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joe1

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About joe1

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  1. Photobucket Fix

    That all seemed to work ok, but a few days later I found that a few standard laptop features had mysteriously stopped working (eg. the ability to reboot or call up task manager!). Having disabled the extension everything was then back to normal. So for this browser I'll only enable the extension when I need to view photobucket links, and then disable it afterwards. Bit of a pain really....
  2. Photobucket Fix

    Yay, thanks for that - there's also a fix for the Opera browser: https://addons.opera.com/en/extensions/details/photobucket-hotlink-fix/?display=en
  3. The "Pass the Bucket" 4x4 For Sale on Ebay Thread

    I think they must have meant 'hysteric' rather than 'historic' - there are lots of typos on the listing page as well....
  4. The "Pass the Bucket" 4x4 For Sale on Ebay Thread

    ....but surely a bargain at only £13k, no?
  5. Yes, I checked both. In fact interestingly that cable showed no continuity from ecu to relay - so I replaced most of it with new cable. Your point though does now make me think that I might not have re-checked the voltage back at the ecu terminal after the replacement wiring. I'll do that later today and report back I think the details are different with the D1 - there is no accumulator on these and so no pressure switch. That ecu terminal instead has a second feed from the brake light switch (which also showed 12v at the ecu with brake pedal depressed). So its a simpler system (but still unfathomable to me!).
  6. Been trying to resolve this problem for a few days now but getting bogged down largely I think because I lack understanding of how the system is supposed to work, so time for some additional input I think before I drive myself deeper into a bottomless can of worms (and desparations!). I've posted here because similar systems are in both D1 and RRC. Background: D1 300tdi 1996 auto - new to me, abs dash bulb had been removed (nice) and initial error code shown was 2-6. Easy I thought so changed brake light switch, clearing the error, and promptly got the new code 2-2. According to the RSW solutions site this code means “1. Pump relay doesn't switch off or 2.Wiring Connection 'Pump Monitor' to ECU” I've gone through a number of checks on the power supplies, relay operations, ecu connections and continuities, and everything seems to check out apart from what follows. 1. The pump relay – does not run the pump when ignition is on brake pedal is depressed (**check my understanding here – should ignition on and brake pedal pressed be enough to run the pump??**). But if relay terminals 85 and 86 are bridged the pump runs. Power supply on NO to the relay is ok at 12v. Relay when tested out of circuit latches ok on a 12v supply. When the relay is removed from circuit and put back it still doesn't operate - the problem seems to be that WO from ecu terminal 11 has only 0.1v – not nearly enough to trigger the relay. Presumably on receipt of 12v from the brake light switch terminal 11 should have a bigger output voltage? So does this mean the ecu is faulted or is there another condition that isnt being met? I've done similar checks for the Load relay – supply on OK is good, but the BG output from terminal 8 of ecu is 0volts, so again this relay is not operating in circuit. 2. Pump monitor to ecu. This is terminal 30 on the ecu. I presume terminal 30 is waiting for 12v from NR on the pump relay. It doesn't receive 12v because the relay doesn't operate. This all seems pretty much self defeating unless I'm missing something blindingly obvious. An thoughts/inputs welcome. I've extracted some wiring schemes attached for the relevant bits mentioned above. Cheers.
  7. Parts rant!!!

    Interesting. I for one continue to expand my buying of ebay items for convenience, so I suspect these problems may get worse in the future. Maybe there could be a forum space for showing items that didn't meet their description. It might be a useful way of warning other members about particular sellers/items. But sometimes I suspect the ebay resellers are just clueless (or reckless) about 'OEM'. All a bit of a minefield though in terms of guaranteeing accuracy of the report for the forum?
  8. Stolen 90

    Yes the pikey/lowlife situation has got so bad - they know they can get away with it 'cos the cops can do nothing. The only thing anyone can do is put as many obstacles in their way as possible (eg other vehicles in the way, metal gates, cameras etc) to make it as difficult as possible for them to even think about trying to take it, and then hopefully they move on to the less well protected next one. But even given precautions I've heard of pikeys who cut down a whole section of 6ft hedge to get to a vehicle - and then came after the owner with a 3ft crowbar when challenged. Or years ago thieves who took a sierra cosworth from behind security chained metal gates with a portable angle grinder. Makes you sick...
  9. Hmm, so you're saying the side finishers can't be applied after the screen is bonded - that puts a spanner in my works. I'll think of plan B then.
  10. Has anyone got experience of the finishers on these screens. My recent 300tdi Disco has had a new screen but there are no finishers on it - the cost of all new ones is approaching 100 so what are the alternatives? Take from another vehicle: I've never tried to take these off before, I'd imagine the top (and bottom) one is impossible (?) but the side ones might just be possible given theyre held on with tape (heat gun to soften things up first?). And its the side ones that are the expensive ones (£70 ish). Is that a good plan? Or just fill in the gap with mastic and overpaint as a cheap/horrible fix? Thoughts welcome
  11. Fitting a Log Burner in a garage

    Only just saw this thread after having done a bit of research myself on the topic of wood stoves (note to self: check this part of the forum more often!). But for anyone who's thinking of a new stove install check this site out http://www.stovefittersmanual.co.uk - seems comprehensive enough. Some points I've gleaned: - plasterboard (the non- fire rated sort) is combustible, so normal clearance distances apply (see below) - single skin flues do get v hot so require 3x their own diameter clearance to combustibles - single skin does also suffer from additional charcoal build up due to condensation and will need more sweeping, as well as not giving good draught when cold - a twin wall warms up quicker because of the insulation - a similar reasoning applies to external flues vs internal - there are some excellent deals on twin wall on that auction site (and other places) - the only thing you have to watch is the price of the connectors to connect up to your stovepipe, what may seem like a bargain often isn't due to the humungus pricing of say a 6inch stove pipe connector. And the other problem is that often secondhand twinwall is of unknown manufacture, or worse is obsolete. That means trying to identify it yourself (from what seems like 20-30 different manufacturers over the last 20 years or so, or taking a piece of it to your local flue specialist who may be able to identify it. I say 'may' because I saw a cheap one, asked my local specialist who said he'd asked his technical rep, and came back with the name Powrmatic, who no longer make that kind of flue. In the end it turned out the tech rep was completely wrong and the real make was actually a well known one! So tread carefully. Anyway, apart from all that time-consuming shenanigans I'm looking forward to a toasty winter. Good luck to all you wood burners
  12. Discovery 1 Inner Wings

    Pretty much as the guys above have said really, the only thing I'd add is that sometimes a casual observation of the trouble spots doesn't always reveal the full extent of the work (that sometimes only becomes clearer only when your well into the job) I've just done a similar exercise on a D1 that had obvious holes in the front wings in the usual places - attached (couldnt get image hosting to work today) - fairly quick I thought, so ploughed on. Then I discovered the metal around the front most body mount areas were weak (the ones by the radiator), so that meant cutting out some of the (good) lower inner wing to access the area. And the area on the bulkhead where the inner wing meets it was also weak - more plating there. Oh and I also did some re-doing of the front sill mounts as well - the weak ones that had some oversills previously welded to them But cost of repair was pretty small - already had 1.2 / 1.4 / 1.6 sheet metal lying around, so just cutting discs, gas, mig wire, seam sealer paint and underseal to guarantee another 10 years on the road. My point is just be prepared for some additional work beyond what you first think. In fact if time is not a real issue I'd say do some stripping off, and cutting and grinding back to sound metal even before buying any new metal, and have a good prod at those areas that may even appear to be sound (often they aren't, particulalry if covered with some previously applied nice thick underseal)! Well worth doing though.
  13. Ok I know, millions of posts on the hoary old topic of leaky sunroofs, and we all know the seals/gaskets that can go and leave pools of water in their wake. But wait, there's something else as well - and maybe this feature has already been commented on but I've never seen it...... So, here we go. I had the front of the vehicle jacked up 18" or so, and I started to get water in the vehicle from the rear sunroof, so a quick strip down of the interior, revealed the basic sunroof. This is a pic of the rear sunroof as seen when looking towards the front of the vehicle: and this is the culprit that the finger is pointing towards: The offending thing is a piece of the sunroof construction, a tab inserted into the hole underneath it (and there are two - one on the other side as well).... that allows water into the interior..... in the circumstance where the front of the vehicle is higher than the rear. Because the sunroof drains are at the front of the sunroof, and therefore entering water cannot possibly get out of the sunroof channel. Funny, I don't recall seeing advice in the handbook never to park facing uphill when its raining. Parking facing downhill will however be fine! And all because LR couldnt be bothered to create sunroof drains at the rear of the sunroof (like quality manufacturers do). So can it be fixed? I have to confess I haven't even tried, but possibly araldite or similar to seal the gap, but then of course in heavy rain, the sunroof channel will still become full and want to overflow (into the car of course - duh). Interestingly the front sunroof appears dry, and |I'm not sure at the moment why. I've not stripped that part of the headlining back and I don't think I'm going to. Ultimate solution is really to seal over the sunroof if you think you might often have to leave the car uphill - bizarre, really!
  14. Thanks Guys! +Peter, message sent
  15. Sorry about the image (time to leave photobucket I think) hopefully this will work:
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