Defender_300Tdi

That sounds like a better idea!

So would towing a trailer around for like 500miles befit me in the long run? I am just a bit worried about polishing my bores!! Rob

Hi All I am after a bit of advice on running my newly remanufactured engine in......it has been done top to bottom by a well know engine remanufacturer and fitted with a reconditioned fuel pump, new injectors, new turbo etc etc . Only thing is I have heard conflicting advice on the best method for running it in: - Load the truck up and take it for a 500 - 1000 mile drive so that the engine has to work a bit rather than doing the same trip with just empty truck..so that the rings bed in. - Run it around town and clock up the miles that way. - OR put a tractor on my trailer and tow it for a 750 miles or so.... Which method (if any) would you advice to give me the best long term engine reliability? Sorry if I appear a bit green on this...this is the first new engine I have EVER had! Rob

Surely someone will know something about this?!

Hi All! I am new to the Discovery forum as I normally hang out on the Defender one...so long story short I am in the process of searching and hopefully buying a Disco 2. I would like to go for a pre 02 one so that I can try to avoid the horrid tax increases. Anyway I have seen documented how to change the headlights to the later spec ones but I can’t seem to find anything on changing the front bumper (which I will plan on doing eventually). Does the new one use the existing fixings? What should I be looking to pay for both a set of headlights and a bumper? Anyway, thanks in advance. Rob

Someone must have thought of this before?!

Pretty much all the sill has gone as has most of the bottom of the actual post. So You dont think they will fit then Ralph? I was really hoping that they would! Nuts. Rob

Right my B posts on my 110 are shot and by shot I mean totally! I have been offered a set of Series 3 county station wagon B-posts, it maybe a daft question but will the Series 3 B-posts fit a 110? I mean I know you can fit a Defender front door on Series 3, so would a second row door fit? The only things that I can think of that would be different would be the door catch as mine is fitted with push button doors and now lift up handle Series 3 doors. Are the Series 3 B-posts held on/attached differently? I mean I wouldn’t be resorting to this, but 110 B-posts seem to be like rocking horse poo and even if a breaker does have them they seem to want daft money for them. Any help much appreciated. Regards Rob

aahhh Ralph beat me to it! He is right of course though. I think I shall contact Richard and ask for an ROW spec dash loom...which to be fair should have been included in the orginal box of loom bits I figure. I have read through your tech post and yer it is great...but I am one for plug and play when it comes to wiring because I simply HATE it. lol. Rob

Interesting....I have a temperature gauge that reads high and this would explain it! And there was me buying a new sender unit because I thought that was at fault. What mods does it therefore require to make the Td5 set up in a ROW spec dash pack....Or maybe I could ask Richard for a loom as well! Whatever is easier...

Was it not included in your cambelt kit? It should have been!

James, The ROW of spec dash loom (I am assuming you mean the small loom that feeds the gauges etc) is the same as a standard Td5 spec loom. I too was concerned that there might be differences, but having connected my ROW loom up to a Td5 gauge pack it all works fine and believe you me I tested all the buttons! The engine loom supplied to me was a quality bit of kit and even has silver heat shielding on it where the alternator wiring passes close the exhaust manifold, got to say Land Rover seems to have really improved the quality of their looms, my old 200Tdi loom looked like a few pieces of straw held together with some bailing twine! Richard is a quality guy who looks after his customers. Really good service. Rob

James, glad to hear Richard got back to you and sorted a loom! Do let me know about your final choices for central locking etc and how you went about wiring this into your loom. You will love the ROW spec loom...it all just fits together and can only go one way! You got any pictures of your Defender? Rob

Watching this with interest as I plan on doing the same to my overland 110 300Tdi.

Totally sold now on Puma second row seats, they look so much better than the normal landy version. What wiring are you modding on the loom? Additions of heated screen and rear wash wipe? Did Richard get back to you? Regards Rob

PM replied to...

James, I have sent you PM. Rob

Ah wicked! It can be done; my plan is to fit the double seat on one side and then leave the single one out and put my fridge there instead! Which should free up some room in the back for all my gear. The plan with mine is to build it up into a commercial spec one as well; I like the idea of hiding all my expedition stuff in the back. The 110 in that post is lovely! I am also building some 2nd row doors up using the same method and my B-posts are being galvanised as well. Hopefully my Landy will be around for a long time. Regards Rob

James, I got my loom from a company called Hobson Bros, I think this the correct number and address: Wolsingham, Bishop Auckland, County Durham DL13 3BD, p: 01388527283 f: 01388527593 They break and build Land Rovers for Africa etc. Really helpfully chap called Richard Hobson. With regards to the loom I would say yes it does have the connections for the rear window wash/wiper/heater, on the O/S rear cross-member there are many plugs. I don’t know the part numbers though I am afraid, I am currently working out of Aberdeen and my Defender is in Devon! No worries with regard to the help, I am happy to help! Regards Rob

James, To ensure that the tub was lined up perfectly, I re-fitted the old 200Tdi type tub and bolted up all the mounts along the back and front, then I made sure I was happy with the cross-member placement, I tacked it in place and then removed the tub and then seam welded the cross-member all the way round. The actually cross-member mounts for the body are fixed in place where as on a Td5 type there is a removable rail that runs across the top of the cross-member. Fuel filler hose is fine; I am planning on fitting a PUMA type 110 rear tub as this will allow the better spec seats etc. The tank is exactly the same as a standard Td5 type with the cradle and mounting plate (I think there are some pictures in my photobucket album). The only difference is the fuel sender unit/pickup as this only has two fittings (inlet/outlet) where as the Td5 has four and is a pump as well. I was extremely lucky and purchased a complete ROW spec loom for the whole Defender and literally everything just plugs in. The only thing I had to fabricate was the cradle mounts; these are two angular mounts that bolt to the chassis and then the cradle strap bolts down over the top. I then drilled two holes in my chassis and put in two rivet-nuts to mount the brackets to (two stainless bolts each side mount the cradle brackets to the chassis and then two further bolts each side bolt the cradle strap to the brackets! Not too confusing hopefully.... See the picture....I hope it works! Regards Rob

Paul, thank for the praise! It’s taken a good year of hard work so far to get it to the drivable stage it’s in at the moment and of course far, far too much money; the engine alone cost about 4.5k all in! I REALLY wanted the TGV 2.8 HS engine, but at around 6.5k for the engine and heavy duty clutch plus the fact that I would want to up-rate the whole drive train it was just going to be a stupid amount of money. Plus I figured with going to Africa, should the sh*t hit the fan, 300Tdi parts would be easier to come by rather than the 2.8 International engine. Anyway to more important things; the T-sections are for the Hi-lift jack fitting; I guess the guys who designed the cross-member figured it would be better lifting the vehicle with that rather than the standard Landy jack. Plus mine it going to be a heavy expedition Defender so that suits me just fine as I will have a Hi-Lift with me (they are tested to 7000lbs). Rob

It would appear that Warwick 4x4 has split into two companies (last november I am told) one is for garage work; 4x4 Reborn: on 01926 258894 and for replacement chassis parts: MIB components on 01926 258894 - just ask for a 3mm heavy duty crossmember and they will sort you right out! Regards Rob P.s I have ust updated the photobucket album with a load more pictures!

Hi James Crossmember came from Warwick 4x4. Its build like a brick-sh*t house to be fair! Was very impressed and they provided it in bare steel so it could galvanized. To galv my chassis....I cut off the old rear cross-member lifted the chassis up by the front as far as I could (see the photo-bucket album!) Then I smacked the living daylights out of it with a nice hammer up and down the chassis rails to remove all the loose stuff on the inside. I hired a 3000psi pressure washer and put it in the front of the chassis and washed all the remaining stuff out (it was lovely and clean by the time I had finished) then welded the new rear cross-member on. Then went off to be shot-blasted externally and galvanized. As a part of the galv process they first "pickle" the chassis in hydrochloric acid (I think) to clean off any remaining rust and give a good "key" for the galv to stick to, then its dipped in a water bath and only after all that is it galvanized. The company that did mine galv to a marine standard with an extremely high zinc content (hence in the pictures it doesn't look like normal galv which has an almost cammo type effect, but looks very silver). Its got a thick and I mean thick coating so should really last a min of 25 years even with all the hard use I am expecting to give it. Hope that helps a bit! Rob

Awesome! Well do have a look around and tell me what you think. I will be up-loading more photos on the engine install tonight. Here are the videos as well... http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy234/rcsprason/Defender%20110%20Videos/ Regards Rob

Hi Thanks Paul...didn't really think that one through! The album URL is: http://s795.photobucket.com/albums/yy234/rcsprason/Defender%20110%20Overland%20Build/ Will that work? Regards Rob