. I get a reading of almost zero volts at position 1 and 2, zero on position zero but 8.9 volts when I spin the engine over. The engine fires (eventually), all other circuits appear to be ok with dash lights etc. all present. just no volts at the plugs, I've replaced the ignition switch (PRC2735) as that had to be the only possible answer - surely..... All the wires are back to the original setting (2 for the glow wire etc.). There are no relays, fuses etc. in line from the switch to the glow plugs. I get a reading of 90mv on position 1 and 2, zero on position zero at the ignition switch end. What on earth !!!!!!!! I've checked every fuse, relay and traced the glow plug wire from switch through bulk head to the plug - no breaks etc... zero resistance across the entire length of the cable so should be good.... I've looked at some past threads that all seem 200TDI related and relay based. I'm missing something here or the Gods of Looms are punishing me for some unspeakable past offence... any and all input hugely appreciated. I simply cannot see a way through this... Huge thanks, some images in case they help. Chubby.

Yes - felt like quite a bit which I was surprised by. A bit trial and error bu running so much smoother too,... - no more fog machine 🙂

Gents - sorry to jump in on this but I'm having a very similar issue. I have a 19J Brown / Red from cycl4 and the yellow / blck carrier etc... When I stripped the truck (5 years ago - I know, not rushing this rebuild) the glow plugs worked like a dream, and oddly I have a small carrier wire from cyl 4 to the dash warning light. On reassembly I now have a running truck, but, no feed on the Brown /Red at cycl. 4. Warning lights etc. are on at ignition position 1 etc.. I can see no inline fuses / relays etc. that may have failed so I'm bemused. Any ideas please? Does the glow plug wire somehow pass through the master fuse board? (I've checked all the fuses and they look ok) IS there any other fail point? I've yet to strip the ignition and check that. Really appreciate any ideas as I'm now lost.....

Worked like a charm - thanks gents!!

Steve B ad Monkie, much appreciated. Ebay here I come.... thanks again chaps - very much appreciated. Chubby

Hi all, been a while but I've finally got a running truck (all be it still some rough edges). One bit I'm struggling with and could really use some sage advice... 1985 running with a 19J 2.5 turbo diesel unit. I had a LR specialist replace the timing belt / waterpump etc. as I couldn't get it done. I now though have a very blue fog machine - all revs, constant hot and cold not just start up etc... (bit disappointed....). The head is fine (I checked that before the rebuild, the oil scavenge rings / bores are fine. Replacement turbo which also looks to be fine and not leaking oil in the air flow. With a constant blue acrid smoke, hot or cold, I think my last port of call is the fuel injection timing - but I'm lost grand scale on this one. Haynes manual has confused the hell out of me. Can anyone please point me at a simple "how to" to 1. check this may be the issue and 2. how to adjust / retime if required. Really appreciate any thoughts. Chubby.

Hi Andy, while I can't help with the oil sender, could I ask a favour of you please? I see you have a 2.5td. I'm after a photo of the engine bay where the air-filter canister connects (to the chassis or where ever else...) After a re-chassis and loss of my photos I'm a bit stuck.. any photo much appreciated. Mark,

Gents, I'm sorry to ask a daft one today - but - I cannot find any mounting points or markers to allow me to replace the air-filter canister and tubing.... I know its nearside, very close to the rad cowling etc. but thats as far as I can get.. If anyone out there has a 19J and could please send me a couple fo pictures of the location and mounting of the air-filter canister I'd be massively grateful... I couldn't decode the Haynes narrative and a search of the web has, well been interesting but pointless... Huge thanks in anticipation.

Thanks Western - so Red from battery AND both brown rings on the same terminal. Cool and once again thank you!

Gents, last push now to get the motor running. I need some help please. I've looked for historic posts and am lost on the wiring diagram in Haynes. I have 28DJ coded starter motor - three obvious terminals. Three wires on the engine harness: White and red band (know where that one goes), large single brown and a pair of smaller brown. Where do these two connect please? Looks like a body terminal and possible something on the solenoid?? greatly appreciate any sage advice please...

Thanks Lo-fi - nuisance but better to know now. Replacement to be sought. Many thanks.

Evening gents, sorry another daft one as I get closer to turning the key on the full engine / g'box rebuild. The viscous coupling fan on my 19J - its missing the coiled spring I've seen on other images of the same... So daft one - is the coil important? Appreciate your continued assistance and wisdom...

Evening gents, another relatively daft question I fear but - as part of the ground up rebuild I'm replacing the exhaust on my 1984 110 with a 19J 2.5 turbo diesel uni (retro fitted 1986). Question - Do I need a CAT exhaust option (for MOT purposes etc.) or is a standard non CAT OEM set sufficient? I'm trying to keep costs and complexity down - simple it good.... Many thanks, Chubby M

Monkie, Western and Maverik - as always thank you for your invaluable support. Mark

Looking at the VIN, I have SALLDHM V - V 3.5L, V8 carb, petrol, Low Compression That surprised me..... looks like the 19J was added 1986/7 from what little data I have on the history.

Hi, sorry for another wiring drama but can anyone please help before I go insane... 1. Whats this 7 pin (one Male and 6 female) connector for please? Off the bulkhead loom, looks to have been largely unused other than reversing switch (Green Brown). Other wires (all females) are White, Yellow White, Lime Green, Purple Orange and Green. 2. These two female connectors Lime Green and White Orange. What are these and where would they connect? 3. Whats this Green (male) and Green Brown(?) female for and where on earth do they connect? Looks to coming from the gearbox - reversing switch perhaps? Looks like a rejoined wire to the Green may not be original. I can't make head or tail of the Haynes wiring diagrams and the card tags I attached 4 years ago..... whoops... Really appreciate any thoughts.

Gents, as always many thanks. Very helpful.

Hi, good afternoon. Question re front axle springs on a 110 (1984). I have inherited LR springs for the front axle (look to have been fitted 5 to 8 years ago with when new bulkhead etc. was fitted). They are standard length and look to be standard load. The longer one (by 10mm) is banded with white paint, the shorter with yellow banding. I've checked the archives etc. but could someone tell me which one is driver side please? Huge thanks again chaps.

I had the same issue with a 1984 110. I looked the replace the rear half but found I would be welding good metal to something as solid as cheese so I gave that up and sought a replacement whole chassis from a breakers yard (there are "challenges" with this approach I know), but my unit was superb and unblemished for £600, few minor mods like new engine mounts and jobs a good 'un. I'm still fighting with the full ground up rebuild but I know I have a very stable chassis now.

Boris113 - much appreciated, will give them a try.

Good morning all, quick one - can anyone point me at a LR breaker in Norfolk please? Really struggling to find some key (and heavy) bits and postage costs from Devon, Manchester etc. are getting a bit high..... Huge thanks in advance. Chubby M.

Gentlemen, many thanks for your swift and helpful input. Much appreciated.