paulnb57
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Posts posted by paulnb57
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Thanks for the link, Stuck ....
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Treat yourself to one of the Megasquirt wash / wipe upgrades .
You can remove the existing washer jet by giving it a sharp sideways tap with a hammer.
New kit can then be fitted by removing nothing more than the ash tray.
After 15 mins work you end up with washers that actually work.
Link?
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Remove the whole top pad, its still a fiddle, but the whole dash need not be removed....getting the nut started pn the thread is a pain as it is easy to cross thread it, but patience and perseverence pays off.....
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I was thinking about what else could be causing the issue and was going to post suggesting having a look at the gear/bush fit, I think you have found the problem......
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Is the dash all assembled? if not I'd be inclined to pull the wiper assembly apart and see if there's anything amiss. I dont think you need to remove the wheelboxes from the bulkhead, but if you could get the covers off the back of the wheelboxes, you could then try to see if a) The cable binds in the tubes or, b) the wheelboxes are binding or, c) its misassembled somehow.....or something is damaged...
I did the same a you I think to marry a tdi motor to td5 wheelboxes........it does work with no issues.....
The way the wipers work is pretty simple, (Im sure you realise this and am not trying to teach egg sucking), the motor turns the worm gear, which turns the big gear, which converts rotarty motion to push/pull......theres not really a lot to go wrong.......IMHO so,ething mist be either worn or binding or wrongly assembled, I just can't think what else it could be.......
The load on a battery from just a wiper motor with no drag from wipers, shouldn't quickly drain a good battery I dont think.....
Paul
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No, you can't turn the gearwheel by hand the worm drive on the motor spindle will prevent that, did you notice if there was much of a delay between movement at the wiper when going from pull to push? I'm wondering if there is either slack or binding causing a delay that the motor catches up with causing the 'kick'?......
Does it look OK where the worm makes contact with the big gear?
Good luck!
Paul
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I'd be inclined to pop the cover off the motor, detach and pull/push the cable in its sleeve to see if theres much play in the wheelboxes.
All the motor does really is go round and round then the crank arrangement does the pushing and pulling, I bet there's play somwhere. How old are the wheelboxes and if recent were they Gen or Pattern. I fitted pattern to mine and anticpate the first time I flick the wiper when frosty (in error) they will fail...pattern ones have poor reputation....
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Are you sure its the motor and not the wheelboxes, td5 style sh@tpart wheelboxes are renowned for failing, could it be them causing the clunk?......
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I will be interested in the reply as to what other folk use, having standard 90 seals on mine with Series Doors and RM tops, it doesn't all quite fit, and its draughty(er) than normal.....
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I managed to marry 300 tdi vents with a td5 bulkhead, with the old style levers, but used td5 wiper boxes and it all works well, if you go this route use Genuine wiper boxes, ****part strip easily......I vaguely remmeber massaging the shape of the intermediate tube, to get it to work, the tube is only a guide for the inner so a gentle bend does no harm....
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Not sure it really matters, my 90 is RAF blue and i changed the colur to Blue/Grey on the V5
Paul
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I have an Ashcroft R380, with supposedly better gershift, utter sh*te! Its crunched into second from day 1, learned to live with it, but disappointing in a recon box from a specialist.....
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Sorted by removing the bolt, reversing the Copper washer and reassembling, Sods law these things happen when I cant get to a shop, but will replace the Copper washer with a new one, cant for the life of me work out why it decided to start leaking though.....
Thanks VB!
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Thanks VB will do, managed to find a diagram online but wasnt sure if I would disturb anything by removing the bolt.....
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I believe the housing is called the distributor head and the leak seems to be from the centre of it....
Paul
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Folks I have diesel leak from the back of the Fuel Injection Pump, where the four metal pipes come out of the back to feed to the injectors, the leak appears to be from the centre of the housing the 4 pipes exit from, I can't see particularly well but there appears to be an allen bolt (?) in the centre of the housing and that appears to be where its leaking from, can I fix it or is it a specialisy jobby?
Cheers
Paul
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Cut the chassis number off the old chassis and keep the piece of chassis, then no one can liberate it from the scrappy and you can show its yours if asked.....
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I had a similar very frustrating problem on the other halfs 90, after many parts changes I eventually removed the Panhard Rod bolts and they were ovalled slightly, my point here is levering the Panhard rod suggested there was no issue, removal suggested otherwise and new bolts cured it......also check the fit of the bolt on the brackets as they can oval too, easy fix by welding a washer on.....but remove the rod to check!
Paul
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Thanks!
Paul
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Could anyone give me the part number for the thin nuts that space the spare away from the carrier please
D1/Defender
Thanks
Paul
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Thanks!
Paul
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Could someone be so kind as to look up the part number for the fuel return restricter banjo, ln 300tdi, when I did my rebuild I feel pretty sure I used the same banjos all round.......
Thanks!
Paul
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With the above company, you enter your part number and the search results usually give a choice between, Britpart, Allmakes, Bearmach or Genuine at least then you have an idea of quality.....
Paul
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Is this the most expensive non-ROW ninety ever?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I'm surprised the Huddersfield LR centre stays in business, considering the ridiculous ammout they ask for their trucks.....there must be some mugs about, same at Nene Overland......