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paulnb57

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Posts posted by paulnb57

    Get a Grip

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Winter tyres have a softer compound than "normal" tyres and so grip better - apparently a normal tyre starts to become less effective at about 3degrees........experts consider all terrains to be better than muds for snow - you want the tread to clog with snow - then the snow in the treads grips the snow on the ground..........apparently

    Paul

    What are +2 springs?

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Not really!! +2 inch spring are longer than standard springs by enough to lift the truck chassis by about 2inches, they are generally firmer to compensate for the increase in ride height. Ground clearance under the axles is not improved by a spring lift, but it allows a larger diameter tyre to be fitted to remedy this. A 2 inch lift will increase the distance that the chassis is above the ground. Not sure about spring rates but an email to you supplier of choice should get you the info you want.

    Hope that clarifies it for you!

    Paul

    Rattling drivers window

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    The glazing channel is generally held in with self tappers which can be a pig to remove and then the glass comes out with the channel - replacement is the reverse but IIRC you will have to cut a slot for the window lock - its a fiddle to get a drill in there for the new self tappers. The self tappers need screwing well in so that the glass rests on the felt rather than the head of the screws -Its a fiddle but do-able.....

    Attempted theft, now my ignition is bust...

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    I put this write up on a different forum a while back............

    I recently replaced the whole ignition lock, fairly straightforward job - remove the top and bottom of the column shroud and pull back the indicator/hi beam switch gaiters towards the ends of the switches. Then remove the security bolts from the ignition lock - these fit from underneath into a recess and are tricky to get at. When fitted they tighten until the hex head breaks off making them tamperproof, which also makes them tricky to remove. So, I've read of different ways of removing them

    1) Drill a hole up into the body of each bolt (2) and use a stud extractor. Never tried it as I know Id break the extractor in the bolt.........

    2) Use a Dremel with a thin cutting disc to create a screwdriver slot and unscrew them. Never tried this either - no Dremel!

    3) My method -

    a)get a sharp centre punch and locate the sharp end of the punch as far off centre of the bolt as you can and keep it parrallel to the bolt - then hit it with a hammer - at this stage you are not trying to undo the bolt just trying to form a punch tip sized dent in the end of the bolt. Hit it a couple of times so there is a good sized dent that will assist in the next step

    b) locate the punch in the dent you have just created and now lean the punch over so the point faces in the unscrew the bolt direction and tap the centre punch keeping it located in the dent. It should start to unscrew. The dent keeps the punch in the right place on the bolt.

    It will probably only undo half a turn before you run out of room so create another dent and carry on tapping it round.

    Do the same on the other bolt and eventually you will be able to turn them with needle nosed pliers or similar.

    The bolts are underneath the steering column, and conveniently you are kneeling on the drive, head upside down, door keeps blowing closed on you, your specs keep falling off and the dog wants a pat..... etc etc...........

    c)When the bolts are out wiggle the half round clamp from underneath and wiggle the lock assembly out from the top of the column. Don't pull too far as the wires will come off then you are stuffed..........

    d)Hold the new one next to the old one and swap each wire over - best make a drawing cos you dont want to muddle them up. On the 300tdi there are 4 sepearate wires with spade terminals - no multi plug.........hence being stuffed........

    e)Refit the lock on top of the column - you will feel the steering lock tab locate in its hole , fit the half round clamp from underneath, and refit with 2 normal bolts so its easier next time or dont tighten security bolts to the point of breaking the heads off. Yes I know it makes it easier to steal, but if someone has got that much dismantling done, they will have it away anyway..................

    f)Start her up and check light indicators etc still work, cos you dont want to take the shroud etc off again.......ask me how I know......

    g)Refit the shrouds and switch gaiters.

    h) put the kettle on and award yourself a medal.

    Performance issues

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Just re-read your post - no there is no filter on the fuel pickup pipe

    You say turbo pressure is down on a previous reading - it could be that a turbo hose is collapsing internally, sometimes they delaminate.....as far as I know the wastegate linkage should move quite freely - soak the linkage in WD40 or similar............

    Performance issues

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    In my experience there is very little difference in performance between a 200 and 300..........

    White smoke is usually an indication of air or not enough fuel, too much fuel would give black smoke, burning engine oil would give blue smoke.

    Start with simple things, crack the bleed nipple on the top of the injector pump, while its running a) to see if there is any air in the system (bubbles from the bleed nipple), and b) to see if the fuel pump is OK. I wouldnt be surprised if the fuel pump was tired.

    Check the fuel filter in the engine bay - in fact replace it they are cheap enough...........

    I had a very similar problem when I put a non turbo 300 into a Series 1 - ticked over OK but started with white smoke, wouldnt pull, sometimes spluttered to a stop. Turned out to be water in the fuel tank being picked up and pulled through.

    Work methodically and you will find the problem eventually. Also check the turbo hoses internally to see if one is collapsing

    Good Luck!!

    Paul

    Is a steering damper required when running PAS

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    Gareth

    AFAIK all the coil sprung Land Rovers were fitted with a steering damper, so I guess it would make sense to fit one - they fitted them for a reason. The steering drag link is available with the damper bracketry in place for the Series and is not too dear (£17.95 from Craddocks) and the chassis bracketry shouldnt be too difficult to fab up............

    Paul

    1957 Series 1 with a poorly 3.5 V8

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    Ive fitted a 300 di (tdi without the turbo)in my 57 Series 1 - however it already had a series 3 box. I doubt the original box would last long if using a 300 with the turbo..........so mybe a box swap is on the cards a well.......

    As far as a 300 goes its easier if you go di rather than tdi as there are issues with room for rad/oilcooler/intercooler etc. Its doable just more hassle. A 200 di is easier - checkout this site

    http://www.glencoyne.co.uk/200di.htm

    If going di you will need a 2 1/4 diesel exhaust manifold and clamps then use the

    2 1/4 diesel exhaust system. You also need a fuel return pipe to the tank.

    There are a couple of large alloy tabs on the 300 clutch housing that will need to be removed cos they hit the series gearbox x member, then it will mate to a Series 2/3 box with one hole needing to be drilled and tapped at the 6 oclock position in the clutch housing. On the S3 box a 9 1/2 inch standard clutch/cover fits. Also the 300 has a serpentine belt to drive the power steering pump alternator etc, so you need to take the rollers out of the power steering pump and pack it with grease to use as an idler wheel. You also need to blank off the oil cooler lines and remove the thermostat from behind the oil filter housing. A new engine mount needs welding on the chassis on the drivers side. Radiator hoses are a drama and will need fabricating from other hoses. With standard diffs it revs it tits off at 45/50 so I fitted 200 Disco diffs which improves things. Its no rocketship but keeps a similar character for a S1 and does about 35mpg.

    Good Luck

    Paul

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