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joe1

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About joe1

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  • Location
    Berks

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  • Interests
    Discovery 300tdi, 90 300tdi in refurb phase, Beluga Black RRC Vogue 300tdi waiting in line.

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  1. joe1

    Bulkhead woes

    Tbh I'd suggest starting your welding OFF the vehicle first on bits of scrap - that way you can fine tune your wire speed / ampage and you don't have the hassle of going back and re-doing what you think you've already done. Although mig is, as others have said, relatively straightforward once you factor in difficult positions and access together with older metal that **may not** be of consistent thickness, jobs can suddenly become a whole lot more difficult. For that reason you've got to be confident in your basic approach being right - and you can probably achieve that in a few hours with odd bits of scrap that you can 'bend test' and look for penetration marks - and also you'll then be attuned to that sweet sound that mig makes when its welding right, so you get instant auditory feedback on your weld quality even before you look at the weld. Stick with it though - results will be worth it......
  2. joe1

    Help

    That's a great write up!!
  3. cam belt timing?
  4. joe1

    ABS problem

    Hi, your first step is to get the fault codes by bridging two terminals on the diagnostic socket and recording the number of flashes that the system delivers. If you google "abs fault codes discovery 1" you'll find some explicit instructions on the process. Do it a few times to make sure that you record the right codes - (and it aint particularly easy to decipher it all) and then look up the fault code. Just be aware though that once you clear some faults others may then make an appearance. Your comment about brakes completely failing is worrying though (abs problems don't normally cause that) and it may be that you have another unrelated brake problem that also needs diagnosing. Btw the normal startup sequence is that abs light comes on with ignition and engine start, and then goes off once moving at more than 5mph. Do some digging around and come back for more specifics, good luck
  5. I've never seen anything like that for a Disco - an almost impossible job as well for access without cutting huge swathes of external panel. I think Blanco above is talking Defenders not Discos!
  6. Bought a clear lense front indicator for a Disco 300 - and the lense wasn't even glued to the body along the whole top seam. Unbelievable how they can sell such utter rubbish - a blind man could have assembled it better. The other problem from the same order was a brake hose that leaked from where the rubber inserts to the ferrule - straight out of the box
  7. And also you might want to source/check the correct sender - (lots of threads on here about it and a can of worms in its own right!) as has been said should normally sit at halfway point on the dial
  8. Glad you finally got it sorted - must admit I'd lost track of where this thread was. I do remember saying that the std Lucas ignition bits were carp. Whether this is because the 'new' Lucas isnt the same quality as the 'old' Lucas I dont know. Permanent fix is to retrofit one of the aftermarket amps (aulro have a good description of whats required) - doesnt have to be a brightly coloured ££ box either. Anyway you probably wont want to do that just yet. Just think how much you've learned about v8s in the process of all this though!
  9. ...ages ago now, but it was a mates version - he did say there were lots of different versions around and things like vcds that were updates of the older vagcom
  10. Of course you can patch it - but your patches will end up a few inches up the wheelarches. Whether this matters to you is up to you. The whole area is covered so can't be seen. And then of course other welding will need doing like body mounts or sills. So depends on how long you intend to keep the vehicle etc etc. If you are going to replace the floor though you will also need the Z channel mounting bits - the bits the boot floor sits on. These cost nearly as much as the boot floor if you need four of them (from YRM panels) - or less of course if youve got a local fabricator. Choices, choices....
  11. +1 I agree with the vagcom comment as well - I also had a play with one on an older petrol VW engine. Brilliant tool, and completely free - apart from buying a link cable for something like a fiver
  12. These do get cruddy with age - just bypassing the sedimentor with a new length of fuel hose is the easiest way round it - you've still got the fuel filter up front to catch anything nasty
  13. it's also worth eliminating air leaks finally - can potentially be anything that connects to plenum so I'm thinking crankcase breather. brake booster or even fuel regulator. could try blankng all ports off just to elimi ate and then test- wouldn't drive without the brake booster tho! Also check stepper seats properly - no washer but thread sealant
  14. Throttle pot is adjustable so you might also want to re-check the basic settings for throttle pot and air flow meter - this link seemed quite clear http://www.v8wizard.com/Setting_Air_Mass_Flow_Meter_and_Throttle_Pot.php
  15. Did you clear the fault with diagnostics? - it may have become a hard (permanent) fault by that time.
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