windrover

the good thing about engine mounts is that they are usually coated in oil...the mounts or nearby areas won't rust out. That said, a coat of cold galv would be a good idea

after my r380 gearbox rebuild, it appears that there is a leak of gearbox fluid from between the output shaft and the seal...new collar and new seal. replaced the seal but it still leaks. the shaft appears to turn straight, no play in the bearing. interestingly it doesn't leak while it is turning, but only after it stops. any ideas? thx, Ken

after some checking on vintage car sites I found that this is a flasher unit Lucas DB10, apparently used to enable brake lights to be used as rear indicators? how likely is it to be faulty if the left side indicators work perfectly?

thanks for the replies Western. looks like it is a Lucas part...two numbers on the box, 33117 and 3284. the white cylinders, Pektron A75-297, are attached in line with the right turn, left turn and tail lights

heres a picture of the box

sorry should have been more specific...1986 v8 110. it is mounted behind the speedo panel and looks like some kind of voltage regulator, but not appearing on my schematics...does look factory though

left indicators not working, almost sounds like a short but I haven't been able to trace it yet despite using an ohmeter to check for resistance...could you tell me...what is the silver box behind the instrument panel that the indicator wires (green-red) feed into? It doesn't show up on the electrical circuit schematic. the wires are in series with a white cylinder which I presume is a diode?

my aging 110 has developed another quirk...when I switch on the headlights, the wipers come on once. is this a grounding problem with the headlight circuit? Is my wiper switch dying? where do I start? thx, Ken

that's a good thought, I could mount a small electric fan in front of the intercooler, wouldn't interfere with the viscous fan.

thanks for the replies...I need to do some more reading. because the 2.8l has a mechanical injection pump, unlike the td5, I am not sure how the water injection is timed.

my fuel supply is off the sedimenter that is mounted near the fuel tank. there are two blanking plugs and I put a port off one of them. easy and doesn't splice any fuel lines.

I was considering increasing my air intercooler size on my 2.8l tgv. a client mentioned to look into water cooling instead of air cooling. so I am wondering if anyone has experience using a water/methanol cooling system on intake air as a way of improving fuel efficiency and increasing boost. snow performance is a link that I have looked at.

Hello all, I am wanting to put a second alternator on my 2.8l international tgv diesel and am surprised to find that the 2.8l crankshaft pulley isn't a double pulley like the 300tdi pulley. Does anyone know if the 300tdi pulley will fit on the 2.8l? second unrelated question: my esbar d5 hydronic heater only produces 144F. new and seems to run okay, but never gets the coolant hot enough. thanks for any input.

I've read through this thread with great interest although I confess I'm just barely comprehending. I have the Blue Sea (marine) ACR between my two batteries, and the aux battery never gets charged, whereas the starting battery is always fully charged up. The relay combines the batteries at 13.7 volts and disconnects them at 12.35 volts. 85amp Bosch alternator. The starting battery is wired as per factory 1993 110 (ie no ancillaries). Not sure where I should start with the diagnostics? thx, Ken

Fixed for a penny...gloriously quiet. Shimming the belt tensioner with a penny has to be one of the more obscure repairs out there. thanks for your advice on that; cheapest, most satisfying repair job yet.