AlWorms

Being a nerd, I went for the Genuine FTDI adapter and a mil spec 400 Ohm resistor 😁 Another option for people looking for a pre-built cable: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315264834112 I just used a random plug and socket off a late model VW and piggybacked wires into the back of the original plug. Also, if you get a USB OTG cable and have an android phone, you can install the android version: https://apkcombo.com/rs-rv8/com.rs_rv8/ Then you can have the ECU plugged into your phone, which has about 4,000,000 times the processing power of the 14CUX 😁. RS-RV8 is a bit clunky, but handy for when you drive places that aren't in your driveway.

Fixed that for you 😉...

I have it in my 97 Disco 1 V8. It works in a Northland, NZ summer - pushing 30C and 97% humidity gave it a workout, but it worked as well as the AC I just rebuilt in my 2006 VW Touran, as far as cooling goes.

They're like Lego! I have Tiguan front springs, Skoda Scout rears (so it's raised about 20mm from stock). the driveshafts don't allow much more. There are plenty of Audi, Skoda, VW, Seat etc cars all running the same basic chassis. Mine has some bits from Audi, Skoda, Porsche and VW all in there 😁

I reckon a lot of "mechanical" people don't *think* they understand electronics, but it's all just logic... and if they had it explained and put in some effort, they'd probably understand it more than they think they would be capable of. I love the simplicity of my Disco 1. It just does what it should. However, my Daily driver is something I built. Not really super complicated, or "modern", but a 2006 VW Touran 7 seater, with the 3.2 VR6 engine, 6 speed manual and 4WD from a 2006 Golf R32. Because of the CAN-bus systems, wiring changes were fairly simple (for a nerd, like meeeee!), where a non-CAN car probably would have needed 4 or 5 TIMES the number of wires altered. The advantage of electronics, is that you don't have to modify every single mechanical part or spend hours making things work physically, because electronics can be "fiddled" - like an electronic autobox can be "adjusted" to do what you want, easier than trying to alter governors and valve bodies to get the desired outcome. Changing some code and uploading via USB can be done hundreds of times without much time consumed, but physically adjusting something to see if it works and then changing back and forth ca be painfully time consuming.

Well done. It's a shame such a simple item is so difficult to replace - If only they'd used a more generic item.

Base Idle is 525 +/-25 - the lower the better, so the idle valve has a higher control resolution in it's more open state. If the base idle is too high, the stepper can shut off the bypass too easily and cause a stall or hunting idle. If you turn of ALL the other readings in rovergauge, the TPS sample rate will increase dramatically, as it's not sharing the bandwidth with all the other data. For the TPS issue; It might also be worth checking the throttle butterfly is perfectly perpendicular to the throttle body too - measured horizontally, from the from the snout of the intake to the top and bottom of the butterfly plate should be within .5mm of each other. The screw is UNDER the throttle lever stop and uses a small allen head, but some people have adjusted them to make idle "better" - it's a bodge though. The butterfly doesn't fit tight, like a lot of modern cars, but if it's not correct, it can upset the TPS, or if it opens to far (backwards past "zero"), the throttle actually closes slightly and then opens as it goes past the "zero" point as you operate the throttle. Even if you get a new TPS, at least you'll be setting it up on a correctly set throttle plate. It's also worth cleaning the idle valve - you can use roverguage to close it, off the car a few times and it will spit the piston out. Putting it back in means VERY carefully keeping the alignment grooves lined up after starting to screw it back on, and tell rovergauge to open the idle valve - but if it's not aligned, it can damage the alignment grooves and cause it to stick. If the valve ever sticks, the ECU doesn't know where it is. It opens it wide just after engine shut down (you can hear it) and just uses the number of pulses sent to it to "know" where it is - if it sticks, there is no feedback for it to know the count is wrong. It will make further adjustments, but it tends not to idle as smooth as the position doesn't match it's "stored" default number. I also thoroughly recommend removing the base idle screw and cleaning that whole passage and screw. I used Nulon Foaming Intake Cleaner and a long cable tie a few times. I also then spray into the base idle screw port, via the idle valve hose connection port, and put a small bung around the spray can hose to stop the vac leak. I would rev the engine, and spray through the port on a closed throttle, before holding the revs up to keep it running. You can also remove the plenum, but that not required, unless it's got hard baked on crud in there.

Buy or build a filament dryer (I use the Sunlu S2), because if it gets damp, you can have all sorts of trouble and wonder why! Also, look at an enclosure. I have a Prusa MK3S+ and build one of the "Lack Table" encolsures - it's really helps with big prints, preventing warping etc. Also great to keep the dust off and people grubby little mitts out!

Check the speed sensor is owrking too - If it doesn't know it's moving, it won't hold the idle up.

Rovergauge: https://github.com/colinbourassa/rovergauge Cable instructions are on the page (I added wires to the existing diag plug and fitted another type of connector, but you could also cut it and fit you own). You can buy cables too; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315082558415 I have no affiliation or experience with that seller and they are probably available other places. That Ebay one is probably a good deal, as the connector is hard to find, but it's all set up, ready to go... and probably only costs double buying the basic parts and then having to muck around assembling anyway. Click on the green "CODE" button and select "download ZIP" from the menu: You need the Libcomm software linked on that page too, and the instructions are further down the page on setup etc.

for the 14CUX, Get RoverGauge - buy or build a cable and the software is free. It's a lifesaver.

Oh - I fitted a switch to the fuel pump relay, so I could turn off the fuel pump to stall car the engine... which meant that when I did a hot restart, the injectors hadn't leaked into the plenum - that's how I determined the leaking injectors. Also started and idled 100% once I did that. I wonder if doing the same would help you - turn off the pump for a few seconds when it's acting up... and if it clears up quicker, maybe that's a pointer? Or do the same as I did - stall the engine by starving it, then just turn the key on, start straight away - if the fuel hasn't leaked in, the mixtures might be right, then It'll run fine, as it's not being accidentally choked?

I used the Bosch 62354, long part number: 0280155821, because it had the best combo of matching features. Straight injection angle, narrow cone, grooves for clips and vaguely similar flow rates. I seem to recall them rates on them being better when running lower pressures (like the 14CUX), but I don't seem to have saved the flow rate charts. I think their dynamic floe rates were a bit lower than some other models, with the similar static figures. I used these: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4212903 I'm not saying it's ideal, but it's better than the leaking ones 😄 Prior to the change, as I say, hot start idle was funky, but it ran REALLY when going - it would rev happily to the limiter and I'd have to ease off, to make the auto change up 🤣. I've upped the rev limit and it pulls happily to 5800, with helps a little with the stupidly tall gearing with the ZF and 1.2 Transfer ratio. Mine ran pretty good initially after fitting the Boschs, but it did send the fuel trim fairly negative, as the Lambdas adjusted them. I just changed the multiplier to get it closer to zero (I like things to be how I want them to be 😄) I think Non-lambda cars might struggle a bit more. Also, the later software versions have much better high idle and stepper valve control for hot and cold starts. I run a .bin based on the "Operation Pride" tune R3652, even though my Disco had a pretty late version already (R3604 - it's a 97 Model year). From memory, on really hot starts, it opens the idle stepper further, to get more air in and stabilise the idle earlier - kind of like holding high idle on mine used to help, after a hot start. I attached a spreadsheet of Bosch injector data (note there are 3 sheets, sheet 1 has a bunch of other injectors hidden! I didn't make the spreadsheet!) Bosch_Injector_data.xls

Not heavy or cool... but a little bit oversized... 🤣

The TPS can be set to absolute or corrected(?) in Rovergauge. If it's in the corrected mode, it should read zero any time the throttle is closed. An air leak before the Lamdas will cause it to *appear* lean, so the ECU will run the fuel trims rich, to try to compensate. You may have a leaky injector, or they could be worn and letting out more fuel than normal (they are a disc-type, that do wear over time). I upgraded to modern Bosch injectors and reduced the fuelling multiplier in the EEPROM to compensate. Prior to that, I had probably 2 leaky injectors that meant the system was leaning out the fuelling. I had rough idling after hot starts, becaue it was too rich, and ould sometime stall when selecting Drive or Reverse. I've adjusted the fuelling multiplier so my LT trims hover around -25 and short term can be either side of 0, depending on temps, idle load, etc. Rovergauge doesn't show the Lambda's switching, as such; more the constant cycling of the adjutments it's making. It's a pretty crude system (designed by Bosch in the 70's, licensed to Lucas later), but very effective. Rovergauge also had quite a low sample rate, because the bandwidth over the serial connection is very limited - if you turn off all the readings you don't need to see, you'll see a much improved samle rate. So it also depends on the cylinder exhaust pulse timing, lambda reaction and the sample rate of raover gauge, as to how the lambda reading will fluctuate - they're really just a guide. You have to be careful with misfires - because the system doesn't control the ignition, OR have a cylinder disableing feature, if a misfire was occuring, a misfire will also show as a lean condition - because it's measuring the oxygen in the exhaust, and a misfire means too much fuel AND too much oxygen in the exhaust. I'd say you have a good chance the injectors are delivering more fuel than expected, either from fuel pressure or leaking etc. Also, because the V8 injectors are fired as 2 batches and aren't timed to anything except whatever ignition signal they start up on, a single injector does NOT feed a single cylinder - much of the fuel from any given injector ends up atomised in the plenum and feeding several cylinders... so you don't really notice one cylinder running unevenly. It's a bit of a pain, but not truly hard to remove the injectors and fire then outside of the car and see if any leak or if they have widely varying spray patterns. For the work though, I just brought 8 new Bosch injectors and stuck them in, but I had enough symptoms I'd verified as being from excess fuel etc (like the hot start issue etc, being OK if I let it idle for a minute with the throttle open a bit etc.) I didn't proof-read that, so I hope I said what I intended to 🙂