plank22

Sorry was bed time!! Yeh I bolted it on. Is there any electrical conns that make a difference I would guess at it all being mechanical. Would the prps not being on make a difference, at least one flange would turn?

I knew about putting the TC on to the box first and tried to make sure it was fully home too. Does the oil pump fill up the TC with oil? Thanks

where abouts be the oil pump, i take it deep inside the box? the engine was only running for about a minute. will spilt cooler pipes tomorrow and see if i get any circulation. thanks.

I have just got the 3.9 engine and auto box in my S3 hybrid and run the engine up today but im not gettting any drive from the box. During the install some oil was lost from the box and all most all from the torque converter. Before running it up I topped up the oil using the dip-stick and it didnt seem to take that much so i started the engine and tried all the gears but no drive to the output flanges (props not on yet). I know very little about auto boxes and need it all working for the weekend and im worried i may have broken something from starting the engine! Once the engine had run the oil level hadn't gone down at all. How does the torque converter get the oil, do i need to fill it up manually and have i broken it? The oil cooler isnt attached yet and thinking about it now i should check if im getting circulation there? its just looped with pipe. Thanks for any help in advance!

thanks for the link but it broke.......

cheers for the input guys!

thanks for the replies. was just wonderin about mud and water, more for the sensor really.

im in the process of going to EDIS and was thinking about making a trigger wheel to go on to the flywheel as I was worried about using one on the crank from gettting damaged or muddy. Does any one else use the crank and if so any water mud problems? Its want to think about it as making a trigger wheel for the fly wheel will be alot of work!

I have been having trouble bleeding the brakes on my S3 diesel so i decided to replace the slave cylinder so I had a nice shiny bleed nipple as opposed to a round piece of rust. Anyhow after about 45mins of the usual kicking and screaming at rusted land rovers I noticed a flicker of light and cracking noises, looking closer at the flicking light I saw that my alternator had caught fire!!!!!! All on its own!!!! I put it out with a extinguisher and then all was fine. The wiring to the alternator is not far short of cack with lots of chocolate block and crimp connectors but the fire started inside the alternator, why? Its only just a year old it was from paddocks so didnt think much of it but I looked and it was lucas which is good as far as I know. Anyone shed any light? I did nail it through a few big puddles on the way there but could that cause a problem so long after the engine being stopped?

Hi, Trying to bleed the brakes on a '83 S3 and its such a pain that i feel im doing somthing wrong of need a special tool! The front bleed nipples are at the bottom of the hub and are obstructed but the four nuts that hold the bottom holf of the swivel on so making it extra hard that i can get to them! Any advise? Thanks.

Yeh i agree with you on the lack of X member! I think that i might be left with that problem which is why i thought about a 2 piece prop and having a horizontal stretch from the t.box to the x. member then having the secong half of the prop angled to go to the axle. Its a SWB. Thanks for the pics tho!

I im shoe horning a rangie auto box into my v8 S3 and the X member under the bell housing will foul the front prop. I hear some peeps cut the member to suit the prop, any one got any pics? I thought of a 2 piece prop would any one advise against this???

I hear that having the shoulder straps that low is a good way of breaking your collar bone.

oh yeh and i had coil springs at the time as wel so im not sure if the PAS box will hit any thing on the chassis, it didnt with the coils on only the front X member.

I have done it but not got any pics at the mo. I got a steering box, column and pump off a rangie classic. Its kinda serious work cos the steering box hits the front X member so you need to cut it out and make a new one and move it forward. The front grill will also need to go forward. I dont know what a disco column is like but i think i ended up cutting it to fit anyway at the bulk head end and used the bit at the other end with the 2 UJ's that go to the PAS box. Mine had an old 3.5 v8 in it so i drilled and tapped a few holes in the block to take the pump.

dont mean to hi-jack the thread but when i took the 3.5 out of my series i saw that the end of the crank had been cut, which i knew nothing about having to do. When i put the new engine in 3.9 everything seemed to mach up fine and all worked ok. Is the 3.9 different? Or is it because it was from an auto rangie? Nothing had been cut on the 3.9.

I will have to do a bit of moving me thinks as its a hybrid series 3. I put it in the rangie section as its half rangie half series and wanted to know about the rangie boxes! I used to run the 3.9 on a series box and the auto box is double the length and would leave me with a rear prop about 4" long. Im guessing that a series t.box is completley different to a rangie t.box?

most interesting! I havnt herd much bad stuff about the viscous t.boxes so now im definitly gonna go through the hassle of moving the engine about to fit the box in! that christmas sorted!

yeh all is the same i think bar the odd hose or something, i have only changed from a 3.5 to a 3.9 in my series 3 so dont know about rangie but i can definlty tell you that the loom, ECU will need to be changed and the air flow meter will be different on the intake. The 3.5 has a flapper type system and the 3.9 has hotwire which is apparently loads better. If you do change get a complete engine, loom and ECU as geting them sperate and in one piece can be hard work!

ok thanks alot for your help all!!!!

i was just thinkin that if you were stuck and your front wheel was spinning with a manual lock you could at least one wheel to turn at the back but with a viscous coupling it couldnt handle the massive lack of resistance at the front and send all the power there.

Errrm kind using it to invent new g.box x.member if i dont uend up using it will let ya know asap! On a visous coupling box if I took a prop out and tried to drive would it drive just the same as a manual diff lock?

But with a manual diff lock you will get 50/50 power front and rear but with a viscous coupling lock you will lose alot of power through the spinning wheel and end end up with say 20/80, this is what im lead to believe, any truth in it? the LT230 and the borg warner, are they both just the t.box you are refering to? Thanks alot.

Is a viscous coupling type diff-lock as good as a manual diff-lock on a rangie auto box? I'm thinking about converting to an auto box in my hybrid series and not too clued up on them. I have an old auto box kicking about and think its a 3 speed but know no more so can i tell from the casing numbers as to what type of diff-lock the t.box has? Also I have had the offer of another auto box (complete with t.box) that has a viscous coupling diff-lock. Out of the two boxes are the t.boxes interchangeable to different gearboxes? The second box I have been offered is a 4 speed. Thanks!