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    Discovery 300tdi, 90 300tdi in refurb phase, Beluga Black RRC Vogue 300tdi waiting in line.

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  1. Just to add - at the risk of providing confusion with another option - that you can add 10% of 2k hardener to some synthetic enamels (Lechler is the one I know of). This supposedly, according to Lechler, makes the finish harder and more chip resistant.But I don't have any longterm experience of how well this finish holds up fade-wise so I can't really recommend it, but it does perhaps provide an option for non-spraying application. The question of whether isos are present in brush/roller application is undecided - but I would err on the cautious side and use a A2/P3 mask anyway. But at least you wouldnt be spraying isos around the neighbourhood with that method.....
  2. Well..... none of the above was the cause actually! The brake mcyl can attach to one of 2 holes in the brake pedal. It shouldn't make a difference but when I moved the attachment point to the lower hole the brakes became good again - the lower hole does create more of a straight connection for the mcyl pushrod but other than that I'm at a bit of loss to explain what was going on..... I don't even want to think how many hours this little item cost - it would be far too upsetting, but at least the brake system got a good looking at...
  3. That's interesting about checking vac after switching engine off. I'll recheck but I think what happens is that after switch off it takes a couple or three pedal presses to get back to the hard higher pedal - which is what you'd expect?
  4. That's true - with engine on there is excess travel with a squish noise that sounds like air but isn't (bcos pedal is high and firm with engine off). Doing the servo test on start up with foot on brake means pedal drops about an inch or more - so servo appears to work (as it did on the previous motor it was on). And then on the road it stops reasonably but not with the neck snapping force that you want (well ok not neck snapping but as good as you get with a disco). Last mot the tester did a brake road test and said brakes were ok but needed bleeding - which isn't the case as I say. And now seem slightly worse if anything. In fact I've swapped front calipers out as well now but will look at the rears shortly....
  5. Possibly but I thought I'd eliminated calipers by clamping off the flexis - and bcos problem was still there I concluded problem had to be higher up in the system than calipers?
  6. I'll check flexis. Are you saying caliper possibility even though the problem is there with the flexis clamped off? Bowie said the same though.....
  7. I shall be re-checking that so thanks for the hint...
  8. I don't know - do you mean pressure valve on the nearside wing?
  9. And to add fluid level is constant so no leaks in the system...
  10. One of those problems that goes on and on.... Auto 300tdi non- abs. Brake pedal has always had too much travel so with mot coming up decided to fix. Pedal is firm w. engine off - so no air in system (power bled already) but when engine starts pedal sinks - as it should do but also sounds like there is air (ie 'squishy' and is only solid about half way down) present. Stopping power is ok ish but cant lock wheels up on standard tyres So far: 1. partly sounded like mcylinder so swooped out for known good one ( but against that pedal would have felt wrong with engine off). 2. Second thought was vacuum problem so tested pump which held -20 Hg steady. Line to servo has no leaks. So servo had to be faulty - Nooo checked with another known good one and problem remains. 3. Bulkhead area where servo mounts is ok. Mount for mcylinder on servo had little bit flaky paint so cleaned back and used rtv for good measure. 4. clamped off calipers and problem remains. 5 Swapped out the pressure reducing valve just in case - rear brakes bleed up fine anyway though. But problem remains. So before I set fire to it...... any thoughts will be most welcome! TIA Joe
  11. Looks very decent I'd say...... what did you use when it was 'stained' black? Looks better than paint......
  12. Has anyone ever come across companies that supply items such as L-shaped or C-section steel in body panel thicknesses such as 18 gauge? Not so much for Landy repairs bcos they're well catered for but other classic stuff that needs for example window channels - that would otherwise be a fair bit of work to fab- and make look decent.......
  13. As above all assuming the rear chassis is actually ok - or has planned work in progress. If the body is bad I cant help think the chassis will be worse....
  14. ...Probably all off by now but I remember that the manual for a 300tdi did not match the reality of what was there (maybe it had been carried forward from 200tdi models and never updated, I dont know). What seems to be missing from your list above: - there are 2 self tappers along the underside top edge of the frame (above the window) - there are 2 self tappers (or nuts and bolts) accessible from underneath the wheelarch holding the bottom of the quarter panel near the striker plate for the rear side door. - the instructions as I remember also do not state that the bonding adhesive is almighty tough on the 300s - it needs a combination of extending blades, and hacksaw blades to cut through it - and a thin chisel to start an opening between the panels is also useful.
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