Defender_300Tdi

That's my truck! Ben, to answer your question and as I guess you might have seen if you had a look at my D44 build thread, yes I had my B/C Posts galvanized and a whole heap of other parts as well. I had already had a couple of bulkheads done and a chassis so getting my B/C Posts done seemed like the next logical step. Make sure that the drain holes in the bottom of both the B and C posts are clear (so the zinc can run out), try to get someone who cares about what they are doing when you have the metal prep'ed before you send them off to be galv'ed. The chap who did mine ended up bead blasting them as he said that shot or sand blasting would just distort them due to the force and heat generated by either process. My sills "bowed" slightly from the heat of the galvanizing process, but this was an easy fix before they went to paint. If i was doing it again I would fab up jig from a piece of steel to run from the forward part of the sill to the top of the b-post and then down to the c-post to tie it all together (it might work?!). The company I used (Wedge Group) did the dripping to an Offshore Specification which means that the zinc is seriously thick! If you need to know more just drop me a message. Cheers Rob

Any videos of this beast running???

They also supplied the first water pump as well....I will give them a ring later on today and post up the results. Interestingly enough, the vehicle and I are now located in Australia and my dealer over here has been supplying exactly the same pump. They are definitely genuine and come out of genuine parts box all sealed up. Regards Rob

Mike, Thanks for the replies so far. Its all very odd! I like to do things properly and this is extremely annoying. I have a picture of another waterpump, I believe this to be supplied by Britpart. http://s795.photobucket.com/user/rcsprason/media/STC1086-300TDI-WATER-PUMP_zpsa25dc575.jpg.html'> Worth the risk? Regards Rob

None of the bolts were bent and they are the newer coated type. All mating faces were checked to see if they were true and all were flat on a straight edge. The fracture is happening on the same "web" on each water pump (I have now been through three genuine pumps including the original). All bolts were torqued up to 10Nm first, opposite side/alternating, then going round them again up to 25Nm as per the manual. I have owned 300Tdi's for 10 years plus and I have never seen this type of failure before. A friend who is a NDT Technician carried out some dye penetrant testing on the pumps and this has confirmed that they have all fractured in the same location. I am at a loss as to why the first one lasted 10,000km and the second and third didn't even make 1km. Apologies that my pictures didn't show or tell that much, please see pictures below of None Destructive Testing results, the red line is the crack, I think its pretty clear: Both the pumps with red marker dye sprayed on, the original pump is the lower one in the picture. Rear of the pump with the fracture in red (original pump): Front of the original pump: Front of the 2nd pump clearly showing the fracture: Rear the of the original pump, alternator and PAS pump housing (Part no. ERR3736) where it bolts up to the block, no signs of fractures: Note that the third pump was still on the vehicle at the time of testing, but it has definitely fractured in the same location. Having had a chat with a friend, we are thinking that the gasket maybe too thick and as the pump is tightened up this is causing it to distort, why this is the case I do not know, because as I have said all the faces as flat. I am going to try one more new pump with just RTV silicon as the gasket. If that fails I am completely out of ideas. Cheers Rob

Hi All, As the title suggests, my water pump housing on my 300Tdi has cracked, or rather appears to have cracked. So I went out and bought a genuine parts water pump and gasket and changed it out, note: I also changed the P-Gasket at the same time as this gets disturbed when changing the water pump. So re-filled with coolant, ran up to temperature and low and behold the new pump starts leaking in exactly the same place. So I did some more research and found that the aluminum casting that the water pump sits in can warp, well fine I thought, so I went a bought a new casting (part number ERR3637), another new water pump, new gasket and another P-Gasket. I changed the whole lot today, re-filled with coolant and run up to temperature. The new pump has cracked as well, in exactly the same place! I am at a lose end to explain why this has happened to all three pumps. All the bolts were torqued to 25NM as per the manual. The orginal pump had done in the region of 10,000Km before the crack appear, but the following two didnt even make 1km. The engine was a reconditioned unit from Turner Engineering in the UK. This was the original first crack: You can just see the hairline crack to the right of the bolt head: Aluminum Casting removed (first attempt at repair): Not very relevant, but shows the new casting all fitted up: So any ideas what is going on with my engine? Could the acutal block be warped? It's not loosing any water, the cooling system doesn't appear to be pressured and there is no water in the oil. Cheers Rob

Although I faced a similar situation to yourself, I had the option of an upgrade to a 300Tdi due to my decision to reuse the old chassis and weld on new 300Tdi engine mounts before I then had it shot blasted and galvanized. I sourced a local complete 300Tdi which was alleged to have covered 77K, I didn't mind this as I was buying it for the ancillaries because I had already made the choice to go with the Turner short block and performance head. As you have the engine in an extremely accessible state I would seriously consider getting your injection pump and injectors reconditioned, also think about the radiator, hoses,oil cooler pipes etc as the last thing you want is something to fail on you leading to a melt down etc! I plan on never selling my vehicle so the cost was justified in my mind as its an investment... Here is a couple of pictures of the work: Crate was built to send the completed engine from Aberdeen (where I lived and worked) to Devon (where the Defender was being rebuilt...) Engine meets gearbox! In and running: Anyways that just my little story! Rob

Thanks Ralph...I'll order the part numbers above then!

I have to buy new or source some replacements as someone has been angle grinding next to the doors and ruined the glass, not me and where bought on ebay un-seen Anyway, I was aware of the thickness change and I believe I am correct in saying they are 4mm from 1987 onwards? In view of this are the part numbers I have listed above correct? Regards Rob

Ok, I brought a set of Defender Td5 doors, the thing is I dont know how old they are and I need to order some glass for them. They have Land Rover Genuine Parts electric windows and genuine parts central locking. They have grey door cards and I believe they are pre-2006 due to not being the one piece type. But I need the part numbers for the correct glass. I am after the green tinted style. Interior Shot: Door Locks and Central Locking: I believe the part numbers: ALR4774 Door Glass - Front - Tinted - Green - RH - Genuine Land Rover ALR4772 Door Glass - Front - Tinted - Green - LH - Genuine Land Rover All help much appreciated! Regards Rob

Thanks guys for all the replies! I think I have it sort of figured out, it turns out the diaphragm was orientated completely wrong, I had a look at another truck which I knew was still standard in terms of fuelling and then set mine to standard, followed by then turning the diaphragm to the recommended Allisport position. Also the star wheel required some adjustment; the current set up is now much improved with better get up and go. It only smokes a small amount of black when you are working it in 3rd and initially at start off, compared with the original set up where it just would not smoke at all. All the pipes, hoses and fitting were checked and found to be correctly fitted (everything was new so I don’t expect any breakage/delamination) I think the next course of action is to get some more miles on the clock, get the engine loosed up and everything bedded in and then possibly turn the smoke screw on the back of the pump 1/4 of turn. I say this because I think with the different turbo, bigger intercooler and performance head it is running lean across the rev range due to perhaps getting too much air. I’ll also get an EGT gauge hooked up pronto. Les, how well does your truck go? To be honest I am little disappointed with the VNT, my old 300Tdi 90 with a standard turbo and intercooler still goes better than my 110…. Here is a pic the completed truck! Regards Rob

Hi All, Bit of history first, I have been driving my rebuilt 110 CSW around for 750 miles or so (this was a full rebuild/restoration), as a part of the rebuild the engine was exchanged for a Turner Engineering short block 300Tdi with a performance head, all new ancillaries were fitted (including a Genuine LR Lift-Pump), the injection pump was full reconditioned by a diesel specialist and the turbo was replaced with one of IRB Developments Variable Vane turbos. The intercooler was also replaced with an Allisport drop in package. The truck does not have hardly any get up and go and pulling away in second requires some pretty heavy boot work. I have marked the injection pump diaphragm and rotated is a 1/4 of a turn as per the fueling instructions from Allisport, but this had no effect. I have measured the turbo boost and its hitting around 1.2 bar which according to IRB Developments is what it should be set to. It seems to struggle up hills with a noticeable reduction in speed. At first I thought it could be because it was rebuilt engine and could be quite "tight" but the more I drive it the more I am convinced that there must be something wrong with the injection pump. The unit was initially set up on the engine as it was assembled, using timing pins etc. The engine itself runs beautifully and I am around 99% sure its not a timing issue as surely it would hardly run at all, let a lone be drivable if it was timed wrong? So my question is, given the above what would you suggest would be the next course of action? I appreciate that the injection pumps are set up quite "green" out of the factory, but do you think this could be the issue? I am convinced it a fueling issue..... Thanks in advance Rob Here is picture of my nice looking, if a little ill engine....

Here is mine: (Note this is a Devon4x4 Twin Battery Tray shown without the battery retaining strap) Containing 2 x Exide Maxxima. 1 x Additional fuse box (protected by a 60amp HD fuse). 1 x Albright HD contactor / isolator, monitored by a genesis battery monitoring system. Mounted on the front is the winch isolation switch and an Anderson jump start plug outlet. Regards Rob

Thanks chaps as always! I will be putting in an order then for the HD 130 clutch plate then. Incidently, Valeo would be a good choice? At around 55 pounds? Cheers Rob

Hi I am sure this has been asked before but can I used Part No. UQB000130G (130 Clutch Pressure Plate) with the normal 300Tdi Defender Clutch Cover Plate (URB100760G)? Or did Land Rover use an uprated Cover Plate as well and if so what part number is this? I only ask because I have replaced the clutch and cover plate with a standard 110 item, however I am planning on tuning the engine and adding a bit of weight to the vehicle so would prefer the 130 HD Clutch and uprated cover plate if I need it. If I dont then I can save myself the cost of a cover plate! Regards Rob