Doorknob

Slipping will just get worse, but very slowly. If you only just started noticing it, it'd probably fine for sometime. One thing I always say is don't go "looking" for it. You practically confirmed it is clutch-slip now, so it does not make sense to keep searching for it. Looking for it will only make it worse/faster wearing. But so long as it's just 5th gear 'sometimes' it's fine to keep driving.

Whilst rebuilding mine, I also experienced problems with the ignition coil. I had 2 problems, 1. there is a wire running from the minus on the ignition coil to the ECU, this wire had a tiny tear which meant it did not like tell the ECU it was working (I think?) 2. The amplifier module in mine had died

Long term, I'm working on a custom PCB for the Puma instrument cluster. So not a controller, but a physically different PCB which runs the dials and 2 'better' screens. Yes. I like to overcomplicate things.

Hi, Any chance someone got a solution for temporarily fitting the old analog gauges in the new Puma dashboard? Ideally I want to have a binnacle such as in the picture below, which is from Ministry of Defender, however they do not sell it separately. Any other options? I already contact some companies but unfortunately no luck yet. A 3D model would be fine as well, I'll get someone to print it. Thanks!

I don't feel like that is true, these moldings are usually just created and then moulded in a 3d printed mold. That is simply not the costs. From what I've noticed, and I feel like some of you are saying it as well, usually after a couple of months you see these mouldings and infotainment screens pop-up at a certain Chinese website for way cheaper. The same chinese websites even do the new Defender 13 inch (?) screen on regular can-bus, and I'm planning on making a custom mold for that and fitting it to my revised Defender. But even those, are just regular infotainment systems where they slap on a 13 inch screen and a Android skin.

Ahh that explains... So my only options is to fabricate something myself? Have others done this the same way?

Hi, I'm rebuilding a Defender V8 which I've bought as a project, meaning it was already taken apart partially. It did not come with a gearbox tunnel (and many other things). But I'm really struggeling to find out which I'm supposed to have. The stamp on the right side with the gearbox number is no longer readable (like not at all), but my reverse is right next to 1st gear, which would make it a LT77 is what I could make up from google. That's why I bought a tunnel similar to this one: One should have noted that my diff-lock knob is in front of my gearstick but hey, I wasn't paying attention to that. The problem came, when it arrived this does not fit at all.. Like no way, I'm missing 3-4 cm's between the bulkhead thingy and the part which is supposed to go over the gearsticks wouldn't mount to anything. Could anyone point me in the right direction? I've got a picture below from my Defender (Work in progress):

Hey Maverik, Sorry for the rush, but did you happen to find them. I contacted all the shops, but they're all saying they're out of stock... So you're kinda the last resort.

Thanks! I've messaged them. Small detail I should've added but simply forgot, the instrument cluster would actually work. I've fitted a Puma style dashboard, and had my fun with some aluminium for a custom instrument cluster panel. So I can just make/weld it differently to accommodate the different warning light cluster thingy. So that would still be an option. A box?! You seem to be the only one. I kinda need it sort-of-soon, but I need it shipped to Belgium or Netherlands, I don't know whether or not that's a problem for you?

Hi, Anyone still got a source for the printed circuit board in older Defenders? I've pasted a picture below, it seems out of stock everywhere, even though it's a fairly simple (I think) circuit. Otherwise, I'd suppose I've got to upgrade to the YAZ100000 (TD5 led warning light cluster)? Seems that it would be quite the investment though as they seem to be going anywhere from €150+ to €300. Or are they available anywhere secondhand? I've tried my luck with Google, but no results so far.

Great you got it solved! Would've recommended a new one, they are dirt cheap but I can imagine you not wanting to tear it down again.

Not sure if this helps, but is the top support bracket fully against the bulkhead? Like with the firewall sponge behind it? I've spent hours on a similar problem you have, only to find out I had a bulkhead with a slightly too wide welding seam, which made the top support bracket slightly angled. Could not for the life of me align it. Might be worth checking out.

Been a while, but thought I should update it in case someone searches for this in the future. I extended replaced the 2 brown wires to a fuse box, where 2 30A fuses make them live happily. This way, it's also future proof, and I can add things to the fusebox when I like. Thanks @FridgeFreezer! @miketomcat is a nice idea as well, but saw it too late to be honest. The other wires from the rubber moulded connector I have not extended yet, to be honest because I don't even know where they lead...

Ah okay! This actually helps a lot, thanks! I'm then also going for a distribution block with 2 separate fuses for each of the brown wires, because yes, it is the main feed from the battery then to starter. The other wires, I'll be using bullet/spade connectors.

Ah okay thanks a lot! I have the superseal type connectors (don't think they're the original ones but still) with a rated current of 12A, so that would be enough? I felt like more current would go through the brown wire, but I'm really not sure haha