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joe1

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About joe1

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  • Location
    Berks

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  • Interests
    Discovery 300tdi, 90 300tdi in refurb phase, Beluga Black RRC Vogue 300tdi waiting in line.

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  1. joe1

    Repair panels

    I've never seen anything like that for a Disco - an almost impossible job as well for access without cutting huge swathes of external panel. I think Blanco above is talking Defenders not Discos!
  2. joe1

    Britpart - The good and the bad

    Bought a clear lense front indicator for a Disco 300 - and the lense wasn't even glued to the body along the whole top seam. Unbelievable how they can sell such utter rubbish - a blind man could have assembled it better. The other problem from the same order was a brake hose that leaked from where the rubber inserts to the ferrule - straight out of the box
  3. joe1

    200Tdi Overheating when raining

    And also you might want to source/check the correct sender - (lots of threads on here about it and a can of worms in its own right!) as has been said should normally sit at halfway point on the dial
  4. joe1

    Another rough idea problem!

    Glad you finally got it sorted - must admit I'd lost track of where this thread was. I do remember saying that the std Lucas ignition bits were carp. Whether this is because the 'new' Lucas isnt the same quality as the 'old' Lucas I dont know. Permanent fix is to retrofit one of the aftermarket amps (aulro have a good description of whats required) - doesnt have to be a brightly coloured ££ box either. Anyway you probably wont want to do that just yet. Just think how much you've learned about v8s in the process of all this though!
  5. ...ages ago now, but it was a mates version - he did say there were lots of different versions around and things like vcds that were updates of the older vagcom
  6. joe1

    Boot replacement advice please

    Of course you can patch it - but your patches will end up a few inches up the wheelarches. Whether this matters to you is up to you. The whole area is covered so can't be seen. And then of course other welding will need doing like body mounts or sills. So depends on how long you intend to keep the vehicle etc etc. If you are going to replace the floor though you will also need the Z channel mounting bits - the bits the boot floor sits on. These cost nearly as much as the boot floor if you need four of them (from YRM panels) - or less of course if youve got a local fabricator. Choices, choices....
  7. +1 I agree with the vagcom comment as well - I also had a play with one on an older petrol VW engine. Brilliant tool, and completely free - apart from buying a link cable for something like a fiver
  8. joe1

    300tdi cutting out - what else to try?

    These do get cruddy with age - just bypassing the sedimentor with a new length of fuel hose is the easiest way round it - you've still got the fuel filter up front to catch anything nasty
  9. joe1

    Another rough idea problem!

    it's also worth eliminating air leaks finally - can potentially be anything that connects to plenum so I'm thinking crankcase breather. brake booster or even fuel regulator. could try blankng all ports off just to elimi ate and then test- wouldn't drive without the brake booster tho! Also check stepper seats properly - no washer but thread sealant
  10. joe1

    Another rough idea problem!

    Throttle pot is adjustable so you might also want to re-check the basic settings for throttle pot and air flow meter - this link seemed quite clear http://www.v8wizard.com/Setting_Air_Mass_Flow_Meter_and_Throttle_Pot.php
  11. joe1

    Introduction and help

    Did you clear the fault with diagnostics? - it may have become a hard (permanent) fault by that time.
  12. joe1

    Another rough idea problem!

    If the idle was also off before the valley gasket change (leaks from the rear of the gasket?) then the gasket change didnt solve the idle problem. Looking at the video clip the throttle display value looks low, (0.19v) so you might want to check the throttle pot setup. Ecumate manual says: "The throttle pot voltage should be in the range 0.3 to 0.5V whes:n the throttle is closed. This corresponds to a percentage value of about 3 to 5%. On full throttle the voltage will be around 4.5 to 5 volts. The ECU can cope with slight variances in the voltage but it is important for correct operation that the throttle pot is adjusted so that it meets the minimum values". (Btw the ecumate looks like a powerful tool to have - never seen one in action before)
  13. joe1

    Another rough idea problem!

    if this is still an issue, my thoughts: that maybe the problem lies somewhere in that whole series of issues. Time to retrace your steps, perhaps state here what w as done - that may clarify things in your own mind as well. Also were all the ignition bits quality items - sometimes can be problematic if not. Standard ignition amps are never brilliant imo, aftermarket ones provide more of a punch. Could also be interesting If you can get a vacuum guage on to the inlet manifold - fluctuations will point to induction leaks rather than ignition. Let us know what happens
  14. joe1

    Leak into footwell

    That might work but what i normally do is just use gutter sealant on those windows - its a non setting cartridge mastic which can be run around the lip of the roof aperture (er, best done after taking the rooflight out, so it makes the job a bit longer). It does work though - Merc used to uise it on the older rear fixed windows of their estates that had a rubber seal. (Except Merc didnt use the diy shed variety that costs about £2.50). But even with that approach you'll find after about 12/15 years it does go a bit solid - at which point you get to do the job all over again!
  15. Maybe its better to ask for a highlight of the main / common / £££ failure points - that *might* be a shorter list?
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