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joe1

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About joe1

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  • Location
    Berks

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  • Interests
    Discovery 300tdi, 90 300tdi in refurb phase, Beluga Black RRC Vogue 300tdi waiting in line.

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  1. Maybe its better to ask for a highlight of the main / common / £££ failure points - that *might* be a shorter list?
  2. Certainly the case for some TD5 bulkheads I've seen that have been rusting from the insides of the A pillar seams outwards (can't beat a series bulkhead for build quality). But was the TD5 Def chassis made thinner in the same way the Disco 2 chassis was, or is it just less well made? I've never actually investigated.
  3. Yes, and I think thats probably the showstopper. I think DVLA are more worried about possible VED differences, which in turn relates to the euro emission categories. But I think tangle with agencies at your peril - it requires extreme patience and persistence, loads of time, and in most cases money as well. And I've got very little of any of the aforementioned to splash around willy nilly. Trouble is I remember the good old days when any conversion was easily possible. But of course I appreciate the need for scrutiny and evidence. Some of the tribulations are here: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=10&t=1725579. And that was even for a 3.5v8 change to a 3.9i. But thanks to everyone for their thoughts on this.
  4. Not sure about that. Looking just at remanufactured heads though, Turners quote £546inc for a TDi and £1350inc for a TD5.
  5. Lol, That reminds me of a consumer complaint I read from a guy about his £10,000 gearbox replacement on his RR Evoque at 60k miles. It was 3 months out of warranty, with all servicing done by JLR. A very modern vehicle indeed.
  6. Interesting - hadn't thought of the emissions angle, but I'm not sure an mot tester would apply different criteria to a TD5 than a TDi - might be a d be ifferent result if the original engine had a DPF and the replacement engine didn't. Would an averagely worn TD5 engine be any better/worse than a reasonable condition TDi (on the basis that if a conversion was done it wouldnt be done with a smoky worn TDi)?
  7. Fair points. I agree that when the TD5s are running they are pretty good with lots of smooth torquey pulling power. I ran one such engine - it never overheated, coolant temp was always where it should be - seemed like a great engine, until one day it dumped fuel in the sump. Injector seals were done, and it still happened, so I got rid rather than get into the inevitable a) endless searching for a good head or b) paying out shed loads of cash for a new head. Once bitten! My point is not that TD5s are not good engines when they're running well, but to me they will always have an edge of unpredictability as the mileage creeps up. And I like to be able to schedule 'major' (ie£££) work so I can plan around it, partly because I don't see why any vehicle should eat a huge percentage of its value on a single repair, and partly because I don't like vehicle maintenance requirements to suddenly dominate my schedules. And yes fair point also that there may be a nice shiny body sitting on top of a 'family owned' rusty bulkhead and chassis - still, good paint jobs and decent interiors are probably as costly as chassis / bulkhead repairs. I'll still keep an eye out for these 'cheap' TD5s
  8. joe1

    Dinitrol question

    I havent used that product but bake mode ovens go to around 80degC. Your bonnet probably wont be that hot - but there may be areas of high heat eg around the top of the radiator and above the exhaust - and heat will rise, so there may be localised spots that aren't far off that value. Also consider a really hot day with baking sun - the bonnet may well get too hot to touch, but your wax will be on the cooler underside of the panel so might not be too bad. Give it a go!
  9. Having not looked at values in the last few years I was surprised to see some early-ish (2001, 2002) TD5s on offer around £4k - which these days is cheaper than a decent 300tdi equivalent. Obviously there are the usual structural defender issues to be aware of at that price point, and warning lights may be on, and there may be the odd gearbox issue, however the basic condition seems to have been light road only use with bodies and interiors that are generally in a far superior state to the older 300's. From my pov though TD5 engines are the big money / reliability problem in what possibly looks like an otherwise attractive deal - if the head fuel galleries haven't already self destructed, or worse, (both 10p and 15p) then they soon will, and I would want to remove that unreliability aspect. So I'd be thinking about either a Spanish AMC head (budget £1400), or convert the lump to 300tdi with 300 input shaft for the gearbox (budget cost of donor Disco). The other option of course is to use the TD5 as is until it goes bang and then do one of the above - but you'd never really know were you where with that last option. So would you buy one?
  10. joe1

    Disco 2 or Disco 3 ..... Discuss!

    Ok I'll put in a few words for the D2: To me there is no question that that D2 is a more refined version of D1, but this in the end depends on what you to use it for (ticks the box for longer journeys). D2 is a simple good road going vehicle and if the well known failure points are addressed would be one to keep: - Chassis (mid to rear section) has got to be good - so no underseal/bodging and evidence of a charmed life are essential (and even then you will oil it twice a year) - TD5 cylinder head - it will fail eventually, especially it seems to me if you push it slightly (mine fell down after a 95mph run) - budget for AMC replacement (gulp) £1400. Either that or treat it carefully! - the other bits are almost service items - loctite for oil pump bolt / engine loom replacement / ACE repair (or delete if you're inclined). And values are falling all the time for D2s - one could be bought relatively cheaply ......
  11. Welcome! I'm not sure if the tranny manifold is the same, but its always (depending on the position of the crack) possible to weld up an exhaust manifold - just heat the manifold first in an oven and then use the correct cast iron rods, jobs a good 'un. I did this on a Mitsu manifold a while ago and it held up good. Works out a lot cheaper than another manifold...
  12. But also with a 4" lift your tow ball is going to be waaay too high - and then youre then going to need an extra drop plate for the hitch to bring it down to trailer hitch height. I think you'd be better off with a more standard set up for towing. If you're worried about the lack of a self levelling strut Disco 1's don't have one and cope ok - if it was me I'd put Disco 300 axles on and swap the chassis brackets over as well... job done
  13. joe1

    Disco 2 structure

    sectioning it is probably the least work but even then looks like the screen is coming out and then you've still got some long lengths of weld to dress fill and paint🤤. maybe raptor on the roof might be a quicker option as a cover up rather than matched paint.
  14. joe1

    U-Pol Raptor Chassis

    I can guarantee that never happens on my vehicles! - the idea is not to leave gallons sloshing around the chassis but just a thin coating.
  15. The value 'as is' is a 'piece of string' question really. So much depends on the condition of the main bits - chassis, and bulkhead, but then also including all the other body panels and interior as well. If its all really tatty and needs chassis work (or even a new chassis) and bulkhead work value will be knocked heavily. Probably worth a punt on ebay to sell as is - if its half decent it will make nearly as much money as with a gearbox so not worth bothering to find a gearbox. You can always post some pics of areas of concern here if you need a second opinion...
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