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muddy4x4xfar

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Posts posted by muddy4x4xfar

  1. hi all, I'm about to do a conversion a 200tdi to a 3.9 v8 engine, ill be looking to sell the 200tdi engine with radiator intercooler starter turbo, alternator power steering pump also has zircon pump as well, etc,

    on average how much would you say its worth , it had a new head gasket with skimmed cylinder head 5000mile ago or there about, its always had land rover full service equipment whilst ever i have had it - 11years now, and a rebuilt turbo also about 5000 miles ago.

    I'm looking to put it on eBay so any idea would be much helpful.

    many thanks

    chris

  2. Yep, just an engine loom, it connects up in the drivers footwell, very easy to splice, maybe even plug in depending on year.

    brilliant thank you, besides engine mounts is there anything else that will need changing over , i am currently doing a lot of research into it all. these are just question i can't find answers to , not to sound stupid if that makes sense.

  3. You certainly use a manual, they cope fine with the power, they are harder to find, and the autoboxes are SO much nicer to drive though.... :) Drive both then make a decision?

    Obviously need an EFI in-tank fuel pump, you may find you can re-use the lines, if not then just transplant them from your donor or make from scratch.

    Need the EFI loom and ECU, exhaust, air filter.

    TBH, the simplest method for this is to buy a running donor vehicle then transfer everything across, and you KNOW you have everything you need.

    Pictures of a conversion will just look like a factory installation, as everything is interchangeable, so doubt you would glean much from them...

    thats great thanks, is it a full loom change over or is it an engine loom change do you know, my problem is going to be space which i dont have for a donor vehicle which was going to be my first thought if i could , just change everything over,

  4. hi all, im on with rebuilding my 200tdi 1993 discovery , a full rebuild, i know most are going to say its not worth it but this was my first ever car i bought at 15 an its been with me ever since.

    so what im wanting to do is put a 3.9 v8 into it, obviously more power and speed. not bothered about fuel.

    i know some have done this but never seen a write anywhere on things that will need changing etc, hopeing you guys could give me some advice on what has to be done,

    also could i use a manual gearbox or do they have to be auto for these engines, i.e coping with the power etc.

    any advice would be much appreciated also if anyone has any pictures etc of conversions done would be a big help too.

    many thanks

    chris

  5. hi all, im needing to replace my rear chassis crossmember on my discovery 200tdi, I'm not sure whether any of you guys have found any on the net before but I'm really struggling to find one, does anyone know where i can find one ? or maybe suggest something else, besides a new chassis ,

  6. Hi all, i have a 2000 reg discovery 2 td5 , I'm looking for a g4 challenge winch mount for the front, does anybody know of anyone selling one or where i can get an after market spec one or even someone selling second hand ,, land rover tell me there obsolete now, so I'm hoping someone on here may be able to help me.

    iv been told about the discreet winch mounts but I'm not overly keen on them.

    thanks for everyones help in advance .

    chris

  7. Hi all, iv come to start my discovery this morning when i turned the key in the ignition the lights came on the dashboard as normal but when it came to cranking nothing happened and all the lights went out. now yesterday when it came to locking the it i tried locking it off the fob and nothing would happen for about a minute or so. and then all of a sudden after pressing a few times and also trying the key in the lock to which nothing happened also, it decided to lock.

    once i finally got it going after a few goes this morning on the way to work i flashed my lights and the radio, clock, went off and abs and hdc and other light came on the dash board. vehicle still running at this point.

    im struggling to think about what it could be and the only thing i can think of is the BCU unit, would you guys agree, if so is there any way i could test the bcu i.e nanocom? would that pick it up maybe?

    any other ideas are more than appreciated

    many thanks

    chris

  8. I don't wish to be rude but if you aren't going to race it why would you like your Disco to be like a Wildcat?

    A Bowler Wildcat is a machine that was built purely for racing, it's not designed to be a daily driver or to have the articulation that you would want on a challenge truck.

    The suspension on your disco is (like most things on it) a compromise, yes you can change the suspension to make it handle (a bit) better just as you can upgrade the engine to give it (a bit) more power but it will never be a Bowler Wildcat.

    Even if you had thousands to throw at the suspension & engine, trying to turn it into something it was never designed to be, how long do you think it will be before something else breaks? (Chassis, body, transmission - take your pick!)

    Building a quicker Disco that handles better is one thing but it is not & never will go / handle like a Bowler Wildcat.

    :i-m_so_happy:

    ok another way of explaining it, :) a discovery with rally handling , i will be taking it off road but not building it purely for off roading ill use it every day as well. its like you can modify a subaru for rally as well take it rallying but also use it for everyday use.

  9. Oh yeah :ph34r:

    ACE is really good within the realm of everyday driving, but I'd take a long hard look at it if I wanted to do what you're talking about.

    I have a 2 door RR that handles far better than I ever expected it could. It'll bowl flat through a tight roundabout, the type with the elevated brick section like track rumble strips, at 45mph+ without getting upset. It's on Police springs (red & white) in the rear and blue HD's in the front, giving a notional +2". I have a mixture of OEM and poly bushes all round, and aftermarket shocks. It's on 235's. Even though it's lifted rather than lowered there are three key factors I think are making all the difference - 1. Overall it's a light car in LR terms. 2. The poly bushes and high rate springs make it very stiff (it's still v.comfortable but noticeably firmer in ride). 3. I made custom engine/gearbox mounts, and dropped the lot downwards, so engine and box sit a bit lower in the car because it's a Td5 & R380. It's an early RR without anti roll bars.

    The reason I started that by saying ACE is decent is because my D2 handles almost as well as the RR. That stands to reason when you consider that LR used ACE to allow them to put a softer spring in for more comfort and my D2 is also on +2" HD's all around - OME 779 front and 763 rear, I presume it isn't quite as supple as a standard D2 and it's a little tail happy, but it handles. There is one key distinction though. It's not as instant as good old fashioned stiff springs - you can feel the ACE working and the impression I get - albeit very subtle - is that the accelerometers don't trigger it until they sense a certain amount of roll or G. So in fast driving terms it's not quite as intuitive as just springs. It doesn't feel as predictably chuckable. I should say though that it bit me once or twice so I just don't bother getting too spirited with it.

    If I were you I'd set about putting standard height higher rate springs in. (there are -2" springs for Defender, but that's another story. In terms of cutting or heating/compressing springs, I just wouldn't) Then consider Polybushes, the debate rages onward but I haven't experienced anything bad with the set I have and they're just Britpart yellow. If you're going to build an engine then I suppose you could also move the mounts down while it's out, taking careful measurements for clearance of the front axle etc. Also worth considering that lighter wheels recover faster, but I think on a road going live axled LR that may well be academic.

    Lastly, I was just wondering have you been in a Bowler or similar? I love a machine with zero compromise but the suspension would drive me crazy for day to day driving. It'd be like hitting your bump stops on every little pothole, except they're made of nails. Pointy ones :D

    hi thats great, at least all something for me to consider, no I'm not going to be racing it ill be doing offloading with it, but nothing serious, no iv never been in a bowler wildcat, but if won lottery it would be first one id buy i think, I'm after that kind of thing but on my discovery its my first car i bought and had it since i was 15 year old so I'm not looking to get rid if it, but want it to be different from the rest, if that makes sense. I'm a fast driver, love rally kind of racing i.e dakar etc an wondered if it was possible to put that kind of thing onto a discovery as the bowler uses the same axles and trailing arms / radius arms etc I'm told , i didn't know whether it was a case of extra shocks of a certain type like the bowler the springs etc,

  10. You can make it handle better for sure but the laws of physics are going to fight you all the way.

    I guess the main question is going to be how much money are you prepared to spend?

    iv spent quite a bit on the vehicle, I'm at a point I'm planning on building an engine for it sticking to td5 but built for more power etc, id like to keep it looking original as in not stand out but as best performance i can get as possible, imagine a discovery 2 body on a bowler wildcat idea.

  11. hi all, i have a 2001 discovery 2, I'm looking to keep upgrade the suspension, for racing style handling, on road and off road, handling like the bowler wildcats basically, any ideas on what i can do ? where to go? etc, i use this vehicle every day , would love to be able to throw it into corners at speed etc, you get the idea,

  12. Hi mate. As a matter of interest, how do you know the head gasket is fine?

    Try the little rubber pipe section between the heater pipe and oil cooler housing on the N/S at the back between the turbo and the block. That goes.

    Then try the top coolant pipe elbow, the alu one with the temp sender in it, just behind the top of the fan. That goes like billyo.

    The Disco Td5 does have a convoluted group of metal bottom pipes that tend to corrode from the inside out. It'd be worthwhile taking the thin plastic road shield off from under the car in the radiator/front chassis cross member area and having a good look around. You'll usually see coolant trails or clean patches if there's been any leaking.

    The wiliest leak (on any engine) is the pin hole in a pipe that only fires a high pressure mist when under load, so totally undetectable at idle. The steam cleaned nearby patch of engine being one of the only possible clues.

    The last place is the outlet hole on the bottom of the water pump. If the seals in the pump are going (as in if the pump is toast) then there'll be coolant, or the pink remains of coolant, in/around/outside the outflow hole on the housing it shares with the A/C. An inspection mirror and a torch will be your friends.

    If you've been at the bottom drain plug, the dowty seal that goes on the plug is often toast and can weep. (I've mine sealed with Hylomar so if anyone knows the size of that dowty seal I'd love to know it - or how to measure a dowty)

    sorry i forgot to say thank you for the information ill give it a look tomorrow :) thank you

  13. Hi mate. As a matter of interest, how do you know the head gasket is fine?

    Try the little rubber pipe section between the heater pipe and oil cooler housing on the N/S at the back between the turbo and the block. That goes.

    Then try the top coolant pipe elbow, the alu one with the temp sender in it, just behind the top of the fan. That goes like billyo.

    The Disco Td5 does have a convoluted group of metal bottom pipes that tend to corrode from the inside out. It'd be worthwhile taking the thin plastic road shield off from under the car in the radiator/front chassis cross member area and having a good look around. You'll usually see coolant trails or clean patches if there's been any leaking.

    The wiliest leak (on any engine) is the pin hole in a pipe that only fires a high pressure mist when under load, so totally undetectable at idle. The steam cleaned nearby patch of engine being one of the only possible clues.

    The last place is the outlet hole on the bottom of the water pump. If the seals in the pump are going (as in if the pump is toast) then there'll be coolant, or the pink remains of coolant, in/around/outside the outflow hole on the housing it shares with the A/C. An inspection mirror and a torch will be your friends.

    If you've been at the bottom drain plug, the dowty seal that goes on the plug is often toast and can weep. (I've mine sealed with Hylomar so if anyone knows the size of that dowty seal I'd love to know it - or how to measure a dowty)

    because its had a new head gasket recently and it was leaking well before that was done :) that would of been my first suspect too.

  14. so iv had this leak for a while now. the head gasket is fine. but the coolant level keeps dropping by about a litre , give or take, if i check it a week later its dropped by that much again, where would you guys recommend looking as in is there any common places that leak?

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