Geojake

I bought this kit off eBay, as I wanted to have a modern flip key with the fob and key together. It works a treat and the entire unit is housed in the fuse box so all hidden. I then got the blank keys cut at my local locksmiths.

And for a video of how it works (before I tidied up the wires). The actuator has plenty enough power to drive the locking mechanism. IMG_2946.MOV

Hi mate, I did this earlier on in the year on my 90. see image below. very easy to do. I did all three doors and after getting the hang of how the inside of the lock mechanism worked, i drilled a hole through the locking tab and attached an actuator pole through it, drilling a hole out the bottom of the lock. When i finally do the door cards, it will look exactly as you have posted above. I'd be happy to provide you with detailed info, but I'm sure you would be able to crack on just fine. Jake

This is looking unreal. Nice work!!

Great. So it is DA6061 it is. They are probably worth changing, although not looking forward to the job! Thanks again mate 🤩

@Snagger you superstar. Thanks! So if I discover (pardon the pun) the CV joints are worn, will they be 10 spline CVs?

Just about to change my front bearings and CV seals on my 1989 90. The front hub I have seems different to ones in the Haynes manual and in the workshop manual. Can anyone help me out? Is this from a Disco, if so what model? It has a 10 spline drive shaft in and there is no removable cap like I see on most other defenders 😕 Thanks Jake

Yes, completely agree. I haven’t been doing any driving at all until I get this sorted. The front is extended by about 70mm which is overstretched to say the least. Thanks for the advice. They are only down the road from me in Shropshire so I’ll pop down and show them. Maybe changing the springs and shocks is a cheaper option! 🤣🤣

Hi @Retroanaconda, sorry for the late response, I wonder if you could shed some light on this, as I am struggling. Flange to flange on both front and rear is 690mm. I've attached some photos to try and show where everything is mounted, do you think it looks like these props have been welded to extend them by 100m or so? Is anyone able to confirm or deny my suspicions? Sorry for all the questions- this is completely new to me and the car is such a hybrid. 🥴

Looks seeeexxyyyy 🥴😍 Can't believe you went for it!

Yes I read this- I think I’ll be getting a GL one. They seem reasonable. Both props are 690mm. I also need to properly work out how high my lift is haha! I think 4 inches sounds too extreme and it is definitely not that high.

Okay, thanks @Red90. When it stops lashing down I'll crawl underneath with the tape measure.

I don't know the guy, but I don't imagine he did anything properly as I've spent the last few months sorting out his shoddy workmanship. It has a 4 inch lift.

As you can see. It’s certainly not in the standard position, but from what I can make out, the same as it would be in the Disco 1.

Well noted, will do. Thanks all for the advice

Okay, understood. I actually have a Disco 1 engine and LT77 longer box in so slightly different to the Defender 200 tdi. I will just buy for the model I have to be sure. Will probably get this: https://www.lrparts.net/lrc6407-wide-angled-propshaft-by-qt-services-for-front-of-defender-90-110-300tdi-td5-and-discovery-1-200-300tdi.html

Hi, apologies if this is a repeat, but, I need new wide angled prop shafts on my 90- chassis FA. Can someone explain why there are different ones up to and after 1994 models? Can I put later TD5 ones on? Will they fit? What are the main differences? Thanks J

Same same! 🤣 I didn’t do the conversion so I don’t know about that- to be honest the car has been quite poorly put together which I have been rectifying over the last 2 months 🔨 😤

Thanks Mo. I’ll read up on how to do this and definitely take a look. However, the mounts are completely shot so I will be replacing them anyway, for good practice.

I have been in other 200s and it doesn’t rattle like mine! Frustrating as when a bit of acceleration is applied, all the rattling stops. Mav, okay I didn’t know that. I’ve looked for genuine replacements and I’m having difficulty. There are some in Germany that are ~£35 which seems reasonable. Perhaps they are discontinued now? I want to avoid the big blue box l for obvious reasons. Well noted on the square gearbox mounts, I’ll get some.

Exhaust rattle here: idle rattle on warm start here: comments/suggestions, as always, very welcome Thanks Jake

Hi all, Problem 1 and 2 of 6784. My 200tdi (disco donor) with an otherwise smooth engine rattles like crazy on idle. This is bearable for short journeys but for long ones I cannot cope. To address this, and because the originals are clearly shot, I have ordered some new engine mounts from Glencoyne; after reading on here. But I have just noticed that my engine currently has the cylindrical disco 1 mounts on, with the circular ones on the gearbox. Anyone know of a decent solution to this, or do I need to drop the engine out and change the brackets for 200tdi ones? Secondly, my exhaust front section on idle hits my gearbox mount outrigger. I’ll attach a video for this. I was thinking about getting a slightly longer rubber hanger to give me an extra 10mm clearance. The whole section will be replaced at some point but, again, any ideas for this? Cheers Jake

@Mixalis standard 200 tdi air filters are like rocking horse shiit - impossible to source so do not get rid of it!! The previous owner of mine did and I had extreme difficulty getting one back.

Drill more holes @ThreePointFive no one is going to see them!

Okay. My MUD console arrived today. Haven’t installed it yet, just placed it on dash. BUT, playing with the idea of maybe using a Galaxy Tab tablet with a wireless Car Play adaptor? I Velcro’d it onto my dash as a test and quite enjoyed it. I do have a JVC head unit on order but maybe this a better way to go?