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About joe1

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    Discovery 300tdi, 90 300tdi in refurb phase, Beluga Black RRC Vogue 300tdi waiting in line.

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  1. As above all assuming the rear chassis is actually ok - or has planned work in progress. If the body is bad I cant help think the chassis will be worse....
  2. yep there is no difference.
  3. ...Probably all off by now but I remember that the manual for a 300tdi did not match the reality of what was there (maybe it had been carried forward from 200tdi models and never updated, I dont know). What seems to be missing from your list above: - there are 2 self tappers along the underside top edge of the frame (above the window) - there are 2 self tappers (or nuts and bolts) accessible from underneath the wheelarch holding the bottom of the quarter panel near the striker plate for the rear side door. - the instructions as I remember also do not state that the bonding adhesive is almighty tough on the 300s - it needs a combination of extending blades, and hacksaw blades to cut through it - and a thin chisel to start an opening between the panels is also useful.
  4. .....The achilles heel of these carbs was always throttle spindle wear which would give lousy (erratic) idle - the engine would suck air through the sloppy fit wear the spindle runs in the carb body and would need new fiddly brass bushes inserting in the body to get a decent idle. If you've not checked already you may just want to check for sloppy fit before deciding to forge ahead - with this or any other SU carb for that matter ....
  5. Yep, MGBs at 1800cc used twin 1.5inch and 4 litre Jags twin 1.75inch so demonstrates the flexible fitment range
  6. The trouble is that this isnt just a LR problem - its rife across all markets. A while ago I bought replacements brake pads from Milner for a Mitsi (simple purchase I thought). WRONG - they were too tight to fit inside the calipers, and it wasnt just the thickness of paint on the new calipers -must have been over 1mm oversize. Milner clearly play the same game as Britpart. Now if its a quality Jap part I need (or time-critical) I always get BluePrint - never had a problem with them
  7. If the bearing seizes the heat generated is enough to melt the plastic carrier. Possible reasons: Extended or heavy use or incorrect free play between the release bearing and clutch fingers (if always in contact generates lots of heat in the bearing) HD alu carriers available as a replacement (Paddocks do one but I would still beware of the correct dimensions on an aftermarket replacement) but tbh if everything in the system has correct clearance and it doesnt have heavy use then OEM part should be fine You might have checked already but cover plate fingers may also have advanced wear and need checking (but unless really deep will be fine)
  8. Yep, separating the TC is always the best plan...
  9. And next of course we will hopefully see the Ineos Grenadier as another Defender-contender - built in Bridgend and (uh uh) BMW powered....... Should be interesting
  10. Perhaps you're overthinking this - personally I'd probably just support rear of the Transfer Box on a 'V' shaped block sitting on a standard jack and let the gearbox rest on the crossmember - or something like that.....
  11. Tbh I'd suggest starting your welding OFF the vehicle first on bits of scrap - that way you can fine tune your wire speed / ampage and you don't have the hassle of going back and re-doing what you think you've already done. Although mig is, as others have said, relatively straightforward once you factor in difficult positions and access together with older metal that **may not** be of consistent thickness, jobs can suddenly become a whole lot more difficult. For that reason you've got to be confident in your basic approach being right - and you can probably achieve that in a few hours with odd bits of scrap that you can 'bend test' and look for penetration marks - and also you'll then be attuned to that sweet sound that mig makes when its welding right, so you get instant auditory feedback on your weld quality even before you look at the weld. Stick with it though - results will be worth it......
  12. joe1


    That's a great write up!!
  13. joe1

    ABS problem

    Hi, your first step is to get the fault codes by bridging two terminals on the diagnostic socket and recording the number of flashes that the system delivers. If you google "abs fault codes discovery 1" you'll find some explicit instructions on the process. Do it a few times to make sure that you record the right codes - (and it aint particularly easy to decipher it all) and then look up the fault code. Just be aware though that once you clear some faults others may then make an appearance. Your comment about brakes completely failing is worrying though (abs problems don't normally cause that) and it may be that you have another unrelated brake problem that also needs diagnosing. Btw the normal startup sequence is that abs light comes on with ignition and engine start, and then goes off once moving at more than 5mph. Do some digging around and come back for more specifics, good luck
  14. I've never seen anything like that for a Disco - an almost impossible job as well for access without cutting huge swathes of external panel. I think Blanco above is talking Defenders not Discos!
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