David Sparkes
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Posts posted by David Sparkes
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Presumably the lenses are rose tinted?
🙂
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I find several discrepancies relating to your post.
Searching for RTC844 bring different results from searching for RTC 844. Generally these refer to a 110 (not a 100).
I cannot be 100%, never having played with a 110, but I suspect that for this part 'a Salisbury is a Salisbury' so the wheelbase of the vehicle is immaterial. More were fitted to 110s than 109s, so it's the 110 that gets the mention.Using RTC 844 on ebay I see the cheapest is item number 253671137274 at ÂŁ55.
However, item number 254095288646 at ÂŁ58 appears to get you a gasket and fill plug, although I'd check before ordering.There is a used version, 224565971333, currently at ÂŁ30 + ÂŁ10 postage.
For RTC845, that presentation seems more generally recognised (instead of RTC 845) but yes, the price seems high. I guess there is less demand, which begs the question; Do you really need one?
I don't have an insight to its function.Regards.
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I find myself wondering how many 'likes of Machine Mart' are there in Belgrade, Serbia?
Regards.
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Blanchards, Yes, but don't hang about.
RETIREMENT NOTICE
Pete, Frances and Nick Blanchard have finally decided to retire after 50 years having the pleasure of supplying our loyal and valued customers with their military Land Rovers, Trailers and parts needs.
Over the next 2 years, we will be selling our entire stock of both vehicles and parts before we close our doors permanently. (Approximately end of 2023)
From immediate effect, we will finish our Land Rover refurbishment programme and supply only 'As is' Land Rovers with of course full MOT and registration until our stocks have been depleted.
Regards.
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Crickey, people scrap it because of a failed simple componant (plus a possibly failed tyre).
Whatever money they have they don't deserve it, because it certainly isn't valued.
Regards.
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The example I've shown is from a 1968 S2A.
The pin you have shown is one I associate with the handbrake linkage, and the PTO linkage. Part 216421, shown on LRW, scroll down the page for multiple suppliers and pictures.
At the bottom of that page there is a parts diagram, click on it to expand and see the associated clevis 279155, which you might recognise.
Scroll down again and there is a link to somone selling them as a combined set, ebay item 321866115967.Looking at my parts list I see it shows 'alternative fixings', EITHER the screw you show OR the nut and bolt I show.
Only one lever is shown, 576210 (now FRC6998).
Again, scroll all the way down for a more modern parts diagram (only showing the bolt fastening).Regards.
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The brake anchor plates have different part numbers, Left 246565 and Right 246566.
Recognising which is which is a bit more difficult!!
Regards.
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42 minutes ago, Anderzander said:
Is there any way to improve the low range bottom linkage ?
Mine has all new parts - but still twists when you pull the lever back and push the linkage into the fulcrum.I'm a little uncertain what is going wrong, but just as an illustration for others I'll include some pictures which formed my 'learning experience'.
The bottom pivot was completely encapsulated in a big ball of very sticky grease, but I don't know when that had been put on.
When I removed the grease the bolt and fixed point were excessively worn, but fortunately the clevis (on the bottom of the lever) was not worn.
Note the clevis has one thick plate and one thin plate. I understand this is a design feature to ensure the thin plate will easily distort as the pivot bolt is tightened, The thick plate needs to be thick to enable a rigid joint.
Note the 'shoulder' under the head of the screw; this is where the thin side plate of the clevis sat, and shows the bolt was not loose in the clevis.
The reduced diameter of the bolt, and the oval hole in the fixed pivot shows that the pivot bolt was not tightened enough to clamp the fixed pivot.Corrective action was to replace the fixed pivot (cheap enough not to merit any sort of repair), to replace the screw with a new bolt plus nyloc nut. I also included two plain flat washers, one under the bolt head and one under the nyloc nut. These were to ensure neither the bolt or nut turned as the lever was moved. I greased all surfaces EXCEPT for the outer faces of the flat washers, as I wanted high friction against the bolt head and the nut.
I tightened the nut / bolt as much as I could with normal length spanners. This may seem too tight, considering it's a pivot, but I had in mind the lever is about 18" long, making it easy to overcome the friction, considering the moving surfaces are greased.
The gearchange is 'deliberate', it doesn't prevent movement, but 'I'll admit it isn't a fingertip change.I also inserted a new spring on the ball joint (not shown in your diagram), putting loops of locking wire around the shaft and the curved ends of the spring to ensure it cannot fall out (a standard failing).
I don't know how this compares to your installation, but it's all I can offer to help. I don't understand the twisting you are experiencing.
Regards.
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OK, now I'm confused.
I went to check my 90/110 Parts listing. This shows the steering stop bolt as 12mm, but part number AFU1234, this is validated on parts sites such as Land Rover Workshop and is available for considerably less than the FTC4111 .
The AFU1234 appears to come with the neccessary half nut and plain washer. I do not know the size of the bolt head.
Regards.
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Yes, having found them I felt I 'had' to mention them, but also felt that it would be cheaper, especially in your location, to buy two bolts with 22mm heads and have the shank 're profiled' to a spacer section plus the 12mm thread.
Mind you, the diameter of the spacer section looks so large, in relation to the 22mm head, that a separate sleeve would probably also be required.
Regards.
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There are a second-hand pair on ebay UK, item 223992552763, but as you suggest, the normal offering under that part number appears to be a standard bolt.
Regards.
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The part number appears to be 390939 and can be described as 'METAL BUSH - MULTI USE - DEFENDER - DISCOVERY 1 - RANGE ROVER CLASSIC (PACK OF 5)'.
To support the 'multi-use' element, Craddocks describe it as 'Roller for Seat Slide Range Rover and Discovery and 90/110'.
Â
![390939[1].jpeg](//content.invisioncic.com/r226025/monthly_2021_06/1214004140_3909391.jpeg.d817987fbaccb00f3c3190f82dc5b434.jpeg)
 I have just recalled that if you search LRW by part number it shows an alternative use, as a spacer underneath the nut of a 'nut and bolt' holding a wiring P clip in place; presumably so that a socket can be mounted on the nut without fouling the P clip.
The point here is that there is a P clip included on the original drawing of the lifting eye.
Regards.
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Quote
So I own a 1964 Land Rover Series 2A 109 wheelbase. ... yes it is a positive earth ... the main issue is the added bonus on the brake lights now being on full time when I turn on the headlights.
You might like to be aware of the UK based Series Two Club. There are several US members already, although I understand it's a big place, so that doesn't mean there will be any near you 🙂
Via their website and Forum they have many circuit diagrams available, differentiating between Petrol and Diesel, Positive and Negative earth system,s and whether a dynamo or alternator is fitted. It's unlikely to have both a Positive earth system and an alternator. It is possible, but I mention it to point out that the wiring diagrams cover almost all eventualities. Many users appear to find the Club diagrams easier to follow than the LR versions.The brake light issue might be because the tail light and brake light wiring has been swapped over accidentally.
Regards.
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In the days of copper coated aluminium wire strands and copper coated steel jaws (automotive jump leads) I accept the caution is valid, but many of those in question are 'folded' crush washers. The basic flat sealing washers also have 'deformable' as a required trait.
It will be an interesting test to see if crush and sealing washers have also become 'steel underneath'.Regards.
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What you describe is a natural characteristic as Parabolics do not have the built-in roll stiffness that the multi-leaf springs do.
TeriAnn Wakeman noted this.
Regards.
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16 minutes ago, HoSS said:
... The nuts dont swell, they just have surface corrosion. Brush it off and use the correct socket.
Actually, the nuts DO swell. The nuts have stainless steel covers, the nuts corrode and the corrosion takes up more space and thus expands the stainless steel cover. This expansion of the cover is the 'swelling'. It means the standard socket struggles to fit.
In mild cases a 12 point (bi-hex) socket can be hammered on, distorting the cover into the extra space inside the socket, but as the corrosion (and swelling) gets worse, the only thing that will fit is a larger socket.
If the larger socket is 12 point it may not catch on the corners of the nut, especially as these corners are rounded due to the style of the covers.
At this point a 6 point socket is required, but if this is 'flank drive', where each of the 'flat' sides curve inwards, they may still need hammering on as the 'curve in' meets the maximum point of the swell.
Each person will have a different break point, when the cost of new nuts is less aggravation than choosing the best solution for each of the 20Â nuts.Regards.
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I'm afraid a 2020 Evoke is a little uncommon in this arena, both from a model and age perspective.
I don't know what is available Stateside, but a Google search brought up https://www.evoqueownersclub.co.uk/forums/ in the UK.
Surely, with 275.6K posts posted by 15.7K members it must have something going for it.If you book a re-visit to your Service Advisor perhaps you will have to 'have my family with me full capacity' to replicate the conditions for the test drive.
That comment is only slightly tongue in cheek!Regards.
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On 5/24/2021 at 10:44 PM, Filbee said:
Thanks for the link David.
I need my storage to be underneath the wheel boxes so I don't loose any space in back, but there are some good ideas there all the same....
It's probable I don't fully understand the requirements, but the phrase 'so I don't loose any space in back' suggests access to the boxes is going to be restricted on occasion because you have something else above them, so any benefit is lost.
An alternative might be to make a box small in area, but extending all the way from the bottom of the wheel box to the capping. Dependent on what you want to store in the box, you may need one or two storage trays, sitting one on top of the other, to separate all the contents. Yes, you still have to lift out the upper trays to access the lowest, but as the whole storage box reaches up to capping level there is minimal chance of other 'stuff' totally preventing access.
Regards.
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In general it might be helpful to read through an earlier thread on 'rear storage'. There are several ideas mentioned over the two pages, hopefully one will lead you to your answer.
Regards.
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That link is a little late, go back to around 2mins 30 seconds to see the screen insertion from the beginning.
The point about the Series screen is that it does NOT use a rubber seal, JUST the sealant.
The advice given via the S2C forum is that it's wise to put 'something' solid in the base of the windscreen frame, to stop the screen sliding downwards over time. This is especially relevant to the modern heated screens, as they seem to be slightly smaller than the original panes.Go to 4.50 to see the Arbomast Windscreen sealant in use.
Regards.
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The Range Rover is a style of car created by Land Rover, which itself was a style of car created by the Rover Car Company.
It was the perceived need by Marketing teams that caused Land Rovers to be allocated a specific sub-heading under Rover.
Later on the same need was perceived to distance the name Range Rover from Land Rover.Regards.
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Sorry if it seems an obvious question, but once home, have you tried the key fob again?
The thinking is that the receiver in the car may have been swamped by the signal from a local aerial; once moved out of the location, if that was the problem, the receiver and fob should work as normal.
Regards.
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In this specific instance the vehicle was 'targetted' due to Anti-social behaviour of its driver. There was some Police publicity about it at the time, but I cannot find it 'now', which also means I cannot with certainty say which Police force was involved.
It's my understanding that anti social behavoir does not, on its own, result in immediate seizure of the vehicle. However, if the vehicle is found to have 'failings' such as uninsured, or the driver does not have a current licence, then the vehicle can be seized. Whether the owner then considers it financially viable to retrieve it is another matter.The area involved is called Ramsden Road, although there are other roads in the vicinity that have similar characteristics.
In recent years they have 'suffered' from the attentions of people who like to make them as difficult to drive along as possible. This is made easier when the road has zero maintenance from the Highway Authority, and is also subject to free running water (as the drainage is neglected).A few years ago the Highway Authority was manipulated into arbitarily closing the road to motorised users. The HA was rapidly made to understand, through the legal system, that they had been led into illegal activity.
Part of the neccessary management improvement led to the creation of an organisation called 'The Friends of Ramsden Road' on which most or all responsible interested parties are represented. There will of course be 'interested parties' who are irresponsible and who didn't get involved.I knew I had seen some publicity about the situation; it took some time to find it but I hadn't realised this summary was posted as long ago as April 29th 2021.
Ramsden RoadThe case of Ramsden Road and others in the area has and continues to be a long and complex one.Many people will remember an Experimental Traffic Regulation Order that the Green Lane Association argued against and won in the High Court. This win did not relieve pressure to close the lane though, in fact it also potentially left the door open to a permanent TRO in future without the requirement of a full consultation.But, thankfully due to the ongoing work of the Green Lane Association and its affiliation to the Friends of Ramsden Road group, and despite being the only organisation that has represented 4x4 users in this matter against strong calls for closure to all motorised users, the local authority took this on board and chose to use a Public Space Protection Order rather than a TRO.This order could have prohibited vehicular use in its entirety, but despite continued pressure to close the lane the authority chose to continue to allow vehicular use through the offer of a temporary (up to 3 years) permit scheme. While not an ideal offer for vehicular users it is, considering the context of the case, a far better option for the laning community than the potential alternative.A PSPO is not a permanent order, the duration cannot exceed 3 years and the order must be reviewed at 6 monthly intervals.This matter must be viewed as part of the bigger picture. Motorcycle and carriage access will not be restricted, 4x4 use will be limited to those who are members of GLASS, and on the request of GLASS will include members of other organisations who were not present during the preceding years of discussions but purport to be responsible users and operate under a code of responsible usage. This was a bare minimum requirement by the managing authority.During the term of the order the situation will be reviewed biannually, the lane will be repaired, and it is therefore possible for things to change for the better should problems that have plagued the area reduce.The future of vehicular access rights to this lane now rests on those who choose to use it and how they behave whilst on the lane and in discussions about the lane in the public domain.Unfortunately despite having represented and secured rights for other representative organisations who did not make themselves present during negotiations, communicate with GLASS during the process, or request to participate in the work of the Friends of Ramsden Road, there has been considerable public conjecture over the processes and actions of GLASS, not to mention the order itself.In future, in order to avoid this inaccurate perception based on opinions from outside of the process, GLASS cannot continue to represent other representative organisations who offer no support to GLASS and are unable to secure themselves a position to represent their own members, although in this case under the term “affiliates” the permit scheme will cover these organisations as was agreed, of course along with all affiliate clubs and commercial members of GLASS.GLASS will continue to work with the Friends of Ramsden Road group and Kirklees Council throughout the period of the order, any pertinent updates will be made available via our social media channels.ÂRegards.Â-
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Ah Ha.
Go to https://www.veikl.com/api/download/full/3211.pdf.
This is a free 24MB download of a Parts List in PDF format. It's mainly in Spanish (which I cannot read) but the text listing of each part has the part name in several languages, one of them being English. The manual conforms to the earlier style of LR lists, with a diagram on one page and the text description on the next page.
On PDF page 163 you will see the complete layout of the twin tank arrangement, including the control valve.
I'm counting that find as a win.
It might not contain the answer to the meaning of life, the universe and everything, but it seems it's at least a starter to Land Rover Santana 🙂Regards.
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![390939[1].jpeg](http://content.invisioncic.com/r226025/monthly_2021_06/1214004140_3909391.jpeg.d817987fbaccb00f3c3190f82dc5b434.jpeg)
Defender stolen in last hour in Ullapool - eyes open please!
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
From another forum, about the same 'Stolen in Ullapool' incident.