AlWorms

Haha. Yeah, right! I TOTALLY am one! I like your thinking. I'm in Clinical Engineering in the public health sector (medical equipment servicing), so it's a bit like aviation, but not organised! I have Aspergers and ADHD, so sometimes I need to be told the STFU, because I don't get what's going on - so feel free! I REALLY like your thinking. I've not long been into the Rover V8 - I brought this disco for a fun toy, because it was really cheap. I have built a VW Touran, with a Golf R32 drivetrain (3.2 VR6, manual and 4wd, + 7 seats) for mini me's and family trips. I'm not too bad at solving problems that don't exist 😁 It would actually be brilliant to design a system where the pump output went into the block, circulating well throughout, then through the heater and the return is directly aimed at the thermostat wax pellet, but on the INLET side - much like Subaru used in the EJ motors (and many other brands use, too), so the block stays consistent temps. I also fitted an EJ25 to my '84 transporter, so modified the system to work in that van. Incorporating the thermostat plate that forces full radiator flow once the thermostat is wide open would be awesome too. I think the block design is all wrong for it though! Maybe we could cast our own 😁 Also had some BMWs... so German cooling systems are something ive had to battle learn the function of. What is your main reasoning for not wanting flow to the heater core all the time?

Deffo don't go into ALL of it. We're all pretty relaxed in here though. I'll watch for your thread. 14CUX is fun.

The 14CUX closed loop settings vary by software AND MAP settings. I run the latest 3652 "Op Pride" software, but have transferred the Saudi climate coolant-temp/fueling adjustment map in, so I'm running in fully warmed up mode from 81C (and have an 82C 'stat, that runs at 82C on Rovergauge), the UK CAT map doesn't actually totally stop enrichment until 86C. That's the Map4 settings, in the MAP5 part of the EEPROM, but with the MAP5 AFR tables. Having said that, the fuelling enrichment tapers off very fast after a cold start, and it doesn't actually run in open loop prior to that - closed loop starts much earlier, but the fuelling is still adjusted in the software up until the points mentioned above. I have lambdas, but the cats are long gone. There is a piston heads thread about fiddling the 14CUX. It's a bit of fun, not worth megasquirting my Disco, when the whole truck cost less than megasquirting it 😄 I've managed to change over to Bosch injectors, remap it to suit (mostly) AND reduce fuel usage by about 20% when driving sensibly.

I'm new and my posts all need moderating 😉. In case I'm a wierdo. Which I am, but not in the dodgy way😁

Those aren't the tune resistors. Tune resistors are in the cab, under the seat on RRC and under the dash on the Disco (near the ECU, in each case anyway). Those missing resistors are supposed to suppress spikes/EMF etc from feeding back to the ECU. They are called "Multiport Fuel Injection Ignition Resistor" They should be changed back, ideally. They're sometimes removed by muppets who don't understand the system - they don't usually give trouble. 6.8K Ohms. The wires should be White/Blue wires on one side, and White/Black on the other side of your "resistors". I can't quite see, but one of the White/Black terminals, should have 2 wires? One of them goes to the other "resistor" and the other one is on your coil negative. Are the 2 un-connected ring terminals from the top of the amplifier? Looking at the connector face, terminal 1 goes to the negative and 3 to the positive. Back of the plug will be number reversed, of course. So if you determine the orientation of the connector and pull the jacket back (or test with a meter) you should be able to determine which is which. Originally, they had spade terminals and I think one was gendered differently, to fit on a piggy-back spade, so they only fitted one way anyway. I'd like to GUESS that the White/Black goes onto the negative, with the existing White/Black... but who would know?!?!

See if there is 12V on the starter trigger wire. It's the most simple test - if there IS power, there is a starter or main cable/earth fault. If there is none, it's something in the low power side to cause no power to trigger the solenoid. I just hook a buzzer onto the trigger and earth, and listen for it... it's especially handy on intermittent faults.

I've been trying to find those details for a long time! Lock-up 3rd would be brilliant for towing and for country roads around here.