David Sparkes
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Posts posted by David Sparkes
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As it seems to fit in with the pre-occupation of this thread ...
Today (Monday 23rd Nov 2020) the Daily Telegraph has an article, based around a Which? report.
https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2020/11/23/smart-doorbells-could-hackers-key-devices-inside-home/Non-subscribers may not be able to read it all, so I've saved it as a pdf.
Yes I have a Ring Video door bell, but it's for visual deterrent purposes.Smart doorbells could be hackers' key to devices inside your home.pdf
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This isn't about Adobe Reader compatability, it is about RAVE.exe compatability.
Two screen shots, do these help?
Regards.
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31 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
I thought everyone just used the extracted PDF's with no software requirement beyond a PDF reader of choice?
Everyone ELSE perhaps, I had the CDs so I used them, this approach also gives access to the Technical Bulletins, and all other miscellaneous files on the CDs.
Regards
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26 minutes ago, Snagger said:
... the UK just announced that no pure ICE vehicles will be registered from 2025, and the EU is looking to match that, so support for the car after that point will start getting harder and the resale value will plummet.
The OP is in North America, do you really think the USA (or Dubai for that matter) will follow the UK time frame?.
I also thought the date was currently 2030, and that referred to NEW fossil fueled vehicles, so one bought in 2020, or 2021, should have a good few years to run.
Regards.
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Ha!
I actually contributed to that thread!! I must be getting old 🙂
While writing my question I did wonder if compatability mode was the answer - it turns out it was - now tested and works.
I had also wondered if it was something to do with the withdrawal of Reader support in Dec 2020, but we shall have to wait and see on that one.Thanks again to the younger folks.
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The current story:
The other day I was prompted to fire up RAVE and discovered I'd get the Reader v4 splash screen, there is a pause, then the splash screen disappears, and that's it, nothing.I've been running RAVE CDs on my PC since 1999.The backstory:
Initially (1999) I ran the CDs themselves, but soon found it easier to copy each CD onto the hard drive.I've got versions 11, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, and 19, plus one or two oddball items like the 'Archive CD' which covered the Classic Range Rover, etc.
Initially the Operating System was XP, then I jumped to Windows 10 a few years ago.
Always I'd go into the folder for the CD I wanted, then double click 'RAVE.exe'. Adobe Acrobat reader v4 would open up and away I'd go.I manage all OS updates manually, but keep reasonably up to date.
I am left wondering if it's an Adobe update or a W10 update that has stopped the v4 Reader starting, so I thought I'd ask if others have had a similar experience.Regards.
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I saw the OP is in North America, where distances to Dealers tend to be larger than here in the UK.
This led me to wonder how far it was to the Dealerships of alternative vehicles, if you do not buy the Defender?
If they are all about 100 miles away, the distance can't really be part of the purchase decision.The predictable advice is 'buying a high end import is always likely to be expensive', especially when the LR reputation in reliability surveys is taken into account.
I wish I could be more positive.
Regards
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16 hours ago, smallfry said:
Lucky you can get an appointment at all. During the first lockdown I lost a couple of fillings, and was in agony. Knowing they were closed, I have manfully endured the unendurable for several months. A while ago I received an email, stating that they were now accepting limited appointments.
So I phoned them, and told them what has been going on, only to be told they were doing only "emergency" work. So, still being in agony, I asked what constituted an emergency then ? Receptionist got somewhat shirty.
A few days later I received warning me that I would be excommunicated if I carried on being "abusive" FFS
I still have the toothache.
I seem to recall there is an 'emergency dentistry' side of the NHS. I recall using them once, several years ago. I don't recall the full details so can only be of limited help.
However, I have just googled 'emergency dentist nhs', you might like to do the same. One option is apparently to dial 111.
Regards.
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I knew there had been a recently updated topic (10/11/20) about this subject on the Forum of the Series 2 Club.
The link to Page 1, note that it continues to page 6.
Hopefully this will help, either re rivet supply, tools, metal strips inside the seals, or homemade tools (sets 'stuck' to pliers).Regards.
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This isn't exactly what you want, but Aeon springs are now made by Timbren in the USA.
For spring Specifications see http://timbren.com/aeon-springs/The UK contact is Ride Solutions at http://www.rubber-suspension.com/
I haven't dealt with them for some years.
Regards.
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I think you will find that the Serie2 and 2A chassis were 4 plates welded at the corners; the two C section welded top and bottom were a later development.
QuoteAs long as they are well welded, holes in the right place and square then what makes one better than another in chassis terms?
You cannot rely on all those aspects being covered all the time, by any manufacturer.
Regards.
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1 hour ago, Bigj66 said:
Definitely different to what I have here, cheers 👍
The picture is one of the later versions, with a black plastic inlet manifold that conducted less of the high underbonnet temperature into the air being fed to the cylinder head. The earlier inlet manifolds were cast aluminium.
The manifolds are not directly interchangeable as BMW moved the mounting studs in the cylinder head when they adopted the change in manifold design.Regards.
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Two suggestions, look on You Tube for Classic Range Rover videos on Soup (Shackleton in this forum) and 'Rover Tasmania', the latter covers a 2door.
This 18 page thread details the production of the Soup videos.There is a 90 minute compilation Overview How I restored a classic Range Rover and saved it from the junkyard // SOUP Classic Motoring.
Regards.
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I've now found the bottom tank. I was going to take a picture, but it's raining, and I see the requestor joined on 21st October, and last visited on the same day, when he made his second post, so picture taking on 31st October seems a profitless excercise 🙂
Regards.
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'Cam specs' from the Workshop Manual, specifically 'AKM 8159 Based on 1968 edition. It incorporates all applicable workshop information circulated by means of Land-Rover Service News Letters up to Vol. 3, No. 2. '.
Apologies for the poor layout, I just copied and pasted rather than put it in a table.
I'll say now that in my view the only relevant item is the maximum cam lift. I think you need a damn sight more than that to design a totally new 'optimised' cam.
However, my knowledge of camshaft design came from the pages of CCC, so it's hardly up to date.
Camshaft (Petrol).
Journal diameter .. .. .. .. .. .. 1.842 in.-.001 (26,70 mm--0,025)
Clearance in bearing .. .. .. . . .. .001 to .002 in. (0.02 to 0,05 mm)
End-float .. .. .. . . .. . . .. .OMS t o .0055 in. (0.06 to 0,14 mm)
Cam lift--inlet .. .. .. . . .. .. 257 in. (6,53 mm)
Cam lift-exhaust . . .. .. .. .. .. .257 in. (6,53 .mm)
Camshaft bearings
Type . . .. .. .. .. .. .. Split, steel backed, white metal lined
Internal diameter (line-reamed in position) .... 1.843 in.+.0005 1.843 in.+.0005 (468 mm+0,012)
Camshaft (Diesel)
Journal diameter . . .. . . . . . . .. 1.842in.-.001 in. (46,8 mm--0,02mm)
Clearance in bearing .. . . . . . . .. .001 in. to .002 in. (0.02 mm to 0,05 mm)
End-float . . .. .. . . . . . . .. .0025 in to .0055 in. (0.06 mm to 0.13 mm)
Cam lift-inlet . . .. . . . . .. .. .262 in. (6.65mm)
Cam lift-exhaust . . . . .. . . .. .. .279 in. (I0.7 mm)
Camshaft bearing
Type . . .. . . . . .. .. .. Split-steel backed, white metal linedInternal diameter (line reamed in position) .. .. 1.843 in.+.0005 in. (46,81 mm+0,012 mm)
Regards.
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14 hours ago, Landrover17H said:
The issue is door-mirrors with S2 hinges, or not. ....
And don't even mention the price of the milly version of S2 hinges (with integral mirror-mount). last I looked £300 a set!
'Robin' on the Series 2 Club forum will modify your S2 hinges to include the mirror-mount; the supplier can specify the diameter of the hole, to suit their mirrors.
He also sells via Ebay.However, I share the view that true Lightweigt hinges are different to S2 hinges, so my comments above may not be applicable.
Regards.
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Regrettably I cannot find the one I'm sure I had. The radiator core and the split top tank were in the separate locations I thought they were, but the bottom tank has got hidden somewhere.
Good Luck.
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I appreciate this doesn't match exactly with the information you have given.
In the S2C forum there is a sub-forum to Workshop Wisdom called Service Data.
Scrolling down will find:Fan/Dynamo/Alternator drive belt
LR pn: 563132 or equivalent
belt is 1050 by 10 mm
For other engines (conversions) measure the path the belt takes in mm - Drive belts usually include the circumference in mm in the part number!
You need to measure the inside circumference, NOT the outside.
e.g. a 1050 belt will measure approx 1065mm around the outside circumference.You can also use the S2C Search facility, using the terms 'Fan Belt' and 'Show results as messages', but the 1050 measurement seems 'standard'.
Regards
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1 hour ago, Wytze said:
The spare for my 109 is 41.5 kilogram. Not sure yet where that will go.
The work isn't complete, but on my 109 I am placing the spare wheel in the tub at the nearside rear corner. I think it will be the easiest point to access however much stuff is in the tub. Mine will be a truck cab but I think the position is best whatever style of bodywork is fitted, tilt or hardtop.
Of course it's for my convenience, it doesn't mirror a factory installation.Regards.
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Join the Series 2 Club and then talk to the VRO (Vehicle Registration Officer). The Club are recognised as specialists by the DVLA.
You can do a lot of damage to your cause if you try and act independently.
Regards.
Fire Armour Limited at the address on the baadge seems to have covered various vehicles, as shown by these two images found via a Google Image search. These are important as they show the company existed.
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22 minutes ago, HoSS said:
... The only issue is that the suction is so large on my vac that it pulls the gloves taught and that makes life more difficult, perhaps a bypass to use only some of the vac pressure...
In my view the best alternative is to make the air inlet hole larger. This will give greater overall air flow through the cabinet, thus making dust extraction quicker.
Regards.
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I don't know if you can follow this link, access might depend on registering for the Forum, or worst case, joining the Club.
If you can access the Search results this is the link.
Ahh, tested and found it took me to the initial Search page, not the search results page.
I searched for 'Paintman doors', specifying 'Show results as messages' in all forums.Regards.
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Seeing that no-one picked this up yesterday I came to offer a response, but having read the detail of your question I'm not sure I can be helpful.
You will already know of Bits4Landys and Paintman, which are the two names I recall reading on the forum of the Series 2 Club (There seem to be many S3 owners posting on there).
The 'galvanising' bit threw me, being an S2 owner myself as I think of doors being aluminium, but perhaps you are referring to the steel frames being galvanised?
You see why I didn't respond immediately, no precise knowledge of the subject :-)
Lower Heater Control Cable Pin & Bonnet Release Catch Pin
in Requests for Part Numbers
Posted
I'm only answering because the questions have been 'ignored' for longer than I expected, but bear in mind I'm working off the diagrams; I don't have any knowledge of any Defender.
I can't really tell from your photo, but when you say 'hold the lower heater control cable in place' I have interpreted that as the part clamped onto the cable inner AND engages with the lever, so the inner moves as the lever is moved. I suspect this is RTC5978. The link goes to the page on Land Rover Workshop; if you scroll down you will see diagrams from the parts manual. Click on the diagram to expand the view; the item is highlighted in this view.
If you are looking for the clip that holds the cable outer in place, this is 'Clip retaining 13H7343L', another link to the LRW site.
Moving to the 'pin that holds the bonnet release cable on the mechanism that releases the
cablecatch itself ', I was thinking it might be another RTC5978, but it isn't!This MIGHT be Retainer Cable 356225 (now STC926) No picture on LRW, but there is one on Craddocks under that number.
This also requires Bolt 257194, but LRW don't list it as such, cross referring you again to STC926
Using STC926 we see it is a 'kit' comprising both the trunnion and the bolt (STC927 is the Metric version).
While Craddocks have a picture, so do Paddocks, at much less money. I suspect it all depends on postage, and what other parts you order at the same time.
Checking back, I see that Paddocks also stock the RTC5978 and 13H7343L.
Regards.