[1991 Defender 110 Front Windscreen dimensions an thickness.]

Thanks a ton Mike, will surely do that. 

[1991 Defender 110 Front Windscreen dimensions an thickness.]

Hi! Guys,

Does anyone have the exact dimensions & thickness of the front windscreen for a 1991 Defender 110? A template will really be helpful too. 

I need to change my the front windscreen/windsheild as its got too many scratches.

[Standard Springs on a brand new 110 (Front & Rear)]

THanks a ton Guys. So here goes. I am removing my OME 2751 & 2752 springs and will add now the 

For the Front: Use  NRC8044 & NRC8045

For The Rear:  RKB101111

[Standard Springs on a brand new 110 (Front & Rear)]

Will these RKB101111  springs for the rear fit a 1991 defender 110 then? Are the same number for the passenger & driver side?

[Standard Springs on a brand new 110 (Front & Rear)]

Thanks a ton Neil and Ralph. I will go ahead and order the following springs to replace my OLD MAN EMU"s

For the Front: Use  NRC8044 & NRC8045

For the Rear: NRC6389 & NRC6904 (without self levelling)

Thanks for all the help.

[Standard Springs on a brand new 110 (Front & Rear)]

If I go ahead and order the following for the rear :  NRC6389 & NRC6904

will my ride still be harsh?

[Standard Springs on a brand new 110 (Front & Rear)]

Hi! Reb, 

Thanks for the offer. Is it possible for you to find out the freight cost? If its OK then I can get it down. Is it possible to put a self leveller on a landy that does not have it? If I get this then it makes sense in going in for   NRC6388 & NRC7000 (with self levelling) .

Only other option is to use the HD springs. Is your self leveler in proper working condition as you have mentioned its semi working?

[Standard Springs on a brand new 110 (Front & Rear)]

I have burnt my fingers with OME springs Neil. My 110 is a stock one without the self levelling suspension. All I want is to go back to stock springs. I do not carry heavy loads. I want a nice soft and comfortable suspension.

At present  I have the OME 2751 (Front ) & OME 2752 at the Rear. These are the softest springs from OME but for the suspension is still very hard. I had OME Nitro charger sport shocks which changed to normal Britpart OE one's.  After this there is some suspension travel. 

I do not have a roof rack at all nor will tow or carry heavy loads. Hence the request for stock springs that come with a defender 110 station wagan. 

As you mentioned:

For the Front: Use  NRC8044 & NRC8045

For the Rear: 

1. Option: NRC6389 & NRC6904 (without self levelling)

(OR)

2. Option: NRC6388 & NRC7000 (with self levelling)

In the manual it says that the NRC6389 & NRC69024 are HEAVY DUTY Springs. ( Dont want to go down that route again)

Can I use NRC6388 & NRC7000 even though I do not have self levelling suspension?????

Thanks in advance

 

[Standard Springs on a brand new 110 (Front & Rear)]

Hi!

If one was to buy a brand new present Defender 110, can anyone tell me the part numbers for the standard Front & Rear springs that come stock with a 110 station wagan.

Also will these stock 2016 springs fit an old Defender 110 Station Wagan 1991 model?

Thanks in advance.

[Not falling into gears]

THanks Mate

[Not enough of Vacuum for both Brakes and Clutch]

Must try that!

[Not falling into gears]

Changed the Master cylinder and still same probem, just does not move into any gear. So I guess I have no option but to drop the gearbox down. Any updates I can do when the Gearbox is down?

[Not falling into gears]

THanks G. Giving it one more try tomorrow with one more slave cylinder failing which I will have to drop the gearbox down and do the entire clutch once and for all. might be 4 to seven years since I did the clutch with the Valeo HD kit. Thankgod it happend outside my house itself. Would have been a killer if it happend on the way back from my trip.

[Not falling into gears]

Not sure as I seem to have a braided hose from the Redbooster to the slave cylinder. Which other rubber hose is there?

[Not falling into gears]

Guys its a heavy duty release arm, as I had patched it with a piece of metal. Tried bleeding it many times. Funny thing is that it happened overnight after a 500km trip.

[Not falling into gears]

Hi!

Did a small trip of 500km and came back with no issues whatsoever in the 110.

Next morning wanted to take the Landy for a wash and noticed that the Clutch was acting in the last 25% of its travel and not fully. Its got a Redbooster Servo. Somehow managed to drive back even though it was a little difficult to change gears.

First bled the system to check no air which was not there. Still the clutch was the same. Then removed the slave cylinder to find it rusted and the piston movement was not smooth. Replaced it with the 1st new slave cylinder, beld it and topped it with clutch fluid and this time the clutch pedal was much better but now she wont shift into any gear at all when the engine is ON. Also checked the master cylinder and its OK. Tried two more slave cylinders and same problem.

If I switch off the engine then the gears fall into place. Not sure what is happened. Is the clutch not getting activate through the slave cylinder or the release bearing has collapsed?

Any inputs are welcome.

[Jerky Accel pedal]

Guess what guys it was not the cable, it was the plate that the accel cable was connected to on the FIP, it looked a bit bent, so I straightend it out and now the Accel pedal is like butter. Thanks for all the help guys

[Jerky Accel pedal]

Yes its smooth when disconnected at the FIP end. Why did LR make such a long Accel cable when the distance from the pedal to the FIP is small.

[Jerky Accel pedal]

Hi! I have changed the Accel cable on my def 200tdi three time with new ones and still the pedal does not have a smooth up and down movement.

The first time the cable was all around in a circle in the engine bay before it went to the FIP. The second time I rerouted the cable and the movement in the pedal was better.

The third time I routed the long Accel cable a longer way and it was better. But still the up and down movement is jerky.

The entire Accel pedal has been reconditioned with a new shaft too.

Funny thing is if you remove the Accel cable at the pedal end, the pedal is like butter moves up and down perfectly with out any hitches.

Does anyone have a picture of how their Accel cable is routed in the 200tdi def engine bay? What am I doing wrong?

[Not enough of Vacuum for both Brakes and Clutch]

The Redbooster does have the tank. I have just ordered new rotors for the 200tdi vacuum pump. Hope it solves the problem. My mechanic mentioned that there is hardly any space for an alternator with a rear builtin vacuum pump that will fit in the same place as the OE alternator. So only hope is to do the rotors and check.

The brake servo is not leaking. Both the brake and clutch have non return valves.

[200tdi rev counter]

I too must get one done soon!

[Not enough of Vacuum for both Brakes and Clutch]

As I have already bought the Redbooster and have been using it for over three years there is no problem on the highway but only in city traffic as we use both the brake and clutch more than required.

Davis does the first alternator with the pump at the back fit a def 200tdi engine. Is there enough of place for the pump?

thanks a ton for your reply!

[Not enough of Vacuum for both Brakes and Clutch]

I have a Def 110, 1991 with a Def 200TDI engine and I have also installed the REDBOOSTER Hydraulic Clutch for it.

When driving all is ok, but in traffic which is slow moving I sometimes find the clutch slowly getting harder and if I rev the engine then it becomes soft. I guess the original Vacuum pump ERR535 is not able to give enough Vacuum to the brakes as well as the hydraulic clutch. I plan on overhauling the vacuum pump by replacing the four Rotor blades in the pump AEU2718.

Maybe they have become weak and there is not enough vacuum being generated for both brakes and clutch.

I was thinking of putting an alternator which has an additional vacuum pump at the back of it. BUt not sure which one will fit and also if there is enough of space for such a one to be fitted.

If it can be fitted then I can dedicate the original pump for the brakes and the one on the alternator for the clutch. Any ideas are welcome guys.

[Dip Stick]

A little-known problem with dipsticks - the tube has an olive on it and that engine vibration eventually causes the olive to creep up the tube, causing the tube to drift down the side of the engine block into the sump. What this means is that the dipstick shows the oil level as ok, but in actual fact there’s less oil in the sump than there should be because the dipstick is sitting lower in the engine. I heard of one guy who had less than 1.5 litres of oil in his engine despite the level mark indicating it was full. My own tube drifted down so far I was only refilling with 4L and it showed full. Picture enclosed showing the relative positions of the olive. Whether this is of relevance to your situation will be establishd by dismantling it.

I just check it and it was like you said Ralph. Corrected it now. THanks a ton.

[110 too hard.]

They are stock which came with the vehicle.