crwoody
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Posts posted by crwoody
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The blue "plug" is referred to as a "Header" on the wiring diagram, and as T1G UP says is just a way to connect a number of wires together (and an unreliable one at that.)
I had a similar problem on mine a while ago and found it was because of water that had got into the "header" and caused an electrical leakage path, (slightly less that a short!) between two of the connections.
I just cut off all the wires from the header and joined together all the ones of the same colour, I stripped and twisted them then soldered and finally covered each "group" with heat shrink sleeving. Never had a problem since.
Edited to add;
Make sure you have a clean and tight connection on the earth wire that's bolted down directly beneath the ECU too.
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I think I would be checking out the vacuum pump or servo first.
I just had a similar problem on my Disco 3 which turned out to be the servo.
A couple of years ago I lost brake efficiency on my Td5 90 and that was the vac pump.
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Disco 2 handbrake lever - a very useful mod, makes it a lot easier to reach, specially off-road when you're stuck on a 45° slope with the seatbelt jammed on !!
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Sounds to me like a faulty/open earth connection to the rear stop/tail lights.
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You should be able to tell if the door pin switches are OK by trying to set the alarm with the keyfob while the door is open, you should get a peep from the alarm as a "mislock" sound if they are working, provided the alarm mislock sound is programmed of course.
Might be a good time to invest in a NanoCom or similar, or at least try to find someone local who has one that they would be willing to share.
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Can't say I've ever had a problem with mine.
Maybe it has to do with the rubber seal going soft after a time? that could explain why some do it and not others, different quality components and all that.
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My 2001 (51 plate) 90 CSW didn't have them so I had to go down that route myself.
I managed to find a couple of decent length convoluted rubber "tubes" from the rear doors of a biggish Rover (I think?) from the local scrappy to run the wires down into each door.
I made up an interface to drive the lock motors with a pulse initiated by the 12v supply to the alarm volume sensor, this is switched on only when the alarm is set.
I hope this helps.
Clive
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I'll second the above, and if it is one of the props, (sounds likely,) avoid driving it until it's fixed as you will shake the guts out of the relevant diff or transfer box bearings & seals and give you a more costly repair bill.
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It's a bit more complicated than that on a Td5 I'm afraid, see diagram below.
The switch is a momentary contact operating the "Fog lamp ECU" (which I suspect is little more than a latching relay) which applies power to the lamp. I've no idea where the "ECU" is mounted though.
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As most of the above, I wouldn't want to be without mine - BUT - you do need to be aware that you will need to rotate the prop to "open up" the gap to get it onto the nuts without jamming or putting excess sideways force onto the bolts.
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A good clean up with a wire brush wheel in the drill and then a coat of POR-15 (I swear by it!) followed by a coat of chassis black.
POR-15 from here: -
(I have no connection with the above company but so far as I know it's the only UK stockist.)
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I think most old locks tend to get that way after a bit once they're well worn, I've had old cars before that you could open with a lolly stick.
A new set of locks should be a big improvement, I think the standard ones are reasonably secure when in good condition.
Of course, if someone wants your car, they will find a way in any case no matter what you put on there.
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A good rub down (as above) but then a thorough coat of etch primer before a top coat, that will help to provide a better key and keep the corrosion at bay, it would still be better to remove them first though.
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That's probably the best plan, I'm sure there are more useful toys you can buy with the money from it.
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I had them on my D3 and they were excellent, great in the snow and mud and very little noise on the road and long lasting too, the only downside being that they're a harder compound than the previous Pirelli's so a little less grip on tarmac is the pay-off for the longer life.
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A couple of years ago I went about 150 miles or so round the M25 & back at about 70mph with the centre diff locked, (the light wasn't working at the time,) I only noticed it when I got off the M'way and wondered why it handled a little strange round a roundabout.
Done loads of miles in it since then and there appears to be no long term damage.
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Lots of useful info about D3 in general here : -
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I don't know about the 120kph limit but the temp reading back to front will be because the ECU is programmed with a Disco Map file, I've done the same myself while experimenting with different mapping.
I'm assuming your Td5 is 2002 or later with a flashable UCU? (or at least the new ECU is.)
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.... The main reason I like having an electric fan on there is the huge amount of access I have to the front of the engine without the big cowling in the way. I could almost stand between the block and the rad if I wanted
You couldn't do that in a Td5, the cowl is very shallow.
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Personally I wouldn't bother with the electric fan, specially if you have the viscous one and it's in good condition. The simple solution is generally the most reliable.
I had one seize up once but it was replaced under warranty and has never missed a beat since.
I have to say I don't really believe the fuel saving claims made for the electric fans either, the consumption drops a tiny bit with the viscous seized, easy to tell, you can hear it roaring, but when it's working normally I doubt there's much difference if any.
The other thing is, there's very little room between the front of the engine and the radiator in a Td5.
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I guess if it's a new winch and the 8mm cable came with it as standard supply then I would assume it's rated for the winch.
Straight pull or snatch block shouldn't make any difference, with a snatch block you've got double the pull but essentially with double the cable thickness.
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As above, NFU gets my money every time - good cover with no silly questions or arguments, good on paying out too.
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When I check mine against my TomTom, I find it's pretty much spot-on all the way from about 20 up to 70, I have got slightly oversize tyres on though so that helps.
IMHO Sat nav is the way to go if you want to make a fairly reliable check, you just need to be travelling at a steady speed when you cross check it.
Certainly more reliable than trying to read your speed off a roadside sign.
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I've done the opposite by retrofitting the OEM electric winder mechanism to my 2001 Deafener.
That was just a straight swap of the mechanical parts so I guess the opposite should be just as easy, as far as I can see there's no difference in the doors.
Inconsistent Cluch
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I had a similar issue with mine a while ago, I was convinced it was the Clutch master cylinder seals leaking past because the "bite point" would sometimes sink to the floor while stopped in gear (waiting at a junction for example,) so I bought a new cylinder - and the problem promptly went away on it's own, It's been OK ever since, must be 2 or 3 years now.
Maybe sometimes you just need to threaten to repair it