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reb78

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Posts posted by reb78

  1. 17 minutes ago, Ibex94 said:

    I found a ready made alternative to bent welding rods - the eyes of split pins.  Use a pair starting from one end, leave one behind close to the end then work the other one round helped with a screw driver or scriber.  Came out a treat - no bad language😇

    Excellent. I never would have thought of that!

    • Thanks 1
  2. 1 hour ago, Junglie said:

    The true irony about the ULEZ is that the most polluted area of London is...the tube. It's horrendous, but Chairman Kahn and his politburo would have us all crammed in there, regardless.

    The science suggests that extending the ULEZ to the outer London boroughs will have a negligible impact on air quality. But it'll raise a shedload of cash for Kahn's next vanity project.

    If we're going to do ULEZ for air quality reasons then do it like Edinburgh - if your vehicle doesn't comply you can't just pay and bring it in. You're not allowed to bring it in, full stop. I don't like it at all, but at least it's honest. Well, maybe...

    Agree with most of this. The bigger problem with ULEZ is that it hits the poor hardest. I have relatives in the zone. Some of them have always scrimped and managed. They spent inheritance from my grandma on a car (diesel). The car will not be able to be in the zone without paying a daily charge. They cant afford the charge, they cant afford a compliant car. They need the car to get the family to various places of work. Public transport is inadequate. They cant afford to move out of the zone. Their whole lives are there. They cant live in it, they cant move out of it. ULEZ will turn chairman khans suburbs into a rich suburbia while he swans the empty streets in his chauffeur driven Range Rover. Well done chairman khan. 

  3. 4 hours ago, Ibex94 said:

    Thanks @reb78  Yep I'd followed that bit, it's still an awkward little sod.  I've even got some proper circlip pliers which get me started but there's not enough space to then get the back out the groove.  Give it a go with a few more screwdrivers tonight.

    Its just a case of fiddling and levering gently. Move the pump so you have as much room as possible where you are levering. Make a couple of little levers like I did (old arc rod ends worked well for me - bend, trim and file them). It will flick off many times.... make sure noone is in earshot of the swearing. 

  4. Sorry. I thought you had it out and was sharing your frustration. My tip is above in the middle of my posts. Read the bit from 'Now even sneakier...' you need a small hooked tool to get underneath one end of the circlip to hook it out of the groove. Then a screwdriver or second hooked tool to hold it out as you work your way round easing it gradually out of the groove. Circlip pliers are useless in there as it has no tabs for them. 

  5. 47 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said:

    It cost me about £2.5k to get the 90 panels done in 2021, individually as the vehicle was stripped down. They could have done a better job as there are runs in a few places and some cracking/crazing in places. They also only did the outside of the panels as I was doing the inside myself.

    I’d expect to pay £4-5k for a proper high quality respray. And in reality you could buy the proper kit and have a go yourself for a hell of a lot less, which leaves a lot of spare for a few tries while you learn. But you’ll need the luxury of space and time. 

    What puts me off is getting the breathing gear wrong and killing myself with the 2k paints. What are folk using for breathing masks ?

  6. 8 hours ago, Little mule said:

    Hi everyone .

    this topic is very interesting to me.

    I have a brand new GKN over drive in my shop still in the box ready to install.

    my Goal is to install it into my 1990 RRC 2 door. Here in Canada the winters  are pretty harsh sometimes and the wires get corroded fast .

    I’m thinking I won’t be installing the speed sensor because I’m the only one who drive my truck . 
    Right now the old VM is a boat anchor but still starts and runs but you pour more oil into the intake than anywhere else lol.

    My plan is to do up a 300 with all the go fast goodies once I have the rotating assembly balanced . The only parts that are being reused are the crank shaft and connecting rods ,but I might up grade them to fractured rods instead of the factory machines rods.

    Ok back to the over drive .

    has or does anyone know of a person installing the over drive onto a auto box ? .

    im really not considering it but it would nice to know if it’s been done.

    my truck has a LT77S rebuilt by Ashcroft and I’m ditching the B/W T-case and going to a LT 230 with 1.4 gearing . 

    Both my front axle and rear are both going to be Salisbury diffs.

    I found a SNATCH truck front Salisbury out of the UK and I had a rear out of a 110. Both will have true-trac,s installed . I’m still not sure if I want to go with a bigger tire or just stay with the 235,s

    im also going with the softest springs I can I think are 125lb springs. I want a smooth ride and air suspension doesn’t work well here in Canada . I also have the factory load lifting unit in the back and it still works well.

    The over drive takes ATF and that may be part of the problem I think. ATF is designed for pressure and allows slippage in a auto box and it burns up pretty easily.

    my B/W T-case burns it up regularly if I don’t change it every 10k miles .

    my LT77 also takes ATF but I changed it to Castro 5W50 synthetic engine oil . The oils is designed to lube bearings and bushings .

    I have a friend that’s lived in S/A and his dad was burning up ATF and his tranny in his 110 and it was running super hot . I suggested for him to change the ATF out and install the Castrol engine oil. He did change it and his tranny temp dropped by 30 degrees and ran smoother and shifted better.

    I have also done it on my LT77 and it makes a huge difference .

    I wonder if this oil change solution would work with the GKN ? 

    I have read somewhere you can buy a deeper sump for the GKN and it gives you a little over a liter in the reservoir .

    the deeper sump also have cooling fins that are now exposed to ail flowing over them to help cool the oil .

    just my thoughts .

    im also very interested in anyone’s thought of things I should do and need to know before I install it into my RRC .

    I’ll be going with the same setup as most 238/85/16 tires , 1.4 T-case and a five speed . 
     

    My turbo set up is a hybrid rover/ cosworth Turbo with three inch exhaust all the way back .

    im still trying to decide on weather on not to use the 300 disco exhaust manifold instead of the factory 300 unit . The disco manifold will keep the heat of the turbo away from the intake manifold which should increase performance and not heat soak all the inlet piping to the intake manifold .

    I bought the over drive brand new 10 years ago and opened it up to get the owners manual and put some preservative on whole unit and packed it up and stored it . I hope to have it out and installed in the next cpl of years lol.

    Thanks for all your info and advise I look forward to hearing from you all .

    Thanks 

    Tony 

    ps this is my ride and those are factory wheels from Land Rover  

    IMG_0263.png

    Nice RR. I have never heard of anybody fitting a GKN with an auto. 

    It will mate nicely with the 300tdi, LT77, LT230 combo. 

    I run my overdrive hard in the 110. Lots of long motorway (250 mile stints in one go) and it sits nice at 80 behind my 200tdi. My experience says use ATF and change it every 6k miles - which is when I do engine oils anyway. I ha e done about 150k on my overdrive like this and it was secondhand when I fitted it. You point out yourself why the non auto suitable oils arent really right for it. My ATF will come out a little brown but not burnt at those intervals. I wouldnt leave it longer though - the factory oil change recommendations are waaaaaay too long. 

    I am looking at a getting a deeper sump. @vulcan bomber is looking at making one. This will have a massive benefit IMO by increasing oil capacity and helping cool the sump oil if designed appropriately. 

  7. 1 hour ago, ThreePointFive said:

    I get exactly why you say this, but Audi (for example) is a brand based 85% on badge value and the engineering of the 15% of their cars very few people can afford to buy so it's not exclusive to JLR or even unusual in the least.

    Oh. I'm sure thats the case. I only butted in as people thought the freelander had dissapeared when i'm.pretty sure it was just rebadged in a marketing gimmick. 

    • Like 2
  8. 10 hours ago, Chicken Drumstick said:

    It is more upmarket. The Freelander was an entry point into the brand and attainable for lots of people. Not sure on pricing but they must have been about the cheapest way into the brand bar maybe a base model pickup. 
     

    The DS might still be the entry point but it is probably double the price of a new Vitara or other small crossover/suv. 
     

    The Freelander was introduced to combat the affordable Japanese AWD’s such as these:

    https://cars.suzuki.co.uk/new-cars/vitara/?CampaignCode=&source=ppc&gad=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyq_u8Ii1gAMVjsPtCh2aRA0FEAAYASABEgIZB_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
     

    Maybe I’m just out of touch with prices. But £45,000-50,000 for an entry level DS does seem somewhat pricey. Certainly beyond the means for many. 
     

    So I’d say yes. The Freelander line currently does not exist. Not in practice or in name. 

    I disagree. The entire range had seen massive uplifts in price. I mean a disco used to be the 40k model and now its what used to be RR territory. If you look at the price gaps between models they are kind of relatively what they used to be but all models have seen a big upshift in price. 

    I'm sure there was a lot of press about the rebranding of freelander to disco sport when they did it. It was the same engine wasnt it. Not sure if it shared running gear too. 

    • Thanks 1
  9. I've had layshaft bearings make that noise under load on my old LT77 (happened twice). I would say that's potentially a gearbox issue... I dont know the series boxes but on the LT77 fourth is on the mainshaft and so its a LOT quieter as the layshaft isnt under load the noise was still noticeable when accelerating.

  10. Why would a shock absorber work at all? The Boge strut is like a pump with a preset height. A shock just damps the spring motion doesnt it, rather than maintaining height - the springs do that in combination with a shock absorber. I can see how an air strut might work but might also need some kind of damping function at one end?

  11. 3 hours ago, Sigi_H said:

    In 1992 Boge and Sachs merged. Now it is part of ZF Friedrichshafen. The principle remains, but our self leveler has a separate high pressure tank. If there is a diaphragm in that tank, its over when it is gone.

    Thanks for the PDF

    Sigi

    I was told there is a diapragm when I looked into this.

  12. On 7/4/2023 at 6:03 PM, western said:

    reb78 looked at reconditioned units 

     

    Yeah - I tried but if you read to the end, I gave up. The recon one spat its oil out everywhere. The place that were looking at it for me were miles away and I just couldnt donate the time to the project as i needed the 110 on the road reliably. The TD5 progressive springs have been absolutely fine to be honest. I wouldnt hesitate to suggest just using them instead - especially given the ludicrous prices some companies want to recon the original Boge strut... the ride was nice but it wasnt worth what they are asking. 

    • Like 2
  13. I bought tweetyducks National Luna weekender in the end. Brilliant fridge/freezer. Kept the ice cream frozen and beers cool in Mediterranean heat across France. Low power comsumption. Think I ran it for five days on the starter battery at one point (without starting) and it started the car fine when we moved on. 

    • Like 1
  14. I had a close look at one at the Cornwall Show at the weekend. Nice looking truck overall. Nice interior. More leg room in the middle row than in the back of an old Defender. The cockpit was a nice place. You can see the BMW influence which isnt bad but the screen and gearlever look very BMW! The rear doors make the load area much more useable than the Defender rear!

    Running gear almost looks very Discovery 3 in its setup (the bits you can see). Biggest surprise was the rear third ground clearance... much less ground clearance than I expected to have here. It looks like the trailing arm chassis attachments really hang down and what I think is the fuel tank is really low. Even my D3 and L322 have better ground clearance for sure (as do my 110 and D2) - what was most telling was how scraped up rear end of the underside was where it had been used off road. Lots of mud - more than my 110.

    • Like 2
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