crwoody
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Posts posted by crwoody
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" ... where exactly do i attach it to?? the thick wire attached by a bolt or the thin wire with the connector?? ..."
Whatever you do DO NOT connect an earth wire to either of these two, the starter motor earth is normally connected via the engine block, there should be one already connected, you just need to be sure it's secure.
If you're getting a clunk noise from the starter motor area, it sounds like at least the solenoid is operating, you need to determine whether the starter itself is doing anything.
Do the lights dim at all when the starter is operated?
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As above (M&S)
The starter solenoid contacts can get pretty badly worn and pitted over time.
The problem with simply cleaning them is that if they don't sit level, I.E. they're worn unevenly, the contact disc on the solenoid plunger only makes contact on one side and therefore fails to complete the circuit.
I replaced the full contact set on mine a while ago for the same reason.
Of course if it's only the relay that's clicking, you have a different (maybe simpler) problem.
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As above, (the fanbelt option,) but it helps no end if you have a buzz gun too, the impact action is very good for reluctant nuts where you have limited grip on the shaft it's attached to.
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Very unlikely for a relatively small gasket to fail spontaneously, I'd say it's almost certainly the pump.
The pump bearing is likely to be on the way out, excess movement here causes wear on the seal, try removing the belt and see if there's any play on the shaft.
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Not an uncommon problem I think, because the heater air intake is on the top of the wing, it tends to get a fair bit of water going in there.
There should be a rubber "Duck Bill" drainage point on the bottom of the inlet pipe/box under the wing top, these are inclined to get full of crud and block up thus preventing drainage.
I'd start there first.
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As e4yob says above, the lack of access to the battery is easily solved by adding a connector somewhere accessible, on mine, I fitted an Anderson connector just inside the rear door and wired a set of jump leads to the other half of the connector.
(The rear seat was removed merely to gain storage space.)
Being a Td5, the only other access problem then was the ECU, but it's not a big deal to remove the seat for the odd time when it might need to be got at.
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I had a set of Ford RS2000 Recaro seats in one of my Def'ners for a while, very comfortable to sit in but a pain to get in & out of the car, the trouble is that the seat bases are deeper than the standard seats, add to that the raised seat base bolster and the backwards tilt on the seatbox, it becomes near impossible to get in and get your legs under the steering wheel.
Uncomfortable for a passenger with short legs too, they're left with their legs dangling in the footwell and unable to reach the floor.
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There is a diode in series with the wire you mentioned, probably in the dash somewhere, (there was a post about this yesterday!)
Does the alternator warning light on the dash come on with the ignition off? If so it may be that this extra diode is shorted.
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When you say "... its still flapping about ..." do you mean the spring loaded tensioner or just the belt?
I think the belt flapping about is not unusual to a degree, more so when the engine is just ticking over, I know my old Td5 used to do it, I've just been out and checked the one I have now and it does it too but a lot less.
If it's as bad as you suggest, I think I'd try a new belt first, maybe it's worn unevenly.
While you've got the belt off, it's worth checking that all the other pulleys turn easily without any undue stiffness or noise, I've has to replace a few bearings in that area due to water/mud getting through the seals and wrecking the bearings.
As for the leak, I have to say I've never had a problem here so I can't say.
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I guess you mean "Diode (G182)" (bottom centre,) it will be there in order to block any reverse current flow when the ignition is off.
I can't tell you where it would be physically, I would have assumed that it's built-in on some alternators, not easy to tell though, but without that wire connected to the alternator your battery will not charge.
The "whistling" noise from the alternator could be due to heavy loading if the battery is badly discharged, I would suggest you put a voltmeter on the battery to check that it's not overcharging.
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Or you could wire the spot light relay feed from the main beam switch in the normal way and then fit a seperate dash mounted switch to turn off just the main beam headlights when you don't want them.
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Sounds like either the adaptor fittings on the ends of the spindles have come loose or there's just too much play or wear in the cable drive gearboxes.
On the gearbox there is back plate which holds the connecting tubes that the cable runs through, if these work loose you'll get a similar effect.
If you take the dash top off, you can get to the gearboxes and see what's going on and maybe tighten it all up, it's a bit fiddly but do-able.
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That's Land Rovers for you
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Last time I had badly wet footwells it was the foam seal around the bulkhead vents at fault.
They looked OK at a glance, but a closer look revealed that the strips along the top and bottom had come unstuck, so the foam was sagging down and not sealing against the lip around the bulkhead opening.
I also had it gushing into both footwells from the heater "knee level" vents, but that was after some heavy-duty wading when I forgot to shut off the heater.
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Yes, there is a wire to a switch on the T/box but it might also be that the switch has come loose and needs adjusting.
It's mounted through a threaded hole with an operating pin through the centre of the switch, adjust it by turning the switch body, remember to tighten the locknut after it's in the right place.
The switch is just below the hi/lo lever shown as 10 with 2 vertical pins for the wires.
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The throttle response it deliberately altered through the ECU when low-box is selected.
You need to press the pedal twice as far for a given rise in revs.
It's supposed to make it easier and smoother to control the power at low speed, it is possible to by-pass the switch though.
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Sounds like you need to try it in gear with the difflock off and take a look to see if either of the propshafts are spinning, try it with the handbrake on first though - you don't want to get run over by your own car - it's not very nice. ( don't ask me how I know
)Edit; beaten to it
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..... remembering that the headlights get mildly brighter with the hand brake on ...
That could be a bit of a give-away then, sounds like the engine to body earth is coming through the brake cable and any other vague connection it can find.
I remember having similar problems with a old Mini many years ago where the throttle & choke cables used to smoke on starting the engine
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Not necessarily a fault with the headlight earth wiring specifically.
It depends what year car it is, they are wired up differently depending on age/generation.
Some (most?) are wired with the main battery earth from battery to chassis and then linked to the engine block, but if it's wired from battery to engine and then to body, the starter will fire up OK but if the connection from engine to chassis/body is loose/dirty/corroded then you could get the symptoms described.
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Yes, NanoCom is a Land Rover specific diagnostic tool which can be used as stand-alone or in conjunction with a computer.
I've had mine for about 3 years now and never even noticed the "DEF ABS" screen
but here it is -
So maybe that's your solution.
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Just to add to the above, removing the cat / centre box does indeed significantly reduce the back-pressure, this increases the speed at which the turbo spins-up and applies boost so the throttle response in noticeably improved.
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I'm not sure about the Defender with ABS (not had one,) but I know that there was a routine on the VagCom software for the Audi A3 I used to have, there was a procedure for running the ABS modulator through it's paces as part of the brake bleeding routine, I suspect that there are places - cavities? within the modulator that need to be emptied of trapped air that can only be done by a diagnostics routine.
Of course, I could be speaking into my trousers here, maybe a grown-up will be along shortly.
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I had a Superchip tune on my old Td5 along with a straight-through centre section and no cat, it went like the clappers and sounded great
No problems at all with the turbo over a couple of years or so including some long trips down through France. (85 - 90 on the autoroutes 
)The turbo will only spin up fast enough to achieve the maximum boost pressure, once this is reached the wastegate opens to limit/regulate it so the turbo and engine is "protected" against overboost.
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There are four separate fuses, one for each light, (2 x dip + 2 x main,) so four separate wires from passenger compartment fusebox to the lights, not sure what route they take though.
Turquoise/Black for RH dip & Turquoise/Pink for LH dip, fuse 22 & 23 resp.
No problems at all with the turbo over a couple of years or so including some long trips down through France. (85 - 90 on the autoroutes 
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td5 starter problems
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
If there is a clunk and the lights dim, that sounds like the starter is working (after a fashion,) this suggests that possibly the starter pinion is jamming in the ring gear, either that or the battery is really low.
A pain I know, but if the battery is OK, it might be worth removing the starter again and make sure everything is OK inside, was it a new one or recon/secondhand?
I would say it's not a problem with the ECU, that would prevent any kind of operation of the starter if it was immobilised, no clicks or clunks at all.