reb78
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Posts posted by reb78
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I would have thought that fabricating the sill rail out of some decent RHS would provide a decent solution.
2mm vs 3mm on the original design is probably neither here nor there in a side impact situation? I would imagine box would be better but it does introduce another rot point. Should be fairly simple as its just a straight piece from the A pillar to C pillar.
B pillars are spot welded I think - pretty sure I can see the spot welds through the paint a the bottom of mine. C pillars were so I think B will be the same.
I am considering the galv option from YRM for when i rebuild mine.
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9 minutes ago, 300tditaffy said:
Great that’s good news, I thought about running the 200 pump until I sorted the original pump out
Thats what i did. Ran the 300 pump while my 200tdi pump.was reconditioned.
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Yep. I ran a 300tdi pump on my 200tdi for a good few months. Didnt notice any difference.
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3 hours ago, Green200tdi said:
Well thank you sir I’ll bare that in mind next time I visit McDonalds,
even with the interior light
all that was I needed to plug in my 10AS
it seems every easy question is followed by a difficult answer🤷♀️
don’t worry I’ll sort it.
Trouble is you might not 'do' wiring diagrams but all you are asking is for everyone else to do them for you.
Multiple people gave solutions on that other thread including several saying that you needed the 10as for this loom!
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20 hours ago, muzaz said:
Island 4x4, sends shipping quotes within a couple of days and the prices are good and delivery fast, within a week from order.
You are screwed if you ever have a problem with a part with them then - happy to take your money, not happy to resolve problems when they occur... just making you aware!
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1 hour ago, Peaklander said:
If you have a TD5 loom and you have connected the interior light to it, then earthing out the door switches won't switch the light on unless the rest of the system is correct. That is because the door switches are not directly connected to the light. They go to the 10AS. If it isn't fitted then the light cannot work unless you either fit the 10AS or you bypass it.
Its like there is an echo here.
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13 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Didn't someone (I want to say @bill van snorkle) make or talk about making a true splitter gearbox that sat in front of the main gearbox, perhaps using 3rd/4th/5th only from another gearbox or something like that?
Always seemed an interesting idea but not super easy to implement.
I dont remember that but could be interesting to find the discussion.
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1 hour ago, Little mule said:
That over drive looks like it’s got a deep sump on it .
I live in a very hilly part of the country and having the ability to split gears is what I’m looking for .
if someone has a GKN installed and has a measurement of the distance I might be able to get some one here to have a look at doing something . Measurements between the exhaust and so on and maybe a pic or two .
I know a cpl of really good machinists in the club who would love nothing better than to tackle something like this .And im sure bomber will come up with something 👍
Just a note - people speak of these ODs as splitters but 3rd plus OD is pretty much 4th and 4th plus OD is pretty much 5th etc... - thats on the LT77 and R380. The plus OD is ever so slightly lower than the next gear up but not a lot. Mine is basically a 6th gear that allows me to retain the original 1st gear ratio.
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3 hours ago, Daan said:
Interesting video. I had a lift pump fail, as in stopped pumping, which shows as the engine needing several turns before it starts. I believe one of the valves in the pump failed. The engine still ran, as the high-pressure injection pump is self-priming. I don't see an electric pump being more reliable personally, as it is always electrics that let you down in my experience.
I was changing lift pumps every 6-12 months. They were Delphi or Genuine. Some failed due to the diapragm splitting - thats a non running vehicle as diesel is peeing out down the engine block amd not getting to the FIP. I run a lot on SVO at 100% which possibly didnt help the diaphragm. Since fitting the electric one in 2015 I havent touched it. I wouldnt call that less reliable.
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I know its not what you want to hear but why the obsession with discs on the rear? Its the absolute bottom of my list of mods. I can lock my 110 up on a dry road. I tow up to the legal limit and the brakes are spot on, all maintained properly and totally stock.
Theres a few points...
1. Properly adjusted drums?
2. Have you rebuilt or replaced the front calipers? Reason for asking is that people never keep up with the reccomended brake fluid changes. When I rebuilt my calipers I found the lower fluid channels were gummed and blocked with rubber seal goop. No fluid was passing. I wonder how many older calipers are like this and reliant on the upper fluid gallery for flow between the two halves of the caliper... the WSM states not to split them so I guess many dont and dont spot this and clear the gallery.
Even vented discs are not that necessary if you arent towing down the alps all day..
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47 minutes ago, Ibex94 said:
Also look out for @vulcan bomber, he's now got his own gasket set, bearings and main seals, only a matter of time before he's got a kit of o rings.
The beauty of what @vulcan bomber is doing is that he is developing bits for the defender GKN ODs specifically and looking at how to fix a number of their weaknesses.
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My choice of pump may be overkill but it all works.
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52 minutes ago, mart010 said:
Can you point me in the right direction? What electric pump can I use?
Sure. This was what I did:
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I gave up with mechanical lift pumps and fitted an electric one. No problems since 2015...
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1 hour ago, Little mule said:
My friend mentioned this as well . They are either in and out the same end or a through and through. I’m thinking the shifting piston might be the same thread and some parts might fit.
he also mentioned that he had one that was shifting in and out on its own . He took it apart and found the “O” rings were worn out on the internal pistons . He replaced them and it worked very well.
we might find or be able to find parts this way rather than paying the arm and leg price from known dealers.
I’ll take a look at one or two of them this week when I have some time .
the shift button on the shifter and wiring might be a little more robust than the GKN versionTony
Overdrive rebuild services in sheffield sell parts for the laycock type overdrives. A lot of the bits they sell for the J type are compatible with ours. But there are some defender specific bits they dont sell.
https://www.overdrive-repairs.co.uk/product-category/j-type-spare-parts/
Always better priced than D44 on everything too.
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3 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
Are they definitely 2 wire?
Only two wires connect to it.
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1 hour ago, Little mule said:
I have a long time rover friend and he has been running Volvo cares for years .
he has had the over drive systems in his Volvos as well.
I’ll be headed his way this week and we are going to be looking at the ins and outs of the over drives and see how close they are to the GKN .he told me on the phone that they did use some sort of speed control on them .
If the over drive was left on and you down shifted the over drive switched off . When you were back into forth gear it automatically came back on.the Volvo cars used two types of engagement button . One of them was on the shifter like the GKN and the other type was a switch on the dash like a signal light switch.
the hydraulic shift unit mounted on the side to shift it in and out could be connected directly and would work with out any problems.
he also stated when the over drive was on and you shifted into reverse nothing happened you just backed up.
I’ll have more info and pics as well.
Tony
The volvo units were GKN - I think they used D and J types. Pretty sure our defender ones are modified J types. The big difference is the drive on ours comes in and out the same end. On the volvo/triumph versions drive goes in the front and out the back.
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Its just a magnet to detect one dip (from memory) in a hunk of spinning metal. So its one pulse per revolution I guess. I dont know how it generates its voltage or what voltage that is though.
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I have one that definitely failed. Replaced just the sensor and it works again.
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I'd seriously throw the threat of legal action in for putting your signature on a document without your permission. I bet they back down at that, especially as their pictures show no damage!
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Sinnce you didnt sign that document I'd tell them that the use of your signature without your permission amounts to fraud and if they want to pursue you for damage that cannot be seen in the photos they have sent you, you will pursue them for fraudulent use of your signature.
I had this issue with a hire car in south africa. We were in a rush when we dropped the car off and a week later got a massive bill for wrecking two wheels and a bumper. We hadnt and there were four of us to testify to that. I got my card company to stop the charge, cancelled the card and then took it up with the hire car company. Ended up with an admission that someone had done it after drop off and was pulling a fast one and then an apology.
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Ralph, if its helpful to use a ramp, pop up. I cant offer much time to help but can offer use of my ramp so u can fit the OD. Makes very short work of the job. Local test drive and if there is a problem its quick to remove with the ramp.
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I have three. One works. I'm going to sell one to @vulcan bomber so he can figuremout how to modify/fix them more.
Those gaskets are a steal at that price, d44 is the only other place to buy them as far as I know and as David says, the cost for one is almost the same as his set!
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1 hour ago, Ibex94 said:
@reb78 have you pulled the transfer box gear and shaft out for an inspection?
A couple of times when doing other jobs. I have no pics though.
Second Row Leg Room
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I have done similar. I fitted freelander1 rear seats to the middle row of my 110. I moved the whole lot back about four inches to make more leg room - it hasnt really affected the boot and can still use the original seatbelts with the way i have done it.